MY NEW BABY BEARDIE WONT EAT BY HIMSELF!!

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Gormagon

Extreme Poster
Reduce the number down to 3 and see how it goes. The stress of a new world and, being force fed all at the same time will take time to get over, be patient with him.
 

TinyCreaturesRescue

Member
Original Poster
Alright, I'll try that. You think I can leave everything in there or should I take all his decorations out when I feed him? Or would that worsen his stress, I assume it would.
And is there anything I can do to help relieve his stress?
 

Gormagon

Extreme Poster
Yes, quit being stressed and, relax. Sounds like you are pretty stressed out too, lol! He'll come around just give him time. Don't take anything out and allow him to hunt, they love "the hunt"!
 

TinyCreaturesRescue

Member
Original Poster
You're right, I'm pretty stressed! My pets are my everything.
So I usually try to do anything and everything for them, right now I've got my rescue baby turtle who is super underweight and went through trauma at my neighborhood pond.. I found her when a couple of kids had caught her in a net and harassed her, I told them off real quick lol!
But anyhow I really appreciate you guys helping me out,
I will update in a few months to tell you guys how he is doing!
 

kjbolanos

Member
I'm sure this was all covered and reassured. I currently own a 3-4 month baby bearded dragon that I got perhaps more than a month ago. Even though I conducted a ton of research, I was very nervous to own a animal that I had no experience before. Thanks to my mother's friend who owned tons of beardies and the reptile shop person, I'm more informed and confident to raise my first Beardie. He's doing excellent.

To my experience with my beardie, he hardly ate the first week. Like really down to 10-15 crickets total during the week and sometimes he would even skip a day or two. But that is only because he's very stressed and trying to accustom his surroundings. Try not to take him out and handle them. I know it is tempting to show off to your family members and friends but to the beardie, even if you mean no harm, imagine yourself in the hands of godzillas and many more just staring at you. Just let him be, as long as he is eating a bit, he will be fine and will start eating more and more overtime. You won't need to force feed him at all.

Just carry on with the cleaning of his tank and he will become accustomed to you. If he does not eat for 3 or more days, that is when you might want to speak to your breeder, the shop person or expert right away and perhaps even take him to a vet for a check up.

Please make sure he is getting his UVA/UVB. I see that the Reptisun 10.0 is the best to use and I use it as well, works just fine. Make sure you get an appropriate basking light too.

Make sure he gets an appropriate night/day cycle. As long as the temperature is around 70F in your house at night, it is okay to turn off all your lights and no red warming bulb necessary. If you do use a red bulb, make sure you understand that beardies can see red light and may affect their sleep. Try to put him in a dark cave or log and if needed, cover the sleeping place with a dark cloth or towel.

Hope that helps. Don't panick!
 

mfaith31

Member
I'm just going to throw this out there...some might disagree but this is what worked for my dragons when they had issues adjusting to their new home. I like to handle my new ones once a day when they are new. If it seems stressful to them at all...instead of handling them I simply tuck them inside my shirt. It's dark, warm, and safe. So, they usually just fall asleep. I feel like they bond in the process, too. Just make sure they have something to hold onto otherwise they will hold onto you. lol. Yes, I mean and undershirt or *gasp* your bra strap. ;) I've only had one dragon I haven't had the time to do this with as much and he is my feisty one. Not mean, don't get me wrong. Just not as "mellow" as the rest. Somewhat spastic, actually. ;) I call him Peeper because he is so frantic and nosy and every time I turn around he is peeping through his glass at me. I will say this, if you try that and he flips out, try placing your hand gently and very still over the top of him so he/she feels secure. If he still flails about then definitely put him back. Usually, this always works for me but it might not for everyone. Also, it does keep them warm and toasty but it's not a replacement for their basking light so don't keep them in there all day...as tempting as it might be. Just for a little while. This is actually how I put all of my dragons to sleep at night before I tuck them into their beds...all five of them (no, not at the same time). :D Like I said, not all will agree but this is just been my experience.
 

TinyCreaturesRescue

Member
Original Poster
OMG PLEASE HELP!!!!

I did exactly what everyone said to do and more!
But I think Oscar has an effect from the force feeding!
His lower lip is coming outwards and his lip is curled slightly and BLEEDING! Not pouring but red. He is STILL not eating!
I put three crickets in there Sunday and he hasn't touched them, he used to be a decent chubbyness but now he's like a twig! I don't think he has grown very much since I got him either!
Should I take him to the local exotic animals vet!?!!!???
PLEASE HELP ME I DONT WANT HIM TO DIE!!!!
 

Taterbug

BD.org Addict
Have you gone to a vets yet? If not I strongly encourage it. It sounds like your setup and such needs a fair bit of adjustment... you've gotten some good recommendations here. I would also refrain from a lot of handling until he is eating regularly. Handing is stressful for them and he doesn't need more stress in his life right now.

Quickly reviewing your thread there are several concerning things:
1) he was not as active as his tank mates - it's possible he was already ill when you bought him.
2) you began force feeding after about two days? Force feeding is very stressful. If the force feeding has resulted in injuries he is going to want to eat even less. A vet may be able also to give you instruction for a safer way to assist feed.
3) improper lighting - do you have a UVB yet? (As a side note your turtle will also require a UVB if she doesn't have one) lighting is critical for health and appetite. Pet stores don't always have good lights so again he may be at disadvantage for hat as well.
4) vomiting and weight loss is not a good sign.
 

TinyCreaturesRescue

Member
Original Poster
He is doing better.

He started eating some baby superworms, a couple days ago, but he still isn't eating the amount that he should.
There is something that is really bothering me, he doesn't hold himself up with his legs and when he walks he kind of hobbles.. like he is limping on all of his legs. I first thought it was that he had MBD but none of the symptoms matched his condition.
Help?
 

JessPets

Gray-bearded Member
Stop the superwomrs. They can cause impaction, no matter how big the worms are. Try pinhead crickets, BSFL, silkworms, or dubia roaches
 

kjbolanos

Member
TinyCreaturesRescue":26nhvtlt said:
Ok, I'm ordering some pinheads from Josh's Frogs this weekend I think. But is there a better company or something? Also what is BSFL?

Just make sure that the crickets are no bigger than the space between your little guy's eyes. Too big can cause all kinds of trouble. And I would put a hold on dubia roaches, even the smallest ones. Even though those are very nutritious, filling and prevent parasites (crickets tend to carry parasites), they are quite big. Even for your baby, 1-2 is perhaps too much since 1 dubia can amount to 5-6 cricket serving. By the time you go through your supply of dubias, they will already be too large for your beardie to handle. Its a bit too early for dubias, is what I'm trying to say.

I get my crickets at the local reptile shop where I bought my first little guy. I continue to go there every few days to buy their bred crickets. Make sure your crickets get adequate heat otherwise there may loose quite a few crickets.
 
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