My first enclosure - so far so good?

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sbattisti

Juvie Member
OK, so, for Xmas we got the whole setup for our beardie-in-waiting. My son Mike and I are working to get everything organized and the temps right before we bring one home. Here's what it looks like so far:

terrarium_setup_1.jpg


The lamp on the left is a MegaRay 100w. I've just put the thermometer in there a few moments ago to see how the temperatures look. I also have a larger basking log that would get the basking spot closer to the lamp if necessary.

Questions:

1. I'm not sure how close I can get the MegaRay to the screen top without risking melting or something. Any ideas?

2. Since our beardie will be about 3 months old when we pick him up, the basking spot should be around 110, and the other side around 85, right?

3. Temps at my house at night are in the low 60s during the winter. Should I be able to go without heat overnight? (I have a Mega-Ray heat projector I could add to the mix if necessary. )

4. Does a tank take a while to warm up? Or should I expect to see pretty accurate readings right away?

Thanks guys!

Steve
 

spurlee01

BD.org Addict
Looks good!
1. Don't know :?
2. 110 is the highest, I would shoot for more like 105*
3. Some say that 65* is the lowest at night, other says 60*.
4. The tank will be warmest in the middle of the day typically, but fairly acurate readings will come in about 45 minutes.
 

sbattisti

Juvie Member
Original Poster
I'm not at all convinced yet. It's been about 15 minutes, and I'm getting like 68 on the "cool" side and 73 on the basking spot. :(
 
1 - you can look at this site, it gives good info
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/mercvapournarrowfloods.htm
2 - yes, those are pretty good temps, give or take 1-2 degrees
basking site - 110 - 115
warm side - 90 - 95
cool side - 80 - 85
3 - if the temperatures get that low, you might want to go with a ceramic heat emitter for the night, but dont have both the Mega Ray and the heat emitter on, because it might get too hot, but you can check yourself
4 - wait about 15 - 20 minutes to get accurate temperature readings

also, you might want to add a little more things in the cage, such as a branch for him to climb on - they like to climb, a hiding spot (on the cool side)
- have the hiding spot for two weeks, because they might have relocation stress
- but, if they are continuously hiding, then take it out and make him get used to you, and when he is comfortable in his tank, then you can add it



- the light wont burn the metal, so try and place it on the screen directly
 

spurlee01

BD.org Addict
On the basking temp, you'll want to move the probe so it's right under the light. It looks like its a bit to the side to me.
 

Potts

Member
1) It would be good for your beardie to be able to get within 5-7 inches of there UVB light for calcium synthesis and It will take longer for your tank to heat up but as long as you can the temps you need this shouldn't matter to much. If you do need to move your lamp closer and your lid can't stand the heat you can do a little DIY and replace part/all of the lid with metal mesh. Is your viv designed for beardies? Because if it is it should be build to stand the head from having a lamp placed on the lid.

2) That already answered.

3) 60 is the lowest you want to viv to go at night so you will need additional heating just make sure it doesn't emit any light at all as beardies need darkness to sleep at night, the best way to go is CHE (Ceramic heat emitter) or you can use a heat mat as a radiator on the side of your tank but only do this if its your only option a CHE would be much better and safer. Ovoid hot rocks like the plague they are very bad.

4) 45 mins ish for me but with your lamp being far away you can expect it to take longer for the air and other objects in your viv to warm up giving you an accurate reading. I would strongly advice spending a day watching your temps and getting them spot and then the following day the keeping an eye on them to be sure that everything right before you get your beardie.

Also if you can add a store bought log or branch for your beardie to climb on so he can get closer to his UVB.

Good luck with your beardie Steve! Remember to post pics! :D
 

spurlee01

BD.org Addict
On the MVBs (100 watt) beardies should not be able to get any closer than 12". On a normal UVB of course, you want them within 6-8 inches.
 

SlabOMeat

Hatchling Member
Question 1: I have the same tank. Initially I loved the design of the tank top, but then quickly realized Exo Terra designed it so that pretty much only their hoods and bulbs fit on it. It certainly is not designed with MVB in mind. Grrr. Plus the top framework is this soft bendy plastic which feels like it could melt in your hands.

My solution was to buy a new top, a black powder coated one with the heavy duty steel frame and mesh made by Zilla. It doesn't fit as nicely as the one it came with, but now I can have all my lights resting on it and not worry about melting anything. The lid is black and fits well enough that no one really notices unless I point it out. The new top cost me about $25 no biggy.

I got mine here...
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/screen-lids/-/zilla-50-gallon-tough-top-screen-cover/

-Phil
 

sbattisti

Juvie Member
Original Poster
SlabOMeat":de9ba said:
Question 1: I have the same tank. Initially I loved the design of the tank top, but then quickly realized Exo Terra designed it so that pretty much only their hoods and bulbs fit on it. It certainly is not designed with MVB in mind. Grrr. Plus the top framework is this soft bendy plastic which feels like it could melt in your hands.

My solution was to buy a new top, a black powder coated one with the heavy duty steel frame and mesh made by Zilla. It doesn't fit as nicely as the one it came with, but now I can have all my lights resting on it and not worry about melting anything. The lid is black and fits well enough that no one really notices unless I point it out. The new top cost me about $25 no biggy.

I got mine here...
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/screen-lids/-/zilla-50-gallon-tough-top-screen-cover/

-Phil

*grumble* Well, there's some good info I wish I'd had in advance. :) I agree, I'm worried about the top framework and its resistance to heat.

That Zilla one you bought is for 50-gallon. Did that fit on your PT-2613?

Steve
 

Loganator

Juvie Member
I also have a 100w MVB. I have the T-Rex, but that is very similar to the Megaray. I bet you will need that MVB closer to get the temps where you need them. I have a 40 gallon breeder and right now the MVB is at the minimum of 12'' to get my temps around 105 at the basking spot. Just remember, no closer than 12 inches for an MVB.
 

sbattisti

Juvie Member
Original Poster
Potts, that was a great post, thanks! I am doing precisely as you suggested, and trying to make sure we can get the temps right BEFORE we bring a beardie home!

After several hours, I checked the temps using the setup in my pic above, and assuming the thermometer is reasonably accurate, I'm only getting 71 in the "cool" side and 76 in the basking spot. Totally inadequate. So, I lowered the lamp by another inch and replaced the basking rock with a branch that would bring him several inches closer to the lamp. This would put him at 12" from the MegaRay, which is about the closest I can safely get him.

I'll leave this for a while and see what I get for temperatures, but I doubt lowering the lamp an inch is going to bring up the cool side temps by close to 10 degrees. I wonder if I should have gotten a stronger MegaRay...? :(

The heater I have is, I believe, not technically a CHE, but it's similar. It's this one. If I run this simultaneously, on the other side of the tank, I would guess I can bring up the overall temp of the enclosure significantly, but I'll wait to see what happens with my latest changes first.

Steve
 

Potts

Member
I have a 150W heat lamp on a much smaller tank but see how you go first. If your temps are to low on the cool side try move your lamp closer to the middle of your tank or partially cover the cool side of your tank to keep warmer air in but be sure to leave room for ventilation.
 

SlabOMeat

Hatchling Member
sbattisti":6d765 said:
*grumble* Well, there's some good info I wish I'd had in advance. :) I agree, I'm worried about the top framework and its resistance to heat.

That Zilla one you bought is for 50-gallon. Did that fit on your PT-2613?

Steve

I know! Me too! I was really pissed off about it when I started shopping for lights. I almost gave in and went with the Exo hood and lights, but after doing some reading, their stuff just couldn't do what I wanted to do.

I have the PT2614, but the only difference is the -14 is 24" tall and the -13 is 18 inches tall. It fits with about a quarter inch of play around all four sides...not perfect but totally usable, and you can use the entire top for lights.
 

sbattisti

Juvie Member
Original Poster
OK, hmm.

After making the latest modifications, I got it to 92/79. Still not quite where I need to be, and I can't move the MVB any closer. :(

I've just added a regular 60w (not mercury vapor) bulb to the other side. We'll see if that can raise the temperature of the entire tank a few degrees. If it doesn't get me where I need to be, does this mean I need a MVB with higher wattage?

Kind of disappointed, because I got a ZooMed ceramic fixture, and the one with the MegaRay isn't behaving reliably. The switch is loose or something, because sometimes it doesn't turn on when I flip the switch. Well, this is why I did all of this BEFORE getting the beardie!

Thanks again for your help.
 
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