My babies arent eating right help?

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Ok I just bought my two beardies last week and I read the care sheet on here and how much they should be fed. 1 is only 4 weeks old and he only eats maybe 15-20 crickets per day and they are very small. My other is about from what im told 4-5 months old and she eats the same if not less and nothing else at all. I dont know if its because their new or what but im kind of worried what should i do?

Thanks
John
P.S. both seem to be very active and poop enough.
 

zimbabwepegasus

Extreme Poster
It could just be adjusting....

but.. just in case, let's review some other stuff.

Where did you get them from (especially the older one)- I'm wondering what their previous care was like?
Are they housed together?
What are your temps (basking spot & cool side)?
What are you using to measure temps (digital therm with a probe, stick on/analog therm. or temp gun)?
What kind of UVB are you using (strip flourescent, coil/compact or MVB)?
What brand UVB are you using?
How old is your UVB light?
What size crickets are you offering?
Is the poop exceptionally smelly?
Is it runny?

Do you have any pics?
We do like pics?
And what are their names by the way?

- Kerry
 

Thor's Mom

Sub-Adult Member
Here is the original set up questions you were asked about in your “My First Bearded Dragon” thread about a week ago and the Response from ScooterBlenny:

mustang8402 wrote:How old is your dragon? How long have you had your dragon? .............1 Day
How long is your dragon? .........nose to tail 7 inches
What is the sex of your dragon? ............?
What size enclosure do you have your dragon in?.........10 gallon for now petco said that is enough for 2-3 years A 10 gallon might last you a couple of months, but it is really too small for even a baby. Mostly because it is nearly impossible to achieve the proper temperature variant in a tank that small. It's either all hot or all cold. It would be wise to get at LEAST a 40gallon breeder as soon as possible.
What type substrate do you have on the bottom of your tank?........Zilla desert blend crushed walnut shells Walnut shells really aren't good, especially for a baby. I would encourage you to consider tile or paper towels. Anything that can fit in their mouth is dangerous.
Do you use UVB lights?.........I have 1-100 watt sun-glo daylight buld and 1-100 red bulb for night. You would be better off ditching the red light, as any light can interefere with a beardie's sleep cycle. If temperatures in the cage don't get down below 65ish at night, then there's really no need for any kind of bulb at night. If the temps do get down that low, then consider a Ceramic Heat Emitter, which puts out heat but not light.
If so, Is it a coil, compact, fluorescent tube, or Mercury Vapor bulb?
What is the brand name and number of your bulb? Wattage (if MVB)?........ sun-glo 100 watt
How old is your UVB bulb? .......bulbs are new
How close can your dragon get to the UVB? .......... about 6 inches away from bulb
Do you use a separate basking bulb? What kind and what is the wattage?....... nope 1 bulb for day and 1 for night
What are the basking temps? .........92 Babies are better off around 110 on the hot side.
What is the cool side temp? .......83
Do you take the temps with a stick on thermometer, a digital thermometer with a wire and a probe end or a temp gun?...round stick on analog For about $12 at Wal-Mart you can get a digital probe thermometer, which is far more accurate.
Where exactly are you taking your basking temps?.....half way between top and bottom of cage. When you get a probe thermometer, you'll want to put it down near the basking area.
Do you use a heat rock or heat pad? ........neither Good job!
What do you feed your dragon? Please be specific. .......crickets,choped up apple and mealworms Mealworms aren't very good, and are especially dangerous for babies. Consider ordering Phoenix wormsHow often do you feed and what time do you feed (morning, afternoon, night)?....... i was told to put 3-4 crickets in tank until there gone Babies can easily eat 100 crickets per day. A good system is to keep feeding as many crickets as they can eat for 10 minutes, and do this 2-3 times a day.
Do you gutload (feed) your crickets, worms, etc?......Yes Good job again!
Do you use vitamin or calcium supplements? What brand(s)? How many days a week do you use each of them?....calcium dip crickets
Is your dragon having regular bowel movements (poops)? .......he has had 1
Do you bath your dragon? How often? .........not yes
Do you mist your dragon or offer water other than in the bath? ........he has a water dish Most beardies will not drink from a water dish, so this makes it very important to bathe them regularly
Does your dragon share an enclosure with another dragon?........no he is singleAwesome, keep it that way!

Followed by my response:
Hi again,

Ok, I agree with the tank size, temp gradient is nearly impossible in a 10 gallon. It is important to upgrade ASAP and I would recommend the 40 breeder as he will be set for life with that. I know a store in Livonia that sells really nice glass 40 breeders with front sliding doors (which make life much easier) for around $160. Let me know if you want the name of the store. If that is out of price range for you, I would suggest craigslist. You are looking for dimensions no smaller than 36 long x 18 wide x 18 tall.

I also agree on the walnut shell. It is very dangerous because beardies eat live pray and can be clumsy eaters. If walnut shell is ingested they can get impacted and it is sharp and will harm the intestines. Beardies have very small winding intestines so it is very important to keep particle subtraits from being ingested. Please stay away from calcisand too as it clumps in the digestive tract and also causes impaction. Better choices are paper towel, non-adhesive shelf liner or ceramic tiles. Washed children’s play sand can be used, but even that is only recommended for full grown adult beardies.

I agree on the red light. I made this mistake with my first dragon. They don’t need it and they need it to be dark so they can sleep well.

In addition, the sunglo bulb you mention is a basking bulb and only provides heat. Your dragon needs UVB (it mimics sunlight rays) as well. This is very important because it allows them to process their calcium and avoids problems with lethargy, refusing to eat and metabolic bone disease (MBD), which causes the bones become weak and unhealthy. For a UVB bulb, the safe choices are the Reptiglo 8.0 or the Reptisun 10.0 florescent tube. Never use a coil bulb (most of the pet stores sell them), as they can be very harmful to the eyes and cause serious problems. Here is what the Reptisun 10.0 looks like: http://www.petguys.com/-097612343480.html they come in different lengths depending on what size your fixture is.
I agree at 105-110 for the basking spot temp, but don’t make any changes until you get a better thermometer because the type of thermometer you are using will not give you an accurate temp. reading. The only thermometers that will give you an accurate reading are a digital probe (meant for the probe to be placed directly on the basking spot and then wait for 45 minutes), like this: http://www.worldlyshops.com/index.php?productID=33560
Or a temp gun (just point at basking spot and it will give you temp), like this:
http://www.bigappleherp.com/Big-Apple-D ... hermometer

I also agree with feed. Your baby should eat at least 25 crickets per feeding, but mine averaged around 50-75 twice a day. You can order in bulk online from a number of companies and it works out much cheaper. Mealworms are not great, I agree phoenix would be better. In addition your baby should be offered greens as well as fruits and veggies twice a day. Here is a great list of what you can/cannot feed and how often:
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.c ... ition.html

Give him a bath 2-3 times a week for about 15 minutes. It is great that you have him alone, well done on that and I strongly encourage you to keep it that way. Dragons should not be housed together. Some people do it, but they can snap and hurt or kill each other out of the blue and they generally stress each other out. Only one beardy per enclosure is a great rule to follow.

I know this seems like a lot, but it is a lot harder when you learn like I did and have a sick dragon on your hands because the pet store told you wrong. I would put a larger tank, digital thermometer and UVB at the very top of your list. Those are so very important. Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions at all or want us to elaborate on anything, please feel free to ask.


Did you get your BD a UVB light or make any of the suggested corrections? Also, you stated in your first thread that you have 1 BD, did you aquire another? are they housed together in the 10 gallon you have or are you keeping them seperatly?

****Disclaimer, don't take this the wrong way please. Just trying to get a handle on the situation so that people can give you the best advice possible. We want you to feel welcome here and there are a lot of people who will offer great advice for the health of your BD's*****
 

zimbabwepegasus

Extreme Poster
Okay.
Yeah.
Couldn't agree with Thor's mom more.

UVB is what enables beardies to absorb calcium- it's the equivalent of sunlight for people! It's crucial that beardies (most especially if you have one that's a bit on the small side) get quality UVB to develop strong bones!

As for the lack of eating. That could easily be temp & uvb related.

Temps are soooo important. Cold-blooded creature! It's body doesn't function without proper temps. Literally. The blood doesn't get moving and therefore can't digest, etc. You need a proper thermometer- analog/stick ons are notoriously inaccurate and you need to bump your temps. Hot spot should be 100-110- PLEASE do not attempt to adjust your temps without proper thermometers. Temps that are too high can result in brain damage.
 
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