Lighting & Slate... Questions not answered.

[mitternachtvogel]

I've read, and read, and read. I still have quite a few questions that nothing seems to have been answered. I'm a very thorough person, and a worry wart, so... everything WILL be covered and perfect and intact before I bring my beardie home.


LIGHTING ON 55 GALLON: I do not understand this at all. At ALL. No one has yet to explain it clearly to me.

Could someone just TELL me what lights they would use in the viv? Instead of 'suggesting' different kinds.
(I plan on using the MegaRay brand if that narrows anything down?)
Links to the exact bulb would be especially helpful...




SLATE FLOORING/TILING:

I'm getting the slate cut tomorrow at Lowe's.


Do I need to worry about it chipping, and my beardie eating it???

Do I NEED to adhere it to the bottom of the tank?

Should I worry about crevices between the tiles?

 

[Buggsy]

Ok, so lighting is really difficult, as it all depends on the room of the tank, temps of the room and time of year etc.It is the only part of the set up we cannot tell you for definate, its trial and error im afraid to get the temps right.

Ok, so if you are using the MBV bulb you will not need a UVB tube, but you will have to get the right temps. Now i dont use these bulbs, but i think it has to be 12" away from the basking dpot, hopefully someone can fill you in on that. I do know that some people have to add a smaller wattage bulb next to it to bump up the temp sometimes.

If you wanted to go with seperest heat and UVB, you need a tube, either a reptiSUN 10, or an arcadis 12% UBV if you can get it. The tube would need to go the lenght of the tank, and at one end you put a normal household bulb, again the wattage and type is a trial and error thing ( i have a kitchen cupboard full of different wattages and types that i have used at some point in the year!)

The only thing i can suggest is buying the bulb and trying it out, you can always return if it you cant get it to work.

Here is a link i found for the mega ray
http://reptileuv.com/megaray-products.php

ANd the reptiSUN should you want it:
http://petmountain.com/product/reptile-fluorescent-bulbs/504983/zoo-med-reptisun-10.0-uvb-bulb.html

As for tiles, slate really dosnt chip that much unless you really bash it, so i wouldnt worry about that. Some people chose to seal or grout the tiles down, which does stop feeder squriming down the cracks. If youwant to do this, make sure its a water based non toxic sealant, or grout.
I personally dont seal them in as it is very handy to take a dirty one out and bleach it etc, it give a more thurough clean than a quick wipe would, but thats just me!

I woudlnt worry about the cracks either, make them as small as poss, and watch for worms etc trying to wiggle between them.

Hope this helps

Buggsy

 

[Buggsy]

Oh i forgot to add that if the temp of the room drops below about 65 at night, you will want a ceramic heat emmitter. This is a seperate bulb (place it either above where they sleep, or if they dont sleep in the same place every night, in the middle of the cage) that produces heat but no light so as not to disturb your babies sleep pattern. I have linked mine up to a thermostat, but again it is all down to that particular room etc.

 

[gulfbrzdawn]

The reason most people do not give you "exact lighting" advice for your setup is due to the fact that there are so many variables involved. The size of your enclosure being one. Most people do not use the 55 gallon because it is only 13" wide, not leaving much turn around room for a beardie once they have reached that length. Your home temps play a big part also, as Buggsy mentioned. Most members here give advice on what they have experienced with raising bearded dragons, so if they have not used that particular set up then they can only offer suggestions. I have used a 55 gal before, but never with a MVB. The MVB's put off alot more heat than a regular basking bulb or flood light. I can suggest you using the 100W Megaray in a 55 gal, but that is only a suggestion. Just make sure that there is a 12" minimum distance between the MVB and your beardie. You may have to experiment with the bulb as to the distance depending on the temps you get. Make sure you use either a digital thermometer with a long wire and probe end or an infrared temperature gun.

I hope this helps! Good Luck!

Dawn

 

[BadCon]

My female resides in a 65 gallon enclosure (48"x16"x16")....which isn't much different from a 55 gallon. For lighting I have the following:

1. 100 Watt SB Mega-Ray in a ceramic fixture (roughly 18" from the floor of the viv, and about 13" from the basking spot to achieve a 105-110 temp at basking spot, 95 on the floor)
2. 48" (4 foot) long flourescent fixture with a 5000K daylight bulb (T12 size)
3. 5500k Daylight flourescent coil bulb for additional light over basking spot (14 watt size)
4. 60 watt incandescent regular bulb at the opposite end of the tank for a non UVB basking spot thats slightly cooler, at 100 degrees F (going to change this for halogen very soon)

Pictures!

From the right we have the Mega Ray, followed by the Flourescent Coil, then at the far left we have the incandescent. The long black thing at the back is the 4' flourescent tube. My lighting is a bit more than most, but proper light intensity makes for happy dragons. The makers of the Mega Ray bulb recommend a UVB basking spot, and a none UVB basking spot...and from watching my lizard, I tend to agree. Now I need to modify my males cage for two basking spots!

About the slate:

As you can see above, I use 6" slate tiles for most of the cage. They are tight fitting, so I did not adhere them with grout or silicon. I like them loose, as when one gets dirty I simply remove and clean it....all the while I replaced a fresh tile in its place. This way, I don't have to get in and scrub the tank everyday....I just remove the soiled tiles and clean them. Its less impact on the animal this way. As you see above, I put a towel on half the viv as my female likes soft things...and her back nails were getting a little worn down, almost to the toe.

 

[BeardieUK92]

As you see above, I put a towel on half the viv as my female likes soft things...and her back nails were getting a little worn down, almost to the toe.

do you not have problems with ur beardie pooping on the towel or do you just wash it if this happens?

 

[mitternachtvogel]

The woman I'm getting her from lets her poop in her cage...
She uses mulch, and have never given her a bath.

 

[BadCon]

As you see above, I put a towel on half the viv as my female likes soft things...and her back nails were getting a little worn down, almost to the toe.

do you not have problems with ur beardie pooping on the towel or do you just wash it if this happens?

I have several towels, all the same size. When she poops on one, I simply toss it in the laundry (hot wash), and put a fresh towel down. She poops every day or so, so I have I think 8 towels (hand towels, roughly 16"x24"), so there is always a fresh one ready. The towels I got from target, for about $2 each.

 

[BadCon]

The woman I'm getting her from lets her poop in her cage...
She uses mulch, and have never given her a bath.

That's sad. I wouldn't want to handle a dragon that dirty. Its really people like that who cause all the reptile salmonella ruckus.

 

[mitternachtvogel]

The woman I'm getting her from lets her poop in her cage...
She uses mulch, and have never given her a bath.

That's sad. I wouldn't want to handle a dragon that dirty. Its really people like that who cause all the reptile salmonella ruckus.

I'm gonna take her to vet as soon as I get her. :c

Can you get rid of salmonella in a reptile? Or at least like.. ; keep it down, and less infectious?

 

[neecie]

I, along with others, have beardies who poop in their bath. So, I put him in it almost every day and as soon as he does it, I pick him up and cuddle in a towel and back in the viv. The other days I put down 2 paper towels in the same location he always "goes".......and when he does, I fold them up and dispose. Simple. Easy and Neat.

 

[BadCon]

Can you get rid of salmonella in a reptile? Or at least like.. ; keep it down, and less infectious?

Salmonella is typically always present in the gut of birds and reptiles, like E-Coli is usually present in humans. It only becomes an issue when you have a sick reptile, and the salmonella multiplies due to a compromised immune system. Additionally, reptiles kept in dirty conditions will be constantly stepping on their own feces, and even consuming it....this will increase the risk of infection for the reptile and the human owner.

Simply keep your reptiles home clean, and wash your hands after handling, and you won't have an issue. If your reptile gets sick, pay extra care to make sure his cage is clean, and that your hands are clean before and after handling him.
I recommend you spot clean all "soil" daily, and clean the entire cage, including furniture, once a week. Depending on what type of items you use in your beardies cage, they can be boiled or baked in an oven to sanitize. If it’s plastic, a disinfectant soak will do wonders. I personally use chlorhexidine as its inexpensive, reptile safe, and very effective for most types of bacteria and viruses - https://sec02.simplot.com/wsistore/ac/stores/1/Chlorhexidine_Solution_br_by_D_P67C30.cfm
2 ounces make 1 gallon of disinfectant solution, so a gallon jug of chlorhexidine will last a long time. I always make a fresh batch whenever I use it, as once mixed it expires within a week with tap water (6 weeks with distilled).

Lots of people use a 10% bleach solution. However it has to be rinsed very well

 

[Buggsy]

Your set up looks really nice, but if you are using an MBV bulb, you really shouldnt have any other UVB in there. Too much can be just as harmfull as not enough! lol

5500k Daylight flourescent coil bulb - is this a UVB bulb as well, or a normal house hold bulb? I only ask as you should steer clear from any coil or compact UVB, and as i said before, with a MBV you really dont need any more.
A normal incandecent bulb from a hardware store will do if you are trying to get the temps up a little.

If you have two basking spots, i would worry the proper temp gradient would not be acheived, What are the temps on a cool part? And would they chose to bask in the spot with UVB after digestion, or chose to bask anywhere??
Bugsy

 

[BadCon]

Only one UVB bulb, and that is the mega-ray. The other flourescents are purely for light intensity (household daylight bulbs), and are not UVB producing.

The cage is long enough that having two basking spots still leaves the center of the cage nice and cool (measured with IR temp gun). I find that my dragon changes spots throughout the day. In the morning, you can find her under the MVB mainly, but later in the day she tends to use the non-UVB basking spot. When she wants to cool down, she will typically hang out under that large center bridge you see, and the temps in there are typically around 78 degrees.

You are correct though, if the proper temperature gradient cannot be achieved, then only one basking spot should be used. Its always important to gather proper temperature data before doing any lighting changes.

 

[Buggsy]

Ah well you learn something new everyday!