Just started hiding

[Alexlcrea]

So I've had my dragon for about 2 weeks now. Been really taken care of food to eat regularly, worms twice a week for proton though i just read he should have more. Looks to be about 3-4 months old. But tonight when my wife turned out the lights to his tank he scurried around and squeezed between his log and tank to sleep... I'm new to this dragon scene so I'm just wondering if i need to change something up here. Friday he's getting a bigger tank. Right now he's in a 10 gal. Temp stays around 80-85 during the day and 70-72 during the night.

 

[PuffSMom1]

My dragon is about 2.5 months old and I make sure to keep the temperature at least 95 but generally it's 100-105 degrees as I read that babies need to be much warmer than full grown beardies. I also have mine in a 10 gallon (I'm getting a 45 gallon any day now) and Puff likes to sleep in between his water dish and the glass most nights. Sometimes he falls asleep standing upright on two legs and I usually move him so he's on his tummy. I just kind of assumed this was normal behavior but if it isn't I'd also like to know how I can help him.

 

[kingofnobbys]

So I've had my dragon for about 2 weeks now. Been really taken care of food to eat regularly, worms twice a week for proton though i just read he should have more. Looks to be about 3-4 months old. But tonight when my wife turned out the lights to his tank he scurried around and squeezed between his log and tank to sleep... I'm new to this dragon scene so I'm just wondering if i need to change something up here. Friday he's getting a bigger tank. Right now he's in a 10 gal. Temp stays around 80-85 during the day and 70-72 during the night.

Obvious issues :
Viv size = 10 gals , this is extremely small even for a little hatchling.
I recommend at least a viv or converted tub/tote about 100L volume ( my rearing tubs are ALLSET 109L CLEAR STORAGE TUBs + LIDs (740mmL x 535mmW x 440mmH) ).
If you are short of money and can't afford even a secondhand viv that's AT LEAST 2x LONGER & 2x WIDER, then a tub/tote conversion is a cheaper option and will do him until he is nearly full grown (18mnths - 2yrs old). See viewtopic.php?f=34&t=233480


Diet = worms twice a week for a 3-4 month old is totally inadequate , a 3-4 month old HATCHLING requires LOTS of HIGH QUALITY LIVE insect (protein & fats & amino acids) , MINIMUM is TWO LIVE FEEDS PER DAY.

Every hatchling is different.

@ 2 months old Peppa was 24.6g and Toothless was 20.9g
(siblings fed exactly the same since we brought them home at 5 weeks old ( 13.8g and 11g on our first day ))
were eating 12 x 20day old (1/4 size ?) crickets for split into two meals
(I also had a bonding ritual with them where their first 3-4 crickets per day each were handfed , I'd then deposit the hatchling back in their rearing tub and I'd give them the rest of their insect a few at a time)
+ 4 x med/small (1.0 - 1.5 inch) silkworm (last meal)
+ greens & grated veg
+ softened mixed repcal juv beardie & vetafarm lizard pellets (last meal) EACH per day.

@ 4 months old
Peppa was 119.5g and Toothless was 91.1g
they were getting eating 24x medium (1/3 sized) crickets (split 16 in am & 8 in pm + 2x medium (1.5-2"long silkworms) + greens & grated veg + softened mixed repcal juv beardie & vetafarm lizard pellets (last meal) EACH per day.

So 12 crickets per meal is about what I'd be hoping for at 4 months old.


Based on your post , there are very likely many more problems with his viv and setup and husbandry that need to changed or tweeked if he is going to have as good a chance as possible to grow and develop properly and be happy & healthy. You were likely given very bad advise by the person who sold you the hatchling and who sold you the viv you have right now.

Need much more information and details on your beardie's setup and your husbandry otherwise we can't even hazard a guess.

Here's my Cheat Sheet :
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050

If you work through it methodically , the chances are there are likely a lot of issues that need to be tweeked or changed and they will pop right out at you, if you can give very detailed answers we will then be in a position to offer help. Is impossible to help you if you don't provide thorough details .

It may prove necessary to involve a reptile vet if your bearded dragon has serious health issues.Are you in a position to afford to take him to a good reptile vet should this prove necessary ?

 

[Alexlcrea]

He's got a good bill of health. And i really don't believe the person giving me advice on my dragon is telling me wrong. He's got 5 of em 2 at my age and they are just as healthy... i wasn't asking for food advice and he's getting a bigger tank on friday (today is Thursday). It was just a question about his random hiding... which could be to get cool and away from heat. 80-90 is prefect for him in my area because the temp fluxes so much it bounces. Also superworms plug the dragon up so 2 times a week is fine, maybe still pushing it. he still has veggies and a calcium powder. I thank you for the advice but the advice i was given wasn't bad or wrong. Also he is out of his tank for a good 1-2 hrs running around my couch... and he gets bathed 2x a week.. and if you tweek to much in the tank they get stressed because it changed... again thanks for your input and ill definitely use it along side others but line you said every dragon is different