The red light that was on is supposedly a "night light" for the dragon. It is a 75w Reprisal inferred uva lamp. And the basking light that wasn't on in the photos is a Zoo Med 75w Reptile Basking spot lamp.
The red light that was on is supposedly a "night light" for the dragon. It is a 75w Reprisal inferred uva lamp. And the basking light that wasn't on in the photos is a Zoo Med 75w Reptile Basking spot lamp.
The tank itself looks a bit narrow but will do for short term. I would stop using the visible red light. If the temps stay above about 65 or so in the tank overnight you don't need additional heat. Otherwise I would use a ceramic heat emitter which emits only infrared (no visible light which can disturb sleep).
The basking light is OK if it's producing enough heat. It's important to have accurate measurements and create a proper gradient. You want the basking site to be between about 100-105 with a gradient down to about 75-80 or so on the other side of the tank. I recommend using an IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for the basking site and one for the cool side surface) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/
The tank itself looks a bit narrow but will do for short term. I would stop using the visible red light. If the temps stay above about 65 or so in the tank overnight you don't need additional heat. Otherwise I would use a ceramic heat emitter which emits only infrared (no visible light which can disturb sleep).
The basking light is OK if it's producing enough heat. It's important to have accurate measurements and create a proper gradient. You want the basking site to be between about 100-105 with a gradient down to about 75-80 or so on the other side of the tank. I recommend using an IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for the basking site and one for the cool side surface) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/
Thank you so much for all the help. But I do have two digital thermometers on each side and I do have a uvb light on the right side of the tank. That long black strip is the uvb.
The tank itself looks a bit narrow but will do for short term. I would stop using the visible red light. If the temps stay above about 65 or so in the tank overnight you don't need additional heat. Otherwise I would use a ceramic heat emitter which emits only infrared (no visible light which can disturb sleep).
The basking light is OK if it's producing enough heat. It's important to have accurate measurements and create a proper gradient. You want the basking site to be between about 100-105 with a gradient down to about 75-80 or so on the other side of the tank. I recommend using an IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for the basking site and one for the cool side surface) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/
Are you talking about the round ones we can see stuck on either side of the enclosure? Those are dial thermometers, are can be off by as much as 20º! IR temps guns are cheap (less then $20 on Amazon), and allow you to see the temps easily anywhere in the tank
Thank you so much for all the help. But I do have two digital thermometers on each side and I do have a uvb light on the right side of the tank. That long black strip is the uvb.
The tank itself looks a bit narrow but will do for short term. I would stop using the visible red light. If the temps stay above about 65 or so in the tank overnight you don't need additional heat. Otherwise I would use a ceramic heat emitter which emits only infrared (no visible light which can disturb sleep).
The basking light is OK if it's producing enough heat. It's important to have accurate measurements and create a proper gradient. You want the basking site to be between about 100-105 with a gradient down to about 75-80 or so on the other side of the tank. I recommend using an IR temp gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK or a couple of digital thermometers with probes (one for the basking site and one for the cool side surface) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017N8W90/
Are you talking about the round ones we can see stuck on either side of the enclosure? Those are dial thermometers, are can be off by as much as 20º! IR temps guns are cheap (less then $20 on Amazon), and allow you to see the temps easily anywhere in the tank
Thank you so much for all the help. But I do have two digital thermometers on each side and I do have a uvb light on the right side of the tank. That long black strip is the uvb.
It is a 15 watt t8 bp desert 50. And I have another question how would I know if the light is bad? Will it just not turn on? My light turns on but i want to know if it's doing what it is supposed to.
Okay, so that DOES need to be replaced. You can either get the ReptiSun 10.0 t8 or t5. The t8 will fit into the fixture you already have, so you might want to go with that, although the t5 is better and lasts longer. The t5 only needs to be replaced once a year, while the t8 needs to be replaced every 6m. Even though the bulb still turns on and works, it looses its UV after those periods of time.
Those aren't really powerful enough for a tank that big. They are more suited to 20g tanks and smaller because their effective distance is only about 6'' or so (less through a mesh top). The T5 bulbs are much more effective at longer distances.
Generally speaking the UVB output decreases over time. A T8 tends to lose effectiveness after about 6 months of use and a mercury vapor bulb or a T5 should last over a year. They will still put out visible light so the only way to test for sure is to measure the output with a Solarmeter. A Solarmeter is also the best way to set the basking light to an appropriate height. They are fairly expensive so estimates are made based on previous readings from the bulbs at various distances.
Those aren't really powerful enough for a tank that big. They are more suited to 20g tanks and smaller because their effective distance is only about 6'' or so (less through a mesh top). The T5 bulbs are much more effective at longer distances.
Generally speaking the UVB output decreases over time. A T8 tends to lose effectiveness after about 6 months of use and a mercury vapor bulb or a T5 should last over a year. They will still put out visible light so the only way to test for sure is to measure the output with a Solarmeter. A Solarmeter is also the best way to set the basking light to an appropriate height. They are fairly expensive so estimates are made based on previous readings from the bulbs at various distances.
Those aren't really powerful enough for a tank that big. They are more suited to 20g tanks and smaller because their effective distance is only about 6'' or so (less through a mesh top). The T5 bulbs are much more effective at longer distances.
Generally speaking the UVB output decreases over time. A T8 tends to lose effectiveness after about 6 months of use and a mercury vapor bulb or a T5 should last over a year. They will still put out visible light so the only way to test for sure is to measure the output with a Solarmeter. A Solarmeter is also the best way to set the basking light to an appropriate height. They are fairly expensive so estimates are made based on previous readings from the bulbs at various distances.
You'll need a T5 22'' UVB tube. I suggest either a ReptiSun 10.0 or an Arcadia 12%. That will need a 24'' T5 fixture, usually a grow light fixture with a reflector. This is the one I use and it works very well. It comes as a combo with the bulb and fixture. http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/22-t-5-ho-fixture-high-output-with-arcadia-d3-12-ho-bulb/ It should sit about 12'' above the basking area for best results and should last well over a year before the bulb needs replacement.