Homemade Basking Loft

[Badmojomn]

Another thing to remember on grouting these. The grout seems to soak up more heat. So my first spot checks with the temps are reading a bit higher now after I put the finished product in the viv. I have had to move around the light a bit. After cutting the foam, temps were reading good. After one finished product was put in same spot, temps read 125. To hot.
So I keep the spot on there for a bit after.

 

[Suzan]

Im sorry about your egyptian one. It sucks when things you work so hard on just doesnt work out. I am going to start from scratch on a new one. I guess I need to change things alot. You have great advice. I only used 2 coats of non sanded grout, liq nails, grout color, but hay i gave it 1 day inbetween :lol:. I used 3/4 in foam from home depot. Cant wait to start a new one. I'm going to take your advice and try one. The back is glued with liq nails but only has 2 coats of non sand grout. The first layer of grout was VERY watery too, and the 2nd was very thick so I have to change that and add sand? Can I add the sand that came with my viv set or do I have to buy grout with sand?
Thank all of you for your advice its appreciated. I gotta lot to learn thanx for teaching me.

 

[vinnystefano]

I just finished my first structure for my tank, It took a little while for the grouting stage. I see a lot of posts about the cracking but I really never had an issue with it. What I did for mine was every night when I got home from work I mixed up a batch and coated the whole thing in a thin layer of grout. After about 5 thin coats I put on 2 thick coats, the last being sculpting time. The non sanded grout does not stick to the styro very well so with the thin coats it kinda adheres to itself. The first couple coats may have some cracks but the next coats covers it and fills in. Eventually after a few coats it really starts to become rock solid. I did mine in pieces which I think is what helped with the cracking also. When I first started it was one huge structure and was a real pain to get the hard to reach places covered. I broke it apart and re-grouted it and it helped a lot with not putting so much stress on one area. Here's what I ended up with:

 

[Badmojomn]

Suzan-I'm not sure about that. I know you can add sanded grout over non sanded if you wish or vs. I also have been mixing the 2 on some platforms since I don't care for the really sandy feel and I am sure the dragons would like it less abrasive. Who knows. Going by my thoughts here. They seem to be enjoying them as is anyhow. As long as you have plenty of coats on and it's structurally sturdy and sound, good to go.

 

[zackbeardieowner]

[Admin: Link removed]

 

[Suzan]

Vinny that is soooo awesome :notworthy: :notworthy: . I love the roundness of the rocks. Thank you for the help I'm ganna try, working slowly on a new one. Trying to make steps but not getting the steps the same size being a pain in the but but I'm not giving up. I'm still learning how to read a tape measure... line, numer, third line from number, etc. :lol: Thanks for advice I'm ganna take all of everone's help. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you,

 

[Suzan]

Zack what is that wire cutter? It is awesome and makes things so easy. I was using a chop saw and it worked good but I love the wire thing. It looks so easy to use (if dont hit fingers), and it's alot smaller.

 

[SeanFred]

It's called a hot knife, there are a couple styles available, you can get a hand held model from hobby lobby for 20.00. They make cutting foam very easy, but they get very hot.

 

[vinnystefano]

Thanks Suzan, you should really check out http://www.lizard-landscapes.com by far one of the most informative and helpful sites I have found.

 

[Suzan]

:wave: Good morn. all.Im ganna check out hobby lobby today I realy like that. I have used chop saw and works great but messsy. I saw on becky's site that she used a lighter. It looks really cool, have anyone used that? I first dont want a FIRE enenthough i married to a fireman. Also will the fumes hurt Zig when it's in the viv? You guys are great and have great places to go to. You give gooood advice. I knew peep on here would have great idea's and advice. Thank you sooo much. Looking forward to more. Do any of you have more pic's? I'de love to see your art work :notworthy: . Take care Suzan

 

[Suzan]

From my pics im not fond of the color. Do you know how to change it lighter? Is two layers of grout ok? The first was very thin like watery, the second very thick. would that be ok or what type of thin or thick if i need another one and is it ok to grout over the paint? I know toooo many ? sorry. Thanxs for all the help totally appreciated.

 

[Hak]

I made my first rockscape awhile back using self leveling underlayment mix for subfloors with absolutley no problems with cracking. The downfall with it is was that in order for it to adhere to foam, it had to be relatively soupy so it was nearly impossible to add sculpting details with. Mix it any thicker, and it was tough to acheive good results in sculpting realistic final details without flaking.
So, I decided to try the grout technique for a terrarium which would be a under much more humid conditions than that of a beardy habitat. unsanded grout seamed to have better sculpting attributes BUT, i had a problem with it cracking (even with fortifying additive) especially with humidity factors which are actually necessary for a proper cure in any cement based formulation.
I am now expirementing with a 2 part technique using both products. First using the self leveling underlayment which has sand, portland cement and polymer additive for added fortification which in combination, at least i beleive, reduce the chances of cracking. Not only that, but due to a couple of its attributes, it not only sticks to whatever you slap it on in its in soupy state, (integrated polymers) it also fills everything from pockets to gaps being a self leveling formula.
Next I will layer unsanded grout for its scultabilty and color modification options over the self leveling underlayment.
My theory is that the underlayment will provide a stable substrate to conteract the foam's expansion and adherance problems vs, grout to prevent cracking, and provide tooth for unsanded grout which provides scultability and ease of pigment modification.
It is my hope that the products in tandem will provide a more realistic, foolproof and uncrackable proceedure for humid or dry climate terreria and remain tintable or paintable.
I am currently working on a small scale project to rehab an old terrarium. I have just finshed with underlayment and waiting for polymer cure to apply fortified unsanded grout. If this works out, it will most likely work for desert style terreria as this project will be for a high humidity setup where cracking seems to be more of a problem. once I know it will hold up to humidity, I will test in a dry format to be sure it works both ways,
Hopefully the two products compliment eachother. I will be sure to post results whether it is a pass or fail and the curing process involved for each scenario. Might be a while though because the current setup I am expirementing with requires a proper cure more so than a desert or arid set up would. Either way, humid or arid, as a precautionist, I think a proper cure with any concrete based product should be achieved before putting any type of animal on it.
I realize that grout has worked for many, but I have also heard of many fails as far unsanded grout with its tenency to crack, I am merely looking for a solution to stand the test of time for terraria of various habitat parameters.

Happy Bearding.