The minimum is a 40g for beardies which is 36x18x18.
Well, beardies should have one hour in the heat before eating and be in the heat two hours after eating. If you have a baby, they need to be fed twice a day so that's 6 hours set aside for just eating. Then they need 8 hours of UVB so add two more hours to the 6 (since they'll be under the UVB while digesting). After that you can take them out however often you want, just don't let them get cold. Mine are usually fine for an hour as the house is pretty warm and they're on carpet - not tile or hard wood.
I don't believe that they are leash trainable. I know people put harnesses and leashes on them, but that's more of a safety precaution for when they take them outside so they don't risk losing them.
It depends on the children and how much work you put into the beardie getting them handled. For the first week or so, if the beardie is a baby, I would keep children away to keep the stress level down. So I might (if the cage was planned to be put in the open, cover all four walls of the cage to help keep out the view of commotion and too much excitement.
Here's a list of what you'll want to get:
- 1. 40g tank (if you buy a baby, you can put a cardboard partition up to make the viv smaller until they are older as sometimes a large viv can be too much for a baby, but by buying the size you'll need now, you won't have to buy a smaller one then a bigger one later)
2. Substrate: newspaper, reptile carpet, paper towels, tiles, laminate tiles (do not use sand or any other loose substrate (sand, walnut shells, bark, etc) as it can cause impaction and not all beardies survive impactions)
3. A basking bulb and fixture: I've found that flood lights from Home Depot paired up with a dimmer switch give you the best results for proper temps. Plus, flood lights have lasted longer and stronger than the expensive, but otherwise useless basking bulbs at the pet stores. A large dome fixture should work well with the flood light, just make sure you buy a wide dome.
4. UVB and fixture: You'll want a ReptiSun 10.0 UVB (24" long one should suffice) and a fixture for it which you can buy at Walmart (under the cabinet light fixture). You'll want to buy command hooks as well and hook it up into the the cage, under the top so that it's inside the cage. By putting a UVB on top, it filters our 50% of the UVB.
5. Temp Gun: You can find this at any pet store or hardware store. A temp probe works as well, just tape it down to the basking spot. If you have a baby, basking temps should be higher (105-108) and the cool side should be 85. As an adult they like lower temps of 95-105. Never let the basking spot get below 95 as 95 is the minimum to properly digest.
6. CHE: Ceramic heat emitters are used in the winter if your house gets below 65 at night. The produce no light, only heat. The red bulbs and black bulbs are no good at night as they still produce some light.
7. Decor: You can buy the stuff at a pet store or find your own. Branches and rocks that you find need to be baked in the over at 200 (I think) for 20 minutes to get rid of germs. Hopefully someone can comment and remind me if that is the correct temp or not. This way you can save a little cash. Hammocks are a favorite and they are what I use for basking spots. You don't need a water dish as it will only raise the humidity and cause RI, if you do want a water dish, however, you can pick up a small one.
8. Food: As a baby they should eat nothing larger than the space between their eyes. Dubia roaches are good so long as you don't live in Canada or Florida where they're illegal. Crickets aren't bad, but noisy and germy. Hornworms, butter worms, phoenix worms, and silkworms are good worms for babies. Superworms, once the beardie is 16" or longer, are good. As babies they eat 20% greens and 80% protein. Greens include dandelion, turnip greens, collards, and mustard (stay away from lettuce, spinach, kale). As they turn 1 year old it's 20% protein and 80% greens.
9. Baths: Baths should be warm water up to their shoulders 3-4 times a week at 15-20 minutes. This keeps them hydrated as most don't drink out of water dishes. Misting the cage is never a good idea as that raises humidity and can cause RI.
I feel like I might be forgetting something so hopefully someone can chime in. I know this is a lot of information, but I hope it helps.
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