It sounds like he is hooked on the unnutritious mealworms, that's not good. Is he over 16" long? If so, you could get some superworms, similar to mealworms but more meaty and nutritious. Have you tried those or silkwoms or hornworms, what about dubia roaches or crickets? Even though one day a beardie won't eat a particular feeder, it doesn't mean that he won't ever it as their tastes change. What greens/veggies do you feed him?
Where exactly do you get the 95 degree reading? The round gauge (dial) thermometers are very inacurate, can be at least 20 degrees off.
A temp of only 95 is the absolute minimum that a tank should be. Have to tried raising the basking SURFACE temp over 100 to see if it makes a difference in his appetite? Where does he spend most of his time when in his tank?
How many days a week are you dusting with calcium and vitamins, how many days do you use each one? Do you know the brands of the supplements?
The twitching sounds like the beginnings of metabolic bone disease. The compact bulb you're using only puts out UV rays in a very small area and declines very rapidly. How old is the
UVB bulb? It would be a good idea to purchase a Repti-Sun 10.0 fluorescent tube. Without a good
UVB light, your beardie's body isn't able to absorb the calcium sufficiently which is a concern.
Using a 120 watt during the day and a 125 watt night bulb isn't good because then the tank would be hotter at night than during the day. It's VERY important that they have a cool place to sleep. You would only need night heating if the tank temp drops to 60 to 65 degrees, if so, then a low wattage ceramic heat emitter would be best so that he can get restful sleep with it cooler and without the light bothering him as they can see colored bulbs.
Can you post some pictures of his setup? This link will guide you and then post the XIMG link here.
https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/