He just won't eat?

[valkener]

Hi everyone,
I bought a Bearded Dragon ("Rog") a week ago. I've been reading a lot on this board and my Terrarium is set up fine. I'm using ReptiSun 10.0, a 100 w Basking Lamp, but he won't eat properly. I'm quite sure he has relocation stress, but how long will this last? It's been a week. He is a juveline.

The first day, he ate 3 crickets. Then he didn't eat anything for two days, so the following day I hand-fed him some wax-worms. Yesterday, and today, he hasn't eaten anything. He used to go for the crickets (the first day), and at PetSmart, as far as I could see.

Otherwise, he doesn't seem very sick - he loves his basking spot, he even sleeps there, but does leave it once in a long while. But he doesn't touch the food. When I take him out and pet him, he is active (not lethargic), and a little scared.

What can I do to make him feel more comfortable? I put fresh greens in his tank every day. He just won't eat, and he hates to leave his basking spot (Temp's are good, 95 basking spot, 85 cool area).

 

[Embee]

Hi :wave:

Sorry Rog hasn't been eating well for you. He may still be experiencing a touch of relocation stress however, here are a few things you'll want to address that may help as well:

First and foremost, the ReptiSun 10.0, it is the linear TUBE (rather than compact or coil) yes? If so, how close is Rog able to get to the tube at basking (6-8 inches is optimum). If it happens to be a compact or coil, this could be a big part of the problem... coils and compacts are well known for causing health problems, not the least of which is poor appetite (which in turn, leads to a whole host of OTHER issues).

Also, the temps. With what and how are you going about gauging them? Are you using a device that allows you to take temps DIRECTLY under the heat lamp? If so, then your temps are looking low for basking and a bit high for cool side. You want a bit more range in your temp gradient. For a juvenile, you want to get as close to these temps as possible:

basking: 105-110
Ambient/Mid: 85-90
Cool side, 79-80

If you are NOT using a device that allows you to take exact basking temps (such as the unreliable stick on dial type thermos), then you are likely not getting accurate temps, in particular, you aren't able to asses what is going on for beardie directly on the basking spot which is key. I highly recommend either a digital with probe thermometer or a infrared temp gun for accurately measuring temps. WalMart and Lowe's carry the Acu-Rite digital with probe thermometer for about $11-12. Here is a link to a previous thread which has a picture of the thermometer (for your reference): viewtopic.php?f=45&t=98939&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15#p770019.
Aside from that, you want to make sure that the UVB tube and the basking light are aligned together at the basking end of the tank as follows:

____________tube
0 basking bulb

...so that beardie has benefit of both bulbs while basking for optimum calcium absorption and thorough digestion. Also, the bright white light of the basking bulb will guard beardie's eyes from the UVB rays. You are using a 100w basking bulb, yes? It is bright white? What is the SIZE of your tank?

The other thing I would avoid are wax worms. Some would call them the equivalent of beardie junk food; no real nutrition to speak of and can spoil beardie's appetite for more nutritious fare. If you're going to feed worms at this stage, I highly recommend phoenix worms http://www.phoenixworms.com. They are nutritious, full of natural calcium (great for growing youngins) and also have a good habit of stimulating overall appetite, along with of course, making sure that your husbandry is well in order.

Here is a link to an excellent food chart for feeding your beardie: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html.

The best,
Em

 

[valkener]

Thanks for your reply .
I have Acu-Rite, the UVB is a tube, and he his basking spot is 6 inches from the white light (bulb) hallogen by the same company that makes ReptiSun 10.9. So everything seems good. It's a 29 gallon tank for now. If I could upload pictures here, I would .

I guess it will take some more time for him.. I don't think he is used to touching and is scared by nature.. but I will keep on trying. He hates to leave his basking spot though. Do you have any recommendation of how I should feed him? Put him in a seperate box so he can easily grab the crickets? I can't really let the crickets run around in his tank because I have a cool rock constellation which they will immediately go under and stay..

 

[EmJagsz]

If it's your beardie has only been a week with you, don't worry too much about him eating or not. It's been over a month with my baby beardie and he still hasn't completely come around. He will only eat a dozen crickets a day, when he should be eating 30+ :shock: ...... Just be patient

 

[Embee]

Thanks for your reply .
I have Acu-Rite, the UVB is a tube, and he his basking spot is 6 inches from the white light (bulb) hallogen by the same company that makes ReptiSun 10.9. So everything seems good. It's a 29 gallon tank for now. If I could upload pictures here, I would .

Looks like you've got all your equipment in order. Are you leaving the Acu-Rite on the basking spot for 45 minutes then, before reading temp? If so, you will definitely need to get the basking temps UP (105-110). A juvenile needs basking temps higher than 95 to digest efficiently. If the temps are low, this slows digestion and subsequently, appetite.

I guess it will take some more time for him.. I don't think he is used to touching and is scared by nature.. but I will keep on trying. He hates to leave his basking spot though. Do you have any recommendation of how I should feed him? Put him in a seperate box so he can easily grab the crickets? I can't really let the crickets run around in his tank because I have a cool rock constellation which they will immediately go under and stay..

You can certainly try using a separate feeding enclosure. We have used this method and it can work really well for crickets; less obstruction (those little hiders!) and space to cover, hunting. Just make sure that there is something on the bottom of the feeding container so he can grip and get around easily. If you decide to try the phoenix worms, you can just clean them and leave them in a bowl in his enclosure. When dry, they can't get out of a bowl so it's an easy thing to feed in the enclosure itself (however, if they happen to get wet, they can make tracks fast!). :mrgreen:

Indeed, a little time, higher basking temps and you'll likely see a change in appetite. The only other thing I would mention is to make sure that he has adequate basking time (1 1/2 - 2 hours) after and BEFORE offering food. That he's basking well is a really good thing!! Juvies can certainly be more active and even a little skittish, so just keep trying with handling and getting him out. Before long, he'll be a big beardie, always looking for a way to snuggle up on you and take a nap! :wink:

The best, and good luck!

Em

 

[valkener]

Not sure how to get it even hotter. 100w 6 inches distance is pretty hot. especially the focal point is very hot - I make sure the focal point doesn't shine on the basking spot, I think he also watches out not to get there.. but thanks for the tips I will give him more time I guess.

 

[Embee]

Not sure how to get it even hotter. 100w 6 inches distance is pretty hot. especially the focal point is very hot - I make sure the focal point doesn't shine on the basking spot, I think he also watches out not to get there.. but thanks for the tips I will give him more time I guess.

So, it sounds as if the basking bulb is sitting at an angle then? Ideally, you'd have the focal point ON the basking spot, but at a greater distance. In addition to low basking temps, this is likely also the reason the cool side is too warm, as there is more heat than is needed being directed toward that side of the tank. Just a guess, not actually having a visual of your tank, it's hard to say for sure. The temps in the tank are as important as the equipment itself, as it relates strongly to overall husbandry. The lowest possible temperature that a beardie needs to digest is 95 degrees and for a adult, a basking temp of 95 can be sufficient (up to 100). Young beardies however need greater temps to efficiently and thoroughly digest the large amount of feeders they consume (up to 50-100 a day). IOW, it pays to arrange the tank in a way in which you are achieving the proper temp gradient (see my first post). It may take some trial and error and in smaller tanks, it can be extra challenging for whatever reason (proper temps in our starter tank were a constant frustration, the 40 breeder was a breeze). We found that using an adjustable stand for the basking bulb was enormously helpful.

Oh, I wanted to mention as to veggies: Just keep offering. It usually comes in time. Young beardies are hard-wired to grow fast, and because of this, many tend to focus entirely on larger amounts of protein at the first. It's much more a concern if a young beardie is not consuming live feeders. And while relocation stress can certainly play a part, possibly up to two weeks, husbandry is usually the bigger culprit when it comes to low appetite.

Best of luck!

Em

 

[valkener]

Hey Em,
I measured the temps again and the basking spot is def. hot enough. It's 110 degree's. At night, it's 63-65 degree's in here.

This is the 4th consecutive day that he hasn't eaten anything. And only 2 waxworms + 2 crickets the entire week. We tried raspberries, blueberries, babyfood, waxworms, circkets.. we offer him food several times daily. He barely ever leaves his basking spot.. and doesn't like to be pet / bathed. We are very gentle and loving with him but he just doesn't want to warm up. I am a little concerned now with him not eating for such a long time.

The good thing is that we started bathing him almost daily at which he always drinks so he does get fluids.