youheartsme":7fad2 said:
I'm not exactly sure how big he is but I would estimate just under 12" from head to tail.
Ok, so size wise, doing ok. A little on the small side, but not overly so.
The temperature 100-105 F is the area under the heating lamp. He uses the temperature gauges from petco so he does have a "digital probe".
Great. When he places the probe under the lamp, make sure he's leaving it for a full
45 minutes before reading temp.
Do you happen to know the wattage of the basking bulb?
As for giving him baths he gives him frequent baths at least once a week plus misting him about once or twice daily and he actually gave him 2 baths today.
So at least once per week usually then? Let him know that 2 would be minimum on a regular basis (3 -4 even better). It sounds like he's doing more than usual today, which is a good idea. If it's impaction or dehydration, the baths can really help.
Has he had a chance to feel the right side beardie's belly?
He hasn't have any LIVE crickets for about a month but they are calcium gut loaded before hand and he sprays them with a vitamin spray.
Is there a specific reason he stopped offering live feeders? Going with the timing, I'd say there is a very good chance that the change in diet could certainly be playing a part here. Indeed, freeze dried are gutloaded and calcium fortified, but as I mentioned, they don't offer the
caliber of nutrition or water that a live feeder does, think about the difference between the freeze dried food we eat sometimes (say, like the kind we'd take on a hike--just add water :wink: ), or a freshly made salad, and piece of fresh lean protein, a nice glass of water. The operative word in freeze dried, is "dried." Not matter how you try to amend that, it's impossible for them to be any more than that, dried. Young dragons need live feeders and lots of them, for proper growth and nutrition.
And for UVB he uses a tube, I believe is ReptiSun 10.0
If it's a ReptiSun, then great. If you'd like to check the bulb itself, JUST to be sure, that would be good. The only reason I mention it is there is another bulb, with similar name (Repti
GLO) which has been causing problems for some beardies, so it's good to know for sure.
How OLD is the tube, do you happen to know? If it's getting on 5 months or so, it's time to think about replacing it. For the ReptiSun, make sure beardie can get to within 6-8 inches at basking area and have him align the two bulbs as follows (if they aren't already this way, of course
):
__________tube
0 basking bulb
... so that beardie has benefit of both bulbs while basking for optimum UVB rays for calcium processing/D3 synthesis, and so that the bright white light of the basking bulb can guard beardie's eyes while basking.
and besides not pooping normally regularly he hasn't been acting any differently, he has been basking, active and eating but he does look bloated. Thanks for your help.
It's good that he's active, but definitely keep an eye. Beardies in the early stage of a "discomfort" will often try to hide the ailment (as they would in the wild as not to appear vulnerable to predators). If they get to a place of lethargy, it's usually because the ailment has gone into a rather advanced stage. The bloated appearance is a concern, as impaction can cause that. Let me know what you find there, if anything. If yes, than have him continue the baths WITH massage, until beardie is able to pass whatever it is that is impacting him. During that time, best to offer the applesauce/olive oil mixture only, as you don't want to cause further discomfort by offering too much food. If it's not an impaction issue, than it sounds like a feeder/
hydration issue. I would then still continue the frequent baths, switch back to live gut-loaded feeders, and of course, offer fresh greens/veggies/fruit every day. Dust 5 meals per week with calcium WITH D3, 1 - 2 meals with multi-vites.
In the meantime, in any case, if he hasn't done so already, I would have him dump the sand and even if it's just temporary, plop in some paper towel. If this does happen to be an impaction issue, than we don't want beardie near anything that could make things worse.
Lastly, I would recommend upgrading to a larger enclosure as soon as it's possible. A 12 inch beardie in a 20 gallon is starting to push things. A 40 gallon would be the minimum size for an adult beardie, but many go bigger. We were able to find a 40 breeder on Craigslist, by just checking everyday for about 3 weeks, and then VOILA. Might try that, if he's looking to save some money. (We had to clean the thing within an inch of it's life mind you, but for $40, it was worth the extra work.)
Let me know about any impaction you might feel, and feel free to throw out any more questions. Happy to help!
The best,
Em