Stygma
Member
Well I was thinking since there are a lot of people with LOTS of questions on how to properly set up a bearded dragon enclosure, maybe some of the more experienced members could post here and get a compendium of knowledge going for those who are less well-informed. I know things are different for every dragon, but even a baseline for new owners to go off of would be helpful. Information such as lighting, heating, and general decor could greatly help any new owners who look to this site for information.
I'm no expert, but I guess I'll start. I'll edit the first post as more people (hopefully) post!
First and foremost, one must pick an enclosure that is suitable for the dragon's size. Hatchlings may be kept in a smaller tank; somewhere along the lines of 20 Gallons, but they'll mature quickly. An adult requires a minimum of about a 50 to 55 Gallon vivarium to live comfortably but the bigger, the better!
The enclosure should be simple in design and easy to clean; there's no need for anything fancy here.
The substrate is an important part of any cage design. While the subject is hotly debated among enthusiasts, some common substrates include paper towel, non-adhesive shelf liner, floor tiles, play-sand, reptile carpet, alfalfa meal, crushed English walnut shells, and newspaper.
While all of these substrates have their ups-and-downs, the safest substrate to use, especially with a new beardie is just plain old paper towel. Please note that Calci-sand, or any other calcium-based substrate is dangerous to your dragon and could potentially cause fatal impaction. I'll leave it at that, since I'm sure some of the older members will have a lot to say on the subject.
Next comes landscaping. You want to create an environment that is both attractive, and functional for your pet. While Bearded Dragons mostly dwell on the ground, they're skilled climbers, and will enjoy a variety of branches and rocks to scale and bask on. Be sure that anything your dragon climbs on is secure and capable of holding its weight. Dragons will also need a place to hide. Make sure you provide a safe spot that the dragon can take shelter in. While you can use fake plants to 'spice up' the environment a bit, remember that your dragon will probably end up either climbing, or trying to eat the foe-greens, so keep them to a minimum. If you do provide real foliage for your pet, insure that it is non-toxic, and capable of sustaining decent growth in an enclosed environment. One website cites plants like Dracaena, Ficus benjamina, and hibiscus as good additions to a beardie habitat. Make sure the plants haven't been treated with pesticides or other chemical agents that could harm your dragon, and take care to keep them clean and watered.
Temperature is an absolute essential when it comes to owning a reptile. Without proper heat, they can't digest their food and make get sick or worse. Heat can come from many sources, but for the most part, you'll have a "Basking Light" for them. The basking light should be placed at one end of the enclosure to provide a temperature spectrum for your pet. The bulb should provide temperatures between 90 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Other sources of heat may include a heating element that screws into a regular socket or a substrate heater. Never use heat rocks with bearded dragons, as they can't feel heat well through their belly-area and may get burned. Remember to get a good thermometer with a probe to properly check temperatures.
Next comes UVB. Ultra-violet light helps your pet metabolize calcium, and without it they may fall victim to Metabolic Bone Disease; a dangerous, and unfortunately common ailment. Usually, you'll find that a strip-light is the best solution. These tubular bulbs extend the length of the vivarium and provide optimal levels of UVB for your reptile. The alternate solution is to use a "Mercury Vapor Bulb"; a bulb that provides both UVB and heat. As I'm no lighting expert, I'll leave this to be expanded by other members.
Hydration is an important part of owning any animal. As you may or may not know, most reptiles do not drink from standing water. While you may think you're doing them good by providing a water dish, they usually won't drink from it, and will often foul it with feces and substrate. It's best just to fore go the water dish all together. If you DO provide a dish, ensure it is shallow, and has a high lip to minimize the chance of debris getting in the water. More likely than not, you'll find that your dragon will use the dish to cool down as opposed to drinking from it. Beardies get most of their moisture through their food, or through absorption of moisture through their vent during baths.
Lastly is hygiene. Your tank will get dirty; it's inevitable. Be prepared to spot-clean small messes, but don't be surprised if you have to clean the entire tank. If using a loose substrate, a sieve is ideal for cleaning up feces. When using hard substrate like tile or shelf liner, you can wipe it clean with a damp cloth. Try to keep the use of cleaning agents to a minimum as they can harm the dragon. When it comes time to change your substrate, you'll have to thoroughly clean the enclosure. Once everything has been removed, it's best to use a 5% diluted bleach solution to wipe down the insides of the tank. Take extra care to clean the corners and grout of the enclosure. Finally, rinse it very, very well, and then rinse it again! You don't want to leave anything behind! Allow it to dry in the open air, and them place your fresh substrate and decorations back in. Make sure to clean all decorations before putting them back in. Even new decorations can carry mites and other unsavory things into your dragon's habitat.
I hope this has been a help to those new owners looking to Bearded Dragon.org for help, and I hope that the more experienced owners will show some support, as I think this could be a great idea. Believe me, I would have loved to find something like this when I was new to the whole thing!
Sources: The Internet, other members, and my own experience!
I'm no expert, but I guess I'll start. I'll edit the first post as more people (hopefully) post!
First and foremost, one must pick an enclosure that is suitable for the dragon's size. Hatchlings may be kept in a smaller tank; somewhere along the lines of 20 Gallons, but they'll mature quickly. An adult requires a minimum of about a 50 to 55 Gallon vivarium to live comfortably but the bigger, the better!
The enclosure should be simple in design and easy to clean; there's no need for anything fancy here.
The substrate is an important part of any cage design. While the subject is hotly debated among enthusiasts, some common substrates include paper towel, non-adhesive shelf liner, floor tiles, play-sand, reptile carpet, alfalfa meal, crushed English walnut shells, and newspaper.
While all of these substrates have their ups-and-downs, the safest substrate to use, especially with a new beardie is just plain old paper towel. Please note that Calci-sand, or any other calcium-based substrate is dangerous to your dragon and could potentially cause fatal impaction. I'll leave it at that, since I'm sure some of the older members will have a lot to say on the subject.
Next comes landscaping. You want to create an environment that is both attractive, and functional for your pet. While Bearded Dragons mostly dwell on the ground, they're skilled climbers, and will enjoy a variety of branches and rocks to scale and bask on. Be sure that anything your dragon climbs on is secure and capable of holding its weight. Dragons will also need a place to hide. Make sure you provide a safe spot that the dragon can take shelter in. While you can use fake plants to 'spice up' the environment a bit, remember that your dragon will probably end up either climbing, or trying to eat the foe-greens, so keep them to a minimum. If you do provide real foliage for your pet, insure that it is non-toxic, and capable of sustaining decent growth in an enclosed environment. One website cites plants like Dracaena, Ficus benjamina, and hibiscus as good additions to a beardie habitat. Make sure the plants haven't been treated with pesticides or other chemical agents that could harm your dragon, and take care to keep them clean and watered.
Temperature is an absolute essential when it comes to owning a reptile. Without proper heat, they can't digest their food and make get sick or worse. Heat can come from many sources, but for the most part, you'll have a "Basking Light" for them. The basking light should be placed at one end of the enclosure to provide a temperature spectrum for your pet. The bulb should provide temperatures between 90 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Other sources of heat may include a heating element that screws into a regular socket or a substrate heater. Never use heat rocks with bearded dragons, as they can't feel heat well through their belly-area and may get burned. Remember to get a good thermometer with a probe to properly check temperatures.
Next comes UVB. Ultra-violet light helps your pet metabolize calcium, and without it they may fall victim to Metabolic Bone Disease; a dangerous, and unfortunately common ailment. Usually, you'll find that a strip-light is the best solution. These tubular bulbs extend the length of the vivarium and provide optimal levels of UVB for your reptile. The alternate solution is to use a "Mercury Vapor Bulb"; a bulb that provides both UVB and heat. As I'm no lighting expert, I'll leave this to be expanded by other members.
Hydration is an important part of owning any animal. As you may or may not know, most reptiles do not drink from standing water. While you may think you're doing them good by providing a water dish, they usually won't drink from it, and will often foul it with feces and substrate. It's best just to fore go the water dish all together. If you DO provide a dish, ensure it is shallow, and has a high lip to minimize the chance of debris getting in the water. More likely than not, you'll find that your dragon will use the dish to cool down as opposed to drinking from it. Beardies get most of their moisture through their food, or through absorption of moisture through their vent during baths.
Lastly is hygiene. Your tank will get dirty; it's inevitable. Be prepared to spot-clean small messes, but don't be surprised if you have to clean the entire tank. If using a loose substrate, a sieve is ideal for cleaning up feces. When using hard substrate like tile or shelf liner, you can wipe it clean with a damp cloth. Try to keep the use of cleaning agents to a minimum as they can harm the dragon. When it comes time to change your substrate, you'll have to thoroughly clean the enclosure. Once everything has been removed, it's best to use a 5% diluted bleach solution to wipe down the insides of the tank. Take extra care to clean the corners and grout of the enclosure. Finally, rinse it very, very well, and then rinse it again! You don't want to leave anything behind! Allow it to dry in the open air, and them place your fresh substrate and decorations back in. Make sure to clean all decorations before putting them back in. Even new decorations can carry mites and other unsavory things into your dragon's habitat.
I hope this has been a help to those new owners looking to Bearded Dragon.org for help, and I hope that the more experienced owners will show some support, as I think this could be a great idea. Believe me, I would have loved to find something like this when I was new to the whole thing!
Sources: The Internet, other members, and my own experience!
