Doesn't move, not eating, won't open eyes

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jfreeman

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Original Poster
He had a HUGE poop (larger than normal) right before he "shut down." he hasn't eaten since. The reptile store guys checked him out and are certain he isnt impacted. Thankfully!
Has been eating crickets & worms for almost 2 years without a problem, but I plan to use them only as treats and, as the reptile guy suggested, "force" the greens.
Will see what vet says. Hopefully can get in Monday!
 

munchkins9802

Gray-bearded Member
most pet stores will say mealworms are fine but really silkworms and phoenix worms (online ordering) are best. How long has it been since he pooped? They can suddenly have issues even if fine eating those worms the last 2 yrs

BEst of luck maybe just a hunger strike right now for you
 

blue11

Sub-Adult Member
oh wow, im so sorry that this is happening....have things cleared up? is he better? keep us updated, let us know what the vet said if you were able to get him there...i know all of us worry about sick little sweeties!!!
much luck!
take care and let us know :)
Em
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Did you ever get a different UVB light yet? I honestly think that will make a huge difference for him.
How is he doing now?
Has he been eating anything lately?


Tracie
 

jfreeman

Member
Original Poster
Thanks you guys for keeping up with me!
The report: unimpressed with everything except the dried crust on his eyes. Weight seemed good, his skin looked fine, and doesn't think it is respiratory in nature. Advised to use antibiotic ointment on his eyes, continue soaking him every couple of days - once a week, and leave lights off. Gut impression is that he IS brumating and leaving lights off for at least 2 weeks and then turning them on the schedule again may "tell" my bearded that winter is over. MY overall impression is that there is a lot of guessing going on and nothing definitive? My only reassurance is that Jazz (my bearded) is not losing weight (even though is not eating anything yet) and doesn't seem to be declining. The guessing game/watch-and-wait is unnerving! I bought some kale and have that near his water dish. Untouched so far, but will keep it up!
Since I've not been using lights, I haven't replaced the UV bulb yet, Tracie. Can you tell me the specific you use and recommend? Again, getting a lot of different answers from "the spiral ones are fine," to more specifics. Vet, reptile store, on-line and the Bearded Dragon reference book I have all say different things. I am to turn his lights back on starting Monday.
I'll keep you posted.
 

MissT

BD.org Addict
Turn all of his lights off???

The recommended UV is the reptiSUN 10.0 linear tube. Reptile stores and books have a lot of outdated information. And vets have enough to remember without going into lighting issues - my vet would argue that reptiGLO tubes are fine - but I have experienced, first hand, the ill effects that those bulbs have!
 

greathouseFarm

Juvie Member
The Reptisun 10.0 tube not coil is the only one that has really passed all the test ;) Unfortunately Vets and Pet Stores lump reptiles into one big category and give them all the same advice. And bearded dragons are fairly new as pets so the books are always outdated by new research. You can feed superworms, they are a different worm than mealworms although they look very much the same they are meatier and the skin is thinner and easier for your dragon to digest. You can also gut load them and get a good calcium that sticks to them. They are more affordable than Reptiworms/Phoenix worms but I would try to form a nice varied diet. Also things like Cilantro and Parsley mixed into some mustard or turnip greens can entice them to eat. Collards and Kale are a bit waxier tougher leaf and I find that they wont eat them as readily as the thinner ones. Dandilion, Swiss chard. Only oddball out is Spinach is a no no.
 

greathouseFarm

Juvie Member
PS the best calcium out there is made by beardeddragon.co it's awesome! It sticks to everything and is made from 4 sources of pharmecutical grade calcium! I love it.
 

jfreeman

Member
Original Poster
Yeah. They told me to turn all lights off for at least two weeks (sad could be months?!?!) if he is in fact brumating. This would give him a sense of brumating then cue him to come out of it when lights come back on. At this point, I'll try anything.
I will go get the tube tomorrow, as well as something besides the usual mealworms.
THANK YOU for all the helpful and supportive advice!
 

greathouseFarm

Juvie Member
I'm concerned about that approach. Tracie what do you think? If it was my dragon I would try and keep him awake even if it is trying to brumate. Try to deal with the eye thing and clear him of any parasites before letting him go to sleep. Did they even do a fecal test?
 

diamc

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hi. I just noticed that your 1st post mentioned that your 2 yr old is only 10" from his nose to tip of his tail? If so, that is an extremely short length.

Were you able to get a digital probe thermometer or temp gun? If not, I would recommend getting one of those before you even consider turning his lights off because if the temps are inaccurate, that will indeed cause lethargy and lack of appetite.

I also think it would be a good idea to get the Repti-Sun 10.0 fluorescent bulb, go back to dusting with calcium 2 to 3 days a wk and vitamins 1 day a wk. Also, rather than feeding kale, there are greens that would be better for him and not bind the calcium as the kale does. So, would suggest you try dandelion, turnip, mustard greens, escarole or endive along with a little parsley or cilantro as greathouseFarm mentioned.

I also agree with him about being concerned about turning the lights off for that long. I would recommend making the changes in your setup and feeding (as well as supplements) as mentioned above. Adults can actually have 50 small feeders like crickets a wk and still need that protein especially since yours is so small. I would be very worried encouraging brumation at this point.

I'm wondering too, did the vet check a fecal for parasites?
 

jfreeman

Member
Original Poster
You guys are awesome! Thanks for great advice. It's so confusing trying to figure it all out w conflicting information.
Fecal test negative. The only reason suggested lights off is because there's no other concrete explanation. An otherwise healthy & active bearded all of a sudden stops everything, checks out fine, isnt losing weight. Said that if it were an ailment of any sort, yes, he would stop most activity but would also be losing weight. That is why brumation was a favorable explanation. Lights off to give him time "down" then lights back on to wake up. I have met a couple of other bearded owners along the way who said theirs do this, one for 6 months? Then all of a sudden wake and are active again.
I have the temperature probe - digital, right? And the new UV bulb so I'm set with those.
Thanks, too, for advice on kale vs other. Have tons of those greens so will switch em out.
Thanks!
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

How is your dragon doing?
I agree, most of the times, it is brumation with the described behavior. However, your lighting has been off for quite awhile which could be one of the issues causing his lethargic behavior. He is very small for his age. Was a blood test done on him? I think it is a possibility of him having low calcium, as well.
I would not put him into brumation until you have exhausted the other options just to make sure that he is healthy when & if he goes down for brumation. So, for now, I would keep his lights on right now, to make sure that he is doing better & not ill. They hide illness extremely well so you don't know that they are ill until it is too late, many times.

Tracie
 
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