Critique my ownership skills?

[Kates]

Hello! I just got my first bearded dragon this past Saturday and his name is Kantus. He is about 5 1/2 inches long and I feed him maybe 6 crickets, three times a day (around 18 crickets a day). His enclosure is a 20 gallon reptile tank with newspaper for substrate, a basking rock, a large/shallow water bowl, and a heated rock. For lighting, I have a Zoo Med Combo Deep Dome Dual Lamp Fixture with day and night bulbs.

I keep his crickets in a 10 gallon tank with fresh vegetables, damp paper towels, and empty paper towel rolls.

When I get payed, I know I need to buy:
a digital thermometer
dust for his crickets
a nicer substrate


1) What substrate do you recommend?
2) Is my beardie supposed to drink water regularly?
3) What is an exact amount of crickets I should be feeding him daily?
4) Is my lighting good enough for him?
5) He runs from me when I try and pick him up. Is that normal for babies?

 

[Linziehonn]

1) What substrate do you recommend?
Newspaper is fine for a substrate but you can also use tile, papertowels, and reptile carpet

2) Is my beardie supposed to drink water regularly?
Most beardies do not drink from a dish. Their biggest water source comes from the greens/veggies they're fed everyday and from their baths. He should be getting a luke warm soak for about 10-20 minutes 2-3 times a week. You can do more when he's shedding. I have one that gets a bath every single morning because this is where he goes potty.

3) What is an exact amount of crickets I should be feeding him daily?
He should be fed as many as he can eat in a 10 minute time frame 2-3 times per day. These always need to be dusted. Calcium should be one feeding per day 5x per week, multi-vitamins should be 1 feeding per day 2x per week for babies/juvies. Crickets cannot be bigger than the space between the beardies eyes.

4) Is my lighting good enough for him?
They require a bright, white basking light for their heat source and a UVB light. That heat rock needs to go, they cannot sense heat from below and will get burned. You can keep it, just unplug it. The basking temp for babies/juvies should be 105-115, most like it closer to 105-110, you will need a thermometer w/ a probe to get this temp exact. Temperatures are one of the MOST important things in keeping beardies. They do not require night heat unless the temps in your house drop below 65, and then you will have to provide a non lit heat source like a CHE. They cannot sleep with any sort of lighting at night.
I didn't see that you listed a UVB source. This is an absolute must! This can be obtained from the Reptisun 10.0 tube, Mercury Vapor bulbs, or the Arcadia 12%. These are all good options.

5) He runs from me when I try and pick him up. Is that normal for babies?
Yes this is normal for new babies, they do take a little time to trust you. I would suggest picking him up for a few minutes at a time, petting him and talking to him, then put him back. You can also reach into his enclosure and just pet him ever so often. I talk to mine a LOT to help get them use to me. You've got to show him that you're not going to hurt him, that you're safe.

 

[Kates]

2) Is my beardie supposed to drink water regularly?
Most beardies do not drink from a dish. Their biggest water source comes from the greens/veggies they're fed everyday and from their baths. He should be getting a luke warm soak for about 10-20 minutes 2-3 times a week. You can do more when he's shedding. I have one that gets a bath every single morning because this is where he goes potty.
-
I read it make it easier for them to go when they are in water. That's why Kantus uses his water dish as a toilet instead of a bath.


4) Is my lighting good enough for him?
They require a bright, white basking light for their heat source and a UVB light. That heat rock needs to go, they cannot sense heat from below and will get burned. You can keep it, just unplug it. The basking temp for babies/juvies should be 105-115, most like it closer to 105-110, you will need a thermometer w/ a probe to get this temp exact. Temperatures are one of the MOST important things in keeping beardies. They do not require night heat unless the temps in your house drop below 65, and then you will have to provide a non lit heat source like a CHE. They cannot sleep with any sort of lighting at night.
I didn't see that you listed a UVB source. This is an absolute must! This can be obtained from the Reptisun 10.0 tube, Mercury Vapor bulbs, or the Arcadia 12%. These are all good options.
-
The day bulb is a Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamps and the website says that it has UVA rays. Is there a difference between UVA and UVB?
Also, this video (http://www.ehow.com/video_4439104_bearded-dragon-night-day-light.html) said that red heat lights are great as a night light because it doesn't disturb the bearded dragons sleep.

5) He runs from me when I try and pick him up. Is that normal for babies?
Yes this is normal for new babies, they do take a little time to trust you. I would suggest picking him up for a few minutes at a time, petting him and talking to him, then put him back. You can also reach into his enclosure and just pet him ever so often. I talk to mine a LOT to help get them use to me. You've got to show him that you're not going to hurt him, that you're safe.
-
Thanks for the tips.

 

[XtinaBeardieMom]

Hi there! It's great that you're willing to look into how to improve in caring for your beardie... there are definitely some improvements to be made - you've come to the perfect place for great information! Linziehonn has already done a great job giving you some good info. The biggest issues you need to take care of ASAP are your lighting set-up and your feeding situation. The only two recommended UVB light sources are the Reptisun 10.0 linear fluorescent tube or the Arcadia 12%. YES, the brand/type really DOES matter. The UVB bulb needs to be at least 2/3 the length of your dragon's tank and mounted inside the tank (not on top of a screen lid) so that your dragon can get within 6-8" of the UVB light from his basking spot. Night lights are definitely not recommended, as beardies need 100% dark to get adequate rest. You only need a source of night heat if the ambient temperature of the room your beardie is in falls below 65 degrees Farenheit. If it does actually get that cold inside your house, then you can use a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) for night heat. Also, get that heated rock out of there ASAP - they are known to have the potential to seriously burn your beardie. As far as your feeding regiment, there is no "exact" amount of crickets to use. However, your beardie should definitely be eating more than you're giving him now. First of all, make sure the crickets you're using are no bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Your baby should be getting as many crickets as he will eat with three 10-minute feedings (or two 15-minute feedings) per day... that should end up being anywhere from 50 to 100 total crickets per day, WAY more than 18. He should also be offered fresh greens and veggies every day like Mustard Greens, Collard Greens, Turnip Greens, Butternut Squash, Acorn Squash, etc. You can find a great beardie nutrition guide here >>> http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html Your beardie will start to eat less live food and more salads as he gets older. By 18-months-old your beardie should be eating mostly greens plus 25-50 live feeders per week. Usually there would be a significant decrease in live food intake around 12-months-old.

Other than the lighting and the feeding, your set-up and plan sounds just fine. Great job!

 

[Kates]

Hi there! It's great that you're willing to look into how to improve in caring for your beardie... there are definitely some improvements to be made - you've come to the perfect place for great information! Linziehonn has already done a great job giving you some good info. The biggest issues you need to take care of ASAP are your lighting set-up and your feeding situation. The only two recommended UVB light sources are the Reptisun 10.0 linear fluorescent tube or the Arcadia 12%. YES, the brand/type really DOES matter. The UVB bulb needs to be at least 2/3 the length of your dragon's tank and mounted inside the tank (not on top of a screen lid) so that your dragon can get within 6-8" of the UVB light from his basking spot. Night lights are definitely not recommended, as beardies need 100% dark to get adequate rest. You only need a source of night heat if the ambient temperature of the room your beardie is in falls below 65 degrees Farenheit. If it does actually get that cold inside your house, then you can use a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) for night heat. Also, get that heated rock out of there ASAP - they are known to have the potential to seriously burn your beardie. As far as your feeding regiment, there is no "exact" amount of crickets to use. However, your beardie should definitely be eating more than you're giving him now. First of all, make sure the crickets you're using are no bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Your baby should be getting as many crickets as he will eat with three 10-minute feedings (or two 15-minute feedings) per day... that should end up being anywhere from 50 to 100 total crickets per day, WAY more than 18. He should also be offered fresh greens and veggies every day like Mustard Greens, Collard Greens, Turnip Greens, Butternut Squash, Acorn Squash, etc. You can find a great beardie nutrition guide here >>> http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html Your beardie will start to eat less live food and more salads as he gets older. By 18-months-old your beardie should be eating mostly greens plus 25-50 live feeders per week. Usually there would be a significant decrease in live food intake around 12-months-old.

Other than the lighting and the feeding, your set-up and plan sounds just fine. Great job!

I heard there should be an 80% live to 20% greens ratio for feeding babies. I always chop up mustard greens for him but he only ever eats one or two bites from it. 50-100 crickets a day sounds like an awful lot for a baby. I can see why bearded dragon owners REALLY hate pet stores. They seem to under feed their beardies and put sand in their enclosures. ;~;

I'll defiantly look into the Reptisun light ASAP and I took out the heated rock right after I read the first post. I've read a book on beardies, watched many videos and a few different websites and it seems that this site is the only one that is really consistent with bearded dragon information.

 

[Linziehonn]

Haha yeah, they do seem to prefer to go in water, all but one of mine do! The good warm soaks really do aid in shedding though. The 80/20%'s are correct on greens and feeders but babies usually take a little while to get going with the greens and veggies. My 3 month old eats more and more every week but only started with a few bites a day. Just keep putting it in there and one day you'll come home a near, if not completely, emply bowl! :wink:

-The day bulb is a Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamps and the website says that it has UVA rays. Is there a difference between UVA and UVB?

Yes there is a difference between the two and they really need both. The exposure of reptiles to UVA provides known physical and psychological benefits. It is possible that UVB also provides psychological benefits; but most importantly reptiles use UVB light to create exactly the required amount of vitamin D3. D3 is what allows the absorption of calcium. Failure to provide adequate D3 results in metabolic bone disorder.

-Also, this video (http://www.ehow.com/video_4439104_beard ... light.html) said that red heat lights are great as a night light because it doesn't disturb the bearded dragons sleep.

Red reptile lights do not disturb crested gecko's, I have seen this for sure, but they definitely disturb beardies. I was once thought they needed to be on as well and my first beardie had one, I never understood why he wasn't sleeping at night until I found this forum.

Your little one is so lucky to have someone that cares enough to do their research and correct the things that they were told wrong on. You're right, there is a LOT of bad information out there, I'm glad you found this forum! I hope you two have MANY great years together!!

 

[bunnyrut]

I heard there should be an 80% live to 20% greens ratio for feeding babies. I always chop up mustard greens for him but he only ever eats one or two bites from it. 50-100 crickets a day sounds like an awful lot for a baby. I can see why bearded dragon owners REALLY hate pet stores. They seem to under feed their beardies and put sand in their enclosures. ;~;

I'll defiantly look into the Reptisun light ASAP and I took out the heated rock right after I read the first post. I've read a book on beardies, watched many videos and a few different websites and it seems that this site is the only one that is really consistent with bearded dragon information.

that ratio is correct, but not all beardies follow it

keep offering the veggies, if your beardie gets hungry he will eat it.
they eat more greens as they get older.

it seems like a lot of crickets, but they digest them pretty quick. they need a minimum of 2 hours basking time to digest, which is why the temps and lights are important.

if the newspaper is something lying around keep using it for now. in the future i recommend tile. it's easier to clean, more sanitary, and you don't have to waste money throwing out paper towels every time you clean the viv.

i agree with the info on this site. i read so many posts about people who say the info here saved their beardie's lives!
there are people here who have raised beardies for years, and have been through rough times with them and now have the knowledge to pass on to help others.

there is a big difference between people who own bearded dragons and people for raise and care for bearded dragons.

 

[Kates]

I would much rather hear what I'm doing wrong and fix it then continue caring for my beardie incorrectly and potentially hurting him.

It just blows my mind how many people are misinformed about bearded dragons and their needs.
The book I read on beardies recommended calci-sand and said it's fully digestible yet everywhere else I have read said that it causes impaction. :study: Or how pet stores use calci-sand as well. They also seem to underfeed their baby bearded dragons.

I feel that subscription to this site should be mandatory to all bearded dragon owners and to those who think they might want a bearded dragon.

 

[Kates]

Oh! I also had another question!

I have a duel fixture and was wondering if I took the night light out and put in a UVB bolb and ran the UVA and UVB at the same time, if that would be too hot for Kantus.

Or would you recommend me just getting the Reptisun light fixture and do away with the light I have?

 

[JenFid]

Oh! I also had another question!

I have a duel fixture and was wondering if I took the night light out and put in a UVB bolb and ran the UVA and UVB at the same time, if that would be too hot for Kantus.

Or would you recommend me just getting the Reptisun light fixture and do away with the light I have?

The one problem with that is the coil UVB lights are notoriously bad for your beardie's eyes. I totally did the same thing with my first baby for the first couple weeks, I had the dual fixture with the basking bulb in one and coil UVB on the other. You want to get the long reptisun tube, you can get fixtures for them fairly cheap at walmarts or hardware stores. Either way get rid of the night light though like the others said

So it sounds like right now you don't have a UVB, correct? Until you get one, find a box or something similar that he can't get out of and take him outside for some natural sunlight, about 30-40 minutes a day should be fine - weather permitting of course!

 

[Kates]

Oh! I also had another question!

I have a duel fixture and was wondering if I took the night light out and put in a UVB bolb and ran the UVA and UVB at the same time, if that would be too hot for Kantus.

Or would you recommend me just getting the Reptisun light fixture and do away with the light I have?

The one problem with that is the coil UVB lights are notoriously bad for your beardie's eyes. I totally did the same thing with my first baby for the first couple weeks, I had the dual fixture with the basking bulb in one and coil UVB on the other. You want to get the long reptisun tube, you can get fixtures for them fairly cheap at walmarts or hardware stores. Either way get rid of the night light though like the others said

So it sounds like right now you don't have a UVB, correct? Until you get one, find a box or something similar that he can't get out of and take him outside for some natural sunlight, about 30-40 minutes a day should be fine - weather permitting of course!

Thanks for the heads up on the coil UVB bulb. I assume the long bulbs emit heat. Would the walmart fixtures have to be heat resistant?
And great idea with the natural sunlight. I'll for sure be getting him a UVB bulb first thing Saturday morning.

Also, could I still use the red bulb with the UVA bulb to keep him nice and warm (just as long as it doesn't get too hot and I turn it off at night?)


You guys are so awesome. ^-^ I've gotten some really amazing advice and I'm sure Kantus appreciates it just as much as I do.

 

[JenFid]

The florescent lights actually don't produce much heat. Sure it will be a little toasty if you touch it but it doesn't go much beyond that.

You mean using the red light during the day? I don't see why not if you're using it with the other basking bulb - I would wait until you get that probe thermometer to see what kind of temps that puts out though, depending on what the wattage is on the other one that might be a little overkill with the heat. In a 20 gallon tank I think a 75w bulb would be adequate to keep the temps in the 100+ range you need.

edit - and yes we're happy to help! We love nothing more than people wanting to do right by their beardies :mrgreen:

 

[Kates]

The florescent lights actually don't produce much heat. Sure it will be a little toasty if you touch it but it doesn't go much beyond that.

You mean using the red light during the day? I don't see why not if you're using it with the other basking bulb - I would wait until you get that probe thermometer to see what kind of temps that puts out though, depending on what the wattage is on the other one that might be a little overkill with the heat. In a 20 gallon tank I think a 75w bulb would be adequate to keep the temps in the 100+ range you need.

edit - and yes we're happy to help! We love nothing more than people wanting to do right by their beardies :mrgreen:

I plan on getting my thermometer tomorrow. I freak out every time I see Kantus with his mouth open. I'm always afraid he's venting. But then he kind of... Yawns? I'm not sure if beardies do that. o.o

What's your take on waving? I read it's
a) unknown why they do it
b) females waving to male beardies
c) a sign of respect or sort of saying "you are alright with me"
d) just a greeting

Do males do it too?
I also read females can get black beards too. Or is that just a male thing?

 

[JenFid]

I plan on getting my thermometer tomorrow. I freak out every time I see Kantus with his mouth open. I'm always afraid he's venting. But then he kind of... Yawns? I'm not sure if beardies do that. o.o

What's your take on waving? I read it's
a) unknown why they do it
b) females waving to male beardies
c) a sign of respect or sort of saying "you are alright with me"
d) just a greeting

Do males do it too?
I also read females can get black beards too. Or is that just a male thing?

If he's venting I wouldn't worry too much, it just means he's regulating his temperature. If he gets too hot he will move out of it. Mine yawn occasionally too, it's part of their morning stretch routine. All three of them puff their beards out a few times, flatten themselves, shake their heads and yawn! Sometimes they will puff air into their eyes too and make them look like frogs, kind of creepy looking!

I personally feel that waving is a mix between b and c. When I first got Sarth and he was just a teeny baby, he would wave at me sometimes, which I figure was kind of a "Please I don't hurt me I submit" kind of thing. My newest girl who is 5 months also did this a bunch to my older female whenever she saw her, but doesn't anymore now that she's bigger.
*Both* my girls will wave at my male in response to his head bobbing and stomping - that I think is definitely a submission thing. My male does not wave anymore, I haven't seen him do it since he was a baby.

Yes, girls black beard too. I haven't seen my youngest get a full black beard yet, but my other older girl did it nearly every day this spring when it was breeding season. As soon as she caught any kind of glimpse of Sartharion, she would start head bobbing and her beard would go jet black while she scrabbled furiously to get out of her cage In fact here is a video of it - female is the one in the tank, male is the one on the floor looking innocent

 

[Kates]

I plan on getting my thermometer tomorrow. I freak out every time I see Kantus with his mouth open. I'm always afraid he's venting. But then he kind of... Yawns? I'm not sure if beardies do that. o.o

What's your take on waving? I read it's
a) unknown why they do it
b) females waving to male beardies
c) a sign of respect or sort of saying "you are alright with me"
d) just a greeting

Do males do it too?
I also read females can get black beards too. Or is that just a male thing?

If he's venting I wouldn't worry too much, it just means he's regulating his temperature. If he gets too hot he will move out of it. Mine yawn occasionally too, it's part of their morning stretch routine. All three of them puff their beards out a few times, flatten themselves, shake their heads and yawn! Sometimes they will puff air into their eyes too and make them look like frogs, kind of creepy looking!

I personally feel that waving is a mix between b and c. When I first got Sarth and he was just a teeny baby, he would wave at me sometimes, which I figure was kind of a "Please I don't hurt me I submit" kind of thing. My newest girl who is 5 months also did this a bunch to my older female whenever she saw her, but doesn't anymore now that she's bigger.
*Both* my girls will wave at my male in response to his head bobbing and stomping - that I think is definitely a submission thing. My male does not wave anymore, I haven't seen him do it since he was a baby.

Yes, girls black beard too. I haven't seen my youngest get a full black beard yet, but my other older girl did it nearly every day this spring when it was breeding season. As soon as she caught any kind of glimpse of Sartharion, she would start head bobbing and her beard would go jet black while she scrabbled furiously to get out of her cage In fact here is a video of it - female is the one in the tank, male is the one on the floor looking innocent

XD That's just great!! Kantus hasn't waved yet or bobbed his head.
I didn't know if it was a submission type thing or "Hey sweet thang~ Lookin' for a good time?"
I was hoping that females didn't get black beards so I wouldn't know when it was mating season for my innocent little girl. Oh nature~
Poor bearded dragons. Nobody can tell their gender until they are older so we are forced to assume. My mom calls Kantus a girl and I call him a boy. XD

And I haven't witnessed any puffy frog eyes either. I'm glad to know Kantus isn't the only yawning bearded dragon.