Just this morning I brought home a 6 inch baby bearded dragon from a reptile show. I'm not sure if she just REALLY loves to be held, but once you hold her, she seems to relax immediately, and will just lay with you with one eye closed, sometimes both. She is super calm, and once you set her next to you or on you when she's out of her cage, she will either sit there, or sleep being super content and rarely walks around. I was watching her in her tank today, and she was being super active, jumping off her wood ledge, basking, glass dancing, running around. She is eating and has pooped, looked normal. Though I did catch her sleeping in the shade in her cage, us it normal for them to sleep during the day? I don't really see my other one sleep in the daytime.
Closes one/both eyes a lot?
- Thread starter Chelsea
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Goodtruant
Sub-Adult Member
Congrats on the new beardie! What kind of lighting do you have?
Here are a few other tips for new beardie owners.
-Lighting: (UVB) Reptisun 10.0 or Acadia 12% linear tube lights are the safest choice. Or a good Mercury vapor bulb. Coil and compact UVB bulbs are known to cause health problems for bearded dragons, please refrain from using them. Same goes with other brands of linear tubes. You can use a normal incandescent light bulb for basking (clear or bright white), or a reptile specific basking bulb. Basking light and UVB should be on 12-14 hours per day. MVB bulbs should be placed around 18" above the basking surface.
-No night lights, use a ceramic heater emitter instead. If you can afford it, a light timer and a thermostat take alot of worry out of lighting.
-Lots of room to roam around. 40 gal breeder tank minimum for an adult. Young beardies grow super FAST! 1-2" per month in some cases!
-Feed 2-3 times a day. At 2-3 months old they should be eating 10-30 crickets (or other feeder) per feeding. 30-90 a day! (THIS IS FOR YOUNG DRAGONS, Older dragons eat less protein and more veg.) Dubia roaches are a much better feeder for them, and are MUCH easier to keep (no escapes, live longer, can't climb, can't jump, don't bite...crickets will bite your beardie if left in the cage....,smell 10000% better, don't make noise, less likely to have parasites, more nutritious). Small dubia nymphs are great for growing beardies.
-Dust feeders with calcium +D3 (5 feedings per week) and/or multivitamin (2-3 feedings per week). Phoenix worms are worth a try. High in calcium (no dusting)! Also look in to hornworms and silkworms. Great for adult beardies.
-Good greens: collard, mustard, dandelion. Squash is great too! Offer greens daily, even if they don't eat them, they need to learn. I have to mix in some arugula or cilantro to get ours to get the greens.
-75-80 degrees on the cool side of the viv. A larger enclosure will provide your beardie a much better temperature gradient, from cool side to hot side. They can pick where they are comfortable that way.
-Basking surface temp of 102-105 should be good for most beardies. Take temps with a digital thermometer with a probe. You can get accurate surface temps with a infrared temp gun, but a probe placed on the surface will work too. Leave the probe in for 30 minutes to get a good temp reading. A probed temp is usually about 5-8 degrees lower than the actual surface temp, so take that in account.
-Bath water up to about their shoulders, and warm, about 90 degrees. Beardies seem to like to poo in water, and should be pooping once a day. Do this at least once a week if your beardie isn't eating many greens. You can also mist beardies with a bottle sprayer when they are young to hydrate them.
-Substrate: I would stay away from using sand, beardies might ingest the sand, which will cause impaction. Some use washed play sand with some success....but wait until your beardie is an adult. Never feed your beardie on sand, they will eat it. Repticarpet is a good choice, but can be annoying to keep clean. If you use carpet it's good to have two, so you always have a clean one. Sandstone/ceramic tiles are a really good choice, easy to remove and clean. They can also be baked to sterilize.
Good luck!
Here are a few other tips for new beardie owners.
-Lighting: (UVB) Reptisun 10.0 or Acadia 12% linear tube lights are the safest choice. Or a good Mercury vapor bulb. Coil and compact UVB bulbs are known to cause health problems for bearded dragons, please refrain from using them. Same goes with other brands of linear tubes. You can use a normal incandescent light bulb for basking (clear or bright white), or a reptile specific basking bulb. Basking light and UVB should be on 12-14 hours per day. MVB bulbs should be placed around 18" above the basking surface.
-No night lights, use a ceramic heater emitter instead. If you can afford it, a light timer and a thermostat take alot of worry out of lighting.
-Lots of room to roam around. 40 gal breeder tank minimum for an adult. Young beardies grow super FAST! 1-2" per month in some cases!
-Feed 2-3 times a day. At 2-3 months old they should be eating 10-30 crickets (or other feeder) per feeding. 30-90 a day! (THIS IS FOR YOUNG DRAGONS, Older dragons eat less protein and more veg.) Dubia roaches are a much better feeder for them, and are MUCH easier to keep (no escapes, live longer, can't climb, can't jump, don't bite...crickets will bite your beardie if left in the cage....,smell 10000% better, don't make noise, less likely to have parasites, more nutritious). Small dubia nymphs are great for growing beardies.
-Dust feeders with calcium +D3 (5 feedings per week) and/or multivitamin (2-3 feedings per week). Phoenix worms are worth a try. High in calcium (no dusting)! Also look in to hornworms and silkworms. Great for adult beardies.
-Good greens: collard, mustard, dandelion. Squash is great too! Offer greens daily, even if they don't eat them, they need to learn. I have to mix in some arugula or cilantro to get ours to get the greens.
-75-80 degrees on the cool side of the viv. A larger enclosure will provide your beardie a much better temperature gradient, from cool side to hot side. They can pick where they are comfortable that way.
-Basking surface temp of 102-105 should be good for most beardies. Take temps with a digital thermometer with a probe. You can get accurate surface temps with a infrared temp gun, but a probe placed on the surface will work too. Leave the probe in for 30 minutes to get a good temp reading. A probed temp is usually about 5-8 degrees lower than the actual surface temp, so take that in account.
-Bath water up to about their shoulders, and warm, about 90 degrees. Beardies seem to like to poo in water, and should be pooping once a day. Do this at least once a week if your beardie isn't eating many greens. You can also mist beardies with a bottle sprayer when they are young to hydrate them.
-Substrate: I would stay away from using sand, beardies might ingest the sand, which will cause impaction. Some use washed play sand with some success....but wait until your beardie is an adult. Never feed your beardie on sand, they will eat it. Repticarpet is a good choice, but can be annoying to keep clean. If you use carpet it's good to have two, so you always have a clean one. Sandstone/ceramic tiles are a really good choice, easy to remove and clean. They can also be baked to sterilize.
Good luck!
Thanks for the help, but I have her Reptisun 10.0 tube inside her cage, she has no nightlights, and is in a 20 long at the moment until she gets big enough to move into her 40 breeder where I will then eventually get her and my other one stackable showcase cages. I am thinking maybe the person selling the dragons used coil lights which irritated her eyes. I'd still want second opinions though, and as to why she is just so calm. You can set her anywhere and she will just stay there. For example I set her in her cage for the first time today and she just stayed there until I moved her. She eventually started becoming more active in her tank, but I am super worried about her. You can do anything to her and she won't care. My other one is a crazy baby, they are so different, I don't know of she is okay or not.
Goodtruant
Sub-Adult Member
Chelsea":1whimwet said:
Our beardie has a similar temperament. Pretty content to stay wherever we put him. But when he wants to get somewhere....there's no stopping him!
He did go through a phase for a month or so, where he just tried to jump off you, or on to anything. Have to be careful if you have them on your shoulder, they sometimes just leap to the floor...which is a long way!
Haha, that's cute. She literally napped on me for about an hour, waking up in between opening one eye and alternating between which eye she wanted open. Sometimes she will keep both open. She stayed in the same spot the whole time she was out. I'm worried she's lethargic or something. The "breeder" didn't seem to be very knowledgeable, but almost all if his babies were calm.
She is seeming lethargic, I picked her up and she opened her eyes then continued to lay in the exact same position with her head down, she looked dead in my hand. I held her and then she lifted her head up and was alert, but I've noticed her doing a weird thing with her throat where she will pop it out like she's swallowing but diffrently. She moves her head fast to look at things, when she even is alert.. I set her back in her tank and she sat there for a minute, then ran and started scratching at her tank, so I set her under her hide and she hasn't moved since. I am so scared, I've only had her for a day, but I love her a whole lot. I need help
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Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
