So I've posted last month about my baby beardie. I had him housed with another dragon. He got really stressed and stopped eating.. I've had them separated for over a month now and he is still not eating.... I've tried everything I can think of and I cannot get him to eat. He is EXTREMELY SKINNY. I fear he is slowly dying on me. I have him in a 40 gallon tank and someone told me that may be stressing him out cause of it being big??? I've tried crushed food, dry food, roaches, and at one point had him eating Baby food (mango) today he finally ate 3 roaches but I had to basically hand feed them. I'm lost as to what to do here now!
Beardie slowly dying
- Thread starter Cbolen06
- Start date
- Status
Can you post pics of him ? It's O.K to hand feed him, especialy if that's the only way he'll eat. What type of set up is it ? Post pics of him [ full body ] as well as his set up.Aw, I'm so sorry about him. One factor that impacts a beardie's health/digestion is basking temperatures; is he able to get to a basking spot that is 105-115 degrees F? Also, do you see him blackbearding any? I really hope he feels better. You can also try hand-feeding him some critical care with a needleless syringe to get his weight up for now.
Hello,
I am sorry your dragon is having some trouble.
Please do review your tank setup with us a little more so we can be sure it's all correct.
Hand feeding is fine, if you can get him to eat that way. He wont lick any baby food off of
his nose right now?
Has he been on any medications recently??
A 40 gallon should not be too large for him, but it does need to have the proper temperatures
& lighting for him.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
I am sorry your dragon is having some trouble.
Please do review your tank setup with us a little more so we can be sure it's all correct.
Hand feeding is fine, if you can get him to eat that way. He wont lick any baby food off of
his nose right now?
Has he been on any medications recently??
A 40 gallon should not be too large for him, but it does need to have the proper temperatures
& lighting for him.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
As well as making sure the UV and temps are RIGHT, if you have to hand feed him, so be it, not a great drama handfeeding a young dragon.
Here's my Cheat Sheet :
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050
If you work through it methodically , the chances are there are likely a lot of issues that need to be tweeked or changed and they will pop right out at you, if you can give very detailed answers we will then be in a position to offer help. Is impossible to help you if you don't provide thorough details .
Has he been seen by a reptile vet ? I think this is becoming critical and is something you need to do. They have facilities to tube feed and give special intensive care foods that can make a huge difference and turn things around IF THEY GET HIM IN TIME.
He needs at least two meals of live insects per day , I've swap over from calcium dust to a good quality liquid calcium and give him oral doses of this each day , you will need to weigh him regularly and adjust the dose of oral liquid calcium as he grows.
I give not more the 0.1 ml per squirt with liquids and come in from the side of his mouth so the liquid has less chance of being accidentially squirted straight into his lungs. If the dose is 0.4ml , it will take 3-4 squirts .
Here's my Cheat Sheet :
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050
If you work through it methodically , the chances are there are likely a lot of issues that need to be tweeked or changed and they will pop right out at you, if you can give very detailed answers we will then be in a position to offer help. Is impossible to help you if you don't provide thorough details .
Has he been seen by a reptile vet ? I think this is becoming critical and is something you need to do. They have facilities to tube feed and give special intensive care foods that can make a huge difference and turn things around IF THEY GET HIM IN TIME.
He needs at least two meals of live insects per day , I've swap over from calcium dust to a good quality liquid calcium and give him oral doses of this each day , you will need to weigh him regularly and adjust the dose of oral liquid calcium as he grows.
I give not more the 0.1 ml per squirt with liquids and come in from the side of his mouth so the liquid has less chance of being accidentially squirted straight into his lungs. If the dose is 0.4ml , it will take 3-4 squirts .
His cage set up has two basking lights, a uvb light, and a night light. All which during the day are on! At night I dim the one basking down real low and have the night light on. Ive tried doing the syringe but he won't open his mouth nor can I get it opened. The closets vet is a hr away from me. Every time I call in the day they have available is always the day I have to work, and they also are several weeks out. I don't want to give up on him but I've ran out of ideas. I can only get him to drink when I go to give him a bath. Here are some pics I just took this morning and I have just turned on the lights so the temp is from sitting over night!
Note: the lighting setup is all what came with the bearded dragon zoo med habitat
This is him when I first got him
Note: the lighting setup is all what came with the bearded dragon zoo med habitat
How old is he now? He is quite thin, but hand feeding him roaches is an excellent idea, I'd try to do it several times a day, that's what some people have to do to get them going. Same with the bath, if he drinks the water great.
There are multiple issues going on in your tank, mostly your lighting and also your thermometer. First of all, you absolutely cannot trust those cheap, stick-on thermometers, they can be off up to 20 degrees, do you may be cooking him. Plus, you have no way to measure his basking spot temperature, which is very important to his digestion. You need to go to Petco or PetSmart and buy a digital probe thermometer for $10. Then you need to measure all 3 major temps inside his tank before doing anything else. Be sure to allow the probe to sit in the spot you're testing for 20-30 each time before reading the temperature. So place the probe on his basking spot, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, read it, then move it to the floor on the Hot Side surrounding the basking spot, and do the same. Then move it to the floor of the opposite Cool Side and do the same. Too hot is sometimes worse than too cold.
Also, please try absolutely zero lights on at night, no nighttime heat source at all. Beardies want the nighttime temperature to drop well below their daytime temperatures, just like they do in the desert. As long as his tank is no cooler than 65 degrees at night, which most houses are or are warmer, he's fine. They also see in color, just like us, and colored bulbs can hurt their eyes and cause distress, so never use anything but a bright white basking light. At nighttime he wants it pitch black, like the desert. Any lights at all at night, whether "night bulbs" or not will disrupt his sleep, which is very important. So try no lights or nighttime heat sources on at all at night from now on, he'll be much more comfortable at night and sleep much better.
There are multiple issues going on in your tank, mostly your lighting and also your thermometer. First of all, you absolutely cannot trust those cheap, stick-on thermometers, they can be off up to 20 degrees, do you may be cooking him. Plus, you have no way to measure his basking spot temperature, which is very important to his digestion. You need to go to Petco or PetSmart and buy a digital probe thermometer for $10. Then you need to measure all 3 major temps inside his tank before doing anything else. Be sure to allow the probe to sit in the spot you're testing for 20-30 each time before reading the temperature. So place the probe on his basking spot, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, read it, then move it to the floor on the Hot Side surrounding the basking spot, and do the same. Then move it to the floor of the opposite Cool Side and do the same. Too hot is sometimes worse than too cold.
Also, please try absolutely zero lights on at night, no nighttime heat source at all. Beardies want the nighttime temperature to drop well below their daytime temperatures, just like they do in the desert. As long as his tank is no cooler than 65 degrees at night, which most houses are or are warmer, he's fine. They also see in color, just like us, and colored bulbs can hurt their eyes and cause distress, so never use anything but a bright white basking light. At nighttime he wants it pitch black, like the desert. Any lights at all at night, whether "night bulbs" or not will disrupt his sleep, which is very important. So try no lights or nighttime heat sources on at all at night from now on, he'll be much more comfortable at night and sleep much better.
Now, your lighting...You should only have 2 total lights for a 40 gallon breeder tank (which is not too large for him and is definitely not the issue at all), you should have a long, flourescent UVB tube (not a coil or compact UVB bulb) in a long, flourescent tube fixture, and then a single, bright white basking bulb, a regular household halogen indoor flood bulb is best, like the kind you get at Lowes or Home Depot. You will probably be fine with a 100 watt halogen indoor flood bulb, but let's get the $10 digital probe thermometer first and measure temps so we can see where you're at. But typically with a 40 gallon breeder tank, a 100 watt halogen indoor flood bulb is all you need to get proper temps. That's it. 2 lights. You're trying to replicate natural sunlight as closely as possible, so no colored bulbs, and the UVB tube must be right alongside the basking bulb and over the basking spot.
The lights that come in those kits are typically not adequate for a bearded dragon, and if the ZooMed kit you bought came with the Reptisun 10.0 COMPACT 13 watt UVB bulb, as most due, this is most likely a lot of his appetite issue, as well as causing a lot of other problems, as 12-14 hours every single day of exposure to a UVB light of proper wavelength and strength is responsible for most of their body systems proper functioning. That Reptisun compact 13 watt UVB bulb is not nearly strong enough for a beardie, plus, I see you have it on top of a mesh lid, which is blocking up to 40% of the already too weak UVB light. You need to go out and buy either a Reptisun 10.0 (never a 5.0!) T5 High-Output UVB tube and matching T5 fixture, either an 18" or 24" for a 40 gallon breeder tank (the sizes for this tube are actually 16" and 22"), or an Arcadia 12% tube, same length. Right now Amazon.com is selling a 36" Reptisun 10.0 T5 High-Output UVB tube for $24.99, so the 24" and 18" should be cheaper. Then follow the link on Amazon down to the package deal for the UVB tube and a matching T5 rated fixture. The T5 can sit on top of the mesh lid, but must be within 11" of the basking spot.
The lights that come in those kits are typically not adequate for a bearded dragon, and if the ZooMed kit you bought came with the Reptisun 10.0 COMPACT 13 watt UVB bulb, as most due, this is most likely a lot of his appetite issue, as well as causing a lot of other problems, as 12-14 hours every single day of exposure to a UVB light of proper wavelength and strength is responsible for most of their body systems proper functioning. That Reptisun compact 13 watt UVB bulb is not nearly strong enough for a beardie, plus, I see you have it on top of a mesh lid, which is blocking up to 40% of the already too weak UVB light. You need to go out and buy either a Reptisun 10.0 (never a 5.0!) T5 High-Output UVB tube and matching T5 fixture, either an 18" or 24" for a 40 gallon breeder tank (the sizes for this tube are actually 16" and 22"), or an Arcadia 12% tube, same length. Right now Amazon.com is selling a 36" Reptisun 10.0 T5 High-Output UVB tube for $24.99, so the 24" and 18" should be cheaper. Then follow the link on Amazon down to the package deal for the UVB tube and a matching T5 rated fixture. The T5 can sit on top of the mesh lid, but must be within 11" of the basking spot.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Keys to good hatchling health & apetite
Feeding : AT LEAST TWO ( THREE is better ) feeds of high quality live insects per day , if he wont eat by himself , hand feed him.
UV :
Barest minimum is a 26W 10%UVB compact mounted in a NanoHood (horizontal) UNDER THE MESH LID about 8 inches from the basking spot (aim 140-190 microW UVB/sq.cm.
===> very high UVA will help boost his appetite and activity levels
===> very high UVB (10% UVB MIN) will help him metabolise his dietary calcium and produce vitD3.
Both these are MANDATORY.
Better LONG TERM OPTION : a MVB and a T5HO 10-12%uvb tube mounted in a reflector hood UNDER THE MESH LID.
Heat :
I aim for a basking spot temperature not hotter than 43 degC
and
warm zone about 34 degC
and
cool zone about 28 degC
O/night : not cooler than 24 degC , warmer if he's sick ( maybe 30-37 degC ) to boost his metabolism and immune system . No light emitting heat sources for overnight. All my beardies have thermostat controlled 7W heatpad under their hides which run 24/7 and are set to hold 36-37 degC.
I'm coastal in a warm subtropical climate so it never gets very chilly here and my house is never colder than 23 degC.
Has a vet assessed him yet ?
Feeding : AT LEAST TWO ( THREE is better ) feeds of high quality live insects per day , if he wont eat by himself , hand feed him.
UV :
Barest minimum is a 26W 10%UVB compact mounted in a NanoHood (horizontal) UNDER THE MESH LID about 8 inches from the basking spot (aim 140-190 microW UVB/sq.cm.
===> very high UVA will help boost his appetite and activity levels
===> very high UVB (10% UVB MIN) will help him metabolise his dietary calcium and produce vitD3.
Both these are MANDATORY.
Better LONG TERM OPTION : a MVB and a T5HO 10-12%uvb tube mounted in a reflector hood UNDER THE MESH LID.
Heat :
I aim for a basking spot temperature not hotter than 43 degC
and
warm zone about 34 degC
and
cool zone about 28 degC
O/night : not cooler than 24 degC , warmer if he's sick ( maybe 30-37 degC ) to boost his metabolism and immune system . No light emitting heat sources for overnight. All my beardies have thermostat controlled 7W heatpad under their hides which run 24/7 and are set to hold 36-37 degC.
I'm coastal in a warm subtropical climate so it never gets very chilly here and my house is never colder than 23 degC.
Has a vet assessed him yet ?
Hello,
How is your dragon doing this evening?
He is a nice looking dragon, but thin. Did you try to hand feed him today?
Your UVB light, is it a long tube bulb, or a compact/coil light?
It is imperative that you do get some food into him, either hand feeding, or try again,
to drip food onto the end of his nose to see if he will take any of it.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
How is your dragon doing this evening?
He is a nice looking dragon, but thin. Did you try to hand feed him today?
Your UVB light, is it a long tube bulb, or a compact/coil light?
It is imperative that you do get some food into him, either hand feeding, or try again,
to drip food onto the end of his nose to see if he will take any of it.
Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
Thanks for asking. I haven't been able to get him to eat except for Saturday. I've had him drink two says in a row now which is good!! I've waited teb years to get me a hypo trans beardie and when I decided to get one this is what happens. My citrus beardie is doing great. Actually getting huge and he is just 2 weeks older then my One but yet ten times his sizeDrache613":2lc11x2i said:
Try mixing some turkey and squash baby food and use the syringe. You can part the side of his mouth by pulling the lip down slightly and gently push the syringe against his teeth and run it towards the front of his mouth. This usually gets mine to open their mouth or you can just put some baby food along the side of his teeth to get him to taste it first. But you really need to get him to eat. Start with mini meals during the day I'm sure his stomach has shrunk. Good luck.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Get a crop/feeding needle and follow instructions here to get food into his stomach , viewtopic.php?f=45&t=232687 , these feeding needless are made from stainless steel and designed NOT to cut / damage delicate tissues in gums, tongues and throats and they slip past the lips and teeth very nicely.
VetaFarm recommends a 14G crop needle for juvenile / hatchling lizards. Any vet can sell you a crop needle.
The stomach volume for a hatchling is 1-4ml per 100g bodyweight (err on the concervative side ie 1-2ml / 100g bodyweight and give several small meals by syringe and feeding needle per day).
A crop/feeding needle if great for getting liquid suppliments and oral medicines into stubborn lizards who will not open their mouths unless it's to bite.
If you are too scared to use a feeding syringe and feeding needle to get food into his stomach directly - your vet can demonstrate how to do this or take him into care in their animal hospital and do this for you long enough to get him over this hump and on the road to recovery and health.
There is nothing wrong with handfeeding/assist feeding , this vid is very similar to the technique I use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVupVG9E06s
, it's very easy and the hatchling wont take long to get the hang of it.
VetaFarm recommends a 14G crop needle for juvenile / hatchling lizards. Any vet can sell you a crop needle.
The stomach volume for a hatchling is 1-4ml per 100g bodyweight (err on the concervative side ie 1-2ml / 100g bodyweight and give several small meals by syringe and feeding needle per day).
A crop/feeding needle if great for getting liquid suppliments and oral medicines into stubborn lizards who will not open their mouths unless it's to bite.
If you are too scared to use a feeding syringe and feeding needle to get food into his stomach directly - your vet can demonstrate how to do this or take him into care in their animal hospital and do this for you long enough to get him over this hump and on the road to recovery and health.
There is nothing wrong with handfeeding/assist feeding , this vid is very similar to the technique I use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVupVG9E06s
, it's very easy and the hatchling wont take long to get the hang of it.
kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
Cbolen06":wuo1aq6w said:
They don't happen to be sharing a viv , or are able to see each other all day are they ?
- Status
Members online
No members online now.
Latest resources
-
General Care Practical tips: A healthy brumating bearded dragonPractical tips to help keep your bearded dragon healthy during brumation
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
-
Lighting Beginner Guide to Bearded Dragon LightingA basic lighting setup for any bearded dragon.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
Lighting Introduction to UV LightingMake a more educated purchase on your next UVB light.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
-
General Care Bearded Dragons - Care SheetAn all-in-one guide to caring for your bearded dragons.
- Shinryu
- Updated:
Latest profile posts
Go88 là một trong những nhà cái cá cược trực tuyến hàng đầu với danh tiếng vững chắc trong cộng đồng người chơi.
Website: https://https://appgo88.link/
Tag: #appgo88link #go88link #Game_Go88 #Game_bài_Go88 #Cổng_game_Go88 #Tài_xỉu_Go88 #Nạp_tiền_Go88 #Rút_tiền_Go88 #play_Go88
Website:
https://smartcity.bandung.go.id/member/bsc3090527795d
Website: https://https://appgo88.link/
Tag: #appgo88link #go88link #Game_Go88 #Game_bài_Go88 #Cổng_game_Go88 #Tài_xỉu_Go88 #Nạp_tiền_Go88 #Rút_tiền_Go88 #play_Go88
Website:
https://smartcity.bandung.go.id/member/bsc3090527795d
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
