BEARDIE NOT EATEN FOR 3 MONTHS

[Nelzix]

Hello, I have a bearded dragon who is 1.5 years old. He has not eaten for 3 MONTHS(he has eaten a little veg and a few super worms but apart from that nothing).I originally thought he was brumating, but now i am starting to think otherwise.

The symptoms he is showing are:
- Window surfing (wants to go out and roam, when he is out he is constantly running around)
- Active
- Currently shedding although he wasnt during the start.
- Small poo
- sits right under his basking lamp all the time (leads me to think he is not brumating)
- Hyper active (wants to go out and roam, and does not like to be held)

Temps and husbandry:
- Cool side 85 c
- Hot side 95 - 100 c
- his food was usually dusted with calcium
- has a hide on the basking lamp
- has been eating super worms for a half a year or so before that he ate crickets etc.
- has been having baths and drinking some water usually.


NEED HELP URGENTLY!!!!

Please tell me what i should do etc and what it could possibly be,
what he should eat, whether i should force feed!!!!
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!
I AM REALLY SCARED FOR HIM!!!!!!

 

[EllenD]

Hello, welcome to the forum...I'm sorry that your Dragon is going through this, it is quite urgent at this point (It doesn't sound at all like Brumation), so you may very well need to fine an experienced Reptile Vet if the cause is not obvious, but we will certainly try to help you and figure this out. But we need a lot more information about your Dragon, specifically about his environment first...

The first thing you can do is take some photos of both your Dragon and then of his entire enclosure/tank that shows how you have his lights set up. You can do this by using the "User Image Uploader" in the Task Bar at the top of the page to upload each photo individually to your account, then after you upload each photo hit "Post a Reply" and when the text box pops up, hit the button above it that says "XIMG" to insert each photo individually into the test box.

So your Dragon is a year and a half old, but how long have you had him? Are you absolutely certain that he's a male and not a female that could be carrying an infertile clutch of eggs? How long is he in inches from the tip of his snout the the very end of his tail?

What size of tank/enclosure is he in? What substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank?

EXACTLY what UVB light do you have, meaning what Brand Name, Model, Wattage, and Type of UVB light is it (Compact, Coil, long Tube, or Mercury Vapor Bulb)? This information is printed right on the light itself...How old is this UVB light? Is the UVB light sitting on top of a mesh lid to the tank? How far away in inches is the UVB light from your Dragon's basking spot/platform?

What Wattage and Color of Basking Bulb are you using? How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Light on?

What type of Thermometer(s) do you use to measure the Temperature Zones inside his tank? (Stick-On, Digital with a Probe on a Wire, or a Temperature Gun) Do you measure only the 2 Temperature Zones that you listed already, the Cool Side Air Temperature and the Hot Side Air Temperature, or do you have a way to measure his actual Basking Spot Temperature, which is a Surface Temperature, not an Air Temperature that can be read on Stick-on Thermometer?

What was his daily diet BEFORE he stopped eating normally?
How many days a had he been getting a Calcium Supplement? A Multivitamin Supplement?

 

[Nelzix]

Hello, welcome to the forum...I'm sorry that your Dragon is going through this, it is quite urgent at this point (It doesn't sound at all like Brumation), so you may very well need to fine an experienced Reptile Vet if the cause is not obvious, but we will certainly try to help you and figure this out. But we need a lot more information about your Dragon, specifically about his environment first...

The first thing you can do is take some photos of both your Dragon and then of his entire enclosure/tank that shows how you have his lights set up. You can do this by using the "User Image Uploader" in the Task Bar at the top of the page to upload each photo individually to your account, then after you upload each photo hit "Post a Reply" and when the text box pops up, hit the button above it that says "XIMG" to insert each photo individually into the test box.

So your Dragon is a year and a half old, but how long have you had him? Are you absolutely certain that he's a male and not a female that could be carrying an infertile clutch of eggs? How long is he in inches from the tip of his snout the the very end of his tail?

What size of tank/enclosure is he in? What substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank?

EXACTLY what UVB light do you have, meaning what Brand Name, Model, Wattage, and Type of UVB light is it (Compact, Coil, long Tube, or Mercury Vapor Bulb)? This information is printed right on the light itself...How old is this UVB light? Is the UVB light sitting on top of a mesh lid to the tank? How far away in inches is the UVB light from your Dragon's basking spot/platform?

What Wattage and Color of Basking Bulb are you using? How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Light on?

What type of Thermometer(s) do you use to measure the Temperature Zones inside his tank? (Stick-On, Digital with a Probe on a Wire, or a Temperature Gun) Do you measure only the 2 Temperature Zones that you listed already, the Cool Side Air Temperature and the Hot Side Air Temperature, or do you have a way to measure his actual Basking Spot Temperature, which is a Surface Temperature, not an Air Temperature that can be read on Stick-on Thermometer?

What was his daily diet BEFORE he stopped eating normally?
How many days a had he been getting a Calcium Supplement? A Multivitamin Supplement?

The substrate as you can see is grass pellets, he is definitely male i have checked and it has been Arcadia Euro Range Desert 10% Lamp 30"
Before he stopped eating his daily diet was mostly superworms for 5 months ish (dusted) and some crickets before that and not a lot of veggies but he did still have veggies readily available.

His basking air temp is 95 c so i would estimate the surface temp to be around 100 c

I am using a warm coloured 75 watt basking bulb and i was previously using 100 watt but had to lower the wattage due to power consumption and energy bills but the temperature have remained the same.. as you can see the basking bulb is in a dome and has a mesh cover under it

The both lights are on for 11 hours a day.

He weighs 650g and he is 51.5cm long (20 inches long)

I have had him for 1.5 years so since he was a hatchling

 

[kingofnobbys]

Hello, welcome to the forum...I'm sorry that your Dragon is going through this, it is quite urgent at this point (It doesn't sound at all like Brumation), so you may very well need to fine an experienced Reptile Vet if the cause is not obvious, but we will certainly try to help you and figure this out. But we need a lot more information about your Dragon, specifically about his environment first...

The first thing you can do is take some photos of both your Dragon and then of his entire enclosure/tank that shows how you have his lights set up. You can do this by using the "User Image Uploader" in the Task Bar at the top of the page to upload each photo individually to your account, then after you upload each photo hit "Post a Reply" and when the text box pops up, hit the button above it that says "XIMG" to insert each photo individually into the test box.

So your Dragon is a year and a half old, but how long have you had him? Are you absolutely certain that he's a male and not a female that could be carrying an infertile clutch of eggs? How long is he in inches from the tip of his snout the the very end of his tail?

What size of tank/enclosure is he in? What substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank?

EXACTLY what UVB light do you have, meaning what Brand Name, Model, Wattage, and Type of UVB light is it (Compact, Coil, long Tube, or Mercury Vapor Bulb)? This information is printed right on the light itself...How old is this UVB light? Is the UVB light sitting on top of a mesh lid to the tank? How far away in inches is the UVB light from your Dragon's basking spot/platform?

What Wattage and Color of Basking Bulb are you using? How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Light on?

What type of Thermometer(s) do you use to measure the Temperature Zones inside his tank? (Stick-On, Digital with a Probe on a Wire, or a Temperature Gun) Do you measure only the 2 Temperature Zones that you listed already, the Cool Side Air Temperature and the Hot Side Air Temperature, or do you have a way to measure his actual Basking Spot Temperature, which is a Surface Temperature, not an Air Temperature that can be read on Stick-on Thermometer?

What was his daily diet BEFORE he stopped eating normally?
How many days a had he been getting a Calcium Supplement? A Multivitamin Supplement?

<<< looks well fed to me , no sunken fat pads, can't see any obvious loss of condition on the body.
yes he's in shed.


The substrate as you can see is grass pellets, he is definitely male i have checked and it has been Arcadia Euro Range Desert 10% Lamp 30"
<<<< is that a compact UVB globe ? what wattage ?
<<<< appears too far away to be effective and sitting on top a fine mesh lid (not good)
<<<< how old is the UVB compact globe ?
..... good practice is to replace UV tubes and compacts and MVBs every 6 months (unless the manufacturer guarantees good performance for longer)
..... I recommend replacing with a T5ho 12%UVB mounted in an Arcadia Slimline t5ho reflector hood and hung UNDER the mesh lid.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND removing the pellets, might be OK for guinea pigs, rabbits and mice or rats , definitely not suitable for bearded dragon.
NO pellets. NO sand. NO gravel. No wood chips. No seeds. NO PARTICULATES are suitable.

I strongly recommend you find a local REPTILE VET and have your dragon examined , checked for severe impaction , can or an intestinal blockage - caused by his ingesting the pellets.



Before he stopped eating his daily diet was mostly superworms for 5 months ish (dusted) and some crickets before that and not a lot of veggies but he did still have veggies readily available.

His basking air temp is 95 c so i would estimate the surface temp to be around 100 c

I am using a warm coloured 75 watt basking bulb and i was previously using 100 watt but had to lower the wattage due to power consumption and energy bills but the temperature have remained the same.. as you can see the basking bulb is in a dome and has a mesh cover under it

The both lights are on for 11 hours a day.

<<<< 11 hours per day is way too short. Please bump this is up by about 4 or 5 hours per day.

He weighs 650g and he is 51.5cm long (20 inches long)

I have had him for 1.5 years so since he was a hatchling

 

[Nelzix]

Hello, welcome to the forum...I'm sorry that your Dragon is going through this, it is quite urgent at this point (It doesn't sound at all like Brumation), so you may very well need to fine an experienced Reptile Vet if the cause is not obvious, but we will certainly try to help you and figure this out. But we need a lot more information about your Dragon, specifically about his environment first...

The first thing you can do is take some photos of both your Dragon and then of his entire enclosure/tank that shows how you have his lights set up. You can do this by using the "User Image Uploader" in the Task Bar at the top of the page to upload each photo individually to your account, then after you upload each photo hit "Post a Reply" and when the text box pops up, hit the button above it that says "XIMG" to insert each photo individually into the test box.

So your Dragon is a year and a half old, but how long have you had him? Are you absolutely certain that he's a male and not a female that could be carrying an infertile clutch of eggs? How long is he in inches from the tip of his snout the the very end of his tail?

What size of tank/enclosure is he in? What substrate do you have in the bottom of his tank?

EXACTLY what UVB light do you have, meaning what Brand Name, Model, Wattage, and Type of UVB light is it (Compact, Coil, long Tube, or Mercury Vapor Bulb)? This information is printed right on the light itself...How old is this UVB light? Is the UVB light sitting on top of a mesh lid to the tank? How far away in inches is the UVB light from your Dragon's basking spot/platform?

What Wattage and Color of Basking Bulb are you using? How many hours each day do you leave both his UVB light and his Basking Light on?

What type of Thermometer(s) do you use to measure the Temperature Zones inside his tank? (Stick-On, Digital with a Probe on a Wire, or a Temperature Gun) Do you measure only the 2 Temperature Zones that you listed already, the Cool Side Air Temperature and the Hot Side Air Temperature, or do you have a way to measure his actual Basking Spot Temperature, which is a Surface Temperature, not an Air Temperature that can be read on Stick-on Thermometer?

What was his daily diet BEFORE he stopped eating normally?
How many days a had he been getting a Calcium Supplement? A Multivitamin Supplement?

<<< looks well fed to me , no sunken fat pads, can't see any obvious loss of condition on the body.
yes he's in shed.


The substrate as you can see is grass pellets, he is definitely male i have checked and it has been Arcadia Euro Range Desert 10% Lamp 30"
<<<< is that a compact UVB globe ? what wattage ?
<<<< appears too far away to be effective and sitting on top a fine mesh lid (not good)
<<<< how old is the UVB compact globe ?
..... good practice is to replace UV tubes and compacts and MVBs every 6 months (unless the manufacturer guarantees good performance for longer)
..... I recommend replacing with a T5ho 12%UVB mounted in an Arcadia Slimline t5ho reflector hood and hung UNDER the mesh lid.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND removing the pellets, might be OK for guinea pigs, rabbits and mice or rats , definitely not suitable for bearded dragon.
NO pellets. NO sand. NO gravel. No wood chips. No seeds. NO PARTICULATES are suitable.

I strongly recommend you find a local REPTILE VET and have your dragon examined , checked for severe impaction , can or an intestinal blockage - caused by his ingesting the pellets.



Before he stopped eating his daily diet was mostly superworms for 5 months ish (dusted) and some crickets before that and not a lot of veggies but he did still have veggies readily available.

His basking air temp is 95 c so i would estimate the surface temp to be around 100 c

I am using a warm coloured 75 watt basking bulb and i was previously using 100 watt but had to lower the wattage due to power consumption and energy bills but the temperature have remained the same.. as you can see the basking bulb is in a dome and has a mesh cover under it

The both lights are on for 11 hours a day.

<<<< 11 hours per day is way too short. Please bump this is up by about 4 or 5 hours per day.

He weighs 650g and he is 51.5cm long (20 inches long)

I have had him for 1.5 years so since he was a hatchling

He has lived on pellet all his life and i have never seen him ingest or show interest in the pellets but i will change the substrate ASAP.

The UVB is a tube fixture that is 30 inches long and is a 25 W tube

The UVB tube is 2 months old and i replaced it around the time i noticed his problems but I thought it was brumation...

And like i say he has been passing poo every week and considering he hasn't eaten much its quite suprising....

 

[EllenD]

Okay, so you have a T5 UVB tube that is a good tube, but how many inches away from him is it mounted? It must be within at least 10-11" to deliver effective UVB light to him (that goes for all T5 UVB tubes under 30 watts).

I'm going to say that his Basking Spot Surface Temperature is too low, you absolutely cannot "Assume" what his temperatures are, not any of them, but especially not his Basking Spot Surface Temperature, as this is the temperature zone that determines whether or not he can properly digest his food! And I'm going to assume that your answer means that you only have a stick-on thermometer(s), and have no way of measuring his Basking Spot Surface Temperature. This is a HUGE problem when owning a Bearded Dragon, or ANY Desert Reptile! Desert Reptiles lives literally depend upon them getting correct lighting and living within a temperature gradient that is representative of their natural environment.

The other issue with any and all stick-on thermometers is that they are extremely inaccurate, most of the round, gauge ones that are sold as being for reptiles are off by between 10-20 degrees in either direction when they are tested by an Infrared Thermometer. So you really need to at least run to the pet shop and spend $10 on a Digital Thermometer that has a Probe on a Wire. All Petco and PetSmart stores sell them, Zoo Med makes one that is yellow, and then I know at any Petco store, if they are out of the yellow ZooMed ones that are in with the reptile supplies, they also sell an identical Digital Probe Thermometer back in the Fish Aquarium section, in the aisle where the air pumps, bubble stones and wands, etc. are. It's black and I believe is the Petco brand. Both of these Digital Probe Thermometers cost $9.99 and are not optional when owning a Desert Reptile at all.

Your Hot Side Ambient/Air Temperature of 95 degrees is a bit high, assuming that the stick-on thermometer you are using is anywhere close to being accurate, so I'd be worried that his Basking Spot Surface Temperature is too hot. At a year and a half old, they typically like their Basking Spot Surface Temperature around 105 degrees, no higher. So please pick-up a $10 Probe Thermometer, and use it to measure ALL 3 TEMPERATURE ZONES, as if they are too hot this will definitely slow his appetite and cause lethargy. BE SURE TO ALLOW THE PROBE TO SIT IN THE SPOT YOU ARE MEASURING FOR AT LEAST 20-30 MINUTES EACH TIME BEFORE YOU READ THE TEMPERATURE, OTHERWISE IT WILL NOT BE ACCURATE, YOU HAVE TO ENSURE THAT THE TEMPERATURE ON THE THERMOMETER IS NO LONGER RISING. Obviously you can put the probe directly on his Basking Spot/Platform on the exact spot that he sits to bask, wait 30 minutes, then read the temperature. As far as using a Probe to measure his Hot and Cool Side Ambient/Air Temperatures, use the Suction Cup that comes with the Probe Thermometer and place it on the wire right below the Probe. Then stick the Suction Cup to the glass of the tank on the Hot Side, either the front glass or the side glass, about 2" above the floor of the tank, wait 30 minutes, then read the temperature. Then do the same on the Cool Side.

********As far as using grass/alfalfa pellets as the substrate for a Bearded Dragon, there are a dozen reasons why this is an awful choice as his substrate, but the best reason that I can give you that should make total sense to you, is THEY DON'T LIVE ON PELLETS IN THEIR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT. Obviously when you decide to bring a reptile, amphibian, etc. into your home and your life, your main goal when you're setting-up their enclosure/tank SHOULD BE to replicate their natural environment as closely as you possibly can. Why? Well, while most people will immediately say because it's what they are going to innately recognize and feel comfortable living in, which is very true. However, what most people don't think of or realize is that each different species' bodies are quite literally built/designed to not only live/survive in that natural environment, but also to THRIVE in that particular environment. That's why your Dragon getting at least 13-14 hours of strong, adequate wavelength UVB/UVA light every single day is not optional, because his body absolutely needs that to thrive and survive (KNOBBY'S WAS CORRECT, 10 HOURS IS FAR TOO SHORT A DAILY PHOTOPERIOD, PLEASE LEAVE BOTH HIS UVB TUBE AND HIS BRIGHT-WHITE COLORED BASKING BULB ON EVERY DAY FOR AT LEAST 13-14 HOURS MINIMUM)...

Bearded Dragons come naturally from the Deserts of Australia ONLY. No where else in the world. And if you've ever seen photos of the Australian Deserts that they naturally live in, there is little to no sand at all (so many people, especially from the US, automatically think that Dragons live in Deserts that are nothing but endless miles of deep sand, like the Deserts in California, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc.) The Deserts in Australia that they come from are a very hard, rocky terrain with different types of vegetation throughout, but little to no sand. The only "loose" matter on the ground are rocks/stones.

Forgetting that Bearded Dragons lick EVERYTHING as a type of sense, so yes, they are going to eat/swallow any and all types of loose substrate that you put them on, that's not always the main issue with certain loose substrates, like alfalfa/grass pellets. In my opinion, the main issue with Bearded Dragons living on ANY loose substrate at all is their propensity for #1) Skin/Scale Infections (bacterial, fungal, and parasitic), #2) Upper Respiratory Infections (this is a huge issue caused by loose substrates), #3) Chronic Eye infections and Irritations, and #4) The possibility of "Tail Rot" developing from an open wound/injury on their tails....ALL loose substrates are perfect breeding grounds for all harmful, infection-causing microbes, including bacteria, fungi, parasites, etc. The chance of them developing an Upper Respiratory Infection from not only the microbes that are harbored by all loose substrates, but simply from breathing in the DUST and small particles created by all loose substrates is extremely great. You've got to realize that your Dragon is sitting/laying on and walking in/through those pellets all day and all night, and he's constantly breathing-in the dust and small particles that are all throughout the tank. His chance of developing an Upper Respiratory Infection is huge, and not only that, but ALL ALFALFA/GRASS PELLETS CAN CONTAIN VERY HARMFUL FUNGAL SPORES THAT CAN CAUSE AN ASPERGILLUS INFECTION IN THEIR LUNGS, which is usually fatal, even with treatment by an experienced Reptile Vet with the correct Anti-Fungal medications.

So the question becomes, or already is, "Why in the world would you want to keep your Bearded Dragon on a loose substrate that is not only completely unnatural to him, but that is also potentially very harmful to his health?" And in the case of these pellets, I'm sorry, I don't understand using them in the first place at all...I'm not trying to be rude or disrespectful in any way, but as Knobbys already said, Alfalfa/Grass pellets might be great for rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, ferrets, or other rodents and small animals, but why in the world would anyone think to use them as the substrate for a Lizard that comes from the Australian Deserts? I just don't get that one, it would never occur to me to even consider using grass/alfalfa pellets as a substrate for any reptile/amphibian...Anyway, please do the right thing for your Dragon and dump the pellets out immediately, and then completely disinfect the entire inside of his tank and all of the decor as well, with very hot water and either F10 Disinfectant, Bleach, or Vinegar...You can also completely disinfect any decor made of stone, wood, or ceramics by pre-heating your oven to 250 degrees, and then placing them all directly on the oven rack and baking them for 45 minutes, then turn the oven off and let them sit for another hour or so, as they will be extremely hot. This method safely kills all of the harmful microbes that are living deep inside the porous wood and rocks.

*******As far as why your Dragon has stopped eating, I highly suggest that you go and pick-up a Digital Probe Thermometer and then properly take all 3 temperatures inside his tank, and I think that you'll find his temps are too hot, and this is influencing his appetite. Also, once again, make sure that the T5 UVB tube is within at least 10-11" of your Dragon's Basking Spot/Platform, and also please extend his daily Photoperiod of both his UVB tube and his bright-white colored Basking Bulb from 10 hours a day to at least 13-14 hours a day, as 10 is far too short. Assuming his temperature zones are too hot, you can adjust this by raising up his Basking Bulb away from the tank a few inches, waiting an hour or 2, then re-measure all 3 temperature zones again to ensure that the temps have gone down into the correct temperature zones (Cool Side Air between 75-80 degrees F maximum, Hot Side Air between 88-93 degrees F maximum, and Basking Spot Surface Temperature between 100-105 degrees F maximum; 110 degrees F should be the absolute hottest SURFACE temperature anywhere inside his tank, and 93 degrees F should be the absolute hottest Air/Ambient temperature anywhere in his tank...there is a bit of leeway with the Air Temps, but 110 degrees as the hottest Surface Temperature anywhere in the tank is crucial)...

 

[Nelzix]

Okay, so you have a T5 UVB tube that is a good tube, but how many inches away from him is it mounted? It must be within at least 10-11" to deliver effective UVB light to him (that goes for all T5 UVB tubes under 30 watts).

I'm going to say that his Basking Spot Surface Temperature is too low, you absolutely cannot "Assume" what his temperatures are, not any of them, but especially not his Basking Spot Surface Temperature, as this is the temperature zone that determines whether or not he can properly digest his food! And I'm going to assume that your answer means that you only have a stick-on thermometer(s), and have no way of measuring his Basking Spot Surface Temperature. This is a HUGE problem when owning a Bearded Dragon, or ANY Desert Reptile! Desert Reptiles lives literally depend upon them getting correct lighting and living within a temperature gradient that is representative of their natural environment.

The other issue with any and all stick-on thermometers is that they are extremely inaccurate, most of the round, gauge ones that are sold as being for reptiles are off by between 10-20 degrees in either direction when they are tested by an Infrared Thermometer. So you really need to at least run to the pet shop and spend $10 on a Digital Thermometer that has a Probe on a Wire. All Petco and PetSmart stores sell them, Zoo Med makes one that is yellow, and then I know at any Petco store, if they are out of the yellow ZooMed ones that are in with the reptile supplies, they also sell an identical Digital Probe Thermometer back in the Fish Aquarium section, in the aisle where the air pumps, bubble stones and wands, etc. are. It's black and I believe is the Petco brand. Both of these Digital Probe Thermometers cost $9.99 and are not optional when owning a Desert Reptile at all.

Your Hot Side Ambient/Air Temperature of 95 degrees is a bit high, assuming that the stick-on thermometer you are using is anywhere close to being accurate, so I'd be worried that his Basking Spot Surface Temperature is too hot. At a year and a half old, they typically like their Basking Spot Surface Temperature around 105 degrees, no higher. So please pick-up a $10 Probe Thermometer, and use it to measure ALL 3 TEMPERATURE ZONES, as if they are too hot this will definitely slow his appetite and cause lethargy. BE SURE TO ALLOW THE PROBE TO SIT IN THE SPOT YOU ARE MEASURING FOR AT LEAST 20-30 MINUTES EACH TIME BEFORE YOU READ THE TEMPERATURE, OTHERWISE IT WILL NOT BE ACCURATE, YOU HAVE TO ENSURE THAT THE TEMPERATURE ON THE THERMOMETER IS NO LONGER RISING. Obviously you can put the probe directly on his Basking Spot/Platform on the exact spot that he sits to bask, wait 30 minutes, then read the temperature. As far as using a Probe to measure his Hot and Cool Side Ambient/Air Temperatures, use the Suction Cup that comes with the Probe Thermometer and place it on the wire right below the Probe. Then stick the Suction Cup to the glass of the tank on the Hot Side, either the front glass or the side glass, about 2" above the floor of the tank, wait 30 minutes, then read the temperature. Then do the same on the Cool Side.

********As far as using grass/alfalfa pellets as the substrate for a Bearded Dragon, there are a dozen reasons why this is an awful choice as his substrate, but the best reason that I can give you that should make total sense to you, is THEY DON'T LIVE ON PELLETS IN THEIR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT. Obviously when you decide to bring a reptile, amphibian, etc. into your home and your life, your main goal when you're setting-up their enclosure/tank SHOULD BE to replicate their natural environment as closely as you possibly can. Why? Well, while most people will immediately say because it's what they are going to innately recognize and feel comfortable living in, which is very true. However, what most people don't think of or realize is that each different species' bodies are quite literally built/designed to not only live/survive in that natural environment, but also to THRIVE in that particular environment. That's why your Dragon getting at least 13-14 hours of strong, adequate wavelength UVB/UVA light every single day is not optional, because his body absolutely needs that to thrive and survive (KNOBBY'S WAS CORRECT, 10 HOURS IS FAR TOO SHORT A DAILY PHOTOPERIOD, PLEASE LEAVE BOTH HIS UVB TUBE AND HIS BRIGHT-WHITE COLORED BASKING BULB ON EVERY DAY FOR AT LEAST 13-14 HOURS MINIMUM)...

Bearded Dragons come naturally from the Deserts of Australia ONLY. No where else in the world. And if you've ever seen photos of the Australian Deserts that they naturally live in, there is little to no sand at all (so many people, especially from the US, automatically think that Dragons live in Deserts that are nothing but endless miles of deep sand, like the Deserts in California, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc.) The Deserts in Australia that they come from are a very hard, rocky terrain with different types of vegetation throughout, but little to no sand. The only "loose" matter on the ground are rocks/stones.

Forgetting that Bearded Dragons lick EVERYTHING as a type of sense, so yes, they are going to eat/swallow any and all types of loose substrate that you put them on, that's not always the main issue with certain loose substrates, like alfalfa/grass pellets. In my opinion, the main issue with Bearded Dragons living on ANY loose substrate at all is their propensity for #1) Skin/Scale Infections (bacterial, fungal, and parasitic), #2) Upper Respiratory Infections (this is a huge issue caused by loose substrates), #3) Chronic Eye infections and Irritations, and #4) The possibility of "Tail Rot" developing from an open wound/injury on their tails....ALL loose substrates are perfect breeding grounds for all harmful, infection-causing microbes, including bacteria, fungi, parasites, etc. The chance of them developing an Upper Respiratory Infection from not only the microbes that are harbored by all loose substrates, but simply from breathing in the DUST and small particles created by all loose substrates is extremely great. You've got to realize that your Dragon is sitting/laying on and walking in/through those pellets all day and all night, and he's constantly breathing-in the dust and small particles that are all throughout the tank. His chance of developing an Upper Respiratory Infection is huge, and not only that, but ALL ALFALFA/GRASS PELLETS CAN CONTAIN VERY HARMFUL FUNGAL SPORES THAT CAN CAUSE AN ASPERGILLUS INFECTION IN THEIR LUNGS, which is usually fatal, even with treatment by an experienced Reptile Vet with the correct Anti-Fungal medications.

So the question becomes, or already is, "Why in the world would you want to keep your Bearded Dragon on a loose substrate that is not only completely unnatural to him, but that is also potentially very harmful to his health?" And in the case of these pellets, I'm sorry, I don't understand using them in the first place at all...I'm not trying to be rude or disrespectful in any way, but as Knobbys already said, Alfalfa/Grass pellets might be great for rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, ferrets, or other rodents and small animals, but why in the world would anyone think to use them as the substrate for a Lizard that comes from the Australian Deserts? I just don't get that one, it would never occur to me to even consider using grass/alfalfa pellets as a substrate for any reptile/amphibian...Anyway, please do the right thing for your Dragon and dump the pellets out immediately, and then completely disinfect the entire inside of his tank and all of the decor as well, with very hot water and either F10 Disinfectant, Bleach, or Vinegar...You can also completely disinfect any decor made of stone, wood, or ceramics by pre-heating your oven to 250 degrees, and then placing them all directly on the oven rack and baking them for 45 minutes, then turn the oven off and let them sit for another hour or so, as they will be extremely hot. This method safely kills all of the harmful microbes that are living deep inside the porous wood and rocks.

*******As far as why your Dragon has stopped eating, I highly suggest that you go and pick-up a Digital Probe Thermometer and then properly take all 3 temperatures inside his tank, and I think that you'll find his temps are too hot, and this is influencing his appetite. Also, once again, make sure that the T5 UVB tube is within at least 10-11" of your Dragon's Basking Spot/Platform, and also please extend his daily Photoperiod of both his UVB tube and his bright-white colored Basking Bulb from 10 hours a day to at least 13-14 hours a day, as 10 is far too short. Assuming his temperature zones are too hot, you can adjust this by raising up his Basking Bulb away from the tank a few inches, waiting an hour or 2, then re-measure all 3 temperature zones again to ensure that the temps have gone down into the correct temperature zones (Cool Side Air between 75-80 degrees F maximum, Hot Side Air between 88-93 degrees F maximum, and Basking Spot Surface Temperature between 100-105 degrees F maximum; 110 degrees F should be the absolute hottest SURFACE temperature anywhere inside his tank, and 93 degrees F should be the absolute hottest Air/Ambient temperature anywhere in his tank...there is a bit of leeway with the Air Temps, but 110 degrees as the hottest Surface Temperature anywhere in the tank is crucial)...

Thank you for the response.

I am using digital probe thermometers if you looked at the picture but dont worry, I think you hit the nail on the head.. his surface basking temps are way too high at 122 f... So i will immediately lower the basking height.

I will also remove the pellets and immediately disinfect things.

You know I think you have finally found the cause of his problems as his basking temps are just too high and he has been scratching maybe to get out as it is to hot.

 

[EllenD]

122 degrees? Yeah, that's in the lethal range...Be careful "Lowering the Basking Spot/Platform", as you must keep it within at least 10-11" of the T5 UVB tube remember. You're always better off raising the Basking Bulb because it doesn't effect the distance from the UVB tube. A T5 UVB tube does give you more leeway than a T8 tube, which much be within at least 6" of the Basking Spot, but i've seen a lot of people move the Basking Spot/Platform further away to lower the temperatures, not thinking about the distance from the UVB tube, and not until their Dragon starts to develop a calcium deficiency from inadequate UVB light do they realize why...At 122 degrees you may even want to go down a bit in wattage of the Basking Bulb, you can simply buy a Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. as they are available in a ton of different wattages, odd wattages that allow you alter the temperature far more easily than most of the different wattage options that are available in Reptile specific Basking Bulbs...plus the Halogen Indoor Flood Bulbs are much cheaper too. I mean, you need to drop that Basking Spot Surface Temperature at least 17 degrees, so yeah, I'd actually just go down in wattage and not screw around with trying to raise it up, that's enough difference in temperature to go to a lower wattage of bulb.

That is definitely your issue, he's also most likely very, very dehydrated, so I also suggest that you drip water directly on his snout from either an eyedropper or an oral syringe for him to lick off, and let him have as much as he wants, do it until he either stops licking it off or he walks away. I'd do this 203 times a day for at least a few days, as the very high temps combined with him not eating any live bugs or salad has very likely caused him to be extremely dehydrated, and he needs a lot of hydration directly BY MOUTH...

 

[Nelzix]

122 degrees? Yeah, that's in the lethal range...Be careful "Lowering the Basking Spot/Platform", as you must keep it within at least 10-11" of the T5 UVB tube remember. You're always better off raising the Basking Bulb because it doesn't effect the distance from the UVB tube. A T5 UVB tube does give you more leeway than a T8 tube, which much be within at least 6" of the Basking Spot, but i've seen a lot of people move the Basking Spot/Platform further away to lower the temperatures, not thinking about the distance from the UVB tube, and not until their Dragon starts to develop a calcium deficiency from inadequate UVB light do they realize why...At 122 degrees you may even want to go down a bit in wattage of the Basking Bulb, you can simply buy a Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. as they are available in a ton of different wattages, odd wattages that allow you alter the temperature far more easily than most of the different wattage options that are available in Reptile specific Basking Bulbs...plus the Halogen Indoor Flood Bulbs are much cheaper too. I mean, you need to drop that Basking Spot Surface Temperature at least 17 degrees, so yeah, I'd actually just go down in wattage and not screw around with trying to raise it up, that's enough difference in temperature to go to a lower wattage of bulb.

That is definitely your issue, he's also most likely very, very dehydrated, so I also suggest that you drip water directly on his snout from either an eyedropper or an oral syringe for him to lick off, and let him have as much as he wants, do it until he either stops licking it off or he walks away. I'd do this 203 times a day for at least a few days, as the very high temps combined with him not eating any live bugs or salad has very likely caused him to be extremely dehydrated, and he needs a lot of hydration directly BY MOUTH...

Thank you I removed some of the excess basking height and i will move the uvb tube to the back of the tank where he will have more exposure to the uvb.
I am also dripping water on his nose currently and he is drinking alot. I did bathe him during the time as i thought he was brumating where i noticed he would dip his head into the water and drink for 20-30 seconds at a time

I will also if need be lower the wattage of his bulb

 

[Nelzix]

122 degrees? Yeah, that's in the lethal range...Be careful "Lowering the Basking Spot/Platform", as you must keep it within at least 10-11" of the T5 UVB tube remember. You're always better off raising the Basking Bulb because it doesn't effect the distance from the UVB tube. A T5 UVB tube does give you more leeway than a T8 tube, which much be within at least 6" of the Basking Spot, but i've seen a lot of people move the Basking Spot/Platform further away to lower the temperatures, not thinking about the distance from the UVB tube, and not until their Dragon starts to develop a calcium deficiency from inadequate UVB light do they realize why...At 122 degrees you may even want to go down a bit in wattage of the Basking Bulb, you can simply buy a Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. as they are available in a ton of different wattages, odd wattages that allow you alter the temperature far more easily than most of the different wattage options that are available in Reptile specific Basking Bulbs...plus the Halogen Indoor Flood Bulbs are much cheaper too. I mean, you need to drop that Basking Spot Surface Temperature at least 17 degrees, so yeah, I'd actually just go down in wattage and not screw around with trying to raise it up, that's enough difference in temperature to go to a lower wattage of bulb.

That is definitely your issue, he's also most likely very, very dehydrated, so I also suggest that you drip water directly on his snout from either an eyedropper or an oral syringe for him to lick off, and let him have as much as he wants, do it until he either stops licking it off or he walks away. I'd do this 203 times a day for at least a few days, as the very high temps combined with him not eating any live bugs or salad has very likely caused him to be extremely dehydrated, and he needs a lot of hydration directly BY MOUTH...

my beardie has started eating his dubia roaches, i have dusted them in calci dust (from vet ark) and he is looking much healthier and happier, he is also drinking the water from a pipette that i manage to wedge under his bottom lip and he drinks for a good amount of time.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that contributed to my beardies recovery and I hope he continues onward and upper wards

 

[EllenD]

I'm glad he is doing much better, he was just way too hot. This happens a lot, there are so many lighting and temperature things that you have to be aware of and remember with Desert Reptiles that it can be overwhelming, and it's not hard to miss something like this. Just keep hydrating him and he should not only slowly start eating more every day, but he should also become more active as well, since he's no longer so dehydrated and so hot.

 

[Nelzix]

I'm glad he is doing much better, he was just way too hot. This happens a lot, there are so many lighting and temperature things that you have to be aware of and remember with Desert Reptiles that it can be overwhelming, and it's not hard to miss something like this. Just keep hydrating him and he should not only slowly start eating more every day, but he should also become more active as well, since he's no longer so dehydrated and so hot.

Thank you!!