basking temp + not eating

[Littleleno]

We've had our baby a week last saturday (i've posted a few times). She wasn't eating, then ate 24 crickets one day. I thought we were finally over the stress of relocating. Now she's back to not eating and she hangs out longer and longer on the cool side. She ate two crickets Saturday, zero crickets sunday, and this morning her light has been on for almost 3 hours and she is still on the cool side. She has started being on the cool side longer and longer. She's awake and looking around, but not basking in her light. My temps were 110F on basking area. I decided to switch Therms (was using a digital probe). I switched to a meat therm w/ probe (Not sure how accurate it is but i'm trying different things :lol: ). I've had the probe sitting there maybe 10ish minutes and it's fluctuating between 112-114 right now. Could this be to hot? I believe we put in a 65 watt spot light. I'll have to double check that (it's to hot right now to look :lol: ). Could this cause her to not be eating? What wattage should i go down to??? Heat lamp is about 15 inches away from the rock (I can't really raise it as i don't have a clamp). What are your thoughts?? I have a digital therm on the cool side (it's not a probe, just sitting on the floor at the moment of her cage, It says 76F. Thoughts?? Baby Beardie is 10 weeks old.

 

[kingofnobbys]

We've had our baby a week last saturday (i've posted a few times). She wasn't eating, then ate 24 crickets one day. I thought we were finally over the stress of relocating. Now she's back to not eating and she hangs out longer and longer on the cool side. She ate two crickets Saturday, zero crickets sunday, and this morning her light has been on for almost 3 hours and she is still on the cool side. She has started being on the cool side longer and longer. <<< she is trying to cool off and thermoregulate , if she can't , a tiny hatchling can not withstand being overheat for long and excessive overheating will kill her.

She's awake and looking around, but not basking in her light. My temps were 110F on basking area. I decided to switch Therms (was using a digital probe). I switched to a meat therm w/ probe (Not sure how accurate <<<< it is not designed to measure air temperature , so the readings you are getting are worthless .

it is but i'm trying different things :lol: ).
<<<< this is not a laughing matter , if your hatchling is overheating , it is suffering .

I've had the probe sitting there maybe 10ish minutes and it's fluctuating between 112-114 right now. Could this be to hot? I believe we put in a 65 watt spot light. I'll have to double check that (it's to hot right now to look :lol: ). Could this cause her to not be eating?
<<< Yes
What wattage should i go down to??? Heat lamp is about 15 inches away from the rock (I can't really raise it as i don't have a clamp).
<<< you need to move the rock and move the lamp further away immediately.
<<< you need also to turn the basking globe off for a while to let the tank cool off several degrees.

What are your thoughts?? I have a digital therm on the cool side (it's not a probe, just sitting on the floor at the moment of her cage, It says 76F.
<<<< again these are worthless .... you need a proper digital probe at the warm zone and another at the cool zone
<<< it's rubbish - you need something that looks like
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-for-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-FISH-TANK-Temperature-LCD-Digital-Thermometer/331726814386?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3Da6f5ea8cea734501a82e05429c4152bb%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D391259141696
note the metal probe on the end of long cable.

Thoughts?? Baby Beardie is 10 weeks old
.

If those temperatures are correct, you are cooking and killing her, you need to check those temperatures with a good digital thermometer as a matter of urgency.
If the temperature is over 105oF at the basking spot it's too hot.
If the warm zone is over 90oF it is too hot.
If the daytime temperature is over 82oF it is too hot.

 

[Bear333]

Hello

Congratulations on your new beardie! I'm sorry she's not doing too well, maybe if you posted some pictures we could understand a little bit more. Is there any chance you could tell us what size the enclosure is, what type of UVB you're using, and if you're using any phosphorus free calcium supplements with D3 and multivitamins, and are you feeding her salads? Did you check to make sure your beardie went to the bathroom after all those crickets? If you're having trouble posting a picture, this link may help:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=138810

Keep us posted!

 

[kingofnobbys]

Is this the same hatchling discussed here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=232988&p=1793991#p1793991

Here is a guide to how to set up your thermal gradient and your UVA and UVB gradients.

 

[Littleleno]

Is this the same hatchling discussed here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=232988&p=1793991#p1793991

Here is a guide to how to set up your thermal gradient and your UVA and UVB gradients.

Yes, this is her. I have followed all recommendations, and this is how I have my tank set up. UVB bulb is 10.0 reptisun t8 at 8inches above basking area. It stretch almost the entire length of her cage. The tank is on the smaller side, as she is only 6 inches long. It's 2ft by 1ft. temporary. Just until my husband finishes her custom enclosure. (this has been discussed in the forum on a previous post).

Also, she did poop after she ate all those pinhead crickets.

When i posted in Cage Setup to double check things right when we got her, the temps were 110F with a infrared gun ( i will be getting this back, i lent it out) and everyone said this was good temps? This is not? Until then, i have a lower wattage bulb I will put in.

 

[Littleleno]

Hello

Congratulations on your new beardie! I'm sorry she's not doing too well, maybe if you posted some pictures we could understand a little bit more. Is there any chance you could tell us what size the enclosure is, what type of UVB you're using, and if you're using any phosphorus free calcium supplements with D3 and multivitamins, and are you feeding her salads? Did you check to make sure your beardie went to the bathroom after all those crickets? If you're having trouble posting a picture, this link may help:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=138810

Keep us posted!

Hi, yes, i did post a picture in another thread, I will have to get a new one as we changed the UVB bulb etc. I'm using a retpisun 10.0 at 8 inches above the basking area. The enclosure is 2ft by 1ft as she is about 6 inch now and my husband is building her a bigger enclosure that will last her through adulthood. Using Calcium without D3 5 times a week, and with D3 twice a week. i do not have multivitamins just yet.... i've been gut loading my crickets as well. and fresh greens offered daily.

 

[Littleleno]

We've had our baby a week last saturday (i've posted a few times). She wasn't eating, then ate 24 crickets one day. I thought we were finally over the stress of relocating. Now she's back to not eating and she hangs out longer and longer on the cool side. She ate two crickets Saturday, zero crickets sunday, and this morning her light has been on for almost 3 hours and she is still on the cool side. She has started being on the cool side longer and longer. <<< she is trying to cool off and thermoregulate , if she can't , a tiny hatchling can not withstand being overheat for long and excessive overheating will kill her.

She's awake and looking around, but not basking in her light. My temps were 110F on basking area. I decided to switch Therms (was using a digital probe). I switched to a meat therm w/ probe (Not sure how accurate <<<< it is not designed to measure air temperature , so the readings you are getting are worthless .

it is but i'm trying different things :lol: ).
<<<< this is not a laughing matter , if your hatchling is overheating , it is suffering .

I've had the probe sitting there maybe 10ish minutes and it's fluctuating between 112-114 right now. Could this be to hot? I believe we put in a 65 watt spot light. I'll have to double check that (it's to hot right now to look :lol: ). Could this cause her to not be eating?
<<< Yes
What wattage should i go down to??? Heat lamp is about 15 inches away from the rock (I can't really raise it as i don't have a clamp).
<<< you need to move the rock and move the lamp further away immediately.
<<< you need also to turn the basking globe off for a while to let the tank cool off several degrees.

What are your thoughts?? I have a digital therm on the cool side (it's not a probe, just sitting on the floor at the moment of her cage, It says 76F.
<<<< again these are worthless .... you need a proper digital probe at the warm zone and another at the cool zone
<<< it's rubbish - you need something that looks like
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-for-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-FISH-TANK-Temperature-LCD-Digital-Thermometer/331726814386?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3Da6f5ea8cea734501a82e05429c4152bb%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D391259141696
note the metal probe on the end of long cable.

Thoughts?? Baby Beardie is 10 weeks old
.

If those temperatures are correct, you are cooking and killing her, you need to check those temperatures with a good digital thermometer as a matter of urgency.
If the temperature is over 105oF at the basking spot it's too hot.
If the warm zone is over 90oF it is too hot.
If the daytime temperature is over 82oF it is too hot.

obviously i was trying to lighten the mood and use what resources i had available at 6am. cool side is 79F. i am not "cooking" her. and clearly I've been watching her closely and on this board several times doing my best. i was told here that 110F was good basking temp. i have posted my changes for you.

 

[Littleleno]

I switched bulbs, it's only getting to 90f. But that will have to do till I can make it to the store (mother of 3, baby is 4mo old). Doing the best I can. She ate 1 baby dubia roach, and 4 (1/2 inch) crickets this morning. So glad she ate something! Fresh dandilions are in her cage, and we will head to the store for a lower wattage heat bulb than the 65wAtt. But bigger than the 35watt I had on hand this morning. Also will be getting my infrared temp gun back from my friend.

 

[Littleleno]

I switched bulbs, it's only getting to 90f. But that will have to do till I can make it to the store (mother of 3, baby is 4mo old). Doing the best I can. She ate 1 baby dubia roach, and 4 (1/2 inch) crickets this morning. So glad she ate something! Fresh dandilions are in her cage, and we will head to the store for a lower wattage heat bulb than the 65wAtt. But bigger than the 35watt I had on hand this morning. Also will be getting my infrared temp gun back from my friend.

 

[kingofnobbys]

I switched bulbs, it's only getting to 90f. But that will have to do till I can make it to the store (mother of 3, baby is 4mo old). Doing the best I can. She ate 1 baby dubia roach, and 4 (1/2 inch) crickets this morning. So glad she ate something! Fresh dandilions are in her cage, and we will head to the store for a lower wattage heat bulb than the 65wAtt. But bigger than the 35watt I had on hand this morning. Also will be getting my infrared temp gun back from my friend.

If she eats any greens , regard that as a bonus at her very young age - so long as she doesn't fill up on the greens and then have no room for her live insect protein , is much more important at her age to eat LOTS of live insects at least two times per day (three times per day is better).

110oF is getting up into excessive basking temperatures for a hatchling. I think you''ll find she''ll be happier and will bask longer and hence soak up more UVA ( which will help enhance her apertite) and more UVB (which will help her metabolise her dietary more efficiently which means more vitD and hence better growth) if you tweek the basking temperature to just over 100oF (38oC)).


Also a bearded dragon's ideal body temperature is 36oC.

 

[Littleleno]

If she eats any greens , regard that as a bonus at her very young age - so long as she doesn't fill up on the greens and then have no room for her live insect protein , is much more important at her age to eat LOTS of live insects at least two times per day (three times per day is better).We have been trying to feed her 3-4 times a day when she doesn't eat anything the previous meal. Since she at a little breakfast, i will wait to offer her more food until lunch, then she will also get a dinner offering

110oF is getting up into excessive basking temperatures for a hatchling. I think you''ll find she''ll be happier and will bask longer and hence soak up more UVA ( which will help enhance her apertite) and more UVB (which will help her metabolise her dietary more efficiently which means more vitD and hence better growth) if you tweek the basking temperature to just over 100oF (38oC)).

A bearded dragon's ideal body temperature is 36oC.[/quote]

Thanks! She doesn't always eat any greens, but the week we have had her, she will usually try a bite or two of what is offered. will try and find a bulb that gets me temps around 100F.

 

[kingofnobbys]

If she eats any greens , regard that as a bonus at her very young age - so long as she doesn't fill up on the greens and then have no room for her live insect protein , is much more important at her age to eat LOTS of live insects at least two times per day (three times per day is better).We have been trying to feed her 3-4 times a day when she doesn't eat anything the previous meal. Since she at a little breakfast, i will wait to offer her more food until lunch, then she will also get a dinner offering <== sounds like a plan that should work, I tend to give the largest insect meal in the morning , then a smaller one just after lunch , then different insects (I favoured silkworms) + greens + grated veg up about 5pm , lights on 6am, off 10pm so loads of time to bask and digest food.

110oF is getting up into excessive basking temperatures for a hatchling. I think you''ll find she''ll be happier and will bask longer and hence soak up more UVA ( which will help enhance her apertite) and more UVB (which will help her metabolise her dietary more efficiently which means more vitD and hence better growth) if you tweek the basking temperature to just over 100oF (38oC)).

A bearded dragon's ideal body temperature is 36oC.

If you move the rock so it's not directly under the basking globe while still be under UV source, this will be like lifting the basking globe 2 - 3 inches further away .
And since radiant heat flux is an inverse square of distance relationship, it will have a significant impact on the basking temperature which will now be on the floor of the tank rather than the ontop of the rock.
Rough est of radiant heat flux at 8inches compared with 10inches from the globe is relatively easy to calculate the temperatures using the Stefan–Boltzmann law and a wee bit a cunning math (calculus) using areas of steradians at the old distance and the new distance gets temperature at the given distance from the heat source..

Thanks! She doesn't always eat any greens, but the week we have had her, she will usually try a bite or two of what is offered. will try and find a bulb that gets me temps around 100F.

 

[Drache613]

Moved by Moderator from General to Health

 

[jayce82]

well I can tell you from personal experience with mine, when he was a little baby he wouldn't bask unless it was 108*-110*. now that he's a little over a year he likes it in the 100*-103* range

 

[EllenD]

In my personal opinion, from experience, your main problem here is that your tank is WAY TOO SMALL!!! I understand she is only 6 inches and that your husband is building an enclosure for her, but a 2 feet by 1 foot tank is WAY TOO SMALL for any Bearded Dragon, even a hatchling, not because of the available space inside it, but rather because it is impossible to have a temperature gradient of any kind inside it. You say she is "always laying on the "cool" side", but the fact of the matter is that your tank size isn't really allowing for a cool side at all. It's too close to the side with the basking light. So it's become a vicious cycle for your beardie-she won't bask under the light because she's already too hot/over heating on the "cool side", as already mentioned by someone else, and not basking under the light isn't allowing her to absorb enough UVB for enough hours each day, which doesn't allow her to process her calcium, D3, and all other nutrition, which can result in a lack of appetite, bone density issues, etc. This is the most important time of her life to get adequate nutrition and calcium so that she will properly grow...

I don't know how soon your husband will have her enclosure ready, but it cannot be soon enough. I'm guessing you will see a huge difference in her as soon as you get her out of that tiny tank, as it is essentially an oven that really is "cooking her", as already said...