baby beardie wont eat for over a week

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SevzLight

Member
I'm not sure how old my beardie is, as I got him/her from petsmart. He was doing okay for the first week or so, and I was providing mealworms. After the first week, I bought more mealworms and bought some wax worms, he didn't seem to like the wax worms so I stopped feeding him them. I also gave some vegetables from this veggie diet kit that added calcium and protein with the veggies. This is when he stopped eating, and he's also been shedding since then. It's been roughly a week and a half now since he ate, and he's still shedding, he's gotten very skittish, normally sits on his rock under his basking light, and I have a UVB fixture as well.
The temperature of the tank is around 110-120 at the highest point in his basking spot, and around 90 degrees on the cool side, he doesn't wanna leave his basking spot. I have tried bathing him to help shedding, and I have helped him for the most part, but he's been skittish still, and not eating, but he will taste the mealworm... so he's maybe hungry?
Last night he waved at me, and kept staring at me, and he calmly let me hold him and he slept on my bed for awhile with me (finally). And around 20 minutes i put his sleepy butt in the tank to let him and me go to bed.

I'm not too sure what to say besides, what I should be trying to do to help him eat again and help him get the rest of the dead skin off. He has gotten most of it off, besides a small section of his fore and hind legs and his tail.

He's also 7 1/2 inches now, I just measured him, to give an idea how young he is.
 

Pushkin

Juvie Member
I'm a new beardie owner myself, but from what I keep reading, mealworms are not a very good feeder - a lot of chitin and not a lot of nutrition. Phoenix worms, crickets, or roaches are a better choice!

Has your dragon been pooping daily? If not, it could be a little impacted maybe from the chitin? Maybe try bathing it in warm water to see if that helps?
 

cfjustin

Hatchling Member
SevzLight":3e856r7j said:
I'm not sure how old my beardie is, as I got him/her from petsmart. He was doing okay for the first week or so, and I was providing mealworms. After the first week, I bought more mealworms and bought some wax worms, he didn't seem to like the wax worms so I stopped feeding him them. I also gave some vegetables from this veggie diet kit that added calcium and protein with the veggies. This is when he stopped eating, and he's also been shedding since then. It's been roughly a week and a half now since he ate, and he's still shedding, he's gotten very skittish, normally sits on his rock under his basking light, and I have a UVB fixture as well.
The temperature of the tank is around 110-120 at the highest point in his basking spot, and around 90 degrees on the cool side, he doesn't wanna leave his basking spot. I have tried bathing him to help shedding, and I have helped him for the most part, but he's been skittish still, and not eating, but he will taste the mealworm... so he's maybe hungry?
Last night he waved at me, and kept staring at me, and he calmly let me hold him and he slept on my bed for awhile with me (finally). And around 20 minutes i put his sleepy butt in the tank to let him and me go to bed.

I'm not too sure what to say besides, what I should be trying to do to help him eat again and help him get the rest of the dead skin off. He has gotten most of it off, besides a small section of his fore and hind legs and his tail.

He's also 7 1/2 inches now, I just measured him, to give an idea how young he is.

He may be impacted. Rub his belly in a warm bath and monitor his pooping. Mealworms provide little to no nutrition, and like Pushkin said they have a hard chitin shell that is hard to digest. You may want to give a drop or two of virgin olive oil to give him a little laxative. It may be stress, since he's waving at you means he is submissive to you.
 

destiny1998

Extreme Poster
Photo Comp Winner
Hi. Can you give a run down of his set up? His temps are to hot. They should be 100 to 110 ON his basking spot and the cool side should be high 70s to mid 80s. How are you taking the temps. As previous posters have said mealworms are not good feeders. Hornworms, Phoenix worms, silk worms, crickets and dubia roaches(depending on where you are) are good feeders.
 

SevzLight

Member
Original Poster
I have two thermometers set up at his basking spot and the cool side, unfortunately, the thermometer at his basking spot is at the bottom, and there's an elevated rock where he sits on which is closer to the basking light, but the thermometer is directly under it. The thermometer says 110, but im assuming 120 because the rock is closer to the light. I will stop feeding him mealworms as of now, and il try to give him a bath again. Any ideas of how to hold him awhile rubbing his belly without mega squirm? I will try the virgin olive oil. The day he waved at me was the day I took him out last, and he was very calm with me, and slept right on me, he might be stressed, but im trying... I will buy crickets tomorrow in the morning, and I'm also going to upgrade his UVB bulb. His tank is a 29 gallon tank at the moment, and I purchased a 40 gallon tank for when he gets too big. He's on reptile carpet for now until he gets bigger for calcium sand. He has a log, two rocks, a fake plant and a medium sized water dish which I rinse out every other day. His basking light is a 75 watt heat bulb, and right now the UVB bulb I have is not promising enough because it came with the light fixture. I'm gonna buy the 10.0 one everyone suggests. I have also tried feeding him veggie and fruit mix from petsmart, and juvenile bearded dragon entree from pets mart, but he rejects both of those now as well. The night light I have for him is a 60 watt blue bulb, but it's pretty dark so he sleeps just fine. If I leave the tv on at a low volume at night, will that stress him? I can try to provide pictures upon request of EVERYTHING if it will help out more!
 

cfjustin

Hatchling Member
SevzLight":16smg3te said:
I have two thermometers set up at his basking spot and the cool side, unfortunately, the thermometer at his basking spot is at the bottom, and there's an elevated rock where he sits on which is closer to the basking light, but the thermometer is directly under it. The thermometer says 110, but im assuming 120 because the rock is closer to the light. I will stop feeding him mealworms as of now, and il try to give him a bath again. Any ideas of how to hold him awhile rubbing his belly without mega squirm? I will try the virgin olive oil. The day he waved at me was the day I took him out last, and he was very calm with me, and slept right on me, he might be stressed, but im trying... I will buy crickets tomorrow in the morning, and I'm also going to upgrade his UVB bulb. His tank is a 29 gallon tank at the moment, and I purchased a 40 gallon tank for when he gets too big. He's on reptile carpet for now until he gets bigger for calcium sand. He has a log, two rocks, a fake plant and a medium sized water dish which I rinse out every other day. His basking light is a 75 watt heat bulb, and right now the UVB bulb I have is not promising enough because it came with the light fixture. I'm gonna buy the 10.0 one everyone suggests. I have also tried feeding him veggie and fruit mix from petsmart, and juvenile bearded dragon entree from pets mart, but he rejects both of those now as well. The night light I have for him is a 60 watt blue bulb, but it's pretty dark so he sleeps just fine. If I leave the tv on at a low volume at night, will that stress him? I can try to provide pictures upon request of EVERYTHING if it will help out more!


Are the thermometers with probes? Dial thermometers can be off by 20 degrees either way. Just rub the sides of him while he's in the water. I would not use the blue light, no matter what he can still see it. If your room the he's in doesn't drop below 65 degrees at night then no heat source is needed and if it does use a CHE. Leaving the TV volume on at night wouldn't effect him. Can you provide us with a setup picture and any other pictures you feel are neccesary?
 

destiny1998

Extreme Poster
Photo Comp Winner
Yes pictures of the set up and beardie will help us. Just wanted to add calcium sand is not good at all for any size beardie. I use ceremic tile. Its really easy to keep clean, no risk of impaction and it keeps their nails filed.
 

SevzLight

Member
Original Poster
6itksz.jpg

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*note: Those are not droppings, every day i offer meal worms and the entree to see if he will maybe eat it if I leave him be, they have dried up and I will pick them up eventually (I just cleaned his tank 3 days ago)
They are dial thermometers, and those are the mealworms, waxworms and the other food I was talking about, the dried veggie and fruit mix just needs to be hydrated before feeding, he actually ate it once before he started shedding. He seemed to really like it.
 

KarenInCA

Juvie Member
Do you also have an approximate length? I would not feed hornworms to him unless he is about 14-15 inches long from tip of tail to tip of nose. Mine choked on a hornworm when he was smaller than that.

Phoenix worms are a great source of worm to use for them. You can sink a spoonful of them into a bowl and let the substrate fall and the phoenix worms will float to the top. Then you can feed them to him in a shallow bowl.
Tiles work well for substrate, as long as you clean them with a disinfectant okay for dragons. But no need for loose substrate at all. Once you purchase tiles, that's it. No need to purchase anything else, except for a nontoxic antibacterial spray for cleaning it. Or you can take them out when they have poop on them, and wash them with bleach/water solution and let them dry outside the tank.

Meal worms will constipate them, as you heard, because of the hard shells on them. and wax worms are very fatty, so long term wax worms can mess up their organs.
You don't need to dust soft worms, like phoenix worms, horn worms, or butter worms. And all of them are hydrating for dragons. But you do need to dust crickets.
Depending on his length, you will need to get small, medium or large crickets. Keep the crickets in a cricket bin and feed them cricket chow and water crystals, not straight water, because they will drown in water and do not like humidity. You can get a cricket bin that allows them to travel up into black tubes (if you are a novice cricket master like me) and then dump out as many as you need from the tubes. You can also feed them green cubes which contain gut load as well as water. And I feed mine sliced apple for the added hydration/nutrition. They will last about a week if they are large crickets, and a bit longer if they are small/medium crickets.

As for baths, fill the tub to his shoulders with warm water, warmer than cool and not as warm as steam coming off. He might squirm around at first, and might show that he does not like it, but dragons need baths for hydration, as they rarely drink any water in their terrariums. Put a folded washcloth in the tub with him, and let his front legs stand on it. If he moves off the washrag, put him back on it. At some point, he might get fidgety and move around, that might be because he wants out or it might be because he has to poop. If he poops, let him finish then drain the water out all the way, and add more, just to make sure he is cleaned off. Ideally, he should be in the tub for about 10-15 minutes which could seem like forever when you are on your knees tending to him in the tub.
I bathe mine in a bathtub that we don't use as people (We share the shower and a second tub for soaking). Just to give you an idea, when it's a big tub, he loves it, and eventually falls asleep in the tub unless he has to poop. But in a sink he squirms and tries to jump out. It's like he has two different personalities, and you would NEVER know how much he likes a bath if you saw him in a shallow, enclosed area like a sink. He likes to walk around till he is settled in, and the bathtub is the best place for him to do that. If you don't have a spare bathtub in the house, you can get a large tote from walmart/Target, and fill it with water to his shoulders, but you will have to make sure you empty it clean and refill it if he poops which can be much more difficult than just opening the drain. I would, at this point, give him a bath every day/night till you know he has pooped, then go to once a week.

Also, try using fresh greens instead of the frozen ones you have in the bag. They are a little more work, but more appealing. I would save the frozen ones for times when you don't have fresh available. You can rinse the greens in cold water and drain them prior to putting them in his bowl and then his tank, which also adds to hydration so he can poop later. Some good, fresh greens are collard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens. You can buy them in different grocery stores (might need to ask where you can find them in your store), and I piece apart a handful of each and put them into a baggie, that I use for about 3 days, then dig in for more. I also use different other veggies to sprinkle on top. Usually it's butternut squash or spaghetti squash. You can purchase one in the store, and cut in to it, on the small piece you have, cut off and discard the outer shell, and any seeds, then shave it off finely with a paring knife on top of the greens. One squash will sit nicely (even when cut into) on your kitchen countertop for 1-2 weeks as you cut in to it daily. You can also use dandelion flowers, shaved carrot peels, or finely torn rose petals as long as you know they are from your own yard with no pesticides on them. Try to stay away from iceberg lettuce, spinach, or kale, as spinach and kale bind to calcium and cause problems absorbing calcium, and iceberg lettuce has no nutritional value.
 

cfjustin

Hatchling Member
SevzLight":1cba6loz said:
6itksz.jpg

fl8s29.jpg

2lm2rle.jpg

2mcrko.jpg

*note: Those are not droppings, every day i offer meal worms and the entree to see if he will maybe eat it if I leave him be, they have dried up and I will pick them up eventually (I just cleaned his tank 3 days ago)
They are dial thermometers, and those are the mealworms, waxworms and the other food I was talking about, the dried veggie and fruit mix just needs to be hydrated before feeding, he actually ate it once before he started shedding. He seemed to really like it.

You will need to swap out the dial thermometers with digital w/ probes. Dials could be 20 degrees off which means your basking spot could be 140 degrees or 100 degrees. Scary right? Take him off mealworms ASAP and swap with crickets or preferably dubia roaches(if allowed). Mount your UVB inside the tank using command hooks, 3m double sided tape, or velcro. The screen filters out alot of the UVB they need. What UVB bulb is it. You should be using Repti-sun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% which is the best bulb out on the market
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
The issue could be the lighting/temperatures. Those dial thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. I'd swap them out with a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun so you can get better control of the temperatures. I also suggest switching the basking light to one side so you can have a hot side and a cooler side to help him regulate his temperature. I would try to move the UVB fixture to the basking side as well and try to mount it in a way that it isn't going through the mesh, as that can block a lot of the UVB rays from getting to your dragon. Getting the ReptiSun 10.0 will help a lot as well. I'm not familiar with the dried food you have so I can't comment on that, but I suggest replacing the mealworms with phoenix worms if you can because they are more nutritious and are a bit softer and easier to digest.
 

SevzLight

Member
Original Poster
I will buy crickets, I will invest in digital thermometers, and get the 10.0 reptisun bulb, I will try the idea for the bath tomorrow as well and I will look into the tile (very easy to take care of). I will also put the basking on one side, and I will try my best to mount the uvb. I will try to keep everything updated with this forum, everyone has been a really great help into helping me understand my beardie better. I clearly wasn't prepared for this, but I'm dedicated enough to have a bearded dragon live a happy life. Thank you everyone for the advice, I have the day off of work tomorrow so I'll keep this post updated and we will see how it goes!
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Sounds good, please do keep us posted and let us know if you have any more questions or need a sounding board. =)
 

Brezzy99

Sub-Adult Member
You could also cut a hole in the screen for the uvb. The screen blocks some of the uvb which is why most mount it inside the tank. I have one of mine mounted inside the tank and the other I had to cut a hole in the screen.

Good luck getting everything set up!
 

SevzLight

Member
Original Poster
Hey guys, it's been a little bit since my original post, over the time, I have switched diets to crickets, and he was eating everyday up until now, it's been a couple days since he ate again, and now it seems that he's tired a lot. He's pretty young so I don't think it's brumation. Plus he normally just basks under the basking light. He sleeps a lot, and he's calmed down a lot as well, when i pick him up he falls asleep on my hand. I have also upgraded my uvb light to a 10.0. I have given him a bath just now and he just sat there relaxing and drinking some of the water. There was no bowel movement from the bath. I tried to feed him and he just looks around and starts getting sleepy. the other day he was glass surfing when i put him in the cricket cage. (my cricket cage is a 20g tank with a cricket carrier, inside the carrier are a lot of crickets, and I leave around 5 at a time outside of the cricket carrier inside of the cage. But he doesn't seem to be interested in the crickets right now. When I try to let him down, and just crawls back onto my hand. I just now change the heat bulb to a infrared basking light and he seems to be a little more alert... Any ideas?
 
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