kmwilson042182
Hatchling Member
Since his appetite is decreasing as well, I would definitely have a fecal done.
Kyle
Kyle
kmwilson042182":1qmw2f81 said:No colored night light correct?
kmwilson042182":3sb7etyp said:Mealworms probably aren’t a good idea. I’m assuming he is still very small. BSF larvae would be a better idea. It is very strange. Quite possible the coils hurt his eyes. Good he is eating and pooping. All I can say is keep a close eye on it. Post some pics of setup when you can. I had trouble viewing the links. Hopefully the new UVB placed correctly will do the trick.
Kyle
kmwilson042182":272hs8uw said:Also, since you have only had him a week maybe slow down a little bit on the handling. He could still be having some relocation stress. Let him settle in a little more. The stress from the relocation can cause any light parasite load he might have had to start winning the battle.
Kyle
Drache613":29ke5pdc said:Hello,
Your tank setup sounds good. Are you using a digital thermometer/probe or a temp gun to
measure the temperatures?
The starter kits are very frustrating indeed! I simply don't understand why they continue to
include the compact/coil lights since they are such poor quality of lights.
Do you have any sterile saline solution you could use for his eye, daily to help wash it out?
Also, if he seems to be bulging his eyes, that is also a common behavior that occurs when
they are shedding their head & eye areas, simply to stretch the skin around that area.
I agree, I would opt for a fecal but maybe give him a few more days to get destressed from
being in a new home as well.
Tracie
kmwilson042182":239lydhr said:Hopefully it is just a head shed and his face is bothering him. The digital probes are good. I would also recommend investing in a thermal temp gun too. You can get one on amazon or at Home Depot for like $15. They are really handy for getting the surface temp of the basking spot as well as spot checking areas all throughout the enclosure. Hope your little guy gets back to normal very soon!
Kyle
kmwilson042182":21izvpha said:I think you need to have a fecal done to rule out any parasites. Some vets will do a fecal if you just bring them poo. Usually about $20 or so I believe. Don't quote me though cause my sister is the manager of a vet clinic and I get all mine for free. If it doesn't correct pretty quickly under the new light, then a vet trip is probably next. Your new light, were you able to put it inside the cage? Did you get the T8 or T5? If the T8 it definitely needs to go inside and should be about 6 inches away at closest spot with some variation here and there so your little guy can regulate. If T5 and inside it should be about 10-12 inches with variation here and there. I don't shine my T5's through a screen, but if you do it would need to be closer than if you don't. Also, if your fixture has a plastic cover, meaning the light would have to shine through the cover, then remove it, it would block all the UVB.
Kyle
claudiusx":25urvm0b said:Hi, you mentioned the wattage of your bulb. Is this a reptile basking bulb or a household bulb. Do you have the box it came in so we can see?
It's not on a dimmer correct?
With everything you've mentioned especially the scraping of the face due to shed, I'd most likely say that the eye bulging is due to the shed.
That being said, compact fluorescents are very glaring and harsh lights on the eyes, so your dragon could have simply been closing them because of that.
Your dragon is young, its very unlikely that there is any eye damage from the CFL with such a relatively short exposure time. Personally I think you can stop with the saline solution, but its your choice. I only mention it as a way to keep stress down.
Like Tracie mentioned, I'd wait a bit on the fecal test. Stress can cause parasite counts to rise and cause potential false positives.
-Brandon