jargonchipmunk
Juvie Member
okay. I've been having a friend build me my custom stacked vivs for... well.... far too long. General Tso and Mushu are outgrowing their temporary enclosure that they were only supposed to stay in for a few weeks. It's finally nearing completion and from looking at it, I think it's all going to be worth it! Looks fantastic, and it's built like a tank! Ed does amazing work. He took longer because he was working without a plan, but he told me he'd be able to crank one out in half the time next time if I ever found anyone who wanted him to build them the same.
Anyway...
Regarding dubia.
I had him build the bottom section into cabinets beneath the two vivs so I could keep stuff down there. I bought the bins for my Dubia yesterday, and test-fit them... worked perfectly. They juuuust fit together in the cabinets underneath. He's putting a vent in the back of the cabinets just for this purpose. My question is: I see everyone putting a 10" square hole for venting in the top of the Dubia bins. My crickets needed a LOT mroe ventilation than that, but I assume this is because Dubia like it a bit more humid. Will I need to increase the size of this vent if I'm housing them underneath the viv in the cabinets or is this worrying over nothing, and the vent in the back of the cabinets will be enough to make it work? I'll be installing heat tape in the floor of the cabinets with a rheostat to dial in the temps once they're under there.
Regarding CHE's.
I'm using three "fixtures" in the tank. I might not NEED all three, but I put built this thing "overdone" so I didn't have to do a lot of work to upgrade. I know there's always a lot of tinkering in any viv to get it just right, so I tried to account for any possibilities beforehand. There's a flourescent for the reptisun 10.0 tube, and two incandescent fixtures. One for the spot, and one for a CHE. My goal, originally, was to get a bright light that didn't put off TOO much heat for the basking light so that it didn't bring the basking temps up to par. Then, I could use the CHE pointed at the same spot to dial in the temps where I needed them. That way, during the temperature changes in summer and winter, etc, I wouldn't have to change wattages of the basking light to make things right, I'd just adjust the dimmer on the CHE slightly to keep the basking temps spot on. Am I right on this?
Thanks for answers in advance, I know I always write a friggin novel of a question, but I like details lol. :study:
Anyway...
Regarding dubia.
I had him build the bottom section into cabinets beneath the two vivs so I could keep stuff down there. I bought the bins for my Dubia yesterday, and test-fit them... worked perfectly. They juuuust fit together in the cabinets underneath. He's putting a vent in the back of the cabinets just for this purpose. My question is: I see everyone putting a 10" square hole for venting in the top of the Dubia bins. My crickets needed a LOT mroe ventilation than that, but I assume this is because Dubia like it a bit more humid. Will I need to increase the size of this vent if I'm housing them underneath the viv in the cabinets or is this worrying over nothing, and the vent in the back of the cabinets will be enough to make it work? I'll be installing heat tape in the floor of the cabinets with a rheostat to dial in the temps once they're under there.
Regarding CHE's.
I'm using three "fixtures" in the tank. I might not NEED all three, but I put built this thing "overdone" so I didn't have to do a lot of work to upgrade. I know there's always a lot of tinkering in any viv to get it just right, so I tried to account for any possibilities beforehand. There's a flourescent for the reptisun 10.0 tube, and two incandescent fixtures. One for the spot, and one for a CHE. My goal, originally, was to get a bright light that didn't put off TOO much heat for the basking light so that it didn't bring the basking temps up to par. Then, I could use the CHE pointed at the same spot to dial in the temps where I needed them. That way, during the temperature changes in summer and winter, etc, I wouldn't have to change wattages of the basking light to make things right, I'd just adjust the dimmer on the CHE slightly to keep the basking temps spot on. Am I right on this?
Thanks for answers in advance, I know I always write a friggin novel of a question, but I like details lol. :study: