A few beardie questions...

[Lemonizer]

Please let me know if we're not allowed to write posts like this.
I just had a few questions and I didn't want to flood the forum with topics, so I decided to bundle it all into one.

1. Do your beardies eat dry food? A beardie owner from Russia told me her bd's ate dry/frozen food as youngsters. Greens will be provided, I think I might have allergies to crickets. Not sure but I might. And I won't just feed them dry crickets - I'm just asking to see if that alternative works.
2. What brand of supplements do you use?
3. How often do you feed your bd? Some websites say it's once and a lot, others say twice, others say three times. What worked best for you?
4. Are lizard collars even safe? I know a harness is best, but some people insisted a collar is better.
5. How much do you feed your dragon?
6. Can I keep a bearded dragon with a tortoise?
7. What is the maximum temperature for a beardie? Minimum? Just in case I want to take him outside.
8. Is a water bowl the best choice or does it create unnecessary humidity?
9. Did they ever interrupt your sleep? I plan on having the viv on my drawer across from me.
10. What is the biggest problem you've had with them? Whether it's health issues, behaviour, or anything else.

Thank you in advance!

 

[YoursTruly]

These are all great questions! I hope I can help, and I apologize if I am too wordy!

Please let me know if we're not allowed to write posts like this.
I just had a few questions and I didn't want to flood the forum with topics, so I decided to bundle it all into one.

1. Do your beardies eat dry food? A beardie owner from Russia told me her bd's ate dry/frozen food as youngsters. Greens will be provided, I think I might have allergies to crickets. Not sure but I might. And I won't just feed them dry crickets - I'm just asking to see if that alternative works.
Dried food is not appropriate for bearded dragons, especially young ones. Babies and juvenilles (0-12 months) need live food 2x - 3x a day, as much as they'll eat in a 10 minute sitting. If you are allergic to crickets, you may feed them silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, or dubia roaches, depending on where you live and the availability of these insects.

2. What brand of supplements do you use? I use ZooMed calcium with D3 3x a week and Rep-Cal multivitamin 3x a week. I alternate days with the two and use one day a week as an off day. This schedule works well for us.

3. How often do you feed your bd? Some websites say it's once and a lot, others say twice, others say three times. What worked best for you? See my answer to #1, but also greens (collard, mustard, turnip, or dandelion greens) should be offered daily. Other vegetables such as bell pepper, carrot, zucchini and squash can be included as well but are not as important as the greens.

4. Are lizard collars even safe? I know a harness is best, but some people insisted a collar is better. I wouldn't recommend them. Even harnesses should not be kept on 24/7.

5. How much do you feed your dragon? See my answers to #1 and #3.

6. Can I keep a bearded dragon with a tortoise? A bearded dragon should not even be in the same tank with another bearded dragon, and definitely not in with another animal. Fights can break out and this is usually how tails and toes go missing.

7. What is the maximum temperature for a beardie? Minimum? Just in case I want to take him outside. Basking spot temperature should be between 105F and 115F. Ambient warm end temperature should be around 90F, and cool end temperature should be between 75F and 85F. You can take them outside when it's 75F and up, though I wouldn't leave them out long unless it's sunny. They also need to be supervised VERY closely when outside.

8. Is a water bowl the best choice or does it create unnecessary humidity? I actually like having a water bowl in the winter to add humidity even though my girl doesn't drink from it, as it can get down to 10% humidity in my apartment. I'm in Michigan, by the way, and we have very dry winters but humid summers. Now that summer is approaching, that bowl is never filled. Just watch your hydrometer, which should be a digital one, and you can put in and take out the bowl as necessary.

9. Did they ever interrupt your sleep? I plan on having the viv on my drawer across from me. Not at all. There shouldn't be any lights on for them at night, and they sleep like the dead LOL. I remember when I first got my girl and I saw her sleeping, I thought she'd died! INSTANT HEART ATTACK!!!

10. What is the biggest problem you've had with them? Whether it's health issues, behaviour, or anything else. Beardies are very hardy creatures, and have a very sweet demeanour. I would say there are two main health issues that can occur, though. My girl came to us with atadenovirus, which affects the immune and digestive systems. She BARELY made it through her first few months, and we have had to spend a lot on medications, supplements, and vet visits. Just make sure you don't get a dragon from a chain pet store, and that you get one from a reputable breeder. The other issue that can occur is metabolic bone disease, which is caused by improper UV lighting and not enough calcium. The recommended UV lights are the Reptisun 10.0 T5 high output tube bulb (mounted outside the tank) or a Reptisun 10.0 T8 tube bulb (mounted inside the tank).

Thank you in advance!

 

[Lemonizer]

Thank you!
Also, can they eat flightless fruit flies? I'm just curious.

 

[YoursTruly]

I've never heard of that as a feeder. It may not provide sufficient nutrients.

 

[Lemonizer]

I've never heard of that as a feeder. It may not provide sufficient nutrients.

Okay.

I'm currently looking for beardies on CS, and there are some that come with enclosures, but I see some that are kept with sand. Should I risk?

 

[JessW]

Thank you!
Also, can they eat flightless fruit flies? I'm just curious.

These are pretty common feeders for much smaller things (dart frogs, etc), so you could, but you'd have to feed a ridiculous amount to fill your beardie up!

 

[Lemonizer]

Thank you!
Also, can they eat flightless fruit flies? I'm just curious.

These are pretty common feeders for much smaller things (dart frogs, etc), so you could, but you'd have to feed a ridiculous amount to fill your beardie up!

Can they have them as a snack sometimes?

 

[JessW]

I'm sure it'd be fine. Depending on how big your dragon is, though, he may not even be interested in them if they're too small

 

[YoursTruly]

Exactly. My girl started turning her nose up
At medium crickets once she got big enough. They don't consider it worth spending the energy.

 

[kingofnobbys]

These are all great questions! I hope I can help, and I apologize if I am too wordy!

Please let me know if we're not allowed to write posts like this.
I just had a few questions and I didn't want to flood the forum with topics, so I decided to bundle it all into one.

1. Do your beardies eat dry food? A beardie owner from Russia told me her bd's ate dry/frozen food as youngsters. Greens will be provided, I think I might have allergies to crickets. Not sure but I might. And I won't just feed them dry crickets - I'm just asking to see if that alternative works.
Dried food is not appropriate for bearded dragons, especially young ones. Babies and juvenilles (0-12 months) need live food 2x - 3x a day, as much as they'll eat in a 10 minute sitting. If you are allergic to crickets, you may feed them silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, or dubia roaches, depending on where you live and the availability of these insects.

2. What brand of supplements do you use? I use ZooMed calcium with D3 3x a week and Rep-Cal multivitamin 3x a week. I alternate days with the two and use one day a week as an off day. This schedule works well for us.

<<< be careful with D3 enriched calcium , if overused this can lead to renal failure and death
see http://reptileapartment.com/calcium-reptiles-what-do-we-really-know/ . Personally I only use calcium powder , not Calcium enriched with synthetic VitD3 . My reasoning is given sufficient UVB and dietary calcium , it is not necessary to give D3 orally, and it's my belief that synthetic vitD3 will be of little use to bearded dragon and simply excreted as it's in the wrong form.

3. How often do you feed your bd? Some websites say it's once and a lot, others say twice, others say three times. What worked best for you? See my answer to #1, but also greens (collard, mustard, turnip, or dandelion greens) should be offered daily. Other vegetables such as bell pepper, carrot, zucchini and squash can be included as well but are not as important as the greens.

4. Are lizard collars even safe? I know a harness is best, but some people insisted a collar is better. I wouldn't recommend them. Even harnesses should not be kept on 24/7.

5. How much do you feed your dragon? See my answers to #1 and #3.

6. Can I keep a bearded dragon with a tortoise? A bearded dragon should not even be in the same tank with another bearded dragon, and definitely not in with another animal. Fights can break out and this is usually how tails and toes go missing.

 

[kingofnobbys]

7. What is the maximum temperature for a beardie? Minimum? Just in case I want to take him outside. Basking spot temperature should be between 105F and 115F. [/colour]

BAD ADVISE , 115F is in the lethal temperature range for bearded dragons
from Tosney http://www.bio.miami.edu/tosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Supplements-35326

The gradient should range from the mid 70's or low 80's on the cool side to the mid 80's on the warm side, with a basking area ranging from 95-105. Don't guess the temperature; buy a thermometer. Adjust the wattage of the bulb and height of the basking site to get the correct temperature. DON'T COOK YOUR DRAGON

refer
http://www.bio.miami.edu/tosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Supplements-35326

See studies of wild bearded dragons behaviours cited here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516

where expert zoologists/herpetologists have monitored the behaviours of reptiles in their natural range and assessed their responses when exposed to extremes of temperature (high and low ends) beyond 44oCelsius (110F) is a temperature that bearded dragons suffer stress and attempt to excape frantically (prolonged exposure leads to heatstroke which can kill a reptile) , and 45oCelsius (115F) is the low end of the lethal temperature range !!!
I often see people advising 110F-115F for the basking spot for a bearded dragon, this is simply put bad advise with no scientific basis or supporting evidence (I don't know where this idea originated as I even see expert keepers and breeders suggesting this as being the suitable temperature for the basking spot (even in Australia (where I live)).
PLEASE no warmer than 105F (41oCelsius) for your basking spot temperature.

 

[Taterbug]

These are all great questions! I hope I can help, and I apologize if I am too wordy!

Please let me know if we're not allowed to write posts like this.
I just had a few questions and I didn't want to flood the forum with topics, so I decided to bundle it all into one.

1. Do your beardies eat dry food? A beardie owner from Russia told me her bd's ate dry/frozen food as youngsters. Greens will be provided, I think I might have allergies to crickets. Not sure but I might. And I won't just feed them dry crickets - I'm just asking to see if that alternative works.
Dried food is not appropriate for bearded dragons, especially young ones. Babies and juvenilles (0-12 months) need live food 2x - 3x a day, as much as they'll eat in a 10 minute sitting. If you are allergic to crickets, you may feed them silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, or dubia roaches, depending on where you live and the availability of these insects.

For animals that rely a lot on food for hydration dry food can lead to dehydration, even if they are drinking water. There are some gel foods (Repashy has a few that are suitable for dragons) but live food is best.

2. What brand of supplements do you use? I use ZooMed calcium with D3 3x a week and Rep-Cal multivitamin 3x a week. I alternate days with the two and use one day a week as an off day. This schedule works well for us.
<<< be careful with D3 enriched calcium , if overused this can lead to renal failure and death
see http://reptileapartment.com/calcium-reptiles-what-do-we-really-know/ . Personally I only use calcium powder , not Calcium enriched with synthetic VitD3 . My reasoning is given sufficient UVB and dietary calcium , it is not necessary to give D3 orally, and it's my belief that synthetic vitD3 will be of little use to bearded dragon and simply excreted as it's in the wrong form.

I use repashy, I'd recommend Calcium+ Lo-D paired with T5 lights. Synthetic sources are not necissarily different from natural ones metabolically but the body does control natural D3 by processes in the skin, it cannot control dietary D3. There is inconclusive information about the availability of D3 from food as well. All the vets I have spoken too recommend some D3 (either a day or two a week or a low dose) as it's much more common to see defficency than overuse. I like repashy also because it has both preformed vitamin a (retenol) and proformed (beta carotene).

3. How often do you feed your bd? Some websites say it's once and a lot, others say twice, others say three times. What worked best for you? See my answer to #1, but also greens (collard, mustard, turnip, or dandelion greens) should be offered daily. Other vegetables such as bell pepper, carrot, zucchini and squash can be included as well but are not as important as the greens.

pepper is an adult he gets salad daily and bugs about once per week (several) or a couple per day. As a little one he got about 1/4cup of small roaches to free feed from. Dragons in the wild would probably spend most of their time either waiting for food to come by (ambush) or seeking out termite mounds to feed from.

4. Are lizard collars even safe? I know a harness is best, but some people insisted a collar is better. I wouldn't recommend them. Even harnesses should not be kept on 24/7.

I like hip harnesses for outside. They don't interfere with breathing like some harnesses seem too. Collars are safe for a photo shoot or something but not as a leash and not as an all the time accessory. They are a strangulation or entanglement hazard.

5. How much do you feed your dragon? See my answers to #1 and #3.

6. Can I keep a bearded dragon with a tortoise? A bearded dragon should not even be in the same tank with another bearded dragon, and definitely not in with another animal. Fights can break out and this is usually how tails and toes go missing.

no. It's very difficult to make habitats that are adequate for difference species.

7. What is the maximum temperature for a beardie? Minimum? Just in case I want to take him outside. Basking spot temperature should be between 105F and 115F. Ambient warm end temperature should be around 90F, and cool end temperature should be between 75F and 85F. You can take them outside when it's 75F and up, though I wouldn't leave them out long unless it's sunny. They also need to be supervised VERY closely when outside.

Outside they will be find in most temps that you will be comfortable with (70-90 works for me, on sunny days Pepper is able to warm up a lot even if the air is a bit cool) and should be allowed to choose if they want a hot surface or not, as well as to hide in some shade. Glass and plastic tubs outside are very dangerous.

8. Is a water bowl the best choice or does it create unnecessary humidity? I actually like having a water bowl in the winter to add humidity even though my girl doesn't drink from it, as it can get down to 10% humidity in my apartment. I'm in Michigan, by the way, and we have very dry winters but humid summers. Now that summer is approaching, that bowl is never filled. Just watch your hydrometer, which should be a digital one, and you can put in and take out the bowl as necessary.

Please offer a water dish. Just because you may not see it used doesn't mean it never is or never would be. A small dish in an ventilated cage won't be harmful. Dehydration however can be lethal.

9. Did they ever interrupt your sleep? I plan on having the viv on my drawer across from me. Not at all. There shouldn't be any lights on for them at night, and they sleep like the dead LOL. I remember when I first got my girl and I saw her sleeping, I thought she'd died! INSTANT HEART ATTACK!!!

They are a lot like birds. Lights out and the lizard is out.

10. What is the biggest problem you've had with them? Whether it's health issues, behaviour, or anything else. Beardies are very hardy creatures, and have a very sweet demeanour. I would say there are two main health issues that can occur, though. My girl came to us with atadenovirus, which affects the immune and digestive systems. She BARELY made it through her first few months, and we have had to spend a lot on medications, supplements, and vet visits. Just make sure you don't get a dragon from a chain pet store, and that you get one from a reputable breeder. The other issue that can occur is metabolic bone disease, which is caused by improper UV lighting and not enough calcium. The recommended UV lights are the Reptisun 10.0 T5 high output tube bulb (mounted outside the tank) or a Reptisun 10.0 T8 tube bulb (mounted inside the tank).

biggest problem was early stages of fatty liver that resulted in probably $500+ in vet bills (X-rays, blood work 3x, medication, office visits). Care wise what started as ~$150 for a DIY cage has ended up closer to $800 after I've replaced and upgraded everything. Pepper was just way to active for his smaller cage and it spiraled out from there (bigger cage = more lights). Aside from expenses they are great hardy lizards and with good care are pretty durable compared to others.

 

[Taterbug]

7. What is the maximum temperature for a beardie? Minimum? Just in case I want to take him outside. Basking spot temperature should be between 105F and 115F. [/colour]

BAD ADVISE , 115F is in the lethal temperature range for bearded dragons
from Tosney http://www.bio.miami.edu/tosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Supplements-35326

The gradient should range from the mid 70's or low 80's on the cool side to the mid 80's on the warm side, with a basking area ranging from 95-105. Don't guess the temperature; buy a thermometer. Adjust the wattage of the bulb and height of the basking site to get the correct temperature. DON'T COOK YOUR DRAGON

refer
http://www.bio.miami.edu/tosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Supplements-35326

See studies of wild bearded dragons behaviours cited here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516

where expert zoologists/herpetologists have monitored the behaviours of reptiles in their natural range and assessed their responses when exposed to extremes of temperature (high and low ends) beyond 44oCelsius (110F) is a temperature that bearded dragons suffer stress and attempt to excape frantically (prolonged exposure leads to heatstroke which can kill a reptile) , and 45oCelsius (115F) is the low end of the lethal temperature range !!!
I often see people advising 110F-115F for the basking spot for a bearded dragon, this is simply put bad advise with no scientific basis or supporting evidence (I don't know where this idea originated as I even see expert keepers and breeders suggesting this as being the suitable temperature for the basking spot (even in Australia (where I live)).
PLEASE no warmer than 105F (41oCelsius) for your basking spot temperature.

Ambient and surface temps are two different beasts entirely. I can go outside on a cool day (60F) here in the Midwest of the USA and measure rocks at 130+F. I would be shocked if lizards in Australia never sit on a surface warmer than 105F. I'll have to read the linked studies later but the whole mechanism of thermoregulation is to efficiently control the body temp to a very narrow range. Yeah, trap a lizard in a 115F box that they can't escape and you'll kill it no doubt. Give a lizard the option to use a hot basking surface AS WELL AS cooler ones and a much cooler area as the gradient as you'll probably find they spend less time basking and more time active. Part of that may be that offering a really good gradient like that requires a bigger cage but I digress. Form typical small setups like a 40 breeder 105 is safer since the cage is already really small, only one option can realisticly be offered. Still. Prolonged all day basking is not actually a healthy or natural state for them.

Many experienced keepers who offer hot basking sites have taken experiences from monitor keeping which has seen a lot of health and behavior improvement once hotter basking temps were used.

I've got a platform in my cage that the surface temp gets about 115-120 and Pepper pancakes out on it for his morning charge. His basking tree in the sunroom gets about 120-130 in the middle and he will pancake out there after wandering until he is warm enough and then scoots to the side where it is cooler. Air temps are 60-90 typically. I don't recommend this high if temps without plenty of space not to be exposed but my guy will absolutely willingly seek out the hot spot when he needs it and retreat when he is warm enough.

 

[Lemonizer]

Thank you all! I live in AZ where in July it can get up to 45°C during the day, so I'm going to keep him inside at that time.