2 Beardies not growing!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Please forgive me if this is in the wrong forum. I have 2 beardies in the same cage that are several months old and have not grown at ALL and I have a few questions.. They are 6 inches from head to tail, with their tail being the majority of the length. They are not lethargic, but almost unnaturally tame.

Age: At least at least 8 months old
With me since: October or November of 2009
Size: 3 inch body, 3 inch tail
Sex: 2 Females
Tank: 10 Gal
Substrate: The stuff you put in hot water and it expands.
UVB: I used to, but after literally 6 different bulbs and fixtures broke I gave up and put them where they would get full sun.
Basking: One of those basking bulbs from Petco
Temps: 85 basking/Mid 70s cool
Temp gauge: Digital with probe.
Basking location: On top of their basking log, about 5 inches from the bulb itself.
Heat rock/pad: No
Feeding: Calcium Dusted crickets 3x week, as many as they can eat. Kale throughout day. Doesn't eat any other greens/fruit
Feeding Schedule: Veges all day, Calcium dusted crickets 3x a week, at night
Gutload: I throw potato, carrots, and cucumber in the cricket box.
Supplements: Pure calcium, generic reptile brand. Each feeding.
Bowel movements: Looks normal to me...However loves to go in warm water.
Bathing: I let them play in the sink with neutral-warm water about once a week for 20 minutes.
Misting/Water: I mist once a day. Water bowl not offered.
Tankmate: Sisters of the same clutch, same size.

What am I doing wrong?
Is it still possible for them to grow to normal size if I fix the issue?
Will they die?
 

Nasubi77

Sub-Adult Member
Ohh, sweetheart, you need to do a MAJOR overhaul of literally everything, I'm sorry to say. And it will take an investment, so right off the bat I want to say, think about the financial implications, and be able to honestly ask yourself if you can afford to do all of what you need to do, and if the answer is "no," please adopt one or both of them out to an experienced keeper so they can get help right away.

Okay, I just wanted to say that first. I will address the husbandry issues in the next post (if someone doesn't beat me to it...)
 

MatthewLee

Member
Original Poster
Money is not an issue, I just want them to be healthy. I have been caught up in my career taking off and I feel horrible. My girlfriend and I like to go to a reptile swap in Wheaton, IL and were told numerous "shortcuts" that the breeders use, so i thought they were acceptable. At the time I thought breeders were more reliable than internet information....I should have known better.

Some things he said:
"All they need the UV bulb for is because typically they don't get enough sun, 7 minutes of sunlight is better than 24 hours of an artificial bulb, so as long as you put them by a window they will be alright."
"Particle substrate is okay, beardies don't miss their food and it's cheaper, easier, and looks nicer."
"As long as they are both females from the same clutch they will get along if they grow up together."
"Waxworms are fatty, mealworms and superworms can eat through their stomach and are all shell."

Please correct my assumptions, and my burning question is Can they still grow to their full(or almost) potential if I fix everything?
 

Nasubi77

Sub-Adult Member
MatthewLee":d5t2f1pt said:
Please forgive me if this is in the wrong forum. I have 2 beardies in the same cage that are several months old and have not grown at ALL and I have a few questions.. They are 6 inches from head to tail, with their tail being the majority of the length. They are not lethargic, but almost unnaturally tame.

Age: At least at least 8 months old
With me since: October or November of 2009
Size: 3 inch body, 3 inch tail
Sex: 2 Females

A beardie with proper care can easily be over a foot long at this age, so right away, it is obvious that something is not being done right.

Tank: 10 Gal

First issue: They need to be separated. A 10 gallon tank is too small for one, much less two. And no matter how big the tank is, they are not meant to live together. They are solitary in the wild, and another beardie in the enclosure is an intruder. There will be dominance/submission issues which can result in - best case scenario - stress (which then can lead to illnesses and other issues). Or worst case scenario - fighting, resulting in severe injuries or death. You can usually score a decent tank on Craigslist for minimal cost or sometimes free if you're lucky. Since they are stunted, you don't really need a huge tank if you can't find one right away, but at least a 20g or bigger (per dragon), keeping in mind that you would need to upgrade when they start growing.

Substrate: The stuff you put in hot water and it expands.
Please replace with paper towels. Cheap and easy. They are desert animals and like dry air, and dry ground. Any substrate with particles in not really recommended because of a risk of impaction, so stick with something solid, like repticarpet or tiles. But for now, paper towels will be great.

UVB: I used to, but after literally 6 different bulbs and fixtures broke I gave up and put them where they would get full sun.
UVB is extremely important to their overall health. Glass and plastic filter UVB rays so if you're putting them in a window thinking they are getting UVB, you are incorrect. If you are actually taking them outside, at least that is something, but they need several hours of UVB a day to stay healthy, so a quality bulb is very important. The most affordable one for you right now would be a ReptiSUN 10.0 fluorescent tube (not the compact coil!). If you order it online, it costs about $20 (+ shipping, but still cheaper than box stores). What kind were you using before that kept breaking? We might can give you an idea of how to position it or what kind of fixtures to get to keep that from happening. If you don't already have a fluorescent fixture, you can pick it up at Lowes or Wal Mart for less than $20. You want one long enough to cover, preferably the entire length of the tank, but at least 2/3 of it. Be sure to get the same length bulb and fixture!

Basking: One of those basking bulbs from Petco
Temps: 85 basking/Mid 70s cool
Temp gauge: Digital with probe.
Basking location: On top of their basking log, about 5 inches from the bulb itself.
The bulb should be fine..what wattage is it? At 5 inches it should be way hotter than 85. You want to aim for a basking temp of 100-110, so buy a higher wattage bulb if you need to. You can use a regular household bulb, or halogen flood light. Be sure your fixture is rated for high wattage. Lowes and Wal Mart both have metal dome work lights that work great to hold basking bulbs for around $10-12. Sounds like your thermometer is good. Place the probe directly on the basking spot for the basking temp. The cool side is fine, but at the very minimum you would want. 78-82 is preferred.

Feeding: Calcium Dusted crickets 3x week, as many as they can eat. Kale throughout day. Doesn't eat any other greens/fruit
Feeding Schedule: Veges all day, Calcium dusted crickets 3x a week, at night
Gutload: I throw potato, carrots, and cucumber in the cricket box.
Supplements: Pure calcium, generic reptile brand. Each feeding.
They need crickets every day. How big are the crix? They should not be any bigger than the space between your dragons' eyes, so you should be using tiny ones. The guideline for babies is that they would eat 2-3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 10 minutes. The guideline for and 8 month old is 1-2 times a day, as many as they can eat. Since yours are not used to eating that much, I would not give them that much at this point, but do feed them crix once a day, dusted with the calcium at at least 5x a week. Here is a list of which veggies are good and which aren't.
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
Kale is fine, but try to incorporate some other veggies, too. I like to shred yellow squash. It looks like worms so they go right after it. Also, feed them early enough to allow at least 2 hours of basking time before lights out.

Bowel movements: Looks normal to me...However loves to go in warm water.
Bathing: I let them play in the sink with neutral-warm water about once a week for 20 minutes.
Misting/Water: I mist once a day. Water bowl not offered.
Good that you bathe them. The misting isn't really necessary, especially if they're getting baths.

How often do they poo? Do you see undigested bug parts in the poo? Their temps are not high enough for proper digestion, so there may be some impaction if they are not going every day.

Tankmate: Sisters of the same clutch, same size.
As stated, it is important to separate them for a variety of reasons.

What am I doing wrong?
Is it still possible for them to grow to normal size if I fix the issue?
Will they die?

They will probably always be a little small, but you can certainly put some weight and growth on them if you do a lot of changes and see that they get what they need from now on. Their health is definitely in question right now, so I can't really so, "They'll be fine, no worries!" because there are worries. Their size is very worrisome for their age. But, there have been some in way worse shape make in through, so there is certainly hope. I wish you the best of luck and please continue to read this forum and to ask whatever questions you need to, no matter how insignificant it seems.

Wish you enough,
Susan
 

MatthewLee

Member
Original Poster
Update: I changed their enclosure that day and my what a difference. They are jumping and are more alert than ever! However I still have them housed together for now. I have run out of space.

Thank you for your help!

I hope they regain some of their growth potential.
 

Nasubi77

Sub-Adult Member
MatthewLee":2x0xmiz6 said:
Update: I changed their enclosure that day and my what a difference. They are jumping and are more alert than ever! However I still have them housed together for now. I have run out of space.

Thank you for your help!

I hope they regain some of their growth potential.


That's great, but please try to find a way to separate. Get a shelf where you can stack the tanks vertically to create more room.

If you must leave them together (and I really would not advise it, especially for someone new to the hobby) they must be in a huge tank, with separate basking spots, separate hides, and feed them separately outside the tank. Always be diligent about observing their behavior and be ready to separate them at the first sign of trouble. Climbing on top of each other to bask or sleeping on top of each other may be cute, but it is actually a sign of dominance.

Best of luck!
 

MatthewLee

Member
Original Poster
Nasubi77":32tdvzwh said:
MatthewLee":32tdvzwh said:
Update: I changed their enclosure that day and my what a difference. They are jumping and are more alert than ever! However I still have them housed together for now. I have run out of space.

Thank you for your help!

I hope they regain some of their growth potential.


That's great, but please try to find a way to separate. Get a shelf where you can stack the tanks vertically to create more room.

If you must leave them together (and I really would not advise it, especially for someone new to the hobby) they must be in a huge tank, with separate basking spots, separate hides, and feed them separately outside the tank. Always be diligent about observing their behavior and be ready to separate them at the first sign of trouble. Climbing on top of each other to bask or sleeping on top of each other may be cute, but it is actually a sign of dominance.

Best of luck!

Sleeping on top of each other and basking is a dominance thing? Whoops. I thought it was just them being cute and wanting to be together. Will plexiglass work?
 

Nasubi77

Sub-Adult Member
How big is your tank? Before, you said you had a 10g, but you didn't say what size you upgraded to. Keep in mind that they each need a 100 degree basking spot and an 80 degree cool side, so you'd need a pretty big tank to divide it to keep both of them in. You could make that work in a huge tank.

Plexi would work, but it's best if they don't see each other, so line the plexi with something.

Don't know if you've seen the plans to build your own enclosure, but it's pretty simple even for someone without woodworking experience. AND, they are stackable... :wink:
http://www.freewebs.com/crossfireenclosures/
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Latest resources

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

Go88 là một trong những nhà cái cá cược trực tuyến hàng đầu với danh tiếng vững chắc trong cộng đồng người chơi.
Website: https://https://appgo88.link/
Tag: #appgo88link #go88link #Game_Go88 #Game_bài_Go88 #Cổng_game_Go88 #Tài_xỉu_Go88 #Nạp_tiền_Go88 #Rút_tiền_Go88 #play_Go88
Website:
https://smartcity.bandung.go.id/member/bsc3090527795d
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
is tape safe for fixing something in my leopard geckos hide?
Day 3 of brumation. It's a struggle. I really miss my little guy. 😔
Mirage entered brumation yesterday, I'm gonna miss hanging out with my little guy.

Forum statistics

Threads
156,220
Messages
1,259,113
Members
76,140
Latest member
Jesper
Top Bottom