Search results

Have you checked out Deer Fern Farms? One of the go to guys for Uros. Some good info on the site: http://www.deerfernfarms.com/

I've been using the Zoo Med tall mini domes lately. They seem well-made. I won't use Fluker's products after their reptile farming fiasco. Still boycotting them.

A healthy dragon may not be at a large risk of impaction, but why keep suggesting using particulate substrates to newer keepers? I find it irresponsible. You can't know that these people have the rest of their husbandry perfectly honed, so the risk of the dragon having any one of a number of...

They've been around quite a while, and as far as I know have a solid reputation. I've never bought from them, though, so can't vouch for them. But remember, if your dragon gets to be forty stories high, they do have "atomic" in their name, so you have nobody to blame but yourself. :mrgreen:

It can be hard to tell from just size. If it's been fed properly, it's probably around four to six weeks old. If not, it could be older. Pretty doubtful it's six months unless they've been seriously starving it. Probably just misspoke.

I think blue tongues may be even easier than beardies. Blue tongue keepers seem to love them to death, and sing their praises in regards to personality and intelligence. If only I could convince the wife that they don't look too much like snakes . . . Too bad about the shipping restriction...

I've bought beardies as babies of varying ages, bred them and raised them from the egg up, and rescued one adult dragon. That two year old rescue was kept in an opaque Rubbermaid tub and paranoid and skittish as all get out when we took him in. He was a biter. After we tamed him down and...

Rex looks similar to (but a bit lighter than) my Cho. She's a hypo x snow cross from the Dachius. I really don't know the genetics of either of those. I think that one is genetic and one is simply selectively bred. Whatever he is, he's a cute little guy.

If they haven't actually been in a physical altercation so far, I doubt they will get into one while you cage shop. The most likely thing you'll see is one laying on top of the other to get the better basking spot, or eating more than its share of food. I think you've said that they switch who's...

I suggest offering a good sized Rubbermaid / Sterilite style box filled with the sand/soil if you want your dragon to be able to dig. It can be used as a lay box if you have girl, too. Remember, you need to change loose substrates every 3 months to prevent build up of harmful bacteria. That's...

I'm also in the housing separately camp. Also: quarantine new arrivals.

As long as the smaller dragon isn't more than 17 or 18 inches overall length, the 48x13 should be OK, if not ideal. Edit: Also, they've been living in that cage for five years, so I don't think a month or three is going to make a huge difference either way.

Just to add: Your 5-6 month old would merrily eat another beardie if there's enough size difference. So, if it's truly a baby, don't let the big one near it until it's a juvie size. You should also quarantine any new animal brought into the house. Keep them separated by distance, don't share...

Well, if he's active and alert, sheds well, food goes in one end and out the other on a regular basis, and he gets within useful range of the UVB light on a regular basis, he'll probably be fine. That said, I'd suggest getting him something bigger to climb on, maybe some grape vines, or one of...

You can also usually pick up digital thermometers in Wal Mart for about six or seven bucks. They have little gray ones that have a probe. They're basically the same thing the reptile supply companies are now selling as an option for reptiles. Regarding humidity: In most areas, normal household...

Also, consider picking up an IR temp gun to check temps. The dial type thermometers are notoriously unreliable. You can get one for $30 from the link below. (I have the old PE1, which was the TG1's predecessor, and it's been running fine for over ten years.) http://tempgun.com/

First, I'll state that except for one breeding pair and one other odd case, I've always kept all of my dragons separately. While they have a lot of social behaviors and can sometimes bond with one another to an extent, I think they do better caged separately, as they simply can't get the same...

He should be fine with just salad for two days. Edited to add: You might try Rep Cal pellets as a back up. Many dragons that won't try other pelleted food will take them. You should always feed them moistened, and at first may need to try moistening them with some apple juice (pure, nothing...

Thanks. I should have been more specific. I'm a bit out of it today. I meant the dragon itself, to let it drink off its head or side of the enclosure, etc. Then dry it up after.

Misting gives them an opportunity to drink. Drinking hydrates them. Also mentioned bathing. You should be doing both for babies.