Leopard gecko heating

Hello guys,

I have a leopard gecko in a 10g tank and I have heard many things about their light/heat needs and wants. i am so confused. Some people say that they don't need white light, some say they don't want it and some say they need it for 12 hours a day. Also, for the heat, some say they need hot habitats and some that they do ok without much heating. So I need your advice!

Right now, I have just one bulb on the habitat. A 50W black light heat 24/7. The thing is that the temperature goes up and down very easily due to the weird weather in toronto and I don't know what I should do.

More info on the habitat:

- substrate: reptile carpet
- one rock/hiding cave on the left (the one that has like a labyrinth inside.
- one bark on the right that serves as a hiding spot too with moss. both the wood and rock are at around 6" tall (half the tank's height)

Thanks in advance, I will post more info as the conversation goes on

Hello,
I don't have a leo, but am planning to get one in the next year or so. I've found this forum helpful http://geckoforums.net/f122-leopard-gecko-forum.html
From what I understand, leos tend to get insecure with bright white light.
Some people like to couple a UTH with a low wattage colored bulb, and have the UTH on a thermostate so the temperature doesn't get too warm. They need a ground hot spot of around 90F to digest their food, which a UTH by itself could achieve, but from what I've heard they do not heat the air temp enough.

Anyways, hopefully any leo keepers will chime in with their methods, but if you haven't already, check out the forum. I've found it useful.

Why hello there. Wow! This is the most active this section has been in a long dang time. I just got my Leo one week ago :love5: From what I understand, they need under the tank heat. A UTH as they need belly heat to digest. The need the surface temp to be in between 89 and 95 degrees. One hide on the warm side, one on the cool side and a humid hide.

(My set-up)

(the gems are just for show and have been removed)
I'm gonna double check all the temps with a friend of mine, but geckoforums.net is a great place to find info :wink:

Morphmom is right. They cannot digest their food without belly heat, there is really no need for over head lighting. The surface temps should be between 89-95 for proper digestion. The overhead heating is really not needed.

Well, let's face it. In the desert there is no hearing pad and all the heat comes from above. I cannot and will not use an undertank heating pad for several reasons too. Anyway, most people i know irl do not use them either.

Ok, if you disagree, then check out geckoforums.net and cross reference. That way you get many different opinions from some very experienced people :wink:

morphmom":2rolix81 said:

Ok, if you disagree, then check out geckoforums.net and cross reference. That way you get many different opinions from some very experianced people :wink:

Click to expand...

I am getting as much info as i can. The same way that i changed my bulbs in my dragon's tank to prevent damage, for the same reason i am avoiding UTH and heating rocks!

Heating rocks are not a good idea for any reptile, however a UTH can be very easily controlled by a $10 lamp dimmer.

morphmom":2k3lw50e said:

Heating rocks are not a good idea for any reptile, however a UTH can be very easily controlled by a $10 lamp dimmer.

Click to expand...

I know 5 people irl with geckos. 4 of them were using UTH. 3 of them saw the pads carching on fire and/or smoking like crazy! Also, the tank i have is on a wooden desk and there is no space to raise it. I just cannot afford to play with these things!

UTH's are used by the majority of people with Leo's, most of which keep their viv's on wooden surfaces. A lamp dimmer and a good thermometer is a very reliable safty for them. Zoo Med also makes a UTH that comes with little feet so the side of the tank is slightly elevated allowing excess heat to escape.
-You will be able to find information contrary to the idea of a UTH. Just like you will find information stating the sand is the best substrate for BD's (which, very few of us here believe)
But if your looking for the most common ways to set up your viv, then it is likely a UTH will be repeatedly recommended for you.

morphmom":bd65bjew said:

UTH's are used by the majority of people with Leo's, most of which keep their viv's on wooden surfaces. A lamp dimmer and a good thermometer is a very reliable safty for them. Zoo Med also makes a UTH that comes with little feet so the side of the tank is slightly elevated allowing excess heat to escape.
-You will be able to find information contrary to the idea of a UTH. Just like you will find information stating the sand is the best substrate for BD's (which, very few of us here believe)
But if your looking for the most common ways to set up your viv, then it is likely a UTH will be repeatedly recommended for you.

Click to expand...

Yes i know that the pulse in here is "kill those who use sand and lights"! I just like to do a research always! My problem is the stable 80-85f temp i have. In the next months it WILL rise due to outside temperatures. Starting september i will go for some changes probably

Another way to provide heat would be to use a CHE. That way there's no light in the viv. Still not something I would recommend though. Nocturnal animals heat their body's with the heat from their environment after the sun goes down. There just isn't overhead heat at night time.

All the big breeders tend to use heat tape. It's important to use a thermostat with it. Thermostats will keep heat tape or a UTH from overheating. If you're using bulbs it's still important to have control on it.

I have used UTHs for six years with my snakes and lizards, on everything from wooden stands to wooden floors, with no problems. Normal running temps of about 90 will not cause anything to smoke or catch on fire; our bodies are hotter than that and we don’t smoke or make wood catch on fire from holding it.

UTH heat is the way to go. Leos are nocturnal, they would not be basking under bright sun but on sun-warmed rocks after dark.

But if you choose to use bulbs be sure to provide humid hide because heat lamps take all the moisture out and geckos have a hard time shedding without humidity. If their tiny toes get stuck shed, it is hard to get it off and it can cut off circulation and cause them to lose toes

Whatever heat you use do use controls on it.

Five years of using UTH's (and one of those I have had all 5 years) with dimmers, and no fires. You cannot properly supply the belly heat that they require withput an UTH or heat tape. The reason that UTH have issues is because they do not have proper air flow. You have to elevate the tank a little to provide this air flow or they will overheat. Also if you don't elevate them it pinches the cord causing a fire risk. If you use the PROPERLY, you won't have proplems.

Monk21":2dp7u4su said:

Hello guys,

I have a leopard gecko in a 10g tank and I have heard many things about their light/heat needs and wants. i am so confused. Some people say that they don't need white light, some say they don't want it and some say they need it for 12 hours a day. Also, for the heat, some say they need hot habitats and some that they do ok without much heating. So I need your advice!

Right now, I have just one bulb on the habitat. A 50W black light heat 24/7. The thing is that the temperature goes up and down very easily due to the weird weather in toronto and I don't know what I should do.

More info on the habitat:

- substrate: reptile carpet
- one rock/hiding cave on the left (the one that has like a labyrinth inside.
- one bark on the right that serves as a hiding spot too with moss. both the wood and rock are at around 6" tall (half the tank's height)

Thanks in advance, I will post more info as the conversation goes on

Click to expand...

ok ive had my leopard gecko over a year and ive never used a light in her viv and she does just fine. i only use a heatmat to keep her warm. her hot side is usually around 85-90 and her cool side is normally around 75. if its too cold in my house her cool side temp can sometimes drop to only 68

and rememeber leopard geckos absorb heat through their belly, not their back like say a bearded dragon would.