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[QUOTE="Hazelthebeardeddragon, post: 2030439, member: 118185"] I thought I’d post some things that I’ve done research on and I think will help a new beardie owner. [I][B]Generally about beardies[/B][/I] -life span in captivity ranges but 10 years is average -they range from 14-24 inches long -they reach sexual maturity at 8-12 months -you can find beardies in most places (pet stores, breeders, rescue, Craigslist, etc. [B]this doesn’t mean all these places are good[/B]) -Care is NOT cheap -try to avoid silk back morphs as they can have multiple health problems -no cohabitation at all [B][I]Handling/socialization [/I][/B] -first 2 weeks try not to interfere with enclosure/them unless needed -for bonding feed with fingers or tongs -leave hand in enclosure or talk to them so they get use to use -try to get a front opening enclosure so that they see you at their level -DO NOT pick them up but their legs,tail, or head, instead DO scoop them and support their belly and base of tail [B][I]Daily activity [/I][/B] -sleep at night and awake during day (get them on a schedule) -keep lights on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours so for example 9AM-9PM lights are on and 9PM-9AM they are off -A timer is recommended [B][I]Yearly Activity [/I][/B] -They may brumate in winter -Brumation can last for a few days to a few months, it depends on your bearded dragon -Don’t wake your dragon up during brumation unless needed - In spring (breeding season) your females may start to dig or lay infertile (unless bred) eggs, your males may become agitated [B][I]Enclosure[/I][/B] -120 gallon minimum (40 gallon for a BABY) -zen habitats and custom built enclosures are good but there are many options -PVC and wooden are both good [B][I]Enrichment [/I][/B] -can be offered in the form of rocks, caves, wood, hammocks, ledges [B][I]Heating and lighting [/I][/B] -heat from above not below - need a basking light (NO COLOR) - 105-110 degrees ideally (your dragon may want it to be cooler or hotter) -Ambient temperature in the 80s -you need a gradient of temperatures -night time temperature can fall to high 60s but no less but also not as warm as during the day -ceramic heat projector is good if your house is cold - you need a thermostat [B][I]UVB [/I][/B] -NO coil uvb you NEED linear uvb -Uvb should cover 1/2 to 2/3 of the tank not the whole tank -Arcadia lighting guide will help with what bulb to get [B][I]Humidity [/I][/B] -need low humidity 30-40% -do NOT spray down cage everyday/at all or moisten soil everyday -less humidity: increase ventilation -more humidity: decrease ventilation [B][I]Substrate [/I][/B] -it’s up to you but make sure it works for you and your beardie -non loose substrate: tile, shelf liner, paper towel, newspaper (reptile carpet is not recommended) -loose substrate: joshes frogs, terra Sahara, Arcadia earth mix arid, topsoil and sand mix (don’t use calcium sand at all) [B][I]Diet[/I][/B] -Baby: 80% protein, 20% greens -Adult: 20% protein, 80% greens - Plants and insects are vital. Give greens daily to babies and adults - Babies: bugs everyday 1-3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 10-15 minutes -Adults: bugs 1-2 times a week - Dubia roaches, crickets, mealworms, super worms, BSFL, horn worms, silk worms, wax worms (dubias,crickets,silk worms, bsfl are staples) -Insects must be live -gut load your insects (you don’t have to do this to BSFL) gut loading is feeding your insects greens, carrots, bananas -don’t feed bugs you catch from outside -make sure you have a few places to get your insects so you always have a supply -find a variety of leafy greens -turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive (top with things like squash, bell peppers, etc.) [B][I]Supplementation [/I][/B] -dust insects in calcium every time you offer insects - if you have correct uvb lighting you won’t have to use calcium with d3 as often but you will need to use it sometimes -you need calcium with D3 and calcium without D3 as well as a multivitamin [B][I]Water intake [/I][/B] - most dragons won’t drink standing water - you need to give your beardie a bath and give water in their salad (make sure you treat this with something like reptisafe) [B][I]Cleanliness[/I][/B] -spot clean everyday, deep clean once a month or every other month (depending on if your dragon is messy or not) -give a bath once a week or less -bath needs to only be as high as their chest not high enough they can swim -you may have to trim your bearded dragons nails (only the slim tip at the top of the nail, google will show pictures) [B][I]Shedding [/I][/B] -will shed more while growing -will normally shed in pieces not all in one piece -don’t peal shed unless you notice it’s stuck shed [B][I]Poop [/I][/B] -should have large brown portion and a small white portion - dragons have their own poop schedule - poops stink -proper lighting helps with digestion which leads to pooping [I][B]Proper weight and size [/B][/I] -adult will be around 14-24 inches long but it could be stunted and might be smaller -will vary in weight 300-600 grams depending on size and body proportions -underweight dragon will have bones showing, sunken eyes, and small tail -overweight dragons will have thick neck, tail, and legs [B][I]Common health issues [/I][/B] -respiratory infection: gaping mouth, bubbles in spit, clicking noise while breathing -MBD: you cannot reverse this. Bending of limbs, broken limbs -Mites: little black bugs between scales (don’t mistake for dirt) might look lethargic or be itchy -Internal parasites: Will impact poop and/or diet. Can come from almost anything (if you see these please bring your dragon to the vet) [/QUOTE]
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