Removing cage furniture when beardie has Coccidia?

Status
Not open for further replies.

jbowers

Member
Hey,

I have just been doing research as my beardie has just been treated for coccidia (He seems to be doing great, acting as usual). Anyway, I was wondering how necessary, if you keep a clean cage and spray all spots with disinfectant, it is necessary to remove cage furniture such as logs. I only have a fake basking rock in there at the moment because it says on some treatment suggestions that removing wooden and porous objects is a good thing to do in treating coccidia. However, Sam really loves his two climbing branches, so if there was any way I could put them back in I would absolutely love to.

Cheers,
James
 

Neromom39

Gray-bearded Member
If you treat them with a 10% bleach solution, rinse with super hot water really well and then bake in the oven at 325 degrees for about 30 minutes, then that should kill off any bacteria that remains and you should be good to go.

As a matter of fact, it's a good practice to do this about once a month anyway, so this could just be practice :mrgreen:
 

herpfreak

Gray-bearded Member
As long as you clean everything thoroughly on a regular basis, it should be fine. The only other problem I can think of is that Sam might try to hide all day, but it sounds like that won't be a problem.

Glad to hear he is doing better!! :D
 

jbowers

Member
Original Poster
herpfreak":49b49 said:
As long as you clean everything thoroughly on a regular basis, it should be fine. The only other problem I can think of is that Sam might try to hide all day, but it sounds like that won't be a problem.

Glad to hear he is doing better!! :D

Ok, well say I wanted to clean daily. How would I go about effectively cleaning the wooden parts of the enclosure on a day to day basis? Just spray with f10 or a bleach solution or something like that?
 

BadCon

Sub-Adult Member
From my understanding, heat works very well on coccidia. So cleaning off organic debris (fecal matter, etc), then baking at the highest temp your comfortable with (since it’s wood, no higher than 300), should work very well to kill coccidia....and just about everything else for that matter. Leave it in the oven long enough to bring it completely up to temperature for about 15-20 minutes. Wood can be dumped right into a hot oven, but rocks and tiles (stone or ceramic) should be placed in a cool even and slowly brought up to temp. Also, if you ever bake these materials, make sure to turn the oven off but leave the door closed and let them slow cool down in the oven. Opening the door quickly can cause them to crack or shatter from the rapid temp change.
I personally use about 275 degrees for about 20-30 minutes (thats when the item is up to temperature, not just placing it in an 250 degree oven for 30 minutes). If possible, boiling for 20 minutes will also work.
Additionally high intensity UV light and Ozone are great at killing Coccidia, and virtually everything else (difficult to implement).

I try not to use bleach solutions on porous materials, unless I have the time to soak them in water afterwards to remove all the bleach residue. Also, bleach, in a 10% dilution, is not very effective against Coccidia, so you’re introducing a potential toxin for no real gain if killing coccidia is your goal. Bleach (10%) works well on most other forms of parasites, fungi, and bacteria found in reptile enclosures. Make sure that the bleach solution has at least 10-20 minutes of contact time for proper sanitization.
It loses potency quickly, so mix a fresh solution whenever you use it, and always use it above 50 degrees F, as it loses effectiveness below 50 degrees. Also, don't mix it with hot water, this is potentially dangerous (smell the chlorine? Not good!), and hot water can reduce the effectiveness of bleach.

Coccidia can be difficult to kill, and the most foolproof method I know of is heat (steam, oven, etc). Baking cage furniture is easy, but you can't bake an entire beardy viv, and the chemicals that can kill Coccidia are usually very dangerous. I know Roccal D is very effective, however QUATS or quaternary ammonia compounds (like Roccal D), need to be thoroughly rinsed before returning the animal to the enclosure, and are just as caustic as bleach. That said, they are very effective sanitizers. Roccal D runs about $100 a gallon, but its effective dilution rates are about 1 ounce to a gallon of water....so it lasts a long time, and Roccal D has a built in detergent...so it cleans and sanitizes. Virkon S has also been shown to be a great sanitizer, and it can be purchased in convenient tablet form. It can kill coccidia when mixed properly, and is effective even in the presents of organic debris, though they should be cleaned aways first. It is peroxide based and must be used freshly mixed, as once mixed it doesn't last long.
The cheapest method is using a 10% ammonia solution. Let it set for 20 minutes, then rinse like crazy. I personally don't like ammonia because of the smell, but for over the counter cleaners this is the only one that is very effective against Coccidia.

The thing people always seem to forget about sanitization is contact time. Even the most caustic of products need to sit for some time to be effective. When dealing with Coccidia, I recommend a contact time of about 20 minutes, regardless of the product you are using. I wouldn't soak steel or metal, as these are commonly corroded by certain sanitizers like Bleach or ammonia; instead, bake or boil.


This is my personal cleaning regime.

Step one, remove organic debris. This is done with warm water and some soap (dish soap). Organic debris will be a great places for bacteria and viruses to hang out. Also, organic debris deactivates or inhibits many sanitizers (like bleach).
Step two, rinse (soap can deactivate many sanitizers)
Step three, soak in chlorhexidine mixture (freshly mixed), for 30 minutes. I soak items that can't be heated, like plastic plants and the viv itself. Chlorhexidine is effective on most common forms of bacteria found in reptile enclosures, and can kill many viruses, but it’s very animal friendly, and does not need to be rinsed off (though it can't hurt). That said, it will NOT kill coccidia, so if you’re dealing with some knarly bugs....stronger sanitizers are needed (I recommend QUATs, like Roccal D).
Step 4-optional, bake all small oven friendly items (substrate tiles, wood cage furniture, etc) at 275 degrees for at least 30 minutes (time starts when item reaches 275 degrees throughout). This temperature and duration will kill most of the bad stuff that reptile owners are worried about, but true sterilization needs to be done at higher temperatures for longer periods (that said, sterlization is not needed in this instance). If your interested, a sustained temp of 320 degrees for 2 hours will kill virtually everything (300 degrees at 2.5hrs, 285 degrees at 3hrs).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Still Needs Help

Latest resources

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

Go88 là một trong những nhà cái cá cược trực tuyến hàng đầu với danh tiếng vững chắc trong cộng đồng người chơi.
Website: https://https://appgo88.link/
Tag: #appgo88link #go88link #Game_Go88 #Game_bài_Go88 #Cổng_game_Go88 #Tài_xỉu_Go88 #Nạp_tiền_Go88 #Rút_tiền_Go88 #play_Go88
Website:
https://smartcity.bandung.go.id/member/bsc3090527795d
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!
is tape safe for fixing something in my leopard geckos hide?
Day 3 of brumation. It's a struggle. I really miss my little guy. 😔
Mirage entered brumation yesterday, I'm gonna miss hanging out with my little guy.

Forum statistics

Threads
156,229
Messages
1,259,206
Members
76,143
Latest member
nickthompson
Top Bottom