Welcome to the forum---- first we must get your surface basking temps to 105-110 for now around 6 months that will change to 95-100 --- please get a digital probe thermometer 2 of them -- you need your surface basking temps to be correct the digital are the most accurate and he will not eat if this or the UVB is incorrect --- please NO coils for a UVB - you want one of the two I am going to postJust got our 5 month old BD Sunday. Right out of the gate the basking lamp bulb didn't work so we had to use an old weak lamp from our praying mantis but today I put back in a workin 100W light for basking. He's stayed under it all day but has not eaten or drank anything so far. There are two crickets in there and some mealworms. When I hold my meat thermometer under the basking lamp right on his basking stone it only reads 85 degrees. It's been on since 2 pm this afternoon. Otherwise the humidity is at 50% and the regular tank temp is 80 degrees. Is he just too cold to eat? Will the 100w bulb be enough for him? I certainly don't see it getting to 100 degrees. Advice appreciated. He's basking, moving his head and eyes but rarely moving much.
Hi So just now, we saw him eat one of the crickets, he also seems more lively and moving around more. So you are saying the 100W is not enough heat for him? They recommended mealworms but he hasn't touched those. There are 2 crickets left in his enclosure. He has a bowl full of collared greens (also suggested by petsmart). He also has a water bowl but not sure if I should put him on it or not. Most importantly, should I turn off the lights tonight to sleep or leave them on? I can buy a new bulb tomorrow.Welcome to the forum---- first we must get your surface basking temps to 105-110 for now around 6 months that will change to 95-100 --- please get a digital probe thermometer 2 of them -- you need your surface basking temps to be correct the digital are the most accurate and he will not eat if this or the UVB is incorrect --- please NO coils for a UVB - you want one of the two I am going to post
24" fixture for a 40 + gallon tank --- what is the tank size please?
Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO High Output Terrarium Hood if the tank is a 20 gallon use the 5.0 bulb that comes w/ it please let me know what you get so I can help you place it for the tank and the screen your using if the tank is a 40 gallon please get this bulb 22" Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO
or this one Arcadia ProT5 12% UVB Bulb With Hood
Pet Smart is carrying this one -- he needs this fixes as soon as you can --- he wont last long not eating- please keep him hydrated -- please do not leave any crickets in the tank they can or will bite the dragon and meal worms are too harsh on babies stomachs - I would hold off on those till hes around 6 months old -- you want him eating salads -- and I would get him switched over to dubia roaches they are a better feeder and buying on line is cheaper than the pet stores - you can get him some BSFL / nutri grubs from here along w/ some large super worms - feed those every other day 1-3 on his salads along w/ the nutri grubs - feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder --- great compliment to the dubias
www.dubiaroaches.com
but first we need to get the things I posted above correct first - your dragon will go thru relocation stress but he should be eating something -- nothing is not good
I am confused about the bulbs you posted. He has a light bulb that came with the tank - it's a two bulb set and one is for light and the other is for basking. The bulbs you posted are only 25 watt.....his basking light is 100 watt. I'm trying to see if I need to go higher than 100 watts. temp in tank is 81 degrees, basking spot is 85 degrees but light has only been on for about 6 hours now.Welcome to the forum---- first we must get your surface basking temps to 105-110 for now around 6 months that will change to 95-100 --- please get a digital probe thermometer 2 of them -- you need your surface basking temps to be correct the digital are the most accurate and he will not eat if this or the UVB is incorrect --- please NO coils for a UVB - you want one of the two I am going to post
24" fixture for a 40 + gallon tank --- what is the tank size please?
Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO High Output Terrarium Hood if the tank is a 20 gallon use the 5.0 bulb that comes w/ it please let me know what you get so I can help you place it for the tank and the screen your using if the tank is a 40 gallon please get this bulb 22" Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO
or this one Arcadia ProT5 12% UVB Bulb With Hood
Pet Smart is carrying this one -- he needs this fixes as soon as you can --- he wont last long not eating- please keep him hydrated -- please do not leave any crickets in the tank they can or will bite the dragon and meal worms are too harsh on babies stomachs - I would hold off on those till hes around 6 months old -- you want him eating salads -- and I would get him switched over to dubia roaches they are a better feeder and buying on line is cheaper than the pet stores - you can get him some BSFL / nutri grubs from here along w/ some large super worms - feed those every other day 1-3 on his salads along w/ the nutri grubs - feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder --- great compliment to the dubias
www.dubiaroaches.com
but first we need to get the things I posted above correct first - your dragon will go thru relocation stress but he should be eating something -- nothing is not good
You need the digital probe thermometers first before you do any changing of the bulbs - you do not want the surface temps too hot --- please get those and go from there - try 105-110 for now as dragons get to be around 6 months and older they do not like the real hot temps -- please do NOT listen to the Pet Smart people any more --- they often give more bad advice than good ---Hi So just now, we saw him eat one of the crickets, he also seems more lively and moving around more. So you are saying the 100W is not enough heat for him? They recommended mealworms but he hasn't touched those. There are 2 crickets left in his enclosure. He has a bowl full of collared greens (also suggested by petsmart). He also has a water bowl but not sure if I should put him on it or not. Most importantly, should I turn off the lights tonight to sleep or leave them on? I can buy a new bulb tomorrow.
I posted 2 UVB fixtures one is a Zoo Med one is a Arcadia - the Arcadia comes w/ a 12% bulb you can use that or the Zoo Med comes w/ a 5.0 bulb good for small tanks like a 20 gallon if you have a tank that is 40 gallon you need the 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 ------- good basking bulbs are Flukers ---- Zoo Med Repti basking ---- Exo Terra Intense ---- or Arcadia Halogen -- your not going to know exactly what the surface basking temps are until you get the digital probe thermometers -- those are a must to get those tempsYou need the digital probe thermometers first before you do any changing of the bulbs - you do not want the surface temps too hot --- please get those and go from there - try 105-110 for now as dragons get to be around 6 months and older they do not like the real hot temps -- please do NOT listen to the Pet Smart people any more --- they often give more bad advice than good ---
I do have a digital probe - that's what I'm going off of for temp. His basking rock surface isn't getting very hot but its a 100w bulb. The person I was listening to at Pet Smart owns 3 of them so I thought she knew what she was talking about. Tongiht when I turned off the basking light he ran to the glass and started scratchign at it so I turned it back on. I'll turn it off when I go to bed....just not sure he should be having light on so muchYou need the digital probe thermometers first before you do any changing of the bulbs - you do not want the surface temps too hot --- please get those and go from there - try 105-110 for now as dragons get to be around 6 months and older they do not like the real hot temps -- please do NOT listen to the Pet Smart people any more --- they often give more bad advice than good ---
Photo period 12 hrs on 12 hrs off- dragons like cool and dark 65-75 ambient temps - ok so you can increase wattage or try raising the basking decorI do have a digital probe - that's what I'm going off of for temp. His basking rock surface isn't getting very hot but its a 100w bulb. The person I was listening to at Pet Smart owns 3 of them so I thought she knew what she was talking about. Tongiht when I turned off the basking light he ran to the glass and started scratchign at it so I turned it back on. I'll turn it off when I go to bed....just not sure he should be having light on so much
Thank you. He seemed not happy wtih the light off.Photo period 12 hrs on 12 hrs off- dragons like cool and dark 65-75 ambient temps - ok so you can increase wattage or try raising the basking decor
He may have parasites - is the main staple crickets? And please post a pic of the poop - the poop needs to be formed dark and moist the urate needs to be white formed and moist - that is good poop -- really runny and stink to high heaven could be a sign of parasites - if you want call your vet preferably a reptile vet take a sample in for testing - No enemas if you take him in--- they often end in disaster especially when babiesThank you. He seemed not happy wtih the light off.
Also - their poop smells AWFUL. I assume that's normal but it's not easy to clean since he poops on his basking rock :/
The only time they need heat at night is if temperatures are dropping below about 65°. They like it cool and completely dark at night. If it is getting that cold, a ceramic heat emitter can be used. They only give off heat, no light.Ok I'll check, I only smelled it, could not tell where it actually was. Someone else told me to leave a heating lamp on at night....I just want to make sure he's not cold
Poop is looking like liquid or gel like black with some gel like white, not formed. Does this definitely mean parasites?He may have parasites - is the main staple crickets? And please post a pic of the poop - the poop needs to be formed dark and moist the urate needs to be white formed and moist - that is good poop -- really runny and stink to high heaven could be a sign of parasites - if you want call your vet preferably a reptile vet take a sample in for testing - No enemas if you take him in--- they often end in disaster especially when babies
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