Greene":2iizazvi said:It is getting slightly easier to feed him the critical care. We just finished day 4 of it. I know he hates the process and really doesn't like the syringe in his mouth, but it is getting slightly easier. His beard does get very dark during the feedings. I am the bad guy and have my daughter do the nice things to him to try to decrease his stress. He is now not eating any bugs though. We still offer, but I assume he won't be interested in them for a while.
He still does not seem to have any strength. He rolls or slides down his perch often. I have placed things like wash cloths to soften his fall. I found him on his back a few minutes after his lights went off today. He seems to just lay around all day on his belly. Doesn't really even put his feet on the floor much.
Doc said it might be as much as 30 days before we see improvement. Trying to be patient. Thank you for your advise and listening.
Greene":1momtpu3 said:Doing the best I can with this to do what is safest and least stressful to him. Unfortunately for his we have cats. The cats are not allowed in his room, but accidents happen. So I cannot remove the screen or lower the light.
<<<It is very easy - you can easily simply place a heavy piece of MDF or plywood overtop of the mesh lid , in fact since you have cats , I'd permanently remove and throw the mesh / screen lid away and replace it with a heavy hinged timber lid , anyone who is handy with DIYS carpentry can rig up a box frame to sit on the top the viv and onto which the solid timber lid's hinges can be fastened , the lights (basking globe and UVB tube can easily and permanently be attached under the new hinged lid
see this layout , is very simple and very basic - AND CAT PROOF !!
one or two of these boat Stretch loops & Buttons
http://www.bcf.com.au/Product/Blueline-Stretch-loop-Button-Pair/168698?menuFrom=571494
on the front of the lid will secure the lid and stop a determined skink from pushing the lid up enough to climb out .
Benefits:
1) cats can't get the lid open or get a claw under it or through it
2) the solid timber will hold heat in the viv ==> lower wattage basking / MVB globe will achieve same zone and basking temperature ==> lower power bills !
3) the solid timber lid will provide a solid platform from which to hang the basking globe & CHE (ceramic high temperature fixtures and safety cages) and the T8 or T5HO UVB tube and reflector hood
4) will promote a good thermal gradient rather than allowing all the heat created by the basking globe and CHE to escape (and pool at the ceiling of the room where the viv is housed).
The use of piano hinge which is the same length as the lid ensures the lid can't lip off or fall off .
The weight of a solid MDF or plywood lid and the stretchy rubber loops on the front of the lid will defeat a cat's attempts to get into the viv.
I have him on the lowest perch I can with the highest lamp the balast is rated for. I have removed all straight down drops. The remaining is a ramp. I often place him in a tub on the perch so he can't fall at all, but it seems to stress him a bit. I could set the tub ( medium Tupperware bowl) more permanently. He should evetually get over the stress.
Greene":59bq0w2g said:He is doing the same for now. We did change the lighting again. So originally we had a coil non-uvb light only light. This has been removed since Jan 29th. The heat lamp keeps his hot side between 89 and 93 and his cool side 79 to 85. He tends to always like the hot side. The basking is usually about 110. I had moved the ho t5 uvb to the top of the screen after Ellen suggested he was getting too much. I moved it back inside at the very front a couple of days ago due to his back legs. I am unable to redo the top due to logistics and that the terrarium is only 18 inches high. So what have done is get a very wide clear plastic container placed on boxes to get it to the correct height. Now he can bask without any risk of falling. It is wide enough that he can move to the coolside if he wants. When he gets better I plan to allow him his regular basking spots. With this setup the uvb is about 12 inches from where he lays.
As for the calcium and vitamins. We originally used rep-cal phosphorus free calcium with vit d and rep-cal herptivite with beta carotene. The store said to mix the 2 together daily which is what I did for the first 2 weeks. Then with research I started the calcium on his bugs 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week. But he did not get much in the way of calcium or vitamins as he wouldn't eat much of anything. The per the vets instruction we didn't give anything but the Carnivore Care. I thought that was odd. So I purchased the flukers liquid vitamin and calcium to add to the Carnivore Care. I have added the calcium everyday for the last 5 (and was actually adding a pinch of the rep-cals before I purchased the liquids), but I have not used the vitamins but 2xs a week. I have been using 2 to 3 drops so far.
He seems to be able to see now. When he bothers to open them. I asked the vet when we were there and he said he was definately not blind.
Honestly this "perfect pet" for a 10 yr old was such a lie. I read the forums daily to see what I am missing and even with a PhD in chemistry, I still can't seem to get everything right.
<<< A bearded dragon, even a healthy one is definitely NOT a perfect pet for a 10yr old.
You are on steep learning curve , and having a sick dragon can be a challenge . You are not the last of the Mohicans.
Very frustrating. Any other suggestions? Do I have the vitamins and calcium correct?
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