Beardie vomit

[AHBD]

It was confusing because you showed a bag of freeze dried worms so that's why we mentioned it. Don't feed her late in the day, that gives her tome to digest any food, they need the heat for at least 3 hours while the basking lights are on to digest meals, sometimes even longer. If a beardie vomits it doesn't mean they have parasites, although many beardies have parasites anyway. It's good that she has eaten again, she's probably fine now. I don't think you need the OTC Worm Guard.

 

[KarrieRee]

It was crazy looking I panicked and started to cry LOL I love her so much
They weren’t freeze dried, I only feed her live insects as I was told it’s healthier? I’ve also been told pellets are not good? So I’ve stayed away from both
I think she ate around 5-6 live mealworms the night before she threw up. She ended up eating the next day though, and had greens as well, she seems ok now - I panicked because online I had read vomiting was a sign of parasites

Vomiting is a sign of upset stomach- and no worm guard - you want a actual fecal test to see if there are parasites- you dont want to give something she may not need - all dragons have a degree of parasites - its when they become over loaded and start causing issues like not eating really runny poop and smell horrible- they can become lethargic as well -- your UVB and good surface basking temps help them to keep them under control

 

[ivysul]

Ok for a tank of 35 and smaller use the 5.0 bulb-- it will need to be unobstructed no screen and directly above the basking decor 6-8 inches- I recommend not giving the worm meds till you have a parasite test done- take a fecal in for testing- NO ENEMAS! they are too risky - yes keep the basking bulb-- Che's are only needed if the tank is falling below 65 at nite

Found great deals today

Ok for a tank of 35 and smaller use the 5.0 bulb-- it will need to be unobstructed no screen and directly above the basking decor 6-8 inches- I recommend not giving the worm meds till you have a parasite test done- take a fecal in for testing- NO ENEMAS! they are too risky - yes keep the basking bulb-- Che's are only needed if the tank is falling below 65 at nite

Assuming this is the 5.0 bulb? Will order this once you confirm & a fixture for it as well. I thought on one side was the UVB and on the other side was UVA? So it should be directly above the basking spot? I have the basking lamp above the basking decor

Yes I will definitely refrain from the worm meds I guess I will just keep them after fecal testing. Nighttime temp is 75 so will also refrain from heat emitter

Thank you so much again I really appreciate it

 

[KarrieRee]

Found great deals today

Assuming this is the 5.0 bulb? Will order this once you confirm & a fixture for it as well. I thought on one side was the UVB and on the other side was UVA? So it should be directly above the basking spot? I have the basking lamp above the basking decor

Yes I will definitely refrain from the worm meds I guess I will just keep them after fecal testing. Nighttime temp is 75 so will also refrain from heat emitter

Thank you so much again I really appreciate it

This bulb comes w/ the fixture --- you will need to upgrade that bulb to a 10.0 when you get a 40+ gallon tank --- the basking bulb is what gives the UVA --- a clear solid bright white basking bulb --- its optimal to have the UVB and your basking bulb together -- sometimes you cant do that but you do need the 5.0 bulb unobstructed --- NO screen --- the UVB needs to be directly over A basking decor piece -- not necessarily next to your basking bulb if you can get it like that its good - you dont want night time temps above 75-- dragons like it cool and dark