on the measuring guage hygrometer etc most of them i have tried they are all about the same an crappy the way i tell is i put it at a decent spot for 12hours for my male dragon and he would sit up there with his mouth open and his body fully white no stress mark so i know that my temperature should be perfectly good and the humid guage actually work really well but the temeprature im not so sure as you see i did post they are lower then normal as of 85-92 ish is usually the highest but i use a 60watt 75 watt 150watt i have around 3 of each to use and for my male dragon i been using the 75 watt cause thats perfect for him he enjoys it and its not too hot or too cold
i have 3 10.0 uvb they are the long ones and get in the way i have 2 of those so no worries and my other one is a maxium heat uva and uvb together atm i have that big on for my injure beardie it keeps most of the tank at 20-30% dry and 90-102F now but i turn it off every 6hour and let it cool for an hour so it doesnt overheat or anything for my dragon because shes small.
on the measuring guage hygrometer etc most of them i have tried they are all about the same an crappy the way i tell is i put it at a decent spot for 12hours for my male dragon and he would sit up there with his mouth open and his body fully white no stress mark so i know that my temperature should be perfectly good and the humid guage actually work really well but the temeprature im not so sure as you see i did post they are lower then normal as of 85-92 ish is usually the highest but i use a 60watt 75 watt 150watt i have around 3 of each to use and for my male dragon i been using the 75 watt cause thats perfect for him he enjoys it and its not too hot or too cold
I would definitely recommend getting a probe thermometer from petsmart or something, they're only about $10, because you really do need to regulate the temps of both sides of the tanks for both babies, especially the silkie since she's injured. Their ability to digest properly depends on their temperatures. Your healthy baby should have a basking temp of 105-110 (that's the surface of the basking area, not the ambient air temp). You cannot accurately get the temperature of their basking surface without a probe thermometer or an infrared temp gun. If he's sitting with his mouth open, he's thermo-regulating because he's too hot.
I have just one concern about your UVBs. Your dragons need to be able to get within 6-8" of the bare bulb, as putting the lights on top of the screen filters out some of the UVB. I can see how your male beardie could get a decent amount of UVB if you put the light on top of his screen, since he can get right up to the top of the tank, but he really would do better with an unfiltered UVB source so he doesn't have to live on that top branch to stay healthy. What brand are your long tube lights, the ReptiSUN or the ReptiGLO?
well i already know about their temperature and no them opening their mouth are perfectly fine because they are releasing unneeded or to much heat so yea unless you wanna get me one i appreciate but as of now whatever i have will do and i already have studied on the temperature and the distance thanks for that
Christmas is coming, you could ask for a probe thermometer for each dragon's enclosure! Or if you don't think you'll get the right one, you can ask for a gift card and use that for your thermometer(s). WalMart and home improvement stores sell an "indoor/outdoor" thermometer that works really well and it's under $15. I think the brand name is spelled Acu-Rite or Acurite.
Or a temp gun. Those are more expensive, but pretty nifty.
Like everyone else has been saying, accurate temps are a basic necessity. More important than I've noticed some people seem to realize! Accurate temps are especially super important for silkies, and for dragons who are injured. <3 So that's like, double important for your little guy. (sorry, I'm done harping about it for now haha)
As long as she's actually ingesting what you're forcing her to eat I don't think it can be that bad, it'd be worse to give up and just watch her starve, wouldn't it? She may just not have the strength to feed herself because all of her body's energy is going into healing her wounds.
well so far her whole body looks well the end of her tail has to rot away but its not expanding and then her leg is still swollen but its not changing any color and she still can feel it so its attached idk about the bone. the vet wasnt clear so ehh she still doing fine
im so sad for some reason the tell of the silkie rot away fine and not affecting her she has been eating 5 crickets that isnt too big for her but her left leg that was bitten is still swollen but its not changing color just swollen she has been moving around alot more tho
It sounds like you recently took her to the vet. Did the vet say anything about the swollen leg? (In humans, swelling around a wound can indicate an infection. Not sure if it's the same with reptiles)
the vet said it should be fine as long as she eats daily fed gut loaded i been doing that her tail end rot away fine and the end is already healing but the leg isnt turning dark no show any sign of infection but justlumpy then straight and skinny so yea ):
Well Kirby that i named now is getting better her tail end has fallen off and end of her tail is healing her leg is still a bit swollen but i applied more antibiotic keeping her fed under heat and shes able to kinda of move it will post picture in a bit
So it has been about 2 month since i helped and rescue this baby silk back so far she (kirby) is doing well the end of her tail faill of no infection her leg healed up no more lumpy injured leg thing is she doesn't seem to move or eat by her self i still have to kinda hand feed her the tiny baby cricket tho she opens her mouth really easily i tried putting them in front of her but after an hour she doesnt eat by her self so i have to hand feed it to her anys uggestion and yea i have a ucb 10 reptisun for her