Soulsplosion":1l6yp78m said:I have a 3 month old baby who I've had for several weeks who's been fine. I was wondering if he was slightly slower lately (not lethargic or anything just not running marathons as often). Tonight he didn't move to find a place to sleep and was just where he was, and when I picked him up he was shivering a Lot, though he is now cozy and has stopped.
Lizards don't shake when too cold , they don't create body heat internally. This is only something done by mammals.
If he's shaking, it's a symptom of some kind of vitamin deficiency or a neurological problem ( from either lack of UVA , poor diet , or a desease effecting his nervous system).
Looking at your images of the light set up, it's very likely he's not received sufficient UVA , tube is ontop a very fine mesh lid.
Move the hood & and tube UNDER the mesh, this will result in an instant doubling of the UVA & UVB he'll receive.
His UV is a new reptisun 10.0 T8
a 10% T8 tube mounted ontop a mesh lid is COMPLETELY INADEQUATE , the dragon needs to be able to bask inside 4 inches from this , and if no mesh under it , inside 6-8 inches of the tube.
aim for UVB about 190 microW / sq.cm at basking spot, 80 microW / sq.cm on warm zone floor.
Can you return the T8 tube and reflector hood and exchange for a T5Ho of at least 10% UVB rating ?
...a T5ho 12% UVB will be even better
If you insist on leaving the uv tube and hood ontop the mesh lid, then I STRONGLY suggest a T5ho 14%UVB tube in your case to ensure adequate UVA and UVB exposure at the basking spot and elsewhere in the warm zone.
, his basking spot is 100 degrees at most with plenty of middle & cooler spots, & he eats kale, collard greens and plenty of crickets.The only off thing I can think of is maybe calcium; he gets supplements but I was wondering if he wasn't getting enough lately so I started giving him more, and perhaps overdid and overdosed it, but I don't see that being a symptom of calcium overdose anywhere. Could he be getting MBD that fast even with some calcium?
Soulsplosion":1kjxc33z said:this is his setup:
which is in the range stated on the boxes
<<< sorry but the information on the boxes is very misleading and has caused many noobs to set up incorrectly ( you aren't the first to fall into this trap and wont be the last , and this is usually reinforced by poor advise given by know nothing shop staff ).
Zoo Med needs to up their game and start specifying ACTUAL microW UVB and microW UVA at a set of distances in a table form or as a graph and recommends a UVA and UVB flux at the baskings spot for bearded dragons.
The info here : https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/Choosing-Correct-UVB-Lamp-2018-07.pdf
is very misleading and WAY TOO VAGUE to be useful , and in places it's incorrect wrt UV levels needed.
He eats mainly kale but it's a mix with collard or dandelion greens (whichever we have) and sometimes with peas/carrots
His only protein is crickets for now bc he's still tiny
THANK!
I'd just note that the claim on the above link is immediately preceded by the disclaimer:AHBD":54n8j1o2 said:And according to the USDA , kale is very low in oxalates and can be fed as a staple. It's spinach + swiss chard that should be avoided but not kale.
https://www.healwithfood.org/articles/oxalates-kale-spinach.php
I don't know about everyone else, but I have no way of knowing/determining about the kale at my local grocery (whose sources vary depending on many factors inherent in the grocery/produce business), what type of soil it was grown in, how old it was when harvested, seasonality, or the other factors that affect levels of oxalates. It makes me wonder what the USDA actually said, and how they couched it.Before delving into the exact values, it is important to note that the oxalic acid content of a specific vegetable can vary significantly depending on several factors. For example, the type of soil in which the vegetable was grown as well as the age of the vegetable when it was harvested can have a great impact on the oxalate content of that food. Furthermore, oxalate concentrations of vegetables such as kale and spinach have been shown to vary significantly depending on the season.
Yet none of them I've read/seen provide a link to the USDA where this alleged data can be reviewed or evaluated. Does anyone have one? I spent the better part of an hour searching the USDA site and couldn't find anything relating to the amount(s) of oxalates in kale. It might (or might not) clear up some confusion to be able to read/see this source material.According to nutrient data provided by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), 100-gram serving of kale (Brassica oleracea L. var. acephala) contains only 20 milligrams of oxalates.
What makes you think I haven't? The greens/vegetables we're using as staples don't have conflicting information--same with the plants in the enclosure. If they did, I'd play it safe there too.AHBD":24kv9pns said:Well using that logic you'd have to scrutinize all the other greens that are used as staples
That's just another person repeating the same alleged USDA figure as the other link--unsupported by the actual USDA link. How is that different from "people passing on misinformation year after year that got to be taken as truth"?Here's another source saying kale is fine :
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