KarrieRee":1ugm9ymd said:My recommendation is get rid of the UVB your have -- here is some info for that
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia).
UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 8-10 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- Brands to DEFINITELY ADVOID buying are as follows :
Nomoy Pet,
Zilla,
All Living Things,
Reptile-One,
URS,
MegaRay Brand,
CrawlMiracle,
Nat Geo ,
Sparkzoo reptispar,
Repti-Zoo ,
NatAll of which are cheap Chinese clones made very cheaply using very poor quality quartz glass and cheap phosphors and next to no quality control or no meaningful quality control ==> very poor UV spectrum produced including UVC and bad parts of the UVB band --- these will harm your pet.ura
domestic fittings for T8 and T5 tubes are fine PROVIDED the tube is not covered == the cover will stop all UV.
>>> a slip on reflector or use of a reflector hood is an excellent investment as it will focus and essentially double the UVA and UVB seen by the beardie , and no UVA or UVB will be wasted by radiating to areas inaccessible to the beardie
So the lethargic thing going on is lack of UVB is my guess--- being he is still a baby keep offering him greens his main diet at this point is bugs --- they usually start eating more vegies around a yr or so --
Karrie
I dont know how to upload a photo but i can tell you exactly what bulb it isKarrieRee":s2s6exre said:Ok in 4-5 months your beardie is going to be sick---- the UVB is crucial to his health and over all behavior--- he will start to develop MBD --- unless you can get him outside in the direct sun every day for 15 minutes he will be fine-- but it has to be everyday for 15 minutes --- they need to be able to sit under their UVB proper UVB for at least 4 hrs --- his eating will only get worse as he wont be able to process the nutrients in his food -- that is what the UVB does --- can you post a pic of the UVB you have please
Karrie
BazziTheBeardie":1berldzf said:KarrieRee":1berldzf said:My recommendation is get rid of the UVB your have -- here is some info for that
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia).
UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 8-10 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- Brands to DEFINITELY ADVOID buying are as follows :
Nomoy Pet,
Zilla,
All Living Things,
Reptile-One,
URS,
MegaRay Brand,
CrawlMiracle,
Nat Geo ,
Sparkzoo reptispar,
Repti-Zoo ,
NatAll of which are cheap Chinese clones made very cheaply using very poor quality quartz glass and cheap phosphors and next to no quality control or no meaningful quality control ==> very poor UV spectrum produced including UVC and bad parts of the UVB band --- these will harm your pet.ura
domestic fittings for T8 and T5 tubes are fine PROVIDED the tube is not covered == the cover will stop all UV.
>>> a slip on reflector or use of a reflector hood is an excellent investment as it will focus and essentially double the UVA and UVB seen by the beardie , and no UVA or UVB will be wasted by radiating to areas inaccessible to the beardie
So the lethargic thing going on is lack of UVB is my guess--- being he is still a baby keep offering him greens his main diet at this point is bugs --- they usually start eating more vegies around a yr or so --
Karrie
He is at the point where he doesnt need too many bugs hes almost 20" head to tail and is pretty big. The uvb is something ive been asking my parents about but they dont want to get it. Im more worried about his problem with going to the bathroom right now.The uvb is going to be upgraded the next time it needs changed (4-5) Months as it is a newer bulb.
That's probably your problem. Those are wildly inaccurate and plus they have no way to give you your most important temperature, your baking SURFACE temp. You should definitely go get a temp gun or a digital work probe end to check your temperatures.BazziTheBeardie":vc42ldpc said:I use one thermometer zoo med strip,and have two zoo med hygrometer/thermometers (not digital)
im going to order a digital thermometer on amazon prime today! His temps have always been the same since hes been a baby and he used to poop daily.claudiusx":10aiwimh said:The digital thermometers are really cheap now. Like less than $10. This isnt something you should wait on. And natural sunlight isnt going to help with this issue as he needs proper temperatures.
Without proper temperatures no digestion occurs. No digestion means no nutrients being absorbed. No nutrients being absorbed leads to a sickly dragon.
I really hope you will be able to get a thermometer today so we can start working on the issue here. Hopefully if you're lucky the temp wouldn't have been that off, but you dont know until you know and this is something you need to know for the health of your dragon.
Keep us updated.
-Brandon
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