Lexielu182":12a6hnf6 said:I have been offering him romaine lettuce for weeks because it was his favorite and he would eat it but he was only eating a certain amount I figured it was just normal because sometimes he did that then I would give him cooked butternut squash and very large crickets and large meal worms ever so often a giant roach and some silk worms but he started to only eat meal worms then he wanted no meal worms and only romaine lettuce I figured he was eating because the lettuce would be gone when I got home I work 12 hr shifts sometimes 24 because of my profession and trust me this is very upsetting to me that he's in this bad of shape he was being taken care of by my nephew and when they told me he wasn't moveing and such I took over and now I have this situation so please keep the anger and rude comments away this wasn't intentional I love this lizard very much and the red light I just bought it's a 150 watt he use to do very well with this light he kept him nice and warm and happy at night his day light is a 100 watt basking bulb again
<<<< for starters - throw that rubbish red light globe in the bin , get rid of it , never use ever again --- PERIOD .... for nighttime if it's cold in the room where he is you need a heat source that gives off no light / glow at all , ie a ceramic heat emitter , and you need it controlled by a switching thermostat (OK to set it to the desired nighttime temperature and forget it - let it run 24/7, the tank will be warmed by the basking light during the daytime and the thermostat will automatically turn off the CHE if it's warmer than the thermostat's setpoint).
You mention a red heat globe and a basking globe ---- no mention of a UVA / UVB source AT ALL.
PLEASE ANSWER MY PREVIOUS QUESTIONS - IN DETAIL .
12hr shifts is NO EXCUSE for such poor husbandry of this beardie who is 100% dependent and reliant on you for all it's needs.
I know lots of people who work long hours (many of whom are working double shifts (16 hr days) most days and yet they still manage to give their pet lizards and snakes great care and lots of love.
If you think you don't have time to care for this poor beardie you MUST surrender it to a reptile rescuer as it is in such a poor state NOW that ONLY INTENSIVE CARE WILL SAFE IT'S LIFE. Saving it's life and rehabilitating it will a long and expensive process and you must do this under vet guidance.
By intensive care I mean buying Oxbow Critical Care for Carnivores and HerpaBoost and feeding it liquid slurries of these using a proper feeding syringe and a feeding needle (likely directly down it's throat into it's stomach probably as 3 or 4 small meals per day ( it wont handle a full sized meal in one hit ).
This is the gear you need and how to use it to force feed your bearded dragon directly into it's stomach viewtopic.php?f=45&t=232687 ask the vet to demonstrate this technique to you and teach you how to do it .
It's WELL AND TRUELY past the stage where it can handle solid foods of any kind (it's organs = kidneys , liver, etc will all be shutting down as it's NOW close to death.
I'm not kidding you, these are the facts and you need to man up and accept these and make very important decisions , including NOT WAITING FOR A VET APPOINT (TO BE FIT IN by a vet when it suits their schedule) and when it is convenient to you.
You will also have to start giving it herp vitamins in liquid form and CalciVet solution each day orally by syringe.
FORCE FEEDING OF SPECIAL HIGH POTENCY LIQUID FOODS AND SLURRIES MADE FOR CRITICALLY ILL REPTILES WILL HAVE TO GO ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS just to get this poor beardie into anything remotely approaching good physical condition, it took several months of starvation and neglect to get it to the state it's in and it will likely take as long before it's healthy and strong again.
Are YOU PREPARED TO COMMIT TO THAT ? If not , surrender the bearded dragon a competent reptile rescue organization and they will turn heaven and earth to save this bearded dragon's life and to rehabilitate it before rehoming it with a more suitable carer for the rest of it's life.
he always did well with these so I don't think it's the lights I think sense I was able to buy the red light he is doing better he has moved more then before even drank water and has been opening his eyes I am right now feeding him baby food butternut squash mixed with mashed crickets if anyone could tell me what type of pedialyte to give him and or any other foods I could moosh and feed id be super appreciative <<<< he is well past the point where cheap home remedies will help him
and if I need specific lights let me know also please let me know what to change for the bottom of his tank I went to a speciality store they told me this sand stuff <<<< ditch the sand , put down a couple of layers of kitchen grade absorbant paper toweling .
LIGHTS :
UV = AT THE VERY LEAST a T5 10% UVB tube in a reflector hood (not a rubbish shop brand , get either an Arcadia , Exo Terra or Zoo Med uvb tube).
Run it 16 hours per day.
LIGHT & HEAT during the day = a good colourless basking light that creates a basking spot temperature about 40degC and a warm zone about 30degC.
Run it 16 hours per day unless it is expected to be heatwave conditions (no basking light on very hot days, if the basking light IS NOT A MVB , you can set up a switching thermostat to turn it off if the temperature at basking spot is hotter than say 42degC.)
NIGHT HEAT = he is such a poor state he needs to be kept warm 24/7 , so a CHE on a switching thermostat , set it to keep him at about 26-28 degC overnight.
so I'll take any suggestions I had him on lizard carpet before but I couldn't find one that would fit his tank thanks also it's summer here but where I live has been pretty cold lately but I have a heat rock for him in the cage <<< throw the heat rock in the bin, or unplug it and throw the power cord away , heat rocks have a very bad reputation for overheating and burning reptiles.
and the night light on for heat
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