Baby Beardie ends up on back?

Got my baby about 2 months ago, I'd say shes about 3ish months old, her name is Lex, she was having some trouble with being impacted, i found her upside down 2 times, took her log out and her vines out so i could make sure it didnt happen again, and I then solved this issue with purée pumpkin, she pooped in the tub, then had trial runs with the log again, she was upside down this morning, shes still bloated a bit and has the bump in her back and i read that this could be a calcium deficiency so i picked up the liquid calcium for her water, and got the powder calcium from when i first got her, just wondering if anyone knows why she ends up on her back randomly, she didnt have this issue before her poop problem, and her bloated belly.. could she have gained weight from her impaction? her belly doesnt feel hard or anything

i also have cats that like to be up by her tank and look in and she likes to run around taunting and playing with them when shes in there and theyre watching her, could this be stressing her out? shes also shedding a bit on her tail thats why she hasnt been eating a whole lot

Hi. Can you give a rundown of the setup? Lights used? Brands? Temps now you take them? Size of the enclosure? Subtrate?

i use the double zoo med light, 75wats it comes in the double pack with the bulbs sold separately, she has the brown felt on the bottom because i know the woodchips can be swallowed and the sand can get stuck in her bum and cause issues, and just recently got her some new vines, its a 2 foot tank, the temp is about 35 degrees C, so just under 100 degrees F, bought it second hand and gave it a good rinse out, this is just temporary as we live in an apartment and arent even suppose to have her...

What kind of uvb are you using and how close can she get to it?

she can crawl up in her vines and get pretty close to it, im pretty sure its just the uv light, im not exactly sure it just came in a pck of 2 the zoomed brand with 75wats

This could be the problem. You might have to unscrew the bulb and see what it is unless you have the packaging. I'm not sure those even come with a uvb? It's very important to know what you are using and how old it is.

Lights : inadequate , set up very poorly.This will help you work out how they should be setup - viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

Temperatures
>> basking spot - (NO HOTTER THAN 40 degC (100 degF))
>> warm zone - (aim for about 35 degC)
>> cool zone - (aim for about 30 degC)
>> overnight - (no colder than 24 degC overnight for a hatchling)
>> how are you measuring these (which what ? show us )?

UV source = very important (NOT OPTIONAL , must be a proper full spectrum reptile UV source that produces at least both UVA & UVB (at least 10%UVB)).
show us
> exactly what is it ( type = compact (curly) , t8 tube, t5ho tube , or MVB ) ?
> UVB rating ? …. should be rated 10% or higher
> wattage ?
> brand ?
> in reflector dome or a reflector hood ?
> ontop or under a mesh / or solid lid - VERY BAD IDEA TO SIT ONTOP A MESH LID
> how far from the basking spot? …. aiming for 200 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking spot , 100 microW UVB elsewhere.


photoperiod , how long are the basking and UV lights on each day ? …. I run my lights on a timer on 6am off 10pm EVERY DAY.


Behaviour
Flipping over : this may be symptomatic of ADV, is she arching her back and then flipping over onto her back ?

Diet and feeding schedule : exactly what and how often per day are you feeding her ?

Better off giving
>> Housefly gents / pupae and even the flies (little hatchlings love these and will leap to catch them)
>> Blowfly gents / pupae and the flies ( ditto )
>> Black soldier fly lavae / pupae and the flies (quite slow moving and ditto) … try to get the white very wrigglely lavae ...these will be more "interesting" to a hatchling and they must be separated from the bedding they come in (I simply fish them out by hand).
>> small silkworms (if the hatchling is under 50g I'd offer silkworms 1" - 1.5" long)
>> suitable sized crickets *, roaches* or locusts *
* not longer than the distance between the hatchlings' eyes, and gutloaded with high calcium greens , carrot and dry lizard pellets (crickets love them) , and dusted every feed.

compare feeder insects : viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611
veg : http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

Under 6 months old , 3 meals of live insects (as many as the hatching wants in a sitting) per day, offer salad but is not important if the hatchling shows no interest in the green stuff and grated vegs.
Need more than 95% live insects while very young and rapidly growing and developing as a hatchling.

See this for indications of sizes feeders
silkworm size that's OK for a 2 month old hatchling



Housefly and blowfly gents


Crickets (I'd be looking for 20 day old crickets or 1/4 size)


It's OK to hand feed a hatchling who is refusing to feed - this shows how some people do this : viewtopic.php?f=18&t=235583, I recommend you get into a routine of giving each a few live insects by hand each day as a bonding ritual , it's a fabulous way to bond with lizard and earn their trust. I've done this will all my pet and rescued wild lizards, and also do It with my resident local wild lizards too
…. yes even wild lizards can learn to trust (and like you) and take food treats from my hands and between my finger tips , and even let me pet them.