After a couple days to familiarize himself with the new environment, begin handling...pick him up and hold him firmly at the chest and groin area, to provide complete support, so he cannot injure himself or you. Here is a little trick I have used on the most aggressive Beardies, to distract them from their flight or fight mentality: your hands will be pressed together, held verticaly, as if in prayer. He is between the hands, head pointed up towards ceiling, tail down, pancaked between your hands. Press firmly, but gently. Shake him side to side, quickly, and rythmically. this motion begins at your wrists. You may want to practice without the beardie to learn how it feels. For some reason, this "mesmerizes" a Beardie, no matter how violent he is acting. They simply relax, go limp, as if in a trance. Continue this a few moments, until total relaxation is achieved. His fight response is interrupted, and you can hold him a minute or two, without his struggling. Do this several times a day. I have used this method to instantly calm Beardies with black beards, open mouths and so threatening, no one wanted to touch them. It is like a magic trick!! The stressed beardie often relaxes in my hand, and sits with me quite comfortably, even after just one session. In some cases, for example one who has had extreme abuse or simply a very aggressive personality, it may take a few sessions. When he begins to be defensive and fearful again, place him calmly back in his viv, so as not to stress him further. The idea is to get him accustomed to being handled without the fight response.
Another effective method is to wait until he is in sleep mode at night. His body temp will be lower, and he will be more sluggish than daytime. Pick him up ever so gently, so as not to wake him, then place him on your chest, where he can smell you and hear your hearbeat, etc. He may go right back to sleep. Just let him lay there, becoming accustomed to you as a safe place, even in his sleep. Some like to be wrapped like a burrito in a soft piece of material, to feel more protected. I prefer skin to skin contact. This introduces a bonding. When he begins to wake up and realise he is being held, and wants off, place him back in his viv without fuss, so he can trust that you are not forcing him. The idea here is to get him to associate your smell, touch, etc, with safety, so always end on a positive note, do not wait until he is starting to panic.
Each beardie is quite individual, so a method that works well for one, may not work for another. Keep trying new approaches, until the right one is found.
Some rehabbers have placed a sock, undershirt, or other worn item of clothing in the viv with the new beardie,to introduce him to your scent. I have mentioned scent several times. They are very sensitive to scent; they rely on it to identify things. So try not to wear any perfume, strong smelling soaps, or deoderants during this phase of taming. (apologize to friends and family in advance, Ha,ha!)
please keep us informed of your progress, and perhaps post a photo or two, so we can enjoy the journey with you. You have done a very good thing for this fellow. There are no bad Beadies, only ones in bad situations! Without your intervention, this one could easily have become one of the tragedies, who are resigned to a lonely cage and ignored for their poor lives. All beardies can be rehabilitated, given the right circumstances! And each precious beardie deserves that companionship. Hopefully, he will become a sweet, cuddly friend, in due time. Good luck!