BEARDED DRAGON STARVE TO DEATH??

BeardieLover232":38r7mntj said:

how old is the dragon? young dragons aka juveniles, are very active which means they have very fast metabolism. they need to eat a lot, as dragons get older, they want to be lazy and do noting all day. that's why a lot of posters here suggest to feed them more veggies then bugs (protein).
now for the greens, it all depends on you and how big your dragon is, the simple rule. the food has to be at least the size between there eyes, no bigger.
some suggest super worms, but since he is to young he can have maybe horn worms, bananas, strawberries. << Dubias, crickets, BSFL (black soilder fly larvae) and silkworms should make up the vast majority of their young diet.
they cannot be together, i do see some females be together. it is pretty rare. Males and Males are going to fight till one is down. <<NO beardies should ever be together - it is too big a risk.
Male and female, the male is going want to breed her until she is tired and can't lay any more eggs.
female and female, it's rare. but some are going to fight with each other. <<again - no two beardies together.
bearded dragons rarely bite. they can accidently bite your finger if you are hand feeding them (is also rare). they will just puff up and then run.
on the top of the screen of bearded dragons. org. there is a user image uploader. it will tell you to select a file and upload it.
if you want to post pictures. select XIMG, and it will give you the option to select the photo you uploaded.
i hope this helps

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Ralphpet":287pcmuf said:

So I JUST got a young bearded dragon. We had a minor set back and won't be able to get food to him for 3-1/2 days. Is this okay?? <<<< NO - not if it's younger than 6 months. I was told they have to be fed at least two times a day.

Another question: I wanted to get two of them but I was adviced not to by the pet store sales associate. Is THAT true? It seems like with all that personality they would enjoy some company. I have a pretty large tank. At least three times what they have in the stores. <<<< if the tank is LARGE enough , you can partition it into two halves --- that will work.

And another question: how do I get them to eat fruits and veggies? Do I cut chunks? Squares? Mash it? Dice it? What are good, easy treats for him? <<<< I grate hard vegs, and use the food processors chopping blade to mix and chop stuff like greens and peas etc.

...and another question: I've had snakes, iguana, alligator (long story but an awesome dude) and chameleons. All of them had such great personalities, but I haven't had a small lizard, or gecho, bearded dragon what not. What kind of tempermeant do they have? <<<< they are very good pets full of personality and character and every one is a individual, and they are all indivduals and can become extremely affectionate and smoogy .
Can they bite? Meaning can they do damage?
<<<< yes and yes, but beardies would rather run than fight , I've never been bitten in anger, all my bites / nips have been my fault and entirely accidential (while hand feeding my lizards)
Do they make noise? Or "talk"?
<<<< yes but only when telling you to back off
Help! It was really short notice when we got him and no one really new what they were talking about. I was assuming its kinda like my other guys and don't need to eat everyday. My snake has gone two weeks before with out eating. Chameleons were the toughest but could manage for a few days if need be. (Don't remember exactly, it's been awhile since I've had them)
>>>hatchings need at least two meals of insects per day ,three is better.
>>>juveniles can get by with two meals of insects per day
>>>subadults 1 meal of insects per day
>>>Adults veg and greens every day and maybe a small feed of bugs (most do 2 or 3 bug meals per week) mine are spoilt = one bug meal per day + greens and veg.
ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT!
Is there a way to post pictures here?
Thanks!

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Ralphpet":1c6achxz said:

Thanks! My friend had to move to Arizona and didn't want to bring him. (Ralph) so I got him last minute. When I called the pet store, and went in, they had told me they only needed to eat once a day and just a few crickets and I could leave this paste of insect concoction which turns into a hard substance and then cut it up for them and leave it in their cage. Sounded easy enough for the time until I researched more. It's when I did, did I realize they were a little more work.
So I ended up taking a late ferry back to BI and grabbing him and taking him back to Seattle until I head home again.
Thank you everyone with your honest and great advice. I've been online doing my research, like I normally would, but the animals and critters I get in my life usually just get dumped on me with no warning. But all are taken very good care of and have lasted a longer then normal life.
Thanks again everyone!
Ralph's mommy

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Ralphpet":1wu4vhcs said:

To BeardieLove232:
(Still figuring out how to use this site. I don't do this often, if at all)
I just wanted to say thank you for your help. The one thing I did do against the wishes of the pet associates advice, was to get a big tank. It's about 3-1/2-4 feet long and 2 feet tall. I also got a night heated lamp and a day time one. Am I supposed to turn it off at night? Both lamps had pictures of bearded dragons on them, so as a sucker for marketing, I got it. Why would they tell me to get a smaller cage? I have filled it up (for now) with sand, different style rocks, a cover to hide, beach branch and two little bowls for water and food. What can I add to make it more fun? I saw one cage that actually had water in it. Do they swim? Also, I go to a mom and pop kind of pet store and they don't have meal worms. Just crickets. I will try a major chain pet store (petco petsmart) when I see one and see what they have and say. Also, what's this about giving them baths with some sort of gel? And is it okay to use olive oil for eating or to put on their skin?
Thanks again
Ralph's mama

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JessPets":1v4izajw said:

Ralphpet":1v4izajw said:

To BeardieLove232:
(Still figuring out how to use this site. I don't do this often, if at all)
I just wanted to say thank you for your help. The one thing I did do against the wishes of the pet associates advice, was to get a big tank. It's about 3-1/2-4 feet long and 2 feet tall <<<< that will be close to ideal for a full grown adult beardie (4ft x 2ft x 2ft tall), a bit overwhelming for a hatchling or juvenile (but easy partitioned to make a tank more manageable to a small / young beardie - main advantages of a smaller tank for a young / small beardie are
1) easier for it to keep track of live insects at feeding time
2) harder for the feeder insects to hide
3) easier to keep warm , but can be harder to establish a good thermal gradient
4) less overwhelming expanse for the hatchling/ juvenile
I also got a night heated lamp and a day time one. Am I supposed to turn it off at night? Both lamps had pictures of bearded dragons on them, so as a sucker for marketing,
<<< lots are sucked in by petstore knownothings into buying these "kits", you are not the last of the mohekans ,
Colourless par38 incandescent spotglobe for basking light on during days (these can be controlled by dimming thermostats) , NO LIGHTS AT NIGHT but if it gets cold in the house overnight (I'd say colder than 20degCelsius) the beardie will benefit from a ceramic heat emitter controlled by a either a dimming thermostat (not the same one as above) or a simple switching thermostat (set and forget , if its chilly during the day the thermostat controlling the ceramic heat emitter will automatically turn it on if the if the spotglobe fails .
DON"T FORGET a good 10%UVB light source (to provide UVA and UVB during the day - this is MANDATORY for a healthy beardie.
I got it. Why would they tell me to get a smaller cage? I have filled it up (for now) with sand <<< I think you need to remove the sand , the reasons are
1) the stuff sticks to insects and the beardies greens and veg (they are messy eaters) and gets ingested there the problems start if the sand can not be passed out the other end in beardie's poo - and forms a blockage in the beardie's gut - this is known as impaction - a horrible painful and long drawn out death unless the vet can clear it - and this very invasive procedure often kills the beardie
2) it's a perfect medium for the flourishing of colonies of bacteria, viruses, yeasts and fungi which is an issue in itself and will likely make the tank very unhygienic and stinky and dangerous the beardie's health.
Jess suggested better alternatives.

, different style rocks, a cover to hide, beach branch and two little bowls for water and food. What can I add to make it more fun? <<<< personally , I think enrichment is helpful to pet lizards of all kinds.
I saw one cage that actually had water in it. Do they swim?
<<< they can , some even enjoy the occasional bath, but bare in mine they are evolved for arid drought prone regions (where drought is the rule rather than the exception , a tank with large pool in it is more appropriate to Eastern , or Gippsland Water Dragons , or Chinese Water Dragons if you've never seen the Easterns and Gippsland Water Dragons , NOT for a bearded dragon of any species.
Also, I go to a mom and pop kind of pet store and they don't have meal worms. Just crickets. <<< crickets are a much better staple insect than mealworms (or superworms for that matter)
I will try a major chain pet store (petco petsmart) when I see one and see what they have and say.
<<<< I wouldn't, they will tell you BS , mostly because they are usually totally clueless
Also, what's this about giving them baths
<<<< Baths occasionally on a as needed basis
ie
1) beardie has soiled himself
2) beardie is too hot , and can't thermoregulate to about it's Preferred Body Temp (35oC) because it's very hot in the room where the tank is
3) beardie is lightly or mildly impacted , bathing with tummy rubs can help get the poo coming
4) to hydrate a beardie when it's hot - but only way bathing will help is via beardie drinking the bath water
5) to treat an open injury (with a dilute betadiene soak
It is not necessary to regularly bath a beardie , unless you have a beardie who likes an occasional bath then this will stress the beardie (many don't enjoy the bathing experience ).
with some sort of gel?
<<<< gel ? do you mean GrubPie ?
And is it okay to use olive oil for eating or to put on their skin?
<<< I never apply oils to my lizard's skink, they don't need it. I do sometimes administer 0.3 - 0.4ml of olive orally by syringe if a lizard has not been to the toilet for a week or more.
Thanks again
Ralph's mama

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They want you to buy a small tank, knowing that your beardie will outgrow it and therefore need to buy a bigger second.

Two: No lights at night AT ALL. As long as it doesn't get below 65º at night, no extra heat is needed. If it does get colder than that, you'll want a CHE (ceramic heat emitter).

Beardies don't really need anything 'fun', TBH. As far as petstores go, petco/petsmart are the wost (for the most part at least - there are a tiny sliver of exceptions).

Replace the sand ASAP. Paper towel, tile, shelf paper or newspaper (without print) are all much better options. No loose substrates.

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