Not eating and diharrea! Is this relocation stress?

Hi all, im new to thr forum just got a baby beardie 3 days ago named reptar who has stopped eating and jad diharrea. Shes in the zilla deluxe bearded dragon starter kit, which comes with 3 bulbs but im awaiting a mercury vapor bulb in the mail because i dont like that it has a coil flourescent though it claims to not have the harmful light frequency. Im not sure on temps cause some threads say cooler temps for babies so they dont dehydrate, others say warmer to promote growth, can someone clarify? Hot side is about 100 cool side 88 im using a zoomed digital thermometer the point and click kind. Day 1 reptar ate and hunted normally but not much, i hear babies can jave a huge appetite this wasnt that. Then day 2 i woke up and cleaned a solid stool but reptar wasnt catching crickets. That evening she had diharrea. I thought it was too hard to hunt in 20gal with crickets hiding in the log, but then i tried today to take her in a smaller tank for feeding to make it easy amd no dice. Today still not eating and her poop was a bit more solid but not much poop cause she stopped eating. Is this relocation stress? Cause shes a tiny baby, i have a pic next to marbles for reference but she has active energy, i couldnt get her to pose by the marbles she kept scurrying off... uhh also can anyone explain to me how i can post pictures to help? Shes like 5-6 grams
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I would shoot for a basking area between 100-110 and a cool side of about 75-80 and a nice gradient between. Which mercury vapor bulb did you order?

Give her some time to settle in. Sometimes they have diarrhea due to upset stomach and that clears up on it's own. If it continues after a couple of weeks it may be worth taking a sample to the vet to test for parasites but I'd hold off on that for now.

You can upload photos here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ and then post the images to your thread using the XIMG button.

I got the zoomed powersun uv 100w heres some pics

I popped the dehumidier in there doesnt seem to be dping much

The 100w PowerSun has an optimal UVB output between about 8-12 inches above the highest basking site (hammock perhaps?). I would mount it in that range (or build the basking area to reach that range). Then test the temps again. If you need additional heat to achieve the gradient you may want to use a low wattage ceramic heat emitter on a dimmer that can provide a temperature boost when needed.

The powersun has had an effect ive gotten basking up to 105 and removed lights from the cool side to try to lower that... but to get 105 on the hammock where shes hanging out now i have the light directly on top of the viv which im afraid is too close. I now have 81 on the cool side with a gradient up to 98 on top of the hill and 105 on the hammock

That's a good heat gradient. Do pay attention to the distance though as you want to mount the combined lights based on UVB output. You only need the highest basking area in that 8-12'' range though.

Yeah but to get the basking heat right the bulb is more like 5 inches from the hammock

Yeah that's the main downside to using the MVBs. I would keep it at 8-12'' and put a low wattage ceramic heat emitter or halogen flood light next to it. Put that on a lamp dimmer or dimming thermostat and adjust the output until you get the temperature gradient you're looking for. If you put the MVB too close, the UVB output will be quite intense and could be harmful or cause your dragon to avoid the basking site.

Ooh got it, thats no good. So for now ill raise the mvb and put the old uv heat night lamp running during the day to keep heat up. Are the night lamps bad for their third eye? Ive been thinking the ceramic must be better for sleeping. Any reccomendations on doing the dimmer setup? Ive seen the ceramic bulb at the store but dont think that comes with amy dimmer switch.

If your other bulb isn't a bright white bulb I would avoid using it. The ceramic heat emitters are nice because the produce heat without visible light. If you only have a light with a red or purple (etc) color I would try a regular household lightbulb for heat until you can get a halogen flood or a ceramic. The ceramic may dim a bit more easily. You can probably find a cheap lamp dimmer switch at a hardware store. Otherwise you could spend a bit more and get a dimming thermostat that will automatically adjust the output based on the temperature reading from a probe that goes in the tank. That's nice to have but it isn't necessary if you don't have the budget for it. A manual dimmer will just require regular temperature checks and adjustments.

Cool, so to update with more upsidedown pictures ive raised the mvb to 9 inches above the hammock, i moved the old blue basking 150w day lamp to the middle, and to the left the purple night light which i have running at night for now untill i get a ceramic heater, and i have removed the coil bulb from the setup altogether

Just an update on Reptar, she ate only 1 cricket yesterday, so what i did then and today has been putting dabs of baby food on her nose that she is licking up... gotta get somrthing in there... is there any way to gently force feed a beardie?

I wouldn't force feed. It can be stressful and wind up being harmful so I save it for dire situations. Since she is able to eat on her own if she wants to I would just continue to offer bugs. The dabs of baby food on her nose is sufficient as far as extra but I would let her dictate and not force it.

There are a few threads on the same topic (behavior, health, ER) which is a bit disorienting. If a mod sees these could you please consider a merge of the threads to consolidate the information? Thanks =)

Sorry bout that, my first time posting i wasnt sure if id even get a response. Ill try to figure out how to delete the others