Bloated, soft belly after meds?

CactusDogs":1q438qgi said:

Hi, my oldest beardie (Tamale) has an URI. I took him to the vet a week and a half ago, and she prescribed Baytril .07 cc a day, panacur .1cc for hookworms, and some powdered food/critical care stuff, mixed with water to a soupy texture. He took the panacur for 6 days (he's done with it), and has been on the baytril for 12 days so far. He will get the baytril until the 21st. He is much better, no longer gaping and huffing, no more sticky spit either. He got the powdered food stuff the first day because he hadn't eaten in a week due to the URI, and the vet said he could weigh a bit more, and needed nutrients to help him get better. He is 8 months old, 16", and 210g. Maybe a bit more, since he's been eating again.

The next day I gave him some dubia and a few super worms to see if he'd eat on his own. He did. Next day, same thing. So I didn't give him the powdered stuff anymore, because he had his appetite back and the vet said that was ok. He's been eating, but not as much as the first week. I still have it if I need it. Now his belly seems a little bloated and kinda soft when I pick him up. He poops normally, white urate with a well defined brown stool, once a day in the bath. I promptly change it because I know he can reinfect himself with hookworm via poo water if he drinks it.

Is it normal for him to have a soft, slightly larger belly when taking these meds? He looks a little bloated. How about his drop in appetite? He's also grumpy, which I can understand, after being sick and now taking medicine that he fights me on. Can I give him something to help his tummy?

<<<< I've heard this happens with oral antibiotics especially, they kill the bacteria causing teg desease and the beneficial gut flora too. result , beardie off it's food,

Some claim success using probiotics or non-dairy yohurt.

I'd be worried about the fluid buldup in his tummy - that needs addressing by the vet .

Tank is 40g breeder, he is housed alone.
Basking spots range from 100-113, he has different spots he can go to if he desires a different temp.
Cool side is 73. Temps measured with a temp gun at the appropriate distance.
UVB is a reptisun 10.0 long bulb, inside his tank. Brand new bulb, I got it right after his vet visit. He's had a reptisun 10.0 the entire time I've had him, I just know they don't last longer than a year at most.
<<< T8 or T5HO version ?
<<< how far from basking spot ?
<<< in a reflector hood ?
<<< ontop/under the mesh lid ?
<<< gold end caps ?


Basking bulb is a flukers 150 bright white spotlight bulb.
He got one logs hide, and places under his branches that he can go to to sleep or hide if he wants. I used a nonstick shelf liner for the 'substrate'. My vet is a reptile specialist, and I plan on calling her tomorrow, but if it's not an emergency, it can take her a few days to get back to me.

Click to expand...

CooperDragon":145vrvdx said:

That's a lot of meds at once. It may have is stomach feeling a bit upset so the lack of appetite isn't surprising. It should come back after a while but you could offer a probiotic which may help him feel better more quickly. http://www.bug-de-lite.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=Acidophiliz

Click to expand...

kingofnobbys":145vrvdx said:

CactusDogs":145vrvdx said:

Hi, my oldest beardie (Tamale) has an URI. I took him to the vet a week and a half ago, and she prescribed Baytril .07 cc a day, panacur .1cc for hookworms, and some powdered food/critical care stuff, mixed with water to a soupy texture. He took the panacur for 6 days (he's done with it), and has been on the baytril for 12 days so far. He will get the baytril until the 21st. He is much better, no longer gaping and huffing, no more sticky spit either. He got the powdered food stuff the first day because he hadn't eaten in a week due to the URI, and the vet said he could weigh a bit more, and needed nutrients to help him get better. He is 8 months old, 16", and 210g. Maybe a bit more, since he's been eating again.

The next day I gave him some dubia and a few super worms to see if he'd eat on his own. He did. Next day, same thing. So I didn't give him the powdered stuff anymore, because he had his appetite back and the vet said that was ok. He's been eating, but not as much as the first week. I still have it if I need it. Now his belly seems a little bloated and kinda soft when I pick him up. He poops normally, white urate with a well defined brown stool, once a day in the bath. I promptly change it because I know he can reinfect himself with hookworm via poo water if he drinks it.

Is it normal for him to have a soft, slightly larger belly when taking these meds? He looks a little bloated. How about his drop in appetite? He's also grumpy, which I can understand, after being sick and now taking medicine that he fights me on. Can I give him something to help his tummy?

<<<< I've heard this happens with oral antibiotics especially, they kill the bacteria causing teg desease and the beneficial gut flora too. result , beardie off it's food,

Some claim success using probiotics or non-dairy yohurt.

I'd be worried about the fluid buldup in his tummy - that needs addressing by the vet .

Tank is 40g breeder, he is housed alone.
Basking spots range from 100-113, he has different spots he can go to if he desires a different temp.
Cool side is 73. Temps measured with a temp gun at the appropriate distance.
UVB is a reptisun 10.0 long bulb, inside his tank. Brand new bulb, I got it right after his vet visit. He's had a reptisun 10.0 the entire time I've had him, I just know they don't last longer than a year at most.
<<< T8 or T5HO version ?
<<< how far from basking spot ?
<<< in a reflector hood ?
<<< ontop/under the mesh lid ?
<<< gold end caps ?


Basking bulb is a flukers 150 bright white spotlight bulb.
He got one logs hide, and places under his branches that he can go to to sleep or hide if he wants. I used a nonstick shelf liner for the 'substrate'. My vet is a reptile specialist, and I plan on calling her tomorrow, but if it's not an emergency, it can take her a few days to get back to me.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

CooperDragon":2nkrnf2g said:

The end cap color relates to the T5 so isn't applicable. I think the T8 is too far away though, especially without using a reflector. With a reflector they should be about 6-8'' up to be most effective. I'd either move it a bit closer and add a reflector, or upgrade to a T5 (and T5 fixture w/reflector) that will provide much higher output and be best at around 12'' or so.

Click to expand...

CactusDogs":kob5i772 said:

CooperDragon":kob5i772 said:

That's a lot of meds at once. It may have is stomach feeling a bit upset so the lack of appetite isn't surprising. It should come back after a while but you could offer a probiotic which may help him feel better more quickly. http://www.bug-de-lite.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=Acidophiliz

Click to expand...

Ok, I will get some and try it, thank you.

kingofnobbys":kob5i772 said:

CactusDogs":kob5i772 said:

Hi, my oldest beardie (Tamale) has an URI. I took him to the vet a week and a half ago, and she prescribed Baytril .07 cc a day, panacur .1cc for hookworms, and some powdered food/critical care stuff, mixed with water to a soupy texture. He took the panacur for 6 days (he's done with it), and has been on the baytril for 12 days so far. He will get the baytril until the 21st. He is much better, no longer gaping and huffing, no more sticky spit either. He got the powdered food stuff the first day because he hadn't eaten in a week due to the URI, and the vet said he could weigh a bit more, and needed nutrients to help him get better. He is 8 months old, 16", and 210g. Maybe a bit more, since he's been eating again.

The next day I gave him some dubia and a few super worms to see if he'd eat on his own. He did. Next day, same thing. So I didn't give him the powdered stuff anymore, because he had his appetite back and the vet said that was ok. He's been eating, but not as much as the first week. I still have it if I need it. Now his belly seems a little bloated and kinda soft when I pick him up. He poops normally, white urate with a well defined brown stool, once a day in the bath. I promptly change it because I know he can reinfect himself with hookworm via poo water if he drinks it.

Is it normal for him to have a soft, slightly larger belly when taking these meds? He looks a little bloated. How about his drop in appetite? He's also grumpy, which I can understand, after being sick and now taking medicine that he fights me on. Can I give him something to help his tummy?

<<<< I've heard this happens with oral antibiotics especially, they kill the bacteria causing teg desease and the beneficial gut flora too. result , beardie off it's food,

Some claim success using probiotics or non-dairy yohurt.

I'd be worried about the fluid buldup in his tummy - that needs addressing by the vet .

Tank is 40g breeder, he is housed alone.
Basking spots range from 100-113, he has different spots he can go to if he desires a different temp.
Cool side is 73. Temps measured with a temp gun at the appropriate distance.
UVB is a reptisun 10.0 long bulb, inside his tank. Brand new bulb, I got it right after his vet visit. He's had a reptisun 10.0 the entire time I've had him, I just know they don't last longer than a year at most.
<<< T8 or T5HO version ?
<<< how far from basking spot ?
<<< in a reflector hood ?
<<< ontop/under the mesh lid ?
<<< gold end caps ?


Basking bulb is a flukers 150 bright white spotlight bulb.
He got one logs hide, and places under his branches that he can go to to sleep or hide if he wants. I used a nonstick shelf liner for the 'substrate'. My vet is a reptile specialist, and I plan on calling her tomorrow, but if it's not an emergency, it can take her a few days to get back to me.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

It's a T8, about 10" from basking spot. It is in an under the counter fixture I got at king soopers for fluorescent bulbs.

Definitely not enough UVA & UVB as it stands because :.
<< no reflector behind the T8 10% tube ,
<< I hope there is no acrylic screen covering the tube (it will block 100% of the UV)
<< at 10 inches , it's WAY TO FAR away to deliver useful doses of UVA & UVB , as it stands , your dragon will be lucky if it's getting 50 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking and will be getting considerably less (essentially zero UV elsewhere) ,
see
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

it needs to be under 2 inches away (which is impractical) to provide 180 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking spot , add an Arcadia slip on reflector will double the UV ,
http://arcadia-reptile.com/fluorescent-lamp-reflectors-t5t8/

but even then (when there is a reflectors behind the tube) the basking spot will need to about 6 inches to the basking spot.


It is UNDER the mesh hood, I've read that the mesh blocks out like 50% of the UVB, and everyone on here says it needs to be mounted inside. And I'm not quite sure what gold end caps are, could you elaborate a bit? I will try to get some pictures of his bulbs and set up, as well as his belly before I go to work.

Click to expand...

kingofnobbys":2a7xmc8c said:

CactusDogs":2a7xmc8c said:

CooperDragon":2a7xmc8c said:

That's a lot of meds at once. It may have is stomach feeling a bit upset so the lack of appetite isn't surprising. It should come back after a while but you could offer a probiotic which may help him feel better more quickly. http://www.bug-de-lite.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=Acidophiliz

Click to expand...

Ok, I will get some and try it, thank you.

kingofnobbys":2a7xmc8c said:

CactusDogs":2a7xmc8c said:

Hi, my oldest beardie (Tamale) has an URI. I took him to the vet a week and a half ago, and she prescribed Baytril .07 cc a day, panacur .1cc for hookworms, and some powdered food/critical care stuff, mixed with water to a soupy texture. He took the panacur for 6 days (he's done with it), and has been on the baytril for 12 days so far. He will get the baytril until the 21st. He is much better, no longer gaping and huffing, no more sticky spit either. He got the powdered food stuff the first day because he hadn't eaten in a week due to the URI, and the vet said he could weigh a bit more, and needed nutrients to help him get better. He is 8 months old, 16", and 210g. Maybe a bit more, since he's been eating again.

The next day I gave him some dubia and a few super worms to see if he'd eat on his own. He did. Next day, same thing. So I didn't give him the powdered stuff anymore, because he had his appetite back and the vet said that was ok. He's been eating, but not as much as the first week. I still have it if I need it. Now his belly seems a little bloated and kinda soft when I pick him up. He poops normally, white urate with a well defined brown stool, once a day in the bath. I promptly change it because I know he can reinfect himself with hookworm via poo water if he drinks it.

Is it normal for him to have a soft, slightly larger belly when taking these meds? He looks a little bloated. How about his drop in appetite? He's also grumpy, which I can understand, after being sick and now taking medicine that he fights me on. Can I give him something to help his tummy?

<<<< I've heard this happens with oral antibiotics especially, they kill the bacteria causing teg desease and the beneficial gut flora too. result , beardie off it's food,

Some claim success using probiotics or non-dairy yohurt.

I'd be worried about the fluid buldup in his tummy - that needs addressing by the vet .

Tank is 40g breeder, he is housed alone.
Basking spots range from 100-113, he has different spots he can go to if he desires a different temp.
Cool side is 73. Temps measured with a temp gun at the appropriate distance.
UVB is a reptisun 10.0 long bulb, inside his tank. Brand new bulb, I got it right after his vet visit. He's had a reptisun 10.0 the entire time I've had him, I just know they don't last longer than a year at most.
<<< T8 or T5HO version ?
<<< how far from basking spot ?
<<< in a reflector hood ?
<<< ontop/under the mesh lid ?
<<< gold end caps ?


Basking bulb is a flukers 150 bright white spotlight bulb.
He got one logs hide, and places under his branches that he can go to to sleep or hide if he wants. I used a nonstick shelf liner for the 'substrate'. My vet is a reptile specialist, and I plan on calling her tomorrow, but if it's not an emergency, it can take her a few days to get back to me.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

It's a T8, about 10" from basking spot. It is in an under the counter fixture I got at king soopers for fluorescent bulbs.

Definitely not enough UVA & UVB as it stands because :.
<< no reflector behind the T8 10% tube ,
<< I hope there is no acrylic screen covering the tube (it will block 100% of the UV)
<< at 10 inches , it's WAY TO FAR away to deliver useful doses of UVA & UVB , as it stands , your dragon will be lucky if it's getting 50 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking and will be getting considerably less (essentially zero UV elsewhere) ,
see
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

it needs to be under 2 inches away (which is impractical) to provide 180 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking spot , add an Arcadia slip on reflector will double the UV ,
http://arcadia-reptile.com/fluorescent-lamp-reflectors-t5t8/

but even then (when there is a reflectors behind the tube) the basking spot will need to about 6 inches to the basking spot.


It is UNDER the mesh hood, I've read that the mesh blocks out like 50% of the UVB, and everyone on here says it needs to be mounted inside. And I'm not quite sure what gold end caps are, could you elaborate a bit? I will try to get some pictures of his bulbs and set up, as well as his belly before I go to work.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

CactusDogs":2hqtv3u3 said:

kingofnobbys":2hqtv3u3 said:

CactusDogs":2hqtv3u3 said:

CooperDragon":2hqtv3u3 said:

That's a lot of meds at once. It may have is stomach feeling a bit upset so the lack of appetite isn't surprising. It should come back after a while but you could offer a probiotic which may help him feel better more quickly. http://www.bug-de-lite.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=Acidophiliz

Click to expand...

Ok, I will get some and try it, thank you.

kingofnobbys":2hqtv3u3 said:

CactusDogs":2hqtv3u3 said:

Hi, my oldest beardie (Tamale) has an URI. I took him to the vet a week and a half ago, and she prescribed Baytril .07 cc a day, panacur .1cc for hookworms, and some powdered food/critical care stuff, mixed with water to a soupy texture. He took the panacur for 6 days (he's done with it), and has been on the baytril for 12 days so far. He will get the baytril until the 21st. He is much better, no longer gaping and huffing, no more sticky spit either. He got the powdered food stuff the first day because he hadn't eaten in a week due to the URI, and the vet said he could weigh a bit more, and needed nutrients to help him get better. He is 8 months old, 16", and 210g. Maybe a bit more, since he's been eating again.

The next day I gave him some dubia and a few super worms to see if he'd eat on his own. He did. Next day, same thing. So I didn't give him the powdered stuff anymore, because he had his appetite back and the vet said that was ok. He's been eating, but not as much as the first week. I still have it if I need it. Now his belly seems a little bloated and kinda soft when I pick him up. He poops normally, white urate with a well defined brown stool, once a day in the bath. I promptly change it because I know he can reinfect himself with hookworm via poo water if he drinks it.

Is it normal for him to have a soft, slightly larger belly when taking these meds? He looks a little bloated. How about his drop in appetite? He's also grumpy, which I can understand, after being sick and now taking medicine that he fights me on. Can I give him something to help his tummy?

<<<< I've heard this happens with oral antibiotics especially, they kill the bacteria causing teg desease and the beneficial gut flora too. result , beardie off it's food,

Some claim success using probiotics or non-dairy yohurt.

I'd be worried about the fluid buldup in his tummy - that needs addressing by the vet .

Tank is 40g breeder, he is housed alone.
Basking spots range from 100-113, he has different spots he can go to if he desires a different temp.
Cool side is 73. Temps measured with a temp gun at the appropriate distance.
UVB is a reptisun 10.0 long bulb, inside his tank. Brand new bulb, I got it right after his vet visit. He's had a reptisun 10.0 the entire time I've had him, I just know they don't last longer than a year at most.
<<< T8 or T5HO version ?
<<< how far from basking spot ?
<<< in a reflector hood ?
<<< ontop/under the mesh lid ?
<<< gold end caps ?


Basking bulb is a flukers 150 bright white spotlight bulb.
He got one logs hide, and places under his branches that he can go to to sleep or hide if he wants. I used a nonstick shelf liner for the 'substrate'. My vet is a reptile specialist, and I plan on calling her tomorrow, but if it's not an emergency, it can take her a few days to get back to me.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

It's a T8, about 10" from basking spot. It is in an under the counter fixture I got at king soopers for fluorescent bulbs.

Definitely not enough UVA & UVB as it stands because :.
<< no reflector behind the T8 10% tube ,
<< I hope there is no acrylic screen covering the tube (it will block 100% of the UV)
<< at 10 inches , it's WAY TO FAR away to deliver useful doses of UVA & UVB , as it stands , your dragon will be lucky if it's getting 50 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking and will be getting considerably less (essentially zero UV elsewhere) ,
see
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

it needs to be under 2 inches away (which is impractical) to provide 180 microW UVB / sq.cm at the basking spot , add an Arcadia slip on reflector will double the UV ,
http://arcadia-reptile.com/fluorescent-lamp-reflectors-t5t8/

but even then (when there is a reflectors behind the tube) the basking spot will need to about 6 inches to the basking spot.


It is UNDER the mesh hood, I've read that the mesh blocks out like 50% of the UVB, and everyone on here says it needs to be mounted inside. And I'm not quite sure what gold end caps are, could you elaborate a bit? I will try to get some pictures of his bulbs and set up, as well as his belly before I go to work.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I took the plastic cover off when I bought it, so there is nothing between the bulb and the dragon. I have been told he needs a T8 and not a T5, but which is better for dragons? Ive been told T5 is for tropical reptiles. I have moved his basking places to be within 6 inches, I will have to either buy a new bulb (if the T5 is better) or that reflector Friday. It was closer in the 20g, I thought maybe too close but I guess not.

I called the vet to ask, they said they needed to see him and it was an emergency, but her tone changed when I asked if I could pay Friday when I get paid, she said no, they will only see him if I pay today. Suddenly it wasn't an emergency. I have spent 600$ in the last two weeks for vet bills for him and my dog, all in cash. :? I guess I know what their priorities are, so I'll be looking for a new vet.

<<< pretty bad way for a vet to respond IMO.
<<< me thinks they have you tagged as a good cash cow , I'd be wondering now how much of that expense was actually needed and not just a ripoff.



I gave him a warm bath, he pooed, and his belly seemed to go down a bit. He did pass quite a bit of gas in the tub too, so I'm wondering if he's got gas. But what can cause that in dragons? He hasn't eaten any typically gassy foods.
<<< bet you and he were both glad to offload that one and the gas buildup .... excessive gas build up in the gut can be very uncomfortable / even painful , could perhaps be dietary due to the meds and wrong kind of bacteria flourishing in his gut now.

Click to expand...

<<< pretty bad way for a vet to respond IMO.
<<< me thinks they have you tagged as a good cash cow , I'd be wondering now how much of that expense was actually needed and not just a ripoff.

Click to expand...

CooperDragon":185f9khd said:

You're thinking of the 5.0 model (vs 10.0 model) being tropical/shade. That is different than the bulb size (T5, T8, etc). Your T8 is older technology and lower output so it should be 6-8'' away while a T5 will be higher output and should sit 12-14'' away. I prefer using the T5 in most cases due to the higher output and longer lifespan. Neither of the bulb types produce much heat and don't pose a risk to plastic.

Click to expand...

CactusDogs":1330ek9k said:

<<< pretty bad way for a vet to respond IMO.
<<< me thinks they have you tagged as a good cash cow , I'd be wondering now how much of that expense was actually needed and not just a ripoff.

Click to expand...

I take my dog to a different vet, fortunately. But his was 250$ alone, so you are probably right. But there are only three vets in my city who specialize in reptiles, and they were the only ones who had an app. Within the week. He was feeling pretty bad with the uri, they also had the lowest office visit cost (because they over charge for everything else!)but I won't go back.

And what kingofknobbies said about the gas, yes, very much. He isn't so bloated now, I just got off work and checked in on him, but he looks a bit better, I'm looking for nondairy yogurt to help his tummy till I get paid friday and can afford the probiotic drops for him.

CooperDragon":1330ek9k said:

You're thinking of the 5.0 model (vs 10.0 model) being tropical/shade. That is different than the bulb size (T5, T8, etc). Your T8 is older technology and lower output so it should be 6-8'' away while a T5 will be higher output and should sit 12-14'' away. I prefer using the T5 in most cases due to the higher output and longer lifespan. Neither of the bulb types produce much heat and don't pose a risk to plastic.

Click to expand...

Ohhhh, ok, I see now. I will replace it promptly. I've read (since today) the T5 can go on top of the screen, or is that still a bad idea? And is a power sun bulb good or bad, the reptile store here says it's good, but I'm not sure.

>>> some say it's OK with a 10%-12% UVB t5HO in a reflector hood , but IMO considered opinion based in the some science it's best to mount under the mesh , because the mesh will block between 30% to 40% of the UV
ref 1
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235210&p=1809330#p1809330
ref 2
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235611

Thanks everyone, for the help by the way, I really appreciate it.

Click to expand...

CooperDragon":31ax4j4x said:

Yeah the T5 in a fixture w/reflector can go on top. The screen will intercept some of the output (varies depending on how fine the mesh is) but it should still provide plenty of UVB at 12'' (maybe have some areas closer to 10'' or so for a bit extra).

PowerSun is a decent mercury vapor bulb. The issue with them is that they need to be mounted based on UVB output (8-12'' for the 100w and 12-16'' for the 160w) so they may not produce a proper heat gradient. It's tough to not be able to control the heat independently from the UVB in the main tank but mercury vapor bulbs work really well as portable basking spots for outside the tank and as travel lights.

Click to expand...