Keep seeing posts where folks have been given poor advise about suitable temperatures and suitable relative humidity in the vivs.
Yes at night when the basking light is turned off , and as things cool , humidity in the viv will increase.
It's perfectly OK if the relative humidity is under 80% .
I rarely see relative humidities outside the range 50% - 80% inside my home in summer even with the aircon running 24/7.
I know folks who successfully keep and breed bearded dragons who live in Cairns (far north coastal)Queensland and Darwin (Northern Territory) where there are only two seasons
- The Wet (very hot and very humid tropical = cyclone/hurricane season and thunderstorms roll in every afternoon and dump inches of rain)
- The Dry (warm and dry , winter).
Is winter here (NSW) and 41% relative humidity in my house now 11:30pm (reverse cycle aircon on 24/7) .... not anything to worry about.
My beardies get night time temps at 24oC , is maybe 10oC outside right now.
In summer I run the aircon 24/7 and try to maintain about 24 - 26oC in the house overnight, might be 36oC and super muggy outside overnight (this happens lots here - subtropical coastal ).
My beardies each have a 7W heatpad in their vivs (which is sandwiched between two layers of ceramic tiles and controlled to hold 36-37oC by a simple switching thermostat and these are under their jumbo hubbahuts , and they love their warm beds.
Daytime - I set my beardies' vivs to get a basking spot at about 40oC, and warm zone about 33-35oC.
May just be relocation stress?
or the storms upsetting him ?
or maybe he's a nightowl/midnight raider - my beardies were both known to wake up and go looking for nibbles or just to watch TV on the sly sometimes as late as 1am as hatchlings .
My suggestions are :
Stop waking him up overnight to turn on the dehumidifier.
Cut back on the baths (unless he really enjoys his baths) , you are
bathing way too frequently..
If Mushu is have problems settling it is worth going through your husbandry and setup very thoroughly to determine if there is an issue that can be easily fixed, noobs often get poor advise from the sellers (petshops, prior owners, even some breeders) .
A common mistake is cohabitation (if sharing tank or can see another beardie) , even if he can see another beardie , or a snake or very large lizard ?
Are there other pets (cats, dogs ) in the household ?
And details of your feeding schedule and other husbandry aspects .Might be a very easy fix .
Photos of the tank and showing substrate and lighting and of the beardie will help too. Use XIMG button to upload photos from your computer.
How heavy is he ?
...... recommend weighing him regularly (weekly say)?
Can you give us a good rundown on the setup and schedules (light and feeding) :
Basking light
........ is it a coloured globe ? (BAD)
........ what is it's wattage ?
........ how far from the basking spot ?
TEMPERATURES ?
>>> daytime
.......warm zone
.......basking spot
...... how are you measuring your temperatures ?
TOO COLD = SLEEPY DRAGON
>>> overnight minimum viv temperatures ?
UVA AND UVB ADEQUATE ?
>>> is the uv rated AT LEAST 10%UVB ?
>>> is it a COMPACT (curly globe & WATTAGE ?
>>> or a T8 tube ?
>>> or a T5 tube ?
>>> or an MVB ?
VERY IMPORTANT : what is the brand ?
(not all UVB compacts and tubes are created equal or as well , many shops sell their own brand (Zilla, All Living Things, Reptile-One, Nat Geo , Natural Selections (in green boxes) which are cheap Chinese clones made very cheaply using very poor quality quartz glass and cheap phosphors ==> very poor UV spectrum produced incl UVC band and bad parts of the UVB band)
>>> also is it covered (in a domestic fluorescent light fitting )? == BAD
>>> also is it sitting ontop a mesh top ? == BAD
>>> how far from basking spot ?
too far and the UVA and UVB WILL BE TOO DILUTE.
UVA FLUX TOO LOW where dragon is ==> a very lethargic dragon w/ a very poor apetite just in the short term , and neurological problems if this persists , not to mention MVB if UVB flux too low long enough with inadequate metabolisation of dietary calcium or inadequate intake out calcium
TANK
>>> size (L x W x H) and construction , photos of the setup are often helpful .
SUBSTRATE ?
>>> is it sand ? == BAD AND IF CALCISAND this is EXTREMELY BAD/LETHAL when ingested
>>> is it particulate ? == BAD
SHARING TANK ? == BAD
TOO SHORT A PHOTOPERIOD (lights are not kept on long enough each day , will make beardie think it is winter , recommend at least 14 HRS PER DAY)
FEEDING SCHEDULE (I recommend at least 2 hrs lights/heat on before first live feed and after last feed of the day)
>>> when are you offering live feeder insects ? what are they ? how big are they ?
>>> when are you offering greens and other veg ? what are you offering ?
good guide is here :
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html