Very worried

Status
Not open for further replies.
I got a baby beardie for Christmas, and all has been pretty good since then, but she has been acting very strange lately. She has a styrofoam Rock wall in her tank that she always hides on top of. When she is in her tank, she get so dark, her underside is pretty much grey! Then when I take her out with much difficulty (I try to handle her everyday, yet she still doesn't really seem to like me :( as she runs away every time I touch her) she brightens up quickly. On the top of her wall, there's not much room to strectch up, so she just lays flat, but then on her rock, she does the same thing, and just looks sad. She normally puts her head up. Also, sometimes when I hold her she will be still for ages, then quickly tries to 'escape' . She has taken a few tiny falls, but still seems ok physically. I'm sorry if all of this is gibberish, but I'm just trying to include all the details. I just want to look after her properly!
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
BamBamOpal":2ishiwjf said:
I got a baby beardie for Christmas, and all has been pretty good since then, but she has been acting very strange lately. She has a styrofoam Rock wall in her tank that she always hides on top of. When she is in her tank, she get so dark, her underside is pretty much grey! <<<< I think perhaps without seeing her and the tank and lighting setup she's getting too cold.

Likely reasons
=== I assume you have one of those modified fish tanks so common in the USA which comes with a mesh screen top ==> mesh / screen tops are not good as they do nothing to hold the warm in the terrarium where you and your hatchling need it, basically warm air created by the basking globe is very buoyant and rises being lost immediately through the screen / mesh , this makes it very hard to maintain a good stable thermal air circulation and thermal gradient in the tank,
=== easily fixed by removing the mesh/screen top and replacing it with a solid timber (1/2in thick plywood is excellent and many hardware shops will arrange precutting for a small fee to your specs) ,the solid timber top will do the following :
--- it will insulate the tank from outside conditions
--- it will force the warmed air inside the tank to circulate creating a nice stable gradient
--- it will mean you don't need as many watts in the basking globe to achieve the same basking spot and warm zone temperatures
--- it will be animal proof (other pets)
--- it will provide an excellent mounting platform from which to mount the UV light fixture and basking light and CHE fixture (if you are using one) , all can be fixed / mounted under the "lid"


Then when I take her out with much difficulty (I try to handle her everyday, yet she still doesn't really seem to like me :( as she runs away every time I touch her) she brightens up quickly. <<<< she's not sure if she likes being handled yet or if she really trusts you, this will come with time and patience. I find a great way to build a strong / trusting relationships with a lizard is to handfeed it some of it's live insects daily while nursing and petting it and talking quietly and calmy and reassuringly to it . ie with Peppa and Toothless initially I restricted handling to a maybe 5-10min per day and made a ritual and routine of getting them out first thing before feeding them, placing them into small tub while I spot cleaned and caught any remaining hiding crickets , then I'd lift them out place them on my chest so they are facing me, and I'd have 2 - 3 crickets ready with their heads squashed (to immobilize them and make some cricket inards come out, I'd pull off a hopper leg and have the cricket inbetween my finger tips while I slipped the thick end of "drumstick" between the hatchling's side lips (side is easier as they see the food item, and it's easier to slip it through the lips and teeth there) when hatchling is chewing the "drumstick" / timing is important I'd present the head end of the cricket to the side of the mouth and usually it's eaten promptly by the hatchling, repeat this for each of "bonding" insects , then I'd gently deposit the hatchling back into it's tank and give it 3 - 4 crickets at a time so I don't overwhelm it.
I found they both liked small (mealworm sized) silkworms and only needed place the worm on my shirt where they could see and reach it and it usually promptly disappeared into their mouth. Nom nom nom ...!
On the top of her wall, there's not much room to strectch up, so she just lays flat, but then on her rock, she does the same thing, and just looks sad. She normally puts her head up. <<< normal behaviour Also, sometimes when I hold her she will be still for ages, then quickly tries to 'escape' . <<<< normal for a hatchling, she's more likely spotted something she wants to explore or investigate , if you place her on your tummy /chest within the weight of the left wrist resting on the think part of her tail this will "discourage her from suddenly leaping off/dashing off , thing with very young hatchlings is they only have two speeds = stop and warp10.
She has taken a few tiny falls, but still seems ok physically. <<< how far onto what ? is best to only hold the hatchling when you sitting on the bed, on the floor, or on a nice soft lounge , this way if they take a fall it's not very far and onto a surface with some give in it , best not to walk about with beardies on the shoulder, chest, top of the your head , as they can move fast and will land hard (often on a hard unforgiving floor surface and this has the real potential to cause serious injuries to them. I'm sorry if all of this is gibberish, but I'm just trying to include all the details. I just want to look after her properly!

can you also tell us (show us in photos) her set up :
tank size (L x W x H)
her basking light type and wattage
her UV light (wattage, type (coil, T5 tube, T8 tube or MVB)) and how far from her basking spot is it
her feeding schedule and what you feeding her each meal (ie what size and type of LIVE insects and are they dusted with calcium powder and gutloaded (what are feeding the insects to gut load them))
her lighting schedule = when are lights turned on ? off ?
her bedding
her basking spot temp (how did you measure it?)
her daytime warm zone temp
her daytime cool zone temp

are you warming her tank o/night ? how ? what o/night temps is she experiencing ?
 

BamBamOpal

Member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":81os1a0p said:
BamBamOpal":81os1a0p said:
I got a baby beardie for Christmas, and all has been pretty good since then, but she has been acting very strange lately. She has a styrofoam Rock wall in her tank that she always hides on top of. When she is in her tank, she get so dark, her underside is pretty much grey! <<<< I think perhaps without seeing her and the tank and lighting setup she's getting too cold.

Likely reasons
=== I assume you have one of those modified fish tanks so common in the USA which comes with a mesh screen top ==> mesh / screen tops are not good as they do nothing to hold the warm in the terrarium where you and your hatchling need it, basically warm air created by the basking globe is very buoyant and rises being lost immediately through the screen / mesh , this makes it very hard to maintain a good stable thermal air circulation and thermal gradient in the tank,
=== easily fixed by removing the mesh/screen top and replacing it with a solid timber (1/2in thick plywood is excellent and many hardware shops will arrange precutting for a small fee to your specs) ,the solid timber top will do the following :
--- it will insulate the tank from outside conditions
--- it will force the warmed air inside the tank to circulate creating a nice stable gradient
--- it will mean you don't need as many watts in the basking globe to achieve the same basking spot and warm zone temperatures
--- it will be animal proof (other pets)
--- it will provide an excellent mounting platform from which to mount the UV light fixture and basking light and CHE fixture (if you are using one) , all can be fixed / mounted under the "lid"


Then when I take her out with much difficulty (I try to handle her everyday, yet she still doesn't really seem to like me :( as she runs away every time I touch her) she brightens up quickly. <<<< she's not sure if she likes being handled yet or if she really trusts you, this will come with time and patience. I find a great way to build a strong / trusting relationships with a lizard is to handfeed it some of it's live insects daily while nursing and petting it and talking quietly and calmy and reassuringly to it . ie with Peppa and Toothless initially I restricted handling to a maybe 5-10min per day and made a ritual and routine of getting them out first thing before feeding them, placing them into small tub while I spot cleaned and caught any remaining hiding crickets , then I'd lift them out place them on my chest so they are facing me, and I'd have 2 - 3 crickets ready with their heads squashed (to immobilize them and make some cricket inards come out, I'd pull off a hopper leg and have the cricket inbetween my finger tips while I slipped the thick end of "drumstick" between the hatchling's side lips (side is easier as they see the food item, and it's easier to slip it through the lips and teeth there) when hatchling is chewing the "drumstick" / timing is important I'd present the head end of the cricket to the side of the mouth and usually it's eaten promptly by the hatchling, repeat this for each of "bonding" insects , then I'd gently deposit the hatchling back into it's tank and give it 3 - 4 crickets at a time so I don't overwhelm it.
I found they both liked small (mealworm sized) silkworms and only needed place the worm on my shirt where they could see and reach it and it usually promptly disappeared into their mouth. Nom nom nom ...!
On the top of her wall, there's not much room to strectch up, so she just lays flat, but then on her rock, she does the same thing, and just looks sad. She normally puts her head up. <<< normal behaviour Also, sometimes when I hold her she will be still for ages, then quickly tries to 'escape' . <<<< normal for a hatchling, she's more likely spotted something she wants to explore or investigate , if you place her on your tummy /chest within the weight of the left wrist resting on the think part of her tail this will "discourage her from suddenly leaping off/dashing off , thing with very young hatchlings is they only have two speeds = stop and warp10.
She has taken a few tiny falls, but still seems ok physically. <<< how far onto what ? is best to only hold the hatchling when you sitting on the bed, on the floor, or on a nice soft lounge , this way if they take a fall it's not very far and onto a surface with some give in it , best not to walk about with beardies on the shoulder, chest, top of the your head , as they can move fast and will land hard (often on a hard unforgiving floor surface and this has the real potential to cause serious injuries to them. I'm sorry if all of this is gibberish, but I'm just trying to include all the details. I just want to look after her properly!

can you also tell us (show us in photos) her set up :
tank size (L x W x H)
her basking light type and wattage
her UV light (wattage, type (coil, T5 tube, T8 tube or MVB)) and how far from her basking spot is it
her feeding schedule and what you feeding her each meal (ie what size and type of LIVE insects and are they dusted with calcium powder and gutloaded (what are feeding the insects to gut load them))
her lighting schedule = when are lights turned on ? off ?
her bedding
her basking spot temp (how did you measure it?)
her daytime warm zone temp
her daytime cool zone temp

are you warming her tank o/night ? how ? what o/night temps is she experiencing ?

Ok, first things first, I live in Australia. Her tank is a large aquarium without the glass top that comes with it. We cut a thick mesh screen thing to size and placed it on top. Her heat lamp and uvb light are placed on top. The only way to access the inside is from the top. She fell from my hand onto some soft carpet while I was sitting on a short stool. I can't answer all the questions as I'm not home, but I feed her 7 crickets dusted in a vitamin/calcium powder twice a day. (Give or take a few crickets) and some salad/or vitamin pellets softened with water. She loves carrots and butternut pumpkin. Her bedding is paper towel, but I have some reptile bedding at hand if that's better. The experienced reptile place we got her and most of her stuff has ordered a thermometer for me but it has not arrived.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
BamBamOpal":4b0mymo5 said:
kingofnobbys":4b0mymo5 said:
BamBamOpal":4b0mymo5 said:
I got a baby beardie for Christmas, and all has been pretty good since then, but she has been acting very strange lately. She has a styrofoam Rock wall in her tank that she always hides on top of. When she is in her tank, she get so dark, her underside is pretty much grey! <<<< I think perhaps without seeing her and the tank and lighting setup she's getting too cold.

Likely reasons
=== I assume you have one of those modified fish tanks so common in the USA which comes with a mesh screen top ==> mesh / screen tops are not good as they do nothing to hold the warm in the terrarium where you and your hatchling need it, basically warm air created by the basking globe is very buoyant and rises being lost immediately through the screen / mesh , this makes it very hard to maintain a good stable thermal air circulation and thermal gradient in the tank,
=== easily fixed by removing the mesh/screen top and replacing it with a solid timber (1/2in thick plywood is excellent and many hardware shops will arrange precutting for a small fee to your specs) ,the solid timber top will do the following :
--- it will insulate the tank from outside conditions
--- it will force the warmed air inside the tank to circulate creating a nice stable gradient
--- it will mean you don't need as many watts in the basking globe to achieve the same basking spot and warm zone temperatures
--- it will be animal proof (other pets)
--- it will provide an excellent mounting platform from which to mount the UV light fixture and basking light and CHE fixture (if you are using one) , all can be fixed / mounted under the "lid"


Then when I take her out with much difficulty (I try to handle her everyday, yet she still doesn't really seem to like me :( as she runs away every time I touch her) she brightens up quickly. <<<< she's not sure if she likes being handled yet or if she really trusts you, this will come with time and patience. I find a great way to build a strong / trusting relationships with a lizard is to handfeed it some of it's live insects daily while nursing and petting it and talking quietly and calmy and reassuringly to it . ie with Peppa and Toothless initially I restricted handling to a maybe 5-10min per day and made a ritual and routine of getting them out first thing before feeding them, placing them into small tub while I spot cleaned and caught any remaining hiding crickets , then I'd lift them out place them on my chest so they are facing me, and I'd have 2 - 3 crickets ready with their heads squashed (to immobilize them and make some cricket inards come out, I'd pull off a hopper leg and have the cricket inbetween my finger tips while I slipped the thick end of "drumstick" between the hatchling's side lips (side is easier as they see the food item, and it's easier to slip it through the lips and teeth there) when hatchling is chewing the "drumstick" / timing is important I'd present the head end of the cricket to the side of the mouth and usually it's eaten promptly by the hatchling, repeat this for each of "bonding" insects , then I'd gently deposit the hatchling back into it's tank and give it 3 - 4 crickets at a time so I don't overwhelm it.
I found they both liked small (mealworm sized) silkworms and only needed place the worm on my shirt where they could see and reach it and it usually promptly disappeared into their mouth. Nom nom nom ...!
On the top of her wall, there's not much room to strectch up, so she just lays flat, but then on her rock, she does the same thing, and just looks sad. She normally puts her head up. <<< normal behaviour Also, sometimes when I hold her she will be still for ages, then quickly tries to 'escape' . <<<< normal for a hatchling, she's more likely spotted something she wants to explore or investigate , if you place her on your tummy /chest within the weight of the left wrist resting on the think part of her tail this will "discourage her from suddenly leaping off/dashing off , thing with very young hatchlings is they only have two speeds = stop and warp10.
She has taken a few tiny falls, but still seems ok physically. <<< how far onto what ? is best to only hold the hatchling when you sitting on the bed, on the floor, or on a nice soft lounge , this way if they take a fall it's not very far and onto a surface with some give in it , best not to walk about with beardies on the shoulder, chest, top of the your head , as they can move fast and will land hard (often on a hard unforgiving floor surface and this has the real potential to cause serious injuries to them. I'm sorry if all of this is gibberish, but I'm just trying to include all the details. I just want to look after her properly!

can you also tell us (show us in photos) her set up :
tank size (L x W x H)
her basking light type and wattage
her UV light (wattage, type (coil, T5 tube, T8 tube or MVB)) and how far from her basking spot is it
her feeding schedule and what you feeding her each meal (ie what size and type of LIVE insects and are they dusted with calcium powder and gutloaded (what are feeding the insects to gut load them))
her lighting schedule = when are lights turned on ? off ?
her bedding
her basking spot temp (how did you measure it?)
her daytime warm zone temp
her daytime cool zone temp

are you warming her tank o/night ? how ? what o/night temps is she experiencing ?

Ok, first things first, I live in Australia. Her tank is a large aquarium without the glass top that comes with it. We cut a thick mesh screen thing to size and placed it on top.
<<< I'd set the mest top aside, and have Bunnings provide some 15mm plywood cut to size, if you go their trade desk they are more than happy to cut the plywood to your specs for a small fee per cut.
The plywood will provide a better thermal barrier (hold the heat in better) and will help create a stable thermal circulation and thermal gradient.
Some of the mesh can be used to cover a couple of slits cut in the plywood top (maybe 1/2 the width of the tank long x 1" wide (slit) one at the cool end , other at the warm end - to promote some air exchange and simply place some offcuts from the mesh over the slits), you'll also need a door opening in the plywood lid.
The UV lamp fitting can be hung under the plywood lid as can the high temperature ceramic basking light fitting (this will bring both the basking and UV lights closer to beardie's basking spot and the "floor", all good to have.
Her heat lamp and uvb light are placed on top. <<< the mesh will block over 25% of the UVA and UVB.
Another reason to get rid of the mesh top and replace it with a solid timber top.
The only way to access the inside is from the top.
<<< ANOTHER OPTION is to sit the tank on it's long side, and get some plywood cut to side to fit under the top and have a glasier cut some cable holes in the new top (was one the sides) to be able to get cables for the light fittings in as well some slip in air vents (available from Bunnings), and get some glasier to cut and fit two sliding front glass doors .
Lots of us use these tracks for our sliding glass enclosure doors http://cowdroy.com.au/product/p02624-plastic-track-set , avail from Bunnings or Mitre10 or direct from Cowdroy .

She fell from my hand onto some soft carpet while I was sitting on a short stool. I can't answer all the questions as I'm not home, but I feed her 7 crickets dusted in a vitamin/calcium powder twice a day. (Give or take a few crickets) and some salad/or vitamin pellets softened with water. She loves carrots and butternut pumpkin.><<< Always a bonus if your little hatchling likes it's greens and grated or finely chopped vegs, BUT, it's crucial it get LOTS of high quality live insects AT LEAST TWICE per day, THREE TIMES per day is optimal if younger than 4 months (but not always practical to give three live insect meals per day. I do suggest giving the salad AFTER his had his second live insect meal , so he doesn't pig out on salad and have no room for his important live bugs. I recommend you try some buk choi ( the younger plants leaves are sweeter and my lizards all love buk choi greens - I don't usually give the hard white stem end of the leaves.
Her bedding is paper towel, but I have some reptile bedding at hand if that's better.<<< all mine are on paper towel, and a mix of loosely laid floor tiles and paper tiles. If you mean reptile bedding as being sand or "Kritters' Crumble" , I'd advise not using either these. (impaction risk if accidentially eaten ESPECIALLY WITH HATCHLINGS AND YOUNG DRAGONS.). The experienced reptile place we got her and most of her stuff has ordered a thermometer for me but it has not arrived.
 

BamBamOpal

Member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":1luyk0zg said:
BamBamOpal":1luyk0zg said:
kingofnobbys":1luyk0zg said:
BamBamOpal":1luyk0zg said:
I got a baby beardie for Christmas, and all has been pretty good since then, but she has been acting very strange lately. She has a styrofoam Rock wall in her tank that she always hides on top of. When she is in her tank, she get so dark, her underside is pretty much grey! <<<< I think perhaps without seeing her and the tank and lighting setup she's getting too cold.

Likely reasons
=== I assume you have one of those modified fish tanks so common in the USA which comes with a mesh screen top ==> mesh / screen tops are not good as they do nothing to hold the warm in the terrarium where you and your hatchling need it, basically warm air created by the basking globe is very buoyant and rises being lost immediately through the screen / mesh , this makes it very hard to maintain a good stable thermal air circulation and thermal gradient in the tank,
=== easily fixed by removing the mesh/screen top and replacing it with a solid timber (1/2in thick plywood is excellent and many hardware shops will arrange precutting for a small fee to your specs) ,the solid timber top will do the following :
--- it will insulate the tank from outside conditions
--- it will force the warmed air inside the tank to circulate creating a nice stable gradient
--- it will mean you don't need as many watts in the basking globe to achieve the same basking spot and warm zone temperatures
--- it will be animal proof (other pets)
--- it will provide an excellent mounting platform from which to mount the UV light fixture and basking light and CHE fixture (if you are using one) , all can be fixed / mounted under the "lid"


Then when I take her out with much difficulty (I try to handle her everyday, yet she still doesn't really seem to like me :( as she runs away every time I touch her) she brightens up quickly. <<<< she's not sure if she likes being handled yet or if she really trusts you, this will come with time and patience. I find a great way to build a strong / trusting relationships with a lizard is to handfeed it some of it's live insects daily while nursing and petting it and talking quietly and calmy and reassuringly to it . ie with Peppa and Toothless initially I restricted handling to a maybe 5-10min per day and made a ritual and routine of getting them out first thing before feeding them, placing them into small tub while I spot cleaned and caught any remaining hiding crickets , then I'd lift them out place them on my chest so they are facing me, and I'd have 2 - 3 crickets ready with their heads squashed (to immobilize them and make some cricket inards come out, I'd pull off a hopper leg and have the cricket inbetween my finger tips while I slipped the thick end of "drumstick" between the hatchling's side lips (side is easier as they see the food item, and it's easier to slip it through the lips and teeth there) when hatchling is chewing the "drumstick" / timing is important I'd present the head end of the cricket to the side of the mouth and usually it's eaten promptly by the hatchling, repeat this for each of "bonding" insects , then I'd gently deposit the hatchling back into it's tank and give it 3 - 4 crickets at a time so I don't overwhelm it.
I found they both liked small (mealworm sized) silkworms and only needed place the worm on my shirt where they could see and reach it and it usually promptly disappeared into their mouth. Nom nom nom ...!
On the top of her wall, there's not much room to strectch up, so she just lays flat, but then on her rock, she does the same thing, and just looks sad. She normally puts her head up. <<< normal behaviour Also, sometimes when I hold her she will be still for ages, then quickly tries to 'escape' . <<<< normal for a hatchling, she's more likely spotted something she wants to explore or investigate , if you place her on your tummy /chest within the weight of the left wrist resting on the think part of her tail this will "discourage her from suddenly leaping off/dashing off , thing with very young hatchlings is they only have two speeds = stop and warp10.
She has taken a few tiny falls, but still seems ok physically. <<< how far onto what ? is best to only hold the hatchling when you sitting on the bed, on the floor, or on a nice soft lounge , this way if they take a fall it's not very far and onto a surface with some give in it , best not to walk about with beardies on the shoulder, chest, top of the your head , as they can move fast and will land hard (often on a hard unforgiving floor surface and this has the real potential to cause serious injuries to them. I'm sorry if all of this is gibberish, but I'm just trying to include all the details. I just want to look after her properly!

can you also tell us (show us in photos) her set up :
tank size (L x W x H)
her basking light type and wattage
her UV light (wattage, type (coil, T5 tube, T8 tube or MVB)) and how far from her basking spot is it
her feeding schedule and what you feeding her each meal (ie what size and type of LIVE insects and are they dusted with calcium powder and gutloaded (what are feeding the insects to gut load them))
her lighting schedule = when are lights turned on ? off ?
her bedding
her basking spot temp (how did you measure it?)
her daytime warm zone temp
her daytime cool zone temp

are you warming her tank o/night ? how ? what o/night temps is she experiencing ?

Ok, first things first, I live in Australia. Her tank is a large aquarium without the glass top that comes with it. We cut a thick mesh screen thing to size and placed it on top.
<<< I'd set the mest top aside, and have Bunnings provide some 15mm plywood cut to size, if you go their trade desk they are more than happy to cut the plywood to your specs for a small fee per cut.
The plywood will provide a better thermal barrier (hold the heat in better) and will help create a stable thermal circulation and thermal gradient.
Some of the mesh can be used to cover a couple of slits cut in the plywood top (maybe 1/2 the width of the tank long x 1" wide (slit) one at the cool end , other at the warm end - to promote some air exchange and simply place some offcuts from the mesh over the slits), you'll also need a door opening in the plywood lid.
The UV lamp fitting can be hung under the plywood lid as can the high temperature ceramic basking light fitting (this will bring both the basking and UV lights closer to beardie's basking spot and the "floor", all good to have.
Her heat lamp and uvb light are placed on top. <<< the mesh will block over 25% of the UVA and UVB.
Another reason to get rid of the mesh top and replace it with a solid timber top.
The only way to access the inside is from the top.
<<< ANOTHER OPTION is to sit the tank on it's long side, and get some plywood cut to side to fit under the top and have a glasier cut some cable holes in the new top (was one the sides) to be able to get cables for the light fittings in as well some slip in air vents (available from Bunnings), and get some glasier to cut and fit two sliding front glass doors .
Lots of us use these tracks for our sliding glass enclosure doors http://cowdroy.com.au/product/p02624-plastic-track-set , avail from Bunnings or Mitre10 or direct from Cowdroy .

She fell from my hand onto some soft carpet while I was sitting on a short stool. I can't answer all the questions as I'm not home, but I feed her 7 crickets dusted in a vitamin/calcium powder twice a day. (Give or take a few crickets) and some salad/or vitamin pellets softened with water. She loves carrots and butternut pumpkin.><<< try some buk choi ( the younger plants leaves are sweeter and my lizards all love buk choi green - I don't usually give the hard white stem end of the leaves.
Her bedding is paper towel, but I have some reptile bedding at hand if that's better.<<< all mine are on paper towel, and a mix of loosely laid floor tiles and paper tiles. If you mean reptile bedding as being sand or "Kritters' Crumble" , I'd advise not using either these. (impaction risk if accidentially eaten). The experienced reptile place we got her and most of her stuff has ordered a thermometer for me but it has not arrived.

If I do the first option, the lamp will be way to close to her rock and there will be no air flow at all? The aquarium came with glass panes to cover so should I cover only half maybe then the rest mesh?
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Glass is a very poor insulator compared with wood.

easy fixed
option 1
-- cut some slots in the narrow ends of the plywood lid , place some mesh over these to provide air flow

option 2
-- have the plywood lid cut a few inches shorter than needed to completely cover the tank's top, place mesh there

In both cases -- cut a hole shine the basking globe's light through , or exchange for a lower wattage globe and mount under the lid.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Latest resources

Latest profile posts

Day 3 of brumation. It's a struggle. I really miss my little guy. 😔
Mirage entered brumation yesterday, I'm gonna miss hanging out with my little guy.
Getting ready for another day. Feeling sleepy. 😴
I just walked into my room and instead of looking at me, Swordtail's eyes darted directly to the ice cream drumstick I'm holding
Finally replaced Swordtail's substrate

Forum statistics

Threads
156,094
Messages
1,257,712
Members
76,075
Latest member
Meli
Top Bottom