What Have I Done Wrong?

Hi,

I recently purchased an adult beardie. She is approx. a year and a half old and was in perfect condition when I picked her up 10 days ago. I have read everything I can find on beardies since I brought her home and have tried to do everything right. However, she has not eaten well since I bought her. In the 10 days I've had her she's eaten maybe 4 crickets and 5 superworms. She refuses to touch any veggies. I've been offering fresh butternut squash, collard greens, green beans and mango daily. She hasn't taken a bite of veggies since coming home. She also has not pooped since the day I brought her home. I have given her 3 warm baths this week to try and keep her hydrated and help her in case of impaction. She's in a 50 gallon breeder tank. Temps are correct and lighting is on a timer. No sand in her tank, she's on tile. The past few days while she still is alert in the morning she doesn't even climb into her basking spot. I'm worried sick about her. I feel like such a failure but I've done everything I've read I'm supposed to do for her but she refuses to eat. If anyone has advice I'd love to hear it. Thanks!

Liz

Some beardies (probably most) go thru relocation stress. That can last for a week or 2. That is possibly what is happening in your case.
What are your temps, and what type of uv bulb do you have?

Hi
First dont feel like a failure.Sometimes things just have to be tweeked plus this may just be a case of relocation stress.Just to be safe lets go over just a few things.
what are your temps exactly?
how are you measuring them?
where are you measuring them?
what specific uvb bulb are you using?
how close can your beardie get to it?
what type of basking/heating items are you using?

*edit:sorry Jiffy we must have posted at the same time

She still might just be experiencing relocation stress. When we got Squirrel, it took her a little over two weeks to get her full appetite. She would only go through a dozen crix the first week we had her and then about a dozen every three days the next two weeks after that. We are now on the fourth week of having her and she's eating about 5 dozen crix every two days. I say give her a little while longer to adjust, and her appetite will return.

Don't worry! If it is something other than relocation stress, we'll be able to help you get through it!

Yes, please answer the questions, they are very important and could help rule things out.

OK, I just went and looked at the box the bulb came in and it's a ZooMed 100W PowerSun UV. It is the only heat source I am using. I have a digital temp/humidity guage that I can put in the tank. Basking spot is on a log, approx 5 inches from the light at the highest point. Temp at the highest point is 114 degrees and 20% humidity. Temp on the bottom of the cage is around 82 degrees and 40% humidity. Light is on from 6am till 9pm. Temps at night drop to 68-70 degrees on the bottom of the tank where she sleeps. I think that answers most of the questions.

I have not tried to force feed her as I don't want to make her skittish. The person who I bought her from suggested putting the worms or crickets in with her veggies or hand feeding them while holding some greens to encourage her to eat the veggies. I've tried both, she won't take anything from my hand and when I put the worms in her veggie tray she just picked them out.

martinelizabethj":1cc11 said:

OK, I just went and looked at the box the bulb came in and it's a ZooMed 100W PowerSun UV. It is the only heat source I am using. I have a digital temp/humidity guage that I can put in the tank. Basking spot is on a log, approx 5 inches from the light at the highest point. Temp at the highest point is 114 degrees and 20% humidity. Temp on the bottom of the cage is around 82 degrees and 40% humidity. Light is on from 6am till 9pm. Temps at night drop to 68-70 degrees on the bottom of the tank where she sleeps. I think that answers most of the questions.

I have not tried to force feed her as I don't want to make her skittish. The person who I bought her from suggested putting the worms or crickets in with her veggies or hand feeding them while holding some greens to encourage her to eat the veggies. I've tried both, she won't take anything from my hand and when I put the worms in her veggie tray she just picked them out.

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Ok I see one major problem.The powersun which is a great bulb but its and MVB which means your beardie cannot get within 12 inches of it or she could have a serious problems with radiation exposure.Also the temp is a bit high.The appropriate temp is 95F-110f surface temp.Anything higher then that could cause severe dehydration and neurological issues.Cool side should be 75F-80F so its a little high but not horrible.Humidity is fine.Night temps are fine.What I would do is lower the basking surface immediately which should fix the problem.How long has she been under the bulb that close?

This is what I find so confusing. No offense but everyone seems to have a little different opinion. The person who I bought her from (who only sold her because he was being sent to Iraq) told me the basking spot should be 105-115 degrees. It's a brand new bulb, but the same brand he's used with her in the year and a half he's had her. To put the basking spot 12 inches from the bulb would mean basking spot is practically on the bottom of the tank? She does tend to stay off to the side where temps are more in the 95-100 degree range rather than directly under the bulb where it's hottest. Guess she's smarter than I give her credit for. But, why is she not eating? I'm reading an adult beardie should eat a dozen or more crickets every other day and she hasn't eaten that many in 10 days time. Plus, no veggies at all. At what point do I worry about impaction becasue she's only eating insects and what about dehydration?

martinelizabethj":c55a3 said:

This is what I find so confusing. No offense but everyone seems to have a little different opinion. The person who I bought her from (who only sold her because he was being sent to Iraq) told me the basking spot should be 105-115 degrees. It's a brand new bulb, but the same brand he's used with her in the year and a half he's had her. To put the basking spot 12 inches from the bulb would mean basking spot is practically on the bottom of the tank? She does tend to stay off to the side where temps are more in the 95-100 degree range rather than directly under the bulb where it's hottest. Guess she's smarter than I give her credit for. But, why is she not eating? I'm reading an adult beardie should eat a dozen or more crickets every other day and she hasn't eaten that many in 10 days time. Plus, no veggies at all. At what point do I worry about impaction becasue she's only eating insects and what about dehydration?

Click to expand...

Ok I understand what you mean and yes some do keep basking points high but esecially with adults its completely unecessary but also risky.As for the bulb distance please trust me on this one the absolute minimum for 100watt MVB is 12 inches it goes even higher if you up the wattage.As for the amount an adult beardie eats no they dont eat anywhere that amount in live food.An adult beardie should have an 80%veggie/20%protien diet and should be eating 25-50 feeder insect per week depending on the feeder.Crix would be about 50 where Supers would be at about 25 a week.She may not be eating because of the temps and the proximity to the uvb.Also if she is a little dehydrated that could stop her appetite as well and I am sure some of it is Relocation issues as well.

Some dragons like it a bit hotter than others. My adult dragon does not like his temps that high. He is usually happier with the hottest temp being about 100. You just never know.

As for mercury vapor bulbs, I see that they all say to not let your beardie get any closer than 12" to the bulb (some the distance is more).

I totally agree that adults tend to like it cooler than babies, and that could be why she doesn't have much of an appetite because the MVB is too close and the temps are too hot for her. If they don't really bask, their appetites will decrease. You mentioned that the bulb is brand new but that it is the same brand the other owner had. When the MVB's are brand new, they are stronger & put out more heat so they need some burn-in time at the right distance of a 12" minimum from your beardie. You mentioned that you're using a digital temp/humidity gauge, but does it look similar to this? If it doesn't have the long wire & probe on the end, then it could be off by as much as 20 degrees. If it is hotter than the reading you're getting now, it can cause VERY rapid dehydration & neurological problems that are very dangerous. Please give us more details of the thermometer & also adjust the distance of the bulb so she can be more comfortable as well as keeping her well hydrated. Those changes should help with her appetite & activity level.