Help! Sick baby!

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I got up this morning to feed Sobek and he was laying flat on his stomach with his arms at his sides:
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I don't know what to do at this point. He was extremely skinny when I got him and the pet store didn't give him UV. I'm not sure if it's my fault or the pet store's, I don't really care at this point. I just want to know what's going on. 90-100 on basking spot, 85-90 cool side, i feed him crickets but he hasn't been going for them lately. I use a 10.0 zoomed UV lamp and dust all of his live food with calcium.
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
He also doesn't really move from his basking tree at all unless I move him down to eat, then he starts going for crickets
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
He doesn't look good. First of all, your temperatures are way off, and I'm assuming that you are using only a stick-on thermometer since you only listed 2 temperature ranges. You need to get a Digital Probe Thermometer, which has a Probe you can sit right on his basking spot where he lays, let it sit there for at least 20-30 minutes, and then read the temperature. This is the Basking Spot Temperature, you cannot measure his Basking Spot Temperature with a stick-on thermometer, what you're measuring is the Hot Side Ambient and Cool Side Ambient temperatures, or Air Temperatures.

Here's the thing, the stick-on thermometers are very inaccurate, usually off by between 10-20 degrees when tested. And the actual Basking Spot Temperature, which should be right directly under both his UVB tube and his bright white basking bulb, is going to be considerably higher that the Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature around it...So if your getting 90-100 degrees as a Hot Side Ambient Temperature with an inaccurate stick-on thermometer, my guess is that the Hot Side Ambient (air) Temperature is actually more like 110 and his Basking Spot Surface Temperature is in the lethal range, over 110. And the Cool Side Ambient you are getting is 85-90 degrees, which is probably closer to 100 degrees in reality, when it should only be 75-80 degrees absolute maximum.
So you're most likely cooking him!!!

A Digital Probe Thermometer costs $10 at any Petco or PetSmart, I suggest you go buy one ASAP, bring it home, and immediately start measuring all 3 temperature zones, starting with the Basking Spot Surface Temperature. Put the Probe on the wire right on his main Basking Spot/Platform (which again needs to be located within the Hot Side of his tank and directly under both his UVb tube and his bright white basking bulb so he is getting both at the same time while he basks). Allow the Probe to sit for 20-30 minutes and then read it. Then you need to measure the Hot Side Ambient Temperature, and you do this by taking the Probe and using the suction cup that comes with the Digital Thermometer. You attach the suction cup on the wire right below the Probe, then stick the suction cup to the glass on the Hot Side of the tank, about 2" from the floor. Again let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then read it. Then move the Probe to the opposite Cool Side of the tank and stick the suction cup to the glass on the Cool Side about 2" above the floor, wait 20-30 minutes, then read it.

My guess is that all 3 of your temperatures are far too hot and you're going to need to buy a lower wattage bright white Basking Bulb or just a regular Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb like you buy at Tractor Supply, Lowes, or Home Depot. I don't know what size tank you have, but typically a 40 gallon breeder tank only needs a 100 watt bulb, any smaller of a tank and you need to go down obviously. But I'd go out and buy the next wattage down from whatever you're using, and please be sure it's bright white only, no colored bulbs at all for Bearded Dragons, and no Coil/Spiral bulbs either.

BASKING SPOT SURFACE TEMPERATURE (Within the Hot Side of the Tank where he lays to bask): Should be between 105-110 for a baby or juvenile and between 100-105 for an adult. ***110 degrees is the absolute hottest temperature anywhere in the tank for a Bearded Dragon, anything over that is lethal.

HOT SIDE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE (Air temperature on the Hot Side of the tank, surrounding the Basking Spot/Platform): Between 88-93 degrees maximum.

COOL SIDE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE (Air temperature on the Cool Side of the tank): Between 75-80 degrees maximum.

***So you can see how hot your temps are, even without assuming that your stick-on thermometer is accurate, which it probably isn't.***


The second issue is most likely your UVB light...Is your Reptisun 10.0 UVB light a long tube that is 18" or 24" long and in a matching length fixture, or is it just a regular compact or coil lightbulb?

If you are not using the 18" or 24" Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube (either a T8 or better a T5HO), then this is the other huge problem you have, as the Reptisun 10.0 compact/coil bulb and any other compact or coil UVB bulbs are completely inadequate for Bearded Dragons, they are at most 13 watts, some are less, and he's essentially getting no UVb or UVA light from it. And if it's being obstructed by a mesh lid, that is also blocking 40% of the already too weak of UVB light. Also, if it's the coil/spiral version, they cause significant eye and neurological damage.

You need to buy a long UVB tube and matching length fixture, either an 18" or a 24", and it must either be a Reptisun 10.0 brand (not a 5.0) or an Arcadia brand. They come in two different strengths, a weaker T8 (you'll find this one in Petco and PetSmart for $37 just for the tube, and it's not worth it), or the more adequate and appropriate for Bearded Dragons the stronger T5 strength.

My suggestion is you go to Amazon.com and order a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube and then do the package deal for a 24" T5-rated tube fixture that includes a metal reflector with it. The 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube costs only $23 on Amazon.com and you can do a package deal after selecting the tube for a 24" T5-rated fixture (yes, the 22" tube fits in a 24" fixture) for under $50 shipped for both, just be sure you choose the cheapest 24" fixture they offer that includes the Metal Reflector, this is not optional.

The difference between a T8 UVB tube and a much stronger T5 tube, besides that the T8 tubes are overpriced, especially in stores, is that the T8 tubes must be mounted underneath the mesh lids by using zip ties or something similar, they must be within 6" of the main basking spot, and they must be replaced every 6 months as that's the age they stop emitting any UVb light. These are the same rules and your compact/coil UVb bulb, they must be under the mesh lid, be within 6" of the basking spot/platform, and must be replaced once ever 6 months. The only difference is that the compact/coil UVB bulbs will cause horrible eye and neurological issues when within 6" of your dragon.

In contrast, the T5 strength UVB tubes can sit on top of the mesh lid as long as his Basking Spot/Platform is within at least 11" of the tube, and they only need to be replaced once every 109 months to a year. So you save money. Spend the $50 now on the T5HO tube and fixture, he'll perk up within a day or so of being under both an adequate UVB tube and in the correct temperatures (both lights need to be on for at least 13-14 hours every single day), and he'll start eating again pretty directly as well. Without an adequate UVB tube and correct temperatures he's going to get worse and worse.

I'd turn off the compact/coil UVB bulb for now, go buy the Digital Probe Thermometer and get his temperature ranges correct, and order the T5HO UVb tube immediately. If you do happen to have the long Reptisun 10.0 UVB tube, it's probably an 18" T8 version, so if you have it on top of a mesh lid and not within at least 6" of him, then you need to poke holes in the mesh and use Zip Ties or Shoelaces to mount the T8 tube to the underside of the mesh lid, and get his basking spot within 6" of the unobstructed tube.
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
He has a tube UV bulb, it's a Reptisun 10.0 and it's not obstructed by anything whatsoever. I moved his lamp so he could cool off, that seemed to help.
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Okay, so it's the temperatures...Can you get a proper Digital Probe Thermometer to get his 3 Temperature zones correct? He's been much too hot obviously, he needs to always have a Cool Side that is no hotter than 80 degrees max so he can go and cool down, and his Basking Spot Surface cannot go over 110, nor can any other temp inside his cage.

My guess is that you need to go down in wattage of bright white basking bulb ASAP. You do not need to buy an expensive Basking Bulb, just a Halogen Indoor Flood Bulb, but go down at least by 25 watts than what you're using, because if his Cool Side Ambient is reading at 90 degrees, then his Hot Side and Basking Spot are dangerously high, as anything over 110 degrees is lethal for long periods of time. It's very important that they have 3 distinct temperature zones within the ranges I posted. And a stick-on thermometer makes it absolutely impossible to measure his actual Basking Spot temperature at all, which is very dangerous.
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
I got one and you are 100% right, basking temp was 115! Thank you so much, I'm getting a lower watt bulb and turning this one off for a bit so his tank can cool down.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
He may be dehydrated right now, offer water by dripping it on his snout. You can use an eyedropper, syringe or a spray bottle to gently drip a few drops at a time. Drip, stop, repeat until he starts drinking. How is he acting now ?
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
Before he fell asleep, he was sitting up and i got him to drink some water and take some of his calcium supplement.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I definitely think he is likely too hot & may be under the wrong UVB light, possibly.
The Reptisun 10, is it a compact/coil light, or a long fluorescent tube bulb.
That's great you were able to get some fluids into him. I hope that he feels much
better soon.
Let us know how he is doing.

Tracie
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
Looks like I spoke too soon. He's not eating at all, he stays up in his basking spot all day and only comes down if I move him, after which he won't make an effort to crawl back up. He's been severely underweight since I bought him (he's around 8 1/2 in. and 11.8 grams). The vet i went to gave me a lot of false information. I think he may have MBD but I'm not sure. I switched out the basking bulb from a 75 to a 50 and his UV is a 24" tube Reptisun UVB that spans the length of his cage unobstructed. He won't touch any of his crickets and only responds when I pick him up, otherwise he sleeps all day and doesn't move from one spot.
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
I think he may be blind in one eye, he's always winked and keeps his eyes closed most of the time. He is becoming dangerously underweight, he won't even lift his head up on his own and doesn't respond to hardly anything. I tried force feeding him but his jaw clamped shut. I don't know what to do, I think he may be dying.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I'm sorry he isn't responding very well. Did you try dripping some food onto his nose to see if
he likes the flavor so that he will take some food? You can try to get his mouth open by using
a thin piece of cardboard & sliding it into his mouth gently. Before you do that, you can fold
the piece of cardboard in half, then cut a small hole in it before sliding it into his mouth. That
way you can try to get some food into him, but go in from the side.
Hopefully he isn't blind but his eyes could be irritated though. Is he sitting under his basking
light at all right now?

Tracie
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
It's about 12:30 AM where I'm at right now, so he's sleeping under his CHE. It looks like his front arms are a little bit swollen, he keeps tucking them to his sides. His right eye only partially opens (i only noticed today, he usually winks or has both eyes closed), and it's much darker in color than his left eye. Should I get some baby food and try that? He's really not doing well.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Poor thing, I'm sorry he isn't doing very well.
Yes, try getting some chicken or turkey baby food, mixed with squash or sweet potato baby
food. Use a plastic dropper or plastic syringe to get some food into him. It sounds like he
really needs some nutrition into him, as soon as possible. Fluids are important, also.
Are his eyes swollen any, or he just isn't opening them?
Your UVB should be fine so that isn't the problem. He could have parasites too from being
stressed/overheated. How are the temperatures now?

Tracie
 

spinyheliantheae

Member
Original Poster
His basking spot stays around 98-100. I think he could've gotten too close to the UVB bulb and that's what irritated his eye. He looks like he has the beginnings of MBD (he didn't have any UVB until I got him), I'll try the baby food. Should I mix it with a multivitamin or calcium or just let it be?
 
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