3 m/o bearded dragon isn't growing

I got a bearded dragon about 1 month and 19 days ago and since then she hasn't grown that much and she eats about 5-8 crickets a day. She eats waxworms sometimes and she will eat a little bit of greens. She doesn't poop that much and only drinks water when she's in the bath. She doesn't seem lethargic and she's always moving around and alert. Can anyone help me?

Hello,

Do you have any pictures you could post, just so we can see her?
For his age, she will need to eat a lot more than 5-8 crickets per day. Are the crickets smaller
than the space between her eyes?
What type/brand of UVB are you using, currently?
How often do you give her calcium supplementation?
We can help review your tank setup to ensure it is all setup correctly for her.

Tracie

The crickets are about the size between her eyes maybe a bit smaller. We're using an all living things UVB bulb and basking bulb and they're both 6 inches from her log. I coat her crickets everyday with fluker's repti calcium.

I'm betting her failure to thrive and grow is due to not enough insect protein and dietary calcium , and likely inadequate UV and wrong viv temperatures unless she sharing a viv with another .

For starters @ 3 months old she should still be on three live insect meals per day since she is still a hatchling.

The best feeders for her at 3 months old are :
BSF maggots (phoenix worms (USA) , calci-gents elsewhere) = excellent feeder naturally rich in calcium and slow moving
Blowfly gents (rich in calcium and slow moving BUT pupate fast, but the pupae and the flies a good tucker for a hatchling too
Silkworms (1 inch - 1.5 inch long) excellent feeder insect - slow moving worth the expense and bother raising on either fresh mulberry leaves or silkworm chow
Crickets (I'd be offering 25day old - 1/3 size , no bigger for now), roaches, locusts (suitable sizes) which are feed and gutloaded on carrot + adult beardie pellets (repcal , straight from the bottle) + calcium rich greens and these need to dusted lightly with calcium powder.

As many bugs as she will eat (in her viv) offered a few at a time so she's not overwhelmed with the fast or hoppy feeders.

First feed about 2hrs after lights and heat on, last feed about 2hrs before lights /heat off. At least a 14-15hr photoperiod to give lots of opportunity to bask and warm and digest food.

Need much more information and details on your beardie's setup and your husbandry otherwise we can't even hazard a guess.

Here's my Cheat Sheet :
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=234738&p=1806050#p1806050

if you work through it methodically , the chances are the likely issues that need to be tweeked or changed will pop right out at you, if you can give very detailed answers we will then be in a position to offer help.
Is impossible to help you if you don't provide thorough details .

It may prove necessary to involve a reptile vet if your bearded dragon has serious health issues.
Are you in a position to afford to take him to a good reptile vet should this prove necessary ?

Manders":2f48z9n2 said:

The crickets are about the size between her eyes maybe a bit smaller. We're using an all living things UVB bulb and basking bulb and they're both 6 inches from her log. I coat her crickets everyday with fluker's repti calcium.

Click to expand...

All Livings Things UV bulbs are Chinese rubbish. See my cheatsheet.

I recommend you return the UV bulbs to the shop and exchange to a 10%-12% UVB bulb to fit your REFLECTOR HOOD or DOME , only trustworthy brands in UV lighting are Exo Terra, Zoo Med and Arcadia.

If your UV bulb is a compact , you need AT LEAST a 26W UVB200 or equivalent from Zoo Med or Arcadia.
I recommend replacing the dome you have the UV bulb in with an Exo Terra Nano-Hood and this and the 26W 10%UVb bulb is best installed UNDER THE LID - NOT ONTOP OF THE LID. A nano hood will mount the 26W UVB200 horizontally and help spread the UVA and UVB out over more space, and wont be a hard on beardie's eyes.

Even better , I recommend replacing the compact uvb bulb with either a T8 10-12%UVB tube or a T5HO 10-12%UVB tube , and install the new tube in a REFLECTOR HOOD mounted under the lid.
Recommend a T8 or T5HO tube which is not more than 2/3 the length of the viv , with one end adjacent to the basking bulb , you need both a thermal gradient and a UV gradient.

Aw, what a little cutie. She is quite thin though.....will she eat more crickets if you offer her more ? As was mentioned they need to be fed 2-3X a day with live feeders. Don't use waxworms, they are fatty but the bigger problem is that some beardies will stop eating crickets if they get spoiled on waxworms.

And can you show a pic of the lighting placement , the entire tank set up ? As was mentioned, the bulb may be too far away and not being a strong bulb it will be of little use in providing uvb.