My first Bearded Dragon. I need tips.

I read a lot about them but I need a little extra help. I just got him a few days ago and hes still a baby. I named him Beadie. I started off with a 20 gallon and got all the supplies. But then i found a bigger tank for a good deal that came with a bunch of furniture so i got that. I'm using the same bulbs that i was using for the 20 gallon which is one UVB 18" bulb and two 75 watt heat lamps (one day, one night). Would that be fine? Or should i get a bigger UVB and higher wattage for the heat lamps? He seems to be doing okay but i just want to make sure. Also he keeps trying to climb the sides of the tank. I read that this is probably because he is stressed and i cant figure out why he would be. I gave him a lot a space in his tank so he doesn't feel cramped. I feed him like 10-15 crickets two times a day and i give him 10 minute baths once a day so he can drink. Anything else i need to do? and how to i get him to eat the salad i give him too? should i feed it to him with tweezers? what do i do?

Since most pet store beardies are babies, I think feeding as many crickets as he wants in a 10-15 minute time span would be fine, three times a day is preferable. As for the uvb, what is it, a t8? A t5 10.0? As for the stress, he might just be taking a while to settle in or, if there's a cat or dog or other house animal he can see, that might freak him out too. At his age(I'm guessing a baby), you don't really need to force him to eat his salad, it would be more of a bonus. If the temps reach 95 up to 105 degrees fahrenheit, he doesn't need a better basking bulb. What are you using to gather temperatures? A temp gun is the most accurate as stick on thermometers are usually a couple degrees or while a probe thermometer doesn't always give accurate readings either. You can hand feed him as an early method of bonding with him but otherwise, he doesn't really need to nor do you. About hydration, you can also spray water at his beard, though not many beardies will drink using that method so bathes are good, along with misting his salad in case he eats it too. Make sure to be using a good calcium and multivitamin like rep cal and herptivite(multivitamin by rep cal that uses beta carotene instead of synthetic vitamin A). Calcium with d3 is fine, 5 times a week while multivitamin should be given 2 times a week, not on the same days as calcium is given though.

Also, do.you have a perch or basking spot that he could use to bask and receive uvb at different distances as that would be pretty good for a growing beardy and really most adults too.

My UVB UVA bulb is 18" T8 15 watt. I'm not sure if the temps are reaching up to 95-105 because i think my thermometer is broken. Its stuck in the red even when i take it into the cold. I'll have to get a new one. Probably a temp gun. I made him a basking spot that's about 6" inches away from the day time heat lamp. I keep both the day and night heat lamps on because i realized the tank gets colder with just one on. he still has a cool side to his tank. I put his bath bowl on the warm side so it warms up the water so he might want to take baths more. As for the food, i refill his food bowl with new salad everyday. I bought like 100 crickets and that ran out fast. If i got 1000 should that be enough? i use the 20 gallon tank for the crickets now. and do crickets need cricket food or can i just give them apples and potatoes and stuff? Is there anything i can give Beadie other than the multivitamins until i can get them?
Also how to i post pictures on here?

Does the UVB light fixture have clear plastic over the bulb? That should be removed if it's there as it will intercept all of the UVB. The T8 should sit about 6-8'' above the basking area for best results as well.

Getting a new thermometer is a good idea. It's important to get accurate surface temp readings across the tank. You don't need much. One like this will do https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK

1000 crickets would usually last about a month for me. Some of them die off and some are eaten but during peak growth of my oldest dragon that would be about right. I also used a 20g tank for them with cardboard tubes for housing and I fed them veg scraps, especially squash. I found that they preferred warmer temps too, in the high 70s/80s when possible.

You can upload photos here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ and post them to your thread using the XIMG button.

Well, there are better UVB tubes like a reptisun t5 10.0 but, I guess if he can get quite close if he wants, the t8 tube is probably fine. As for crickets, yeah 1000 would last. However, you'd definitely need a good size container to hold them and a couple egg flats/drink holders/toilet paper/paper towel tubes. If you think that there isn't enough space for 1000 crickets in the 20 gallon, get an 18 quart sterilize bin and then, grab the tallest bin, cut out some of the bins lid, put aluminum screening(only like $7 at Home Depot and youll have a lot left for other projects), throw in some things they can climb on. Also, if your dealing with smaller crickets, you may want to put some packaging tape at the top since a couple will be able to climb really well. As for the temp gun, temp guns really are great and quite cheap(ex : the add on $7 temp gun on Amazon or the $12-$18 etekcity temp guns on Amazon). As for cricket food, if you're using the cricket all in one cubes, I've used those In the past but they would dry up too fast so I started getting the flukers dry diet and the calcium fortified gel cubes(don't bother with calcium fortified, it doesn't do anything for the crickets or for the beardy, just using it as it was all I could find at the store, any non pre made water crystals that use only polyachamide work too). Also, give them vegetables from time to time. A again about the 1000 crickets, only get it if you know your beardy can get through them in a couple weeks otherwise they may start to die.

This is my setup
These are my night and day heat lamps
And this is Beadies basking spot
also this is the uvb bulb, it does not have a cover

That setup looks pretty nice! I'll bet he likes that vine to climb around on. I think ideally you'll want to get a 22'' T5 UVB light like this one http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/22-t-5-ho-fixture-high-output-with-arcadia-d3-12-ho-bulb/ but since he can get pretty close I'd at least get a reflector for your T8 fixture to ensure as much UVB as possible is deflected down over the vine for him. http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-t8-18-lamp-reflector/

I'd replace the red light with either a second bright white light, or a low wattage ceramic heat emitter. That will produce heat without visible light making it suitable for use overnight if the tank temps drop below about 65 or so.

If i were to get a heat bulb that doesn't produce visible light, what wattage should I get? I have one that's 150 but that's probably a little too much. Hes still a baby and i have never owned a bearded dragon before or even a reptile so I'm trying to make sure everything is perfect.

My favorite is the MegaRay heat projector. It doesn't get quite so hot to the touch as the ceramic heat emitters but still produces plenty of heat over the tank. http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=196

If you go with a ceramic heat emitter, stick with a low wattage. 50w or maybe 100w at most if you can change the height or dim it to fine tune the output. You usually just need a small bump on cold nights. No more than 75 in most cases but just enough to keep it above 65.