Basking Area And Temps Questions

Hello,

I'm a new beardie owner. I've done my research and feel that I have a good home for my new found friend "Buddy". He is such a cute little guy.

But, I have a few questions. One, is fleece or bandanna material going to catch my 5-6 month old beardies toe nails? I got rid of his reptile hammock because I heard it can do this. I have a ramp for him to crawl up to his basking spot and its too slippery. (He is currently gone away at the vet. He was closing one eye since the day I got him.) I wanted to put some fleece material or bandanna material on the ramp to make it easier for him to get there. Then, on the same topic, would it be okay to have fleece or a bandanna covering his basking spot?<--(for several reason, I won't bore you with details) Its a ramp that leads to a board that goes across the tank. (don't worry its not too high) Also, its a 40 gal br. I make sure he gets his food, and he is an amazing hunter.

Two, I have read all about basking temps and see people talk about ranges from 100,105,115, and 125 for juveniles. Because of the changing i'm making to his home while he is gone, the basking area now offers a range from 130 on one end, and down to 85 on the other end. Yes, I have a cool side that offers from 80-69ish. Would 130 burn him? Or, since his basking area offers that 130-85 range, will he be fine and pick his favorite spot?

Last, could I put sand paper on his ramp to help him get up there and to help keep his nails trimmed? (just a random thought)

Thank you for your time!

I can help with the temps, not so much on the basking area portion.

115+ is way to high of temps and can cause seroius problems, dehydration, overheating and a few other things... it definitely may kill him.

For juveniles its somewhat okay to go up to 110-115 but mostly you dont want it to even reach past 110.

Baskings temps should stay at around 100-110. 105 is a good spot.
Warm side (the portion in the middle and around the direct basking spot) should be 90-95.
The cool side should be around 70-85.
Night time temps no lower than 65 at night.

If it gets lower than 65 at night you can use a ceramic heat emitter as it doesnt provide any light and just heat for night time. (No colored bulbs are suitable for night time heating as they see in color)

I feel like the sand paper may be bad for his feet, I would just use a nice fat log from outside to use as a ramp. Of course you'll want to wash it off in warm water and then bake it before use. I usually do 250*f for 30 minutes in the oven to kill any bacteria.

As for hammocks i know of two hammocks that are usable, the all natural seagrass penn-plax reptile lizard lounger and the fleece types.

My juvenile bearded dragon actually really loves the penn-plax lizard lounger to lay on for the cool side, sometimes I have to force her off of it so she basks and digests her food properly. It holds up pretty well too and comes with extra suction cups in case you need more to hang it or replacements.

VenusAndSaturn":5i585d81 said:

I can help with the temps, not so much on the basking area portion.

115+ is way to high of temps and can cause seroius problems, dehydration, overheating and a few other things... it definitely may kill him.

For juveniles its somewhat okay to go up to 110-115 but mostly you dont want it to even reach past 110.

Baskings temps should stay at around 100-110. 105 is a good spot.
Warm side (the portion in the middle and around the direct basking spot) should be 90-95.
The cool side should be around 70-85.
Night time temps no lower than 65 at night.

If it gets lower than 65 at night you can use a ceramic heat emitter as it doesnt provide any light and just heat for night time. (No colored bulbs are suitable for night time heating as they see in color)

I feel like the sand paper may be bad for his feet, I would just use a nice fat log from outside to use as a ramp. Of course you'll want to wash it off in warm water and then bake it before use. I usually do 250*f for 30 minutes in the oven to kill any bacteria.

As for hammocks i know of two hammocks that are usable, the all natural seagrass penn-plax reptile lizard lounger and the fleece types.

My juvenile bearded dragon actually really loves the penn-plax lizard lounger to lay on for the cool side, sometimes I have to force her off of it so she basks and digests her food properly. It holds up pretty well too and comes with extra suction cups in case you need more to hang it or replacements.

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Thank you so much for your input, I have made the necessary changes to his home! He now has a basking spot sitting at 105/106 and a cool side.

I got rid of the red light and got the ceramic bulb. He sometimes sleeps there, or curls up in the cool side at night.

I returned the hammock I had and got a reptile safe fabric one! He never goes on it. He pretty much sits in his basking spot all day.

Does any one else have more input on the other things I brought up?

I use small fleece blankets on the floor of my tank and under the basking lights around the house. They're great. The fleece isn't looped so it doesn't catch nails and you can make hammocks from the material if you wish. These are what I use. https://www.etsy.com/listing/263283170/personalized-blankies-for-bearded

Are there other points that weren't addressed? Or do you have further questions for us?

CooperDragon":whjzhcbr said:

I use small fleece blankets on the floor of my tank and under the basking lights around the house. They're great. The fleece isn't looped so it doesn't catch nails and you can make hammocks from the material if you wish. These are what I use. https://www.etsy.com/listing/263283170/personalized-blankies-for-bearded

Are there other points that weren't addressed? Or do you have further questions for us?

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Fleece it is! Thank you do you have any input on the sand paper? Or should I just clip his nails?

Other issues are already covered , so no real point going over them again.

I strongly suggest getting hold of a brace of digital thermometers like these : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Reptile/172452294173?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D2f7042e06fbf49ef8ed29ef34ebfc083%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D391259141696
I've got 3 in each rearing tub and each tank and have tested them (laboratory calibration tests) and found they are quite accurate ( +/- 1 degC ) , and you can use them to see the temperatures at strategic spots in the tank at a glance.

Regarding excessive temperatures : see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516
I strongly recommend NO WHERE accessibly to the dragon in the viv EVER be allowed to exceed 43 degC.

kingofnobbys":1faguh81 said:

Other issues are already covered , so no real point going over them again.

I strongly suggest getting hold of a brace of digital thermometers like these : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Reptile/172452294173?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D2f7042e06fbf49ef8ed29ef34ebfc083%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D391259141696
I've got 3 in each rearing tub and each tank and have tested them (laboratory calibration tests) and found they are quite accurate ( +/- 1 degC ) , and you can use them to see the temperatures at strategic spots in the tank at a glance.

Regarding excessive temperatures : see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516
I strongly recommend NO WHERE accessibly to the dragon in the viv EVER be allowed to exceed 43 degC.

Click to expand...

Thank you! 105 degrees it is! I have this laser gun

Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Do you have suggestions on the sandpaper / clipping question?

Thank you!! I will check that out.

For the nails I would either clip the sharp tips or I would file them with an emery board as needed. I would not use sandpaper in the tank as it is likely to irritate skin and be quite uncomfortable.

CooperDragon":23ql4szi said:

For the nails I would either clip the sharp tips or I would file them with an emery board as needed. I would not use sandpaper in the tank as it is likely to irritate skin and be quite uncomfortable.

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That’s great to know! Thank you ! Anything I need to know about his nail clipping? Like for birds you can kill them if you do it wrong.

The only bit that can be clipped is the sharp end but it sounds like that is missing. There is a blood vessel in the main part of the nail that can be cut and bleed quite a bit which is why I recommend just filing a bit at the end and see how that goes. A vet may be able to trim back the curled nail somehow but I'm not sure that's advisable at home. Just a little bit of filing to keep it in check. If you do clip the ends have some styptic powder on hand so you can stop bleeding quickly if a cut does happen (I've never seen it happen or caused bleeding when cutting nails, it's just a possibility to be prepared for).

CooperDragon":2m8dzle6 said:

The only bit that can be clipped is the sharp end but it sounds like that is missing. There is a blood vessel in the main part of the nail that can be cut and bleed quite a bit which is why I recommend just filing a bit at the end and see how that goes. A vet may be able to trim back the curled nail somehow but I'm not sure that's advisable at home. Just a little bit of filing to keep it in check. If you do clip the ends have some styptic powder on hand so you can stop bleeding quickly if a cut does happen (I've never seen it happen or caused bleeding when cutting nails, it's just a possibility to be prepared for).

Click to expand...

Wonderful thank you! I will try that out.