[Help] Trying to Fix Proper Enclosure!

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OhSoler

Member
Hey! So I recently had one of my beardies pass away due to a bad impaction. Since then I have been very concerned for my other beardie to be as happy and healthy as possible! I am getting him a better tank tomorrow with new decor and I want to put down some sort of substrate that's similar to sand. I have heard Wheat bran but I cant find it anywhere. I have been feeding him (Toad) calcium powder dusted crickets almost every day and offering him fresh veggies and fruits. I have been bathing him at least once a week and have him out usually around 3 hours a day. I was doing 24/7 lighting but I have read that's not correct so i'm turning it off when i go to sleep.
I have been using paper towels and I have a Exo Terra 100w Basking light.

He hasn't been too active lately and it seems that his left arm is weaker than his right and he doesn't hold himself up on his front legs much and seems to slug around instead of run? Any ideas what that could mean or is he just a lazy guy? He also hasn't shedded in quite awhile? The temp under the light is 105 F where the thermometer is. I was wondering what kind of lighting I need and any other possible ideas or corrections that I could do better. I know there are many forums out there but I was kinda looking for corrections on the setup I have right now. Posted pics below! Anything truly helps!! :)
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CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
I'm sorry to hear your dragon died from impaction =(. I suggest moving to a solid substrate which will help prevent ingestion/impaction and will also be easier to clean and sanitize which is important. Non adhesive shelf liner is a good choice or you could set down some ceramic tile if you want something a little heavier. If you can find some fleece to cut into shape that would work too, that's easy to throw in the washer and doesn't get caught in their toes. How old is Toad?

105 is a good basking temperature. What type of thermometer are you using? What is the reading on the cool end of the tank? A proper gradient and accurate readings are important.

What do you have in place for a UVB light? A high quality UVB light is pretty critical for their overall health so it's worth getting a nice one and setting it at a proper distance.

They require a night cycle just like we do. They are alert during the day and sleep at night so it's a good idea to set the light schedule around your schedule. I've found it helps a lot to get an outlet timer and hook the lights to that so they go on and off according to a schedule. I'd set them to be on about 12-14hrs per day depending on your schedule. Adjustments to the lighting should have a positive effect.

I'm not able to see the photos you posted. Try uploading them here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ and then post them to your thread using the XIMG button.
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":q0sx5bbk said:
I'm sorry to hear your dragon died from impaction =(. I suggest moving to a solid substrate which will help prevent ingestion/impaction and will also be easier to clean and sanitize which is important. Non adhesive shelf liner is a good choice or you could set down some ceramic tile if you want something a little heavier. If you can find some fleece to cut into shape that would work too, that's easy to throw in the washer and doesn't get caught in their toes. How old is Toad?

105 is a good basking temperature. What type of thermometer are you using? What is the reading on the cool end of the tank? A proper gradient and accurate readings are important.

What do you have in place for a UVB light? A high quality UVB light is pretty critical for their overall health so it's worth getting a nice one and setting it at a proper distance.

They require a night cycle just like we do. They are alert during the day and sleep at night so it's a good idea to set the light schedule around your schedule. I've found it helps a lot to get an outlet timer and hook the lights to that so they go on and off according to a schedule. I'd set them to be on about 12-14hrs per day depending on your schedule. Adjustments to the lighting should have a positive effect.

I'm not able to see the photos you posted. Try uploading them here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ and then post them to your thread using the XIMG button.

Thanks for such a quick response! I posted my pics so you can see what im working with, Toad is about 8 months old. I have a ExoTerra thermometer right under the light on the glass and the impaction was due to too big of a crickets and not enough calcium:( Is there anything like sand that could be possible to use? If not I will go with some adhesive shelf liner! Also is it normal how he has been acting? Thanks again!:)
 

Varalidaine

Juvie Member
I am sorry to hear about your previous dragon, but it should serve as a grave lesson in using loose substrates. It's highly recommended to use a solid substrate such as newspaper, paper towel, fleece, tile, or non-adhesive shelf liner/linoleum. I prefer tile as it's the most economically and environmentally friendly option, plus it's easy to sanitize and will last years. You really don't want to use loose substrates as they are not easy to sanitize. It's like making a cat live in a litter box. Dust from feces can cling to the substrate and that dust can carry parasite eggs, which can re-infect your dragon. You'll want something easy to wipe down or wash.

As for lighting, I didn't see you mention a UVB light anywhere, which you will need. No matter how much calcium he is fed, if he doesn't have a source of UVB, he won't be able to absorb it. His limb weakness could be due to Metabolic Bone Disease from lack of UVB, and that would need immediate remedy and treatment if that's the case.

As for basking temperatures, you'll need either a thermometer with a probe or an infrared temperature gun to take the temperature of the surface/the actual item he sits on under his lamp. Stick-on dials or stick on digital ones can only measure air temperature, and if your air temperature is 105, then his basking site likely exceeds 120, which is much too hot for them. But again, a little more info is needed for us to help :)

And do make sure to provide a consistent day and night cycle. Most people use timers because you don't want to turn his lights on at 10am and off at 11pm one day then the next day on at 7am and off at 9pm. You'll want to pick a schedule that fits yours, so maybe on at 7am, off at 7pm. Both UVB and heat lamp should be on during that time and no lighting at night.

Pictures of your dragon and set up will definitely help, and let us know about your temperatures, how you're taking temperatures, and what kind of lighting you use.

And a little side thing, whenever you feed him, make sure to feed at least 2 hours before lights out. You don't want to feed him and then turn the light off because he won't be able to digest his food and that can lead to problems.

We aren't able to see the photo's, it doesn't appear they were uploaded properly.
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
Varalidaine":2vyascii said:
I am sorry to hear about your previous dragon, but it should serve as a grave lesson in using loose substrates. It's highly recommended to use a solid substrate such as newspaper, paper towel, fleece, tile, or non-adhesive shelf liner/linoleum. I prefer tile as it's the most economically and environmentally friendly option, plus it's easy to sanitize and will last years. You really don't want to use loose substrates as they are not easy to sanitize. It's like making a cat live in a litter box. Dust from feces can cling to the substrate and that dust can carry parasite eggs, which can re-infect your dragon. You'll want something easy to wipe down or wash.

As for lighting, I didn't see you mention a UVB light anywhere, which you will need. No matter how much calcium he is fed, if he doesn't have a source of UVB, he won't be able to absorb it. His limb weakness could be due to Metabolic Bone Disease from lack of UVB, and that would need immediate remedy and treatment if that's the case.

As for basking temperatures, you'll need either a thermometer with a probe or an infrared temperature gun to take the temperature of the surface/the actual item he sits on under his lamp. Stick-on dials or stick on digital ones can only measure air temperature, and if your air temperature is 105, then his basking site likely exceeds 120, which is much too hot for them. But again, a little more info is needed for us to help :)

And do make sure to provide a consistent day and night cycle. Most people use timers because you don't want to turn his lights on at 10am and off at 11pm one day then the next day on at 7am and off at 9pm. You'll want to pick a schedule that fits yours, so maybe on at 7am, off at 7pm. Both UVB and heat lamp should be on during that time and no lighting at night.

Pictures of your dragon and set up will definitely help, and let us know about your temperatures, how you're taking temperatures, and what kind of lighting you use.

And a little side thing, whenever you feed him, make sure to feed at least 2 hours before lights out. You don't want to feed him and then turn the light off because he won't be able to digest his food and that can lead to problems.

We aren't able to see the photo's, it doesn't appear they were uploaded properly.

Thank you for the response! The impaction was from too big of cricket:( I am going to go with shelf liner and I will get a temp gun! what exactly is the difference between a uvb light and a basking light? I tried to fix my pics but only one came up:( I posted them to my user uploads but im not sure if you can see those? as for how he has been acting is that normal? Thanks!:)
 

Gormagon

Extreme Poster
There are 2 different types of light they need in their basking area.
1. First and foremost is "UVB", This light let's them absorb the calcium and other nutrients from their food, it is a must!!! Its more like a tanning bed type of light. The long tube ones are best like the Reptisun 10.0 t5HO or an Arcadia 12%D3. You can find these online....shop around!
2. A basking light "UVA" is very important as well, it provides heat and allows them to see in color. White light is best. Colored lights are not a proper light, it messes with how the visualize things.
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
Gormagon":2yremjmj said:
There are 2 different types of light they need in their basking area.
1. First and foremost is "UVB", This light let's them absorb the calcium and other nutrients from their food, it is a must!!! Its more like a tanning bed type of light. The long tube ones are best like the Reptisun 10.0 t5HO or an Arcadia 12%D3. You can find these online....shop around!
2. A basking light "UVA" is very important as well, it provides heat and allows them to see in color. White light is best. Colored lights are not a proper light, it messes with how the visualize things.

Thanks! I will be sure to pick those up tomorrow! Hopefully I can find one at a local store around my house tomorrow! Will Toad be alright after all these months without a proper UVB light? Is there anything I can do to make up the time lost?
 

Varalidaine

Juvie Member
Take him outside every day for a few hours in the sun until you get a UVB light. I use this light: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/24-ho-t5-double-bulb-fixture-with-arcadia-12-and-6-5k-day-light-bulbs-included/
But many people use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26053-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B00AQU8F2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486536772&sr=8-3&keywords=reptisun

His behavior is likely due to calcium deficiency. The weakness in his limbs and lack of UVB for months sounds like the beginning of Metabolic Bone Disease. He'll need a good light and plenty of calcium. If it doesn't improve on it's own, you'll need calcium injections done by a vet. But hopefully it has not progressed too far.

For your basking light (which is currently the red one you're using) you'll want a white/clear one. Red light does provide enough UVA and will distort their color perception. Your light is also FAR too close. If that stick on thermometer says 105, that piece of rock is likely 120+. And you never want to mount a light inside an enclosure where he can get that close. It is very likely he could burn himself. Light should always be outside the tank or mounted high enough where the dragon can not get close enough to get burned.

Please read over these guides. They will be immensely helpful.
Care Guide: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/
What To Buy: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/newbies-guide-what-to-buy/
The MOST important one for you, explains lighting and mounting the lights: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/newbies-guide-lighting-help/
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
Varalidaine said:
Take him outside every day for a few hours in the sun until you get a UVB light. I use this light: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com/24-ho-t5-double-bulb-fixture-with-arcadia-12-and-6-5k-day-light-bulbs-included/
But many people use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26053-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B00AQU8F2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486536772&sr=8-3&keywords=reptisun

His behavior is likely due to calcium deficiency. The weakness in his limbs and lack of UVB for months sounds like the beginning of Metabolic Bone Disease. He'll need a good light and plenty of calcium. If it doesn't improve on it's own, you'll need calcium injections done by a vet. But hopefully it has not progressed too far.

For your basking light (which is currently the red one you're using) you'll want a white/clear one. Red light does provide enough UVA and will distort their color perception. Your light is also FAR too close. If that stick on thermometer says 105, that piece of rock is likely 120+. And you never want to mount a light inside an enclosure where he can get that close. It is very likely he could burn himself. Light should always be outside the tank or mounted high enough where the dragon can not get close enough to get burned.

Please read over these guides. They will be immensely helpful.
Care Guide: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/
What To Buy: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/newbies-guide-what-to-buy/
The MOST important one for you, explains lighting and mounting the lights: https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/newbies-guide-lighting-help/[/quote

Alright awesome i will pick one up like that tomorrow! Does it have to be a tube light? Just curious but will a powerful enough cfl lightbulb do the job? I am in MN and its 10 F tomorrow for a high otherwise he would be outside running around! I will fix the light position and get another fixture and temp reader! Thanks again!
 

Varalidaine

Juvie Member
The tube lights are best. Coil/compact bulbs, because of the way they are manufactured, can produce shorter and irregular wavelengths of light, which can cause permanent eye damage over time. They also only put the UVB on one spot. Tube lights have longer wavelengths which help protect the eyes and cover a larger span of the tank.

Be sure to post updated pictures of the setup once you get everything rearranged and get proper temps, etc :)
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
Varalidaine":rhe80f47 said:
The tube lights are best. Coil/compact bulbs, because of the way they are manufactured, can produce shorter and irregular wavelengths of light, which can cause permanent eye damage over time. They also only put the UVB on one spot. Tube lights have longer wavelengths which help protect the eyes and cover a larger span of the tank.

Be sure to post updated pictures of the setup once you get everything rearranged and get proper temps, etc :)

Thanks! I will post pics tomorrow, i got the proper lighting now i just need to get the right temps and what not! Im working on a custom rock wall so hopefully it turns out nice!
 

Varalidaine

Juvie Member
OhSoler":3s8drl4y said:
Thanks! I will post pics tomorrow, i got the proper lighting now i just need to get the right temps and what not! Im working on a custom rock wall so hopefully it turns out nice!

Great! Will be excited to see, and with the UVB he should perk up a lot. Just dust every insect you feed him with calcium. If he doesn't show improvement in his limbs after 1-2 weeks, I would probably grab some of this: http://www.store.repashy.com/rescuecal-3-oz-jar.html

It's calcium supplement formulated specifically for animals with low blood calcium levels due to lack of vitamin D (lack of UVB). It's the only calcium supplement with added Electrolytes, which he may need to help recover from the too hot temperatures, and added Magnesium.
 

OhSoler

Member
Original Poster
Varalidaine":2382ws5c said:
Wanted to check in on the little one! How is everything?

Hes doing great!! Espically with the proper lighting and the new remodeled cage! I will get pics up tonight when i get off work! Thanks for all of your help!! It really helped!!
 
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