Getting Set Up!

We are in the process of prepping for our new Beardie (to be named I.J.) and so excited!! We have the terrarium set up, and turned the lights on to make sure everything worked and the temp and humidity were at good levels.

I'm using an Acurite digital thermometer/humidity monitor (after reading the gauges are usually way off), and it's registering low in the basking spot. We are at 77*F on the cool side with anywhere from 35 - 37 humidity, and in the basking spot we are only at 97 -99*F and 20 - 23 humidity. The people at the pet store (who claimed to have beardies of their own) said the humidity can go up to 40 and be fine, and suggested not getting a higher watt bulb for fear it would heat the cool side too much. The top of the basking spot is 9" from the top screen, and we're using a ReptiSun 10.0 Compact UVB Fluorescent Bulb, and Repti Basking Spot Lamp (100W).

We tried not having the red light on last night, as I read on here that it's not ideal for sleep patterns, but the humidity went up to 70+ ... so I have a room dehumidifier that should be here tomorrow.

Any suggestions to get his space in a better spot before we bring him/her home?

UVB bulb needs to be replaced along with the temperature gauges. At least the ones that are stick on's.

I am unsure of how accurate and good that acurite digital thermometer is however I doubt its getting the ACTUAL basking SURFACE temperature.
May work good for the ambient temperatures and humidity but probably not the basking temperature.
Someone that may be more knowledgeable about that specific thermometer could probably correct anything I said if I am wrong.

Ideally you want a Temp gun or a digital temperature gauge with a probe, the temp gun is probably going to be a bit more accurate.

The coil/compacts provide little to no UVB for a bearded dragon or any reptile. They are incredibly weak and the only compact/coil bulb that even works is a Exo Terra 25 watt 200UVB coil bulb and that only works if the basking spot is at least 4-6 inches away from the bulb.

Ideally for UVB you want a long tube light that covers a little over half of the enclosure or the whole enclosure.
There are two really trustful brands out there currently, that being Reptisun and Arcadia. Arcadia makes higher percentages of UVB bulbs so that means more UVB which is good as screen blocks out quite a bit of UVB, about 40-50%.

For Reptisun you'll want a T5 HO 10.0 34" bulb.
For Arcadia you can go with a Arcadia D3+ T5 HO 12% 34" bulb or a Arcadia D3+ T5 HO 14% bulb 34".
Make sure you get a fitting reflective fixture for the tube lights.

Also the reason why I say 34 inches rather than 22 inches is because you'll need to upgrade eventually and this will save you money from having to buy a new fixture as their adult homes have to be 75 gallons or a 4x2x2 enclosure at the very least.

40 gallons just does not work for an adult bearded dragon, currently my 21 inch an almost 2 year old male is in a 50 gallon (36x18x18) and he's literally almost half the size of it and can not run around and exercise properly in such a small enclosure. Even my adult female who is the same age and 18 inches can barely even run around in a 50 gallon.

Beardies are incredibly active when given enough space, I regularly see my juvenile run around in her 75 gallon, checking out everything on a daily basis and hunting for her food.
My adult female is currently filled with hormones and acting like a crazy two year old pumped up with sugar but even before this she was pretty active in her 75 gallon as well, but now she's overly active and its annoying but I can't do much currently for her.
I'm honestly certain she will kill herself or hurt herself because of how active she is right now, almost just fell on her back trying to climb the screen top...

The basking temperatures are a bit low, should be 100-110, preferably 105.
Cool side is good, 70-85 is usually good, no lower no higher than that.
Make sure that the night time temps dont drop below 65 and if they do invest in a CHE (ceramic heat emitter).
Warm side temps should be 88-95.
Warm side temps are basically the area around the direct basking spot.

As for humidity just make sure it stays on average within 30-40%, 20% at its lowest, and 50-60% at the highest.

That is correct the red bulbs or any colored bulbs will disturb their sleep and eventually could cause some eye damage.
They see in color just like we do, and I honestly dont get why there isn't some sort of regulation for reptile products yet.
If there was we probably wouldn't have calci-sand, ground walnut shells, colored sand, trashy UVB bulbs, heat rocks, and those red lights would probably not say "infrared" because they aren't even true infrared lights as most reptiles can see them, and we can see the light as well when we can't even see infrared ourselves.

CONGRTAZ on the new beardie. There is a huge debate on temperature I’ve heard anything from 95-120 degrees so you should be totally fine. If you are worried you could move the basking spot closer to the heat source. I would put some more decorations in the tank to allow IJ the climb around and explore more. 40 gallons should be considered the minimum but it all depends on the beardie. When mine is is his tank he does absolutely nothing and I take him out a lot so for me 40 gallons is fine but I’m sure there are very active beardies. I’d say give it a couple months and then decide.

Post by QuinnF » Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:50 pm

CONGRTAZ on the new beardie. There is a huge debate on temperature I’ve heard anything from 95-120 degrees so you should be totally fine. If you are worried you could move the basking spot closer to the heat source. I would put some more decorations in the tank to allow IJ the climb around and explore more. 40 gallons should be considered the minimum but it all depends on the beardie. When mine is is his tank he does absolutely nothing and I take him out a lot so for me 40 gallons is fine but I’m sure there are very active beardies. I’d say give it a couple months and then decide.

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Well beardies may not be active in their small little tank because they have literally nothing to do once grown to the point where there isn't much room for running around.

When my juvenile was in a smaller tank all she did was bask and only moved around for food. Now in a 75 gallon she uses every inch of her enclosure, she basks, hunts, lays on her hammock when she wants to relax a bit and climbs/runs around for exercise.
My adult female was always a very active beardie and would repeatedly run around in a circle, glass surf, and claw at the doors trying to actually do what she was supposed to do and that was being active. Beardies are actually very active lizards when given the chance, in the wild you dont see them just basking 24/7 do you? No, they are running around, exploring, hunting, and then basking when needing to.
Of course this isn't the wild and they are captive bred but it's a shame that you can put a active lizard that can grow up to 24 inches long in such a small enclosure. I understand if it's money reasons but these guys live 15-20 years so eventually you can give them a proper home down the line.

Smaller tanks than 75 gallons or 4x2x2 enclosure just dont provide the space needed to actually have them live healthy, happy lives. Yes they can live in a smaller enclosure, but are they thriving? Probably not.
Also 40 gallons is the BARE BONE minimum, note the word BARE BONE.
Meaning it's an extremely small tank size, and is not the actual preferred minimum but just below that, 75+ gallons is the true preferred minimum because of these lizards needs.

120 is WAY too hot, you'll most likely cause death from overheating and dehydration with those temps.
They aren't tegus or monitors, they dont need it that hot to be active, digest their food properly or anything like a tegu/monitor does.
And below 100 is too cold for proper digestion for really any sun loving basking species.