Bad Breeder? Supplements? Baby food? Help, please.

[CBdragons]

I have had my dragons (3) for a little over a week now. They have refused any and all live food. I can occasionally hand-feed them their mustard greens but otherwise they won't eat. Last night I went and got two jars of organic sweet potato & chicken baby food. (They didn't have JUST chicken and this was the only one without carrots and apples) I also got a couple medicine droppers to feed with. I just offered all three the baby food and they all ate about a dropper full. I think the breeder I got them from (it was a trade for my two baby Nile monitors that I could no longer keep after finding out I am with child) is just a basement breeder and doesn't really know what he's doing. They hatched on June 3rd, 2013. I bathe them every day (occasionally every other day) and add shed-ease once a week. They all still have fat reserves but I'm getting concerned. Should I add some calcium powder and repti-boost to the baby food to get them more of the nutrients they need? How long can they live off the baby food? They are active and all just won't eat. Advice is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[munchkins9802]

good morning, not sure how to get my draft back> I just posted a long post to you.

First off, are all 3 babies housed together? If so that is probably the main reason for them not heating, beardies are actually solitary animals.

Now onto some other questions that we typically ask:
How long have you had them?
How old are they?
How long are they (tip of nose to tip of tail?)
Do you have a UVB light AS WELL as a Bright white basking light. What type of UVB light is on/in the cage (coil, compact, tube, etc)
What are you trying to feed the babies (mealworms--a no no for beardies as they cause impaction in them, crickets, etc)
What is the substrate on the bottom of the cage (sand, walnuts, reptile carpet, tile, non adhesive shelf paper??) --you do not WANT any LOOSE substrate (sand/walnuts, etc) , again for the risk of impaction and bacterial infections.
What are the temperatures in the cage. Basking surface spot? Warm/hot side of cage? Cool side of Cage?
How are the temps being taken (strip, dial, digital, probe, heat gun?)
Do you bathe them a few times a week?
Have they had a fecal test done for parasites yet?

 

[CBdragons]

The answers to most of these are in my post. Gotta love lazy America.
How long have you had them? A little over a week
How old are they? Hatched June 3rd
How long are they (tip of nose to tip of tail?) varies, came to me with tail nips
Do you have a UVB light AS WELL as a Bright white basking light. What type of UVB light is on/in the cage (coil, compact, tube, etc) yes and reptisun 10.0
What are you trying to feed the babies (mealworms--a no no for beardies as they cause impaction in them, crickets, etc) crickets, pheonix worms, wax worms
What is the substrate on the bottom of the cage (sand, walnuts, reptile carpet, tile, non adhesive shelf paper??) --you do not WANT any LOOSE substrate (sand/walnuts, etc) , again for the risk of impaction and bacterial infections. Paper towel
What are the temperatures in the cage. Basking surface spot? Warm/hot side of cage? Cool side of Cage? 107 bask 87 warm 75 cool
How are the temps being taken (strip, dial, digital, probe, heat gun?) laser
Do you bathe them a few times a week? Once a day
Have they had a fecal test done for parasites yet? No

 

[Claudiusx]

Only like 2 or 3 of the 11 questions were in your first post.

God some people, come asking for help then go off on a rant about how lazy the people trying to help them are.

Good luck finding help with that attitude. Maybe you are better off just using the search feature of this site, you won't have to deal with us less than worthy helpers.

-Brandon

 

[CBdragons]

It makes it feel like the person didn't even care to read and just copy+pasted a response. This site is supposed to be friendly and personable.

 

[Mistyck]

The answers to most of these are in my post. Gotta love lazy America

With that attitude, you'd be lucky to get responses. They just want to get clarification on things. Same could be said that you're lazy since you didn't go research things before posting this thread as well. :roll:

Now to answer your long run-on post...

If you have all 3 housed together, you need to separate them. They do not need to, nor should they, be housed together. They each need their own tank, with their own UVB, and heat.

They sound like they're still getting used to their new surroundings, as you've only had them a week. If you hand-feed them now, they will expect it when they're older, cut the greens up in a bowl and leave the bowl in the tank. What size crickets are you feeding them? The crickets should be no bigger than the space between their eyes. The bigger the cricket, the less likely they are to eat any of them. Yes you should be giving them calcium powder, 5x a week and a multi-vitamin 2x a week.

Is your Reptisun a compact bulb or a florescent bulb? That's important, if it's a compact, then it's crap and needs to be replaced with the florescent. How far away is the UVB from them?

 

[munchkins9802]

I am sorry if you felt I was not reading your post. As stated above, only a FEW of the questions were listed in your Original post. And if I didn't ask, someone would have posted the identical questions. Again sorry to offend you, was not my original intent, was actually trying to help.
Being that I don't even have those questions in a file, I did not copy and paste. Yes I did ask some questions that were mentioned , but in the past when we have clarified to make sure the answers are consistent (or inconsistent) then we are able to help you out better.
And the other person's post is correct, the reptisun 10.0 is it tube, coil , or compact (yes it DOES make a difference).
And also they came with tail nips from being housed together as well.
In addition to answer one of your original questions, there food should be dusted with calcium 5x a week and a vitamin such as repti-vite 2x a week.
Being you have only had them 1 week, it could easily be re-location stress, but again, I want to stress that if all 3 are in the same cage, they need to be separated as soon as possible