Young Bearded Dragon gets scared during feeding

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I have a young bearded dragon named Jasper that is my first bearded dragon. I have only had them for a week and I am concerned that they dislike me too much to eat properly. Currently I have been feeding them a mix of crickets and mealworms while I wait for a shipment of dubia roaches. Their cage temperature is 90+ degrees F usually and moisture is generally 30-50%.

My problem is that sometimes it seems he gets scared or becomes disinterested while I'm feeding him. I was told young beardeds eat a lot. But yesterday he only ate seven mealworms and the day before that he had like 12 crickets. I don't think he's sick or impacted, he's pooping every day and it looks healthy. I'm just worried I might stress him out to the point where he doesn't want to eat or ends up hating me
 

Claudiusx

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Staff member
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It's only been a week. He hasn't gotten a good chance to know you or his new environment. Give him some time to settle in and he will come around for you.
It's a good sign that hes even eating. Sometimes new dragons go through relocation stress for weeks and wont even hardly eat at all for the first week!

So dont worry about it. :) as long as your husbandry is up to par, everything will be fine.

-Brandon
 

Viewtifulrexx

Member
Original Poster
TYVM! The assistant at the shop said they'd be eating a lot and that the stress would only be a few days. Thank you for clarifying!
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
With relocation stress, sometimes there is none, sometimes it lasts a few days, and sometimes it can last up to a few weeks. But as he gets used to you, his appetite should start increasing more and more.

If it doesn't, just let us know and we can try to help out more. :D

-Brandon
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 4 and Blaze is 2
Them? Their? How many do you have in the tank? Are they housed together?
Karrie
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
How old is the dragon ?

How big is "he" ?
full length or nose to bum length , weight of "his" full body (everything including "his" tail .

Photos of the dragon next to a ruler will help.

Photos of the tank and how you have it set up.

Brands of lights (UV and basking globe).

Wattage of UV light .
Type of UV light ( curly compact ? fat (1" diameter) T8 tube ? skinny (5/8" diameter) T5HO tube, MVB other ?
Wattage ?
UVB rating ?
distance from the basking spot ?
In a reflector dome ? reflector hood ?
ontop or under the mesh lid ?
distance from the basking spot ?
distance from the substrate on the floor of the tank ?

Basking globe type and color ?

Basking spot temperature ?
warm zone temperature ?
cool zone temperature ?

Feeding schedule (when during the day) and diet ? (other than what's been stated)

Substrate used ?

Any other animals in the house ?

Onto the nitty-gritty :
Mealworms - don't toss them out, but set them aside , it's OK to use maybe 2 or 3 occasionally as bribes and bonding treats. BUT I wouldn't give more than a few at a time even to an adult bearded dragon.
The main issues with these lavae are their fat content and hard to digest exoskeleton.

The crickets are fine so long as they are gutloaded, dusted (calcium powder) and suitably sized for your dragon , but don't dump a tub full of crickets into the dragon's tank or feeding tub (if you are trying to feed out of the tank) , the result will be crickets hopping and scurrying about in all directions and an overwhelmed dragon.
Drop 2 or 3 crickets into the tank where the dragon can see them, let the dragon catch and eat them, repeat until the dragon looses interest.
 

Viewtifulrexx

Member
Original Poster
Oh this is all a bit overwhelming haha but I'll try my best to describe it.

J2URS51.png


The flakes in his cage are oatmeal bits the mealworms are stored in.

I am awake all night because of my work schedule. During the day I turn the lights off and cover the front and sides of his cage to prevent light from getting in. He seems to be active at my hours.

I use a reptile carpet as substrate. The temperature on the hot end of his cage is 90+F but I only have the one temperature reader. I'm currently renting a room so there is a cat here but the cat doesn't go up to the glass or anything. I work from home so I'm usually in the same room as him all day.

I feed him when I first wake up after he poops and he usually accepts a few insects. I've also been trying to introduce him to small bits of bell peppers and he seems to eat them occasionally. For the crickets, I have been doing that. I feed him a couple at a time and let him eat until he gets tired of it.

His UVB light is a ReptiSun® 10.0 Compact Fluorescent

His basking light is a 100W Repti Basking Spot® Lamp
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 4 and Blaze is 2
Your having him on your schedule is fine -- but the UVB well thats an issue --- here is some info on UVB's Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 8-10 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- I would get this changed out ASAP or you are going to have health issues - compacts do not prevent MBD--- here is a website for nutrtion - http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html--- salad should be offered daily and bugs should be dusted 5 x per week w/ calcium D3 and vitamins 2 x per week ---- you need to get a Infrared heat gun from Walmart Lowes or Home Depot for around $10 -- that will give you the most accurate basking temps- stick ons are inaccurate--- you need a digital probe on the cool side of the tank w/ temps in the 80's during the day and not below 65 at nite --- relocation stress is common but that UVB is crucial in their over all health behavior and digestion
Karrie
 
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